Problem with Rebuilt PC

[Mike]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

Hello Everyone. I'm a first-time poster here. I built my second PC
from scratch several years ago and it worked like a champ. Still is,
AFAIK.

So, I confidently set about re-plumbing my old Gateway G6-266. I have
an Intel D875PBZ main board, 3.0Ghz CPU, 1G RAM, misc drives, PCPower
Silencer ATX power supply, and an ATI All-In-Wonder VE video board.

The problem is that when I turn on the power supply, the CPU fan spins
up and the available power light comes on on the main board. Nothing
happens after that. I have tested the power and reset switches and am
confident that they work. I tried shorting the two startup pins
together with a test lead from my DMM. Then I bought a power supply
tester; it shows that the PS is working, except for the -5V line. The
drives and video card are from other machines, and were working when
they were pulled. The mainboard, CPU, and RAM are all new.

I've pulled and re-seated everything. I made sure that the board was
not shorting to the frame, and that the insulated washers are in place.
I don't think the CPU fan should come on, but it does.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

Mike wrote:
> Hello Everyone. I'm a first-time poster here. I built my second PC
> from scratch several years ago and it worked like a champ. Still is,
> AFAIK.
>
> So, I confidently set about re-plumbing my old Gateway G6-266. I
have
> an Intel D875PBZ main board, 3.0Ghz CPU, 1G RAM, misc drives, PCPower
> Silencer ATX power supply, and an ATI All-In-Wonder VE video board.
>
> The problem is that when I turn on the power supply, the CPU fan
spins
> up and the available power light comes on on the main board. Nothing
> happens after that. I have tested the power and reset switches and
am
> confident that they work. I tried shorting the two startup pins
> together with a test lead from my DMM. Then I bought a power supply
> tester; it shows that the PS is working, except for the -5V line.
The
> drives and video card are from other machines, and were working when
> they were pulled. The mainboard, CPU, and RAM are all new.
>
> I've pulled and re-seated everything. I made sure that the board was
> not shorting to the frame, and that the insulated washers are in
place.
> I don't think the CPU fan should come on, but it does.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions?

I would suspect either the CPU, memory, or motherboard. The first
thing I would do is check that they're all seated correctly, but you
already have, so I'd try to look for a faulty one :-(

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

Mike wrote:
> I built my second PC from scratch several years ago and
> it worked like a champ. Still is, AFAIK.
>
> So, I confidently set about re-plumbing my old Gateway
> G6-266. I have an Intel D875PBZ main board, 3.0Ghz CPU,
> 1G RAM, misc drives, PCPower Silencer ATX power supply,
> and an ATI All-In-Wonder VE video board.
>
> The problem is that when I turn on the power supply,
> the CPU fan spins up and the available power light comes
> on on the main board. Nothing happens after that. I
> have tested the power and reset switches and am confident
> that they work. I tried shorting the two startup pins
> together with a test lead from my DMM. Then I bought a
> power supply tester; it shows that the PS is working,
> except for the -5V line. The drives and video card are
> from other machines, and were working when they were
> pulled. The mainboard, CPU, and RAM are all new.
>
> I've pulled and re-seated everything. I made sure that
> the board was not shorting to the frame, and that the
> insulated washers are in place.
> I don't think the CPU fan should come on, but it does.

Why did you buy a power supply tester when you already had a
multimeter? A meter plus a bent paperclip and possibly 1-2 10W
resistors work better than a tester and won't wrongly indicate that a
supply is OK even when one of its voltage is wrong by more than 10%.

Despite your supply being the PC Power & Cooling brand, I suggest you
try unplugging as many accessories as possible, especially disk drives,
and if that makes a difference you need a supply with a higher 12V amp
capacity.

 

[Mike]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

Thank you folks for your comments.

Peter, I don't really have another machine I can test this CPU or
memory with. I purchased them from The Chip Merchant in San Diego. Do
vendors like this do returns? Also, it seems...I
dunno...counter-intuitive that the processor could be the culprit. I
was thinking that the MoBo was the more likely candidate.

And to Do_Not_Spam...I didn't know that! How do you use the paperclip
to determine fault/nofault? My most recent tests have been with just
the Mobo, and floppy connected to the power supply, and with only the
video card in the PCI bus. When I power up, there is still no joy in
Mudville.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Thanks All,
Mike

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

Mike wrote:
> Thank you folks for your comments.
>
> How do you use the paperclip to determine fault/nofault?
> My most recent tests have been with just the Mobo, and
> floppy connected to the power supply, and with only the
> video card in the PCI bus. When I power up, there is
> still no joy in Mudville.

The Power_On line is found on pin 14 (green wire) and is activated by
grounding it. Use the paperclip to connect it to any black wire
(adjacent pin 13 or 15 will do), which should make the supply turn on
unless it's designed to require a load on its +5V output. That load
can be provided by a motherboard, disk drive, or a resistor rated for
anywhere from 2-20 ohms. The resistor should be connected between red
)(+5V) and black wires (any will do) and must be able to withstand at
least twice the power flowing through it, meaning if it's 2 ohms it
should be rated for at least 20 watts (10W for 5 ohms, 5W for 10 ohms,
2W for 20 ohms). Supply voltages are often inaccurate if their minimum
load ratings aren't met.