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I am 15 and need help creating a PC 1300-

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December 21, 2005 12:16:06 AM

This is a first time experience in building my own PC. I am tryin to stay under 1300, but create a PC that is great for gaming. I have a couple of questions that I will list at the top:


1. Is the motherboard compatible with the power supply(correct amount of pins)
2.Will the power supply connect to everything(Will it have a 6-Pin PCI-E connector?)
3.Will all the hardware be compatible with the motherboard?
4.Is there any problems with the products or name brand?
5.Should i get a dual core x2 3800 or stick to the 4000?
6.Do I need 2 gigs of ram or just 1 gig?
7.Should i buy the GTX or GT
**8. I have another old computer that I am getting rid of,it has Windows XP,but will i be able to load the windows frpm the old computer to my new one.(I have the 2003 disk of XP)I will not be using the old one anymore,nor will anyone else.

-------------------------------------------------
***Here are my specs that I created***listed with price from

www.newegg.com
------------------------------------------------
Processor:

AMD Athlon 64 4000+ San Diego 1GHz FSB Socket 939 Processor Model ADA4000BNBOX - Retail
Model #: ADA4000BNBOX

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E1681...

*334.00*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Motherboard:

ASUS A8N5X Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail
Model #: A8N5X

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E1681...

*92.00*
----------------------------------------------------------------
Graphics:

eVGA 256-P2-N517-AX Geforce 7800GT 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card - Retail

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E1681...

*319.00*

-----------------------------------------------------------------
RAM:

CORSAIR XMS 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Unbuffered Dual Channel Kit System Memory Model TWINX1024-3200C2PT - Retail
Model #: TWINX1024-3200C2PT

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E1682...


*100.00*
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Hard Drive:

Seagate Barracuda 7200.8 ST3250823AS 250GB 7200 RPM Serial ATA150 Hard Drive - OEM
Model #: ST3250823AS

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E1682...


*103.50*
------------------------------------------------------------
Case

Sunbeam Transformer IC-TR-US-BK Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 450W Power Supply - Retail
Model #: IC-TR-US-BK

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E1681...

*90.00*
--------------------------------------------------------
Power

Antec SmartPower 2.0 SP-500 ATX12V 500W Power Supply - Retail
Model #: SP-500

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E1681...


*69.00*
-----------------------
DVD:

NEC Black IDE/ATAPI DVD Burner Model ND-3550A - OEM
Model #: ND-3550A BK OEM


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E1682...

*40.00*
------------------------------------------------------

Floppy:


SAMSUNG Black 1.44MB 3.5" Internal Floppy Drive Windows 98SE/ ME/ 2000/ XP - OEM
Model #: SFD321B/LBL1


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E1682...


*7.50*

------------------------------------------------
I would greatly appreciate your help. You can contact me at treyknighton3@hotmail.com or for x-fire footballkicker,or just reply with your appreciative thoughts.

More about : creating 1300

December 21, 2005 12:17:26 AM

The total comes to 1218.00
December 21, 2005 12:29:52 AM

4.)Looks like you're going to have two power supplies, could probably invest that same amount that you're using for the case with supply into a better case without a power supply. (not sure if that's a big deal, just seems like a little bit of money wasted, but I am a penny pincher kinda...)
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December 21, 2005 1:29:49 AM

My brother has a comp. and he only has a 300 watt.
December 21, 2005 2:17:30 AM

Quote:
My brother has a comp. and he only has a 300 watt.


How old is your brothers PC? 300W was large for a PSU a few years ago. The rig you are looking at, and for future upgrades, I would stick with the Antec PSU. I agree with 91RS on the case two. If you like the case, great, if you are not attached to it, you can probably get a slightly better case with no PSU for the same price.

If you are trying to create a great gaming rig, you should put your money in a few key places. The Motherboard, Graphics card, and RAM play the largest part in gaming performance. I would say even spend a little less on the processor to have a little more for graphics. Get the best GPU you can afford with the most memory. you look pretty good there unless you want 512. Your RAM looks good, you may want to go for 2GB if you are multitasking a lot, otherwise, 1 GB is good.

Everything else looks pretty good, good luck and welcome to the world of PC building. Post anymore questions you have.
December 21, 2005 3:03:16 AM

Dual PSU's for what? That PC probably won't even use 500 Watts. It has dual +12v rails, and the total volts on the 12v rails is 36 which is plenty.

1) The motherboard and PSU are compatible, the PSU supports both a 20, and 24 pin motherboard, it has an additional connector you slide in with the 20 pin connector for the 24 pin motherboards.
2) The PSU should be fine, if does have your PCI-E Video Card plugin
3) Everything appears to be compatible, don't own your motherboard, so hard for me to say.
4) Name brands seem fine.
5) Stay with the 4000+, each core on a 3800+ runs at the speeds of a single 2800+ or 3200+, can't remember for sure. No games will be using dual cores for quite some time, not that many people would buy the games as not everyone has a dual core. Also if you go with a dual core, your processor might be bottlenecking your videocard.
6) 1GB of RAM will do fine, many people say 2GB's of RAM is needed to run BF2 on high without lag, I'm running 1GB just fine. I still think there is the issue with 4x512MB sticks of RAM while trying to run at a 1T command rate with AMD, your forced to run at a 2T command rate.
7) I would say the GTX if you have the money, but I am an ATI fan, hehehe.
8) I think that would be illegal, but not exactly sure on that. But I wouldn't spend another $100 or so on Windows XP, with Longhorn supposed to be released sometime in 2006. As long as you have the discs for it, you can still install it. But if it's from Gateway, Dell, etc... I wouldn't recommend installing it as it those manufacturers will have extra junk on the disk that you won't need and can slow your PC down.

Everything looks good, but are you going to overclock at all? If you plan on overclocking you will probably need better RAM and a better heatsink.

Good Luck
December 21, 2005 3:11:09 AM

Thanks for the help. I am not sure if I want to spend 600 on a graphics card, but the disk I have is just plain XP. I think it would work,but I think I may have to call Microsoft.
December 21, 2005 3:13:29 AM

Go for it~!

OK i like alot of what you did. Im building 3 systems right now, 1 for gaming and 2 for media type stuff (video/photo/music) and you can get a ton of great info from the thread i had here Dell VS Build My Own-people gave alot of great info.

If this is for gaming nice call with the AMD4000 thats what im getting

For the HD-try this Maxtor its a bit cheaper and actually has a better cache, the seek time is a bit slower so im not sure which is a better tradeoff

And im diggin the RAM you chose, this is what im considering, its 33 cheaper but the CAS is 2.5 VS 2 for the one you chose. You can decide

Only other thing id say is, your PSU choice is very nice, i was looking at that as well as this Thermaltake mostly because the Therm has PFC (power fluctuation control i think it stands for) and can save you some elictric $ (which you dont pay for hehe) but it also may protect other components if the PSU does go bad (im trying to confrim this, ive only read it) Also many higly recomend the Enermax the company has an excellent reputation, but im unsure cause itsnot active PFC. All in similar price range.
Most important thing tho is, why waste money on a case that comes with a PSU ? You can find either that case w/out the PSU for cheaper or try a diff one , cause your def wastin some money on a PSU you have no plans on using Id just say make sure you go 500w or above

I dont know much about that particular mobo, the ones i was either considering or am getting are the Biostar VNF4 or im going to be getting the SLI version for the gamer who is getting the 7800. I like the SLI upgradability, but you lose firewire VS the other Biostar board (price is $1 diff so nothing)
The 7800gt is almost same, except im getting this version for $284 VS 319 for yours The diff between the 2 is yours core 470/clock 1100 mine 445/1070. Again personal preference tradeoff.

And i had same concern you did about Windows, not sure what to tell you other than, i found a place to get Win XP Pro SP2 for $99 perfeclty legal here so if your chicken like me, that should help and 99 aint as bad as it could be

Hope some of this helps~!
December 21, 2005 3:13:44 AM

Quote:
Thanks for the help. I am not sure if I want to spend 600 on a graphics card, but the disk I have is just plain XP. I think it would work,but I think I may have to call Microsoft.


If you disk is a retail and not OEM (Came with a name brand computer), then you can move it. If you have not activated XP twice already, you may not have to call microsoft. If you have, you may have to call and say you are upgrading your PC, and they will give you a new activation number.
December 21, 2005 3:24:23 AM

Most cases I have seen come with a PSU, and a lot of the times if theyre not a 'popular' brand they won't sell a case with the PSU and one without. I suppose it's cheaper for them to do it one way.
December 21, 2005 3:37:28 AM

Quote:
Most cases I have seen come with a PSU, and a lot of the times if theyre not a 'popular' brand they won't sell a case with the PSU and one without. I suppose it's cheaper for them to do it one way.


Many cases do come with PSUs included, however, you do have to be careful. There is a BIG difference in quality between high end PSUs and bargain. if you are going to use an included PSU, make sure it is quality.

For example, some off brands will quote a PSU as being a 450W PSU, but that is max power just before burnup. Look for a PSU that rates its power at a certain level and operating temperature, such as Antec. There are many quality PSU brands out there, you just have to be careful.

Power supply issues can be a pain and they are hard to troubleshoot.
December 21, 2005 3:47:15 AM

I definately wouldn't recommend using a PSU included with a case on a high end system. Just to much of a risk, they always say not to cheap out on your PSU.
December 21, 2005 3:57:36 AM

About Windows:
I have upgraded my computer several times, reformated even more and I still use the same windows key. I have to call every time (I think they know me by name). Once I did it like 3 times in one day, I had serious issues with my computer. (you think that tey would red flag me and not let me reactivate) I use an oem disc and have no problems. Just call them, and don't bother with the voice recognition for the numbers, just use the phone keypad, it takes like 10 min. less.

Don't be afraid, they havn't busted through my door yet.
December 21, 2005 3:59:26 AM

Quote:
I definately wouldn't recommend using a PSU included with a case on a high end system. Just to much of a risk, they always say not to cheap out on your PSU.


That does depend on the maker. I used the included (Antec) PSU on my (also antec) Sonata case for years on my two Athlon systems with no problems till it just wore out last week. I think the PSU that comes with the Sonata II is pretty decent too, though that case has some other issues. The Sonata series is very quiet though.

Like I said, if you can find out the specs, especially the temp you are hitting max wattage at. Up around 50C you are looking at the peak temp before blowout. Also check on the amperage on the 3.3, 5, and 12 V rails and compare those.

In your case, i would definately say go with the Antec Smart Power. They are good PSUs and I believe that model has modular cabling (very nice feature). You may not need the full 500 watts model.

On the other hand, I have a 550 W and my current system probably draws a little less power than yours.
December 21, 2005 4:05:50 AM

Quote:
About Windows:
I have upgraded my computer several times, reformated even more and I still use the same windows key. I have to call every time (I think they know me by name). Once I did it like 3 times in one day, I had serious issues with my computer. (you think that tey would red flag me and not let me reactivate) I use an oem disc and have no problems. Just call them, and don't bother with the voice recognition for the numbers, just use the phone keypad, it takes like 10 min. less.

Don't be afraid, they havn't busted through my door yet.


Chuckles is right about being able to sue that Windows key and activate it. However, if it is an OEM key, it is tied with the PC it came with. You are within your rights to buy your own OEM version if you are building your own PC. However, as soon as you move it to another machine, the license no longer applies and your copy becomes illegal.

Chuckles is also right about them not busting down you door. MS generally doesn't care about individuals violating licenses. Their concern is corporate violations and large scale piracy. It is up to you whether you want to use a strictly legal copy of Windows or not.
December 21, 2005 4:44:40 AM

Why not pick up an Antec case, that way you get the power supply you want and the case. I got one and am very happy with it.
I would say go with the AMD 4000+ if you have XP home edition because it doesn't support dual core processors anyway (need professional for X2). Plus if you are mostly gaming with it you don't need the Dual. Everything else looks pretty good.
As far as the graphics card goes, buy the most you can afford...if its the GTX great, if not... than the GT... which still runs pretty great in its own right (got one of those too and am pretty happy with it as well).

Always remember one thing with any upgrade....as soon as you buy it something better and sweeter comes along so buy the most you can afford for your budget and expect to upgrade something in the next year or two.

Hope this post helps in some way... if not just ignore it
:wink:
December 21, 2005 10:03:54 AM

What issues are you referring to on the Sonata II?
December 21, 2005 1:33:54 PM

I have the sonata I, not the two, but from the reviews I have read, the Sonata II is a bit of a step down in quality. The Door is supposed to be cheaply made, there are some internal space issues with components being close together, and the internal air duct doen't seem to fit a lot of rigs. Also, it seems strange that the Sonata II is selling for cheaper than the Sonata I on new3gg.

On the other hand, the trademarks of the Sonata Series seem to be there: near silience, good Drive mounting system, secent cooling, rubber feet fall off after about three days.

They are both good cases, if I were buying one though, I would consider buying a Sonata I and upping the powersupply (the 380W is a bit week for todays perfromance rigs).
December 21, 2005 2:17:46 PM

Got a link to the review you're referring to?
December 21, 2005 3:02:19 PM

Most of the standard review sites have given pretty good reviews, and it is still a good case. I am refering to a review I read awhile ago (sorry, i can't remember where I saw it), and to customer reviews Here.

I know it got good ratings, but I usually pay more attention to the negative reviews. when taken with a grain of salt, they usually tell you a lot about the potential issues of a product. I was considering upgrading to the Sonata II when I upgraded my PSU last week, but after reading some of the issues people were having, I decided to stay with my trusty Sonata I.[/list]
December 21, 2005 3:55:22 PM

I have the Windows XP that is real and did not come with the manufacturerer,but it is scratched up. i also have the product key which i could use. If the disk does not work could I borrow another XP disk from a friend and use it with my serial number?

I also do not plan on using SLI. I just want a good quality motherboard that i can overclock well and easily. The same thing applies for ram and the cpu;I may want to overclocke them safely.
December 21, 2005 3:56:24 PM

I also forgot to add..........

Will hte new processor coming out be socket 939, and compatible with my motherboard?
December 21, 2005 3:57:38 PM

lol again

I also have an extra 70 bucks so I may get a G7 mouse...... for COD2
December 21, 2005 4:15:35 PM

Quote:
I have the Windows XP that is real and did not come with the manufacturerer,but it is scratched up. i also have the product key which i could use. If the disk does not work could I borrow another XP disk from a friend and use it with my serial number?

I also do not plan on using SLI. I just want a good quality motherboard that i can overclock well and easily. The same thing applies for ram and the cpu;I may want to overclocke them safely.


That is a bit of a gray area, but my understanding is that you are fine. As long as you have the licensed copy, you are safe. I am not sure whether you can install from your friends copy with your serial number, but i think you can.

I am not sure what you mean about your processor question.
December 21, 2005 4:34:08 PM

It will work fine to borrow a friends XP disk (burn a clean copy while you have it) and use your product key. If you really want to make 100% certain you're legal (I'm sure you are, but I'm not a lawyer) you can order a replacement disk from Microsoft.

Next month the FX-60 and AMD X2 5000+ (2.6ghz and 1mb or 512k cache respectively) are being released. They shoudl work fine on current 939 boards.

Mike.
December 21, 2005 5:34:36 PM

Can smeone pleasehelp me or give me the instructions on how to build the PC ? i have a pretty good idea of how to put it together I think, but I do not know how to install Windows XP from scratch. Could somebody please help?
December 21, 2005 5:46:50 PM

Quote:
Can smeone pleasehelp me or give me the instructions on how to build the PC ? i have a pretty good idea of how to put it together I think, but I do not know how to install Windows XP from scratch. Could somebody please help?

To install XP from scratch you boot to the XP CD and follow instructions on the screen.

Mike.
December 21, 2005 6:13:39 PM

If you plan on overclocking a lot, you should check out a DFI motherboard. They are simply the best at overclocking, there are many, many settings in the BIOS. And for overclocking I would definately recommend getting a better heatsink and some Arctic Silver 5 thermal grease.
December 21, 2005 8:41:57 PM

Are you seriously suggesting a DFI LANPARTY for a 15yo with no OCing experience? Suggesting it to the same guy that just asked how to install Windows?! Those boards can be difficult for experinced OCers to get running smooth. :roll:

The better suggestion would be the Abit AN8 Ultra that has the uGuru OC utility.
December 22, 2005 1:01:09 AM

It really isn't to hard to do this stuff at all, I'm 15 as well, will be 16 at the end of May, when I built my latest rig I didn't know a whole lot about overclocking. But then again I knew how to format, install an operating system, plus I had already built previous PCs. But to get a DFI board up and running is just as easy as any other board. When he wants to overclock he can read some tutorials and it will be easy as pie.
December 22, 2005 3:50:28 AM

Theyre right XP install is a snap, it may seem intimidating since youve never tried it, but take our word, thatll be the easiest, slowest and most boring part.

One thing i wanted to mention, im revising which HD i recomended earlier. I justdid a debate on a few threads here about SATA2 8mb cache VS SATA 16 mb cache, cause i couldnt seem to find many reasonable priced SATA2 with 16 mb cache. Althgouh a very helpful guy suggested this Western Dig i realized that there was an error with one of the Newegg search functions (if you just ask it to list all SATA2 drives, it for some reason didnt list this one, nor a coupla others i found for some odd reason).
After seriously considering that one for awhile, i looked even further and found and just bought this Hitachi Its got better seek times & latency, and although its only 8mb cache it has better multimedia throughput than the WD.
Just figured id mention it, it may be a toss up which is better

Lastly, dont sweat it bud you can find a diff case, theres tons out there without PSUs included (i find more of them than included nowadays) I just got 2 cases from Newegg, and one from Xoxide IMHO most important things in a case thesedays is 1)how many and placement of fans (no reason to settle for less than 3 nowadays) B)reputable name (sometimes hard to tell cause theres tons of them, sometimes just a reputable store you can use their generic brand and its good) this way you improve chance it isnt built with cardboard,bubblegum and good intentions III)looks/personal pref-yeah you gotta like it,if you like classic/corporate or mod case you can find them an enjoy it. My suggestion-look around and if you see a case that suits your needs and you like and if you arent sure about the brand name-put up a post here and/or on the case forum and see if anyone knows the brand. Sometimes you just wont know everything till you get it, but you can hedge your bet for sure.
Hope this helps
!