Thermal compound Coollaboratory Liquid PRO

Anyone try this before. I have been trying a bunch of thermal compound and just ordered this click here pls

I just saw this :)"NOTE: If you manage to inject yourself or a friend with the Liquid PRO, we will be quite happy to submit a description of the event to the Darwin Awards as the Liquid PRO is highly toxic. "
now thats funny :twisted:
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  1. I saw that stuff at Frozencpu. I'm just wondering when somebody will use that on a lanparty machine, and have it ooze out onto the pcb when they pack up at the end. Highly toxic, very conductive and eats aluminum. I wish you the very best of luck experimenting with it, and I can't wait to hear about your results. I am too chicken to use that on my new build.
  2. Isn't it supposed to solidify after 48 hours or so? I would definately try it on an old box first, say a PII 300 or T-Bird.
  3. since i am testing a bunch of compounds, i just worry after 48hours how hard will it be to remove from hsf and how to clean up
  4. That thermal paste has some sort of mercury on it since it eats aluminum for mercury is the number one enemy of aluminum. That means this thing is toxic, I wouldn't touch this paste or go near it. If you do, you might as well it a lead base paint chip. It's a "liquid metal" so then it is very highly electrically conductive. Not a good idea, to be around an expensive cpu and hardwares. But I'm just amaze that they are claiming this product is 10x more effective than other high quality thermal paste. I'll stick to Artic Silver 5 for now.
  5. It may be like a CPU that's been on for 5 years, have to pry it off. Why I'd use an old setup. Keep us posted.
  6. Isn't silver an electrical conductor/ Notice the disclaimer: Not Electrically Conductive:
    Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.
    (While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)
  7. Quote:
    since i am testing a bunch of compounds, i just worry after 48hours how hard will it be to remove from hsf and how to clean up

    Altho it will aid in lowering temps this is one product I will not use.
    Good luck removing your HS after the stuff has cured without damage to the CPU.

    Give up any hopes of ever cleaning it off the HS or CPU completely as acetone and alcohol will not do the job.
  8. There's only one thing that EVERYONE has missed when it comes to this thermal paste.
    It's so unbelievably obvious and I'm surprised noone seems to realise this very fact.

    What do you think the CPU/GPU/NB heat spreader is made of?!
  9. this stuff work?

  10. update please
  11. i have this on my e8400 @ 3860 MHz, idle 37, load 55, with scythe mugen 2. vcore is 1.30.
  12. Just been doing some research and this stuff is made from a Gallium alloy. NO MERCURY! Gallium is an amazing metal that is actually liquid at around 35degrees, so it's certainly alloyed with another metal here, but there's NO WAY you'd be allowed to have any mercury in here. Gallium is actually pretty non-toxic, so safety worries are unfounded. Just 'cause it's a liquid metal doesn't nexessarily mean mercury - school chemistry just forgot to tell you about Gallium.........25g of which I am just about to buy on ebay.
  13. Been running it for 2 years now. its a bit of a pain to get on the cpu hsf ect.. use a qtip a scrub the copy it sticks then add a touch and i mean very tiny bit more this stuff flows and then over time hardens. comes off easy and if you put on a new cpu<ON #3 with my same water block i just scrape it to take sure the hard stuff is off and add just a bit to the block and cpu to make sure its again coated and poof it works. was running my 9850 OC to 3.8 at 98F (36-37C)at 100% load 24/7 for a year and a half. NEVER saw over 108 <42C>for any reason even when i lost ac in the house..
    it doesn't like to cling at first that's why the qtip and scrub.. once the stuff clings to the hsf and cpu it doesn't drip as you use SO little i got 9 builds out of it plus redoing 6 graphic cards and 12 northbridge so it go a long way if your careful. think bb size not pea size.. it comes on to lower temps quicker then as5 but here is the kicker there claims are against the white stuff not as5.. a good as5 or any high end paste is good..and all are really +-2.5 deg F most times but the Liquid Pro for me goes on and work better right away and even if there is a small void the metal makes up for it all over the spreader. so the thinner you can get it on the better..<and it when cycled over the first couple of days does fill in so well its great , The part i like is if you dont disturb the cpu/hsf then you dont ever have to reapply like some others. wife's puter on 24/7 as well and is 3years + old still running a nice 42Cat full load after all this time. do not use artic alumina or any compound like that once Liquid Pro has been used.. stick if you have to switch to as5 or some other silver based compound. this stuff BONDS to metal like copper and silver. I love it and for me its so easy to use.. bb and qtip scrub top of cpu.. then take qtip and scrub the contact area for the hfs/water block and just get it to cling with no excess.. then mate the two there should be almost no excess on the cpu when you do . you dont have to wait to use the puter and over 40 hours it drops a bit more NOT MUCH , 1 to 1.5 deg. so thats it..
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