Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

Pentium D 805 OC to 4.0+ GHz w/ ECS C19-A SLI

Last response: in Overclocking
Share
June 23, 2006 7:20:39 PM

I was one of the people that got sucked into the idea of having such a thing (Pentium D 805 @ 4.0+ GHz) when the articles came out. This would be the second time I've overclocked a CPU, so I'm still really new at this.

Has anyone gotten up to 4.0 GHz or higher using this ECS C19-A SLI motherboard? I can't manage to get my computer to post at this speed. I've gotten it up to 3.94 GHz, but when my CPU gets under stress the entire computer locks up. I have no clue what I'm doing wrong. I have researched possible solutions and have done trial-and-error attempts for a few days now, with no luck.

Mainly I ask just to see if it's even possible. But if you can spare some assistance, please do so. Thanks!
June 23, 2006 7:26:35 PM

Well, I need some more information...What memory are you using? Timings? Memory divider? FSB? Multiplier? Stock Voltage? Current Voltage? What cooler are you using? What are the temps for idle/load? Not all chips will hit 4.0Ghz, try 3.8~3.9...

~Ibrahim~
June 23, 2006 8:22:08 PM

Right now, the CPU is at 3.6GHz
Memory: 1GB Kingston (ValueRAM?) DDR2 PC4200
Memory Divider: Unsure, never touched it.
Timings:
FSB: 180 MHz
Multiplier (Locked): 20x
Stock Voltage: 1.248V (double checking)
Current Voltage: BIOS set to AUTO right now (1.248V at 3.6 GHz, 1.5125V at 3.94 GHz)
Cooler: Cooler Master AQUAGATE Mini R120 Liquid Cooling System
Temps: Idle hovers around 40-41C, not sure about load (EDIT: I can't get an accurate reading, it's jumping in values from 3C to 49C in no logical order)

Edit: Bunch of stuff.
Related resources
June 23, 2006 9:11:17 PM

Well, your memory divider is 4:3...Look at the FSB:RAM thing above the timings..That is quite a big jump in voltage for 3.94Ghz. What power supply are you using? Is it 100% stable at 3.6? Hmm..The memory seems fine, but I'm not so good with DDR2. I would go for a max of 3.8Ghz because those temps are a little high for idle, even with water cooling. Slightly bump the voltages, slightly, and inch FSB...1.5V seems too high above stock. That may be why it won't POST.

~Ibrahim~
June 23, 2006 9:35:28 PM

Power supply is 500W. I researched the CPU a bit: the maximum safe (keyword safe) voltage is 1.55v. Looking at something like the article about the Pentium D 805 at Tom's Hardware, they upped the voltage to 1.56v to allow it to run at 4.1 GHz, which is just above the safe range, but they report that it's completely stable.

My temperatures do seem to be high for liquid cooling, but I didn't spend hundreds of dollars in it. Plus, if it's anything relevant, I live in Texas and it's summer, so it's really hot in my house, this room in particular. I might check about reapplying the thermal paste, I may have put a bit too much or not spread it enough.

It is rock solid stable at 3.6 GHz. I've been doing the Prime95 Torture Test (I heard something about this only stressing one core, has this been addressed?) and playing some modern games. Again, at 3.94 GHz my system locks up when put under stress. I would think that I might need more voltage, but I'm not too sure.

Please tell me if you need more information, and thanks for your assistance and quick response. :) 
June 23, 2006 10:29:04 PM

OK, that seems like enough for the PSU. Well, it is still water cooling, which is better than most air setups...How does it perform at 3.8Ghz?

I'm a little confused about DDR2, as I've never overclocked with it...What is it, you multiply by four instead of two to get the "true" Mhz? I think so, as that seems more correct. If it is by four, you have 540, which is hardly above stock. So we can effectively rule out the memory.

Next is the chipset, which can hit 250 stable:

Quote:
Featuring a chipset without overclocking protection, ECS C19-A SLI achieved an excellent result, surpassed by only 3 MHz by DFI LanParty 925X-T2 (Intel i925X) and achieving a better overclocking than all other motherboards based on nForce4 SLI Intel Edition chipset that we reviewed. With this motherboard we could put our CPU running externally at 250 MHz (1,000 MHz QDR), making our CPU to run at 4 GHz internally, an outstanding result (25% increase on the CPU internal clock).


That was with a Pentium 4 640, which's stock clock is 3.2...I mean, I would expect a little better than 3.6 with water cooling. Try 3.8, just up the FSB. Do it slowly, not in a big jump. Maybe 5Mhz at a time, less if you'd like. The temps seem higher than expected, but they are a little more room. Make sure you test and test and then test after each increase; we wouldn't want a burnt CPU chip. I always thought on Dual-Cores, you'd always stress both cores at the same time...Why only one? I'm not trying to be mean, just wondering.

Try with the thermal paste, and check the fittings on the water cooling. It might be because of the hot ambient temp...Here in Kentucky, we hit 90 degrees most of the day...Must be toasty in Texas...

~Ibrahim~
June 23, 2006 11:37:22 PM

I don't remember at 3.8, but temperature wasn't a problem at 3.94 I believe. It's just the issues with locking up.

As for the memory, close, but I believe it's 533 MHz. (Says so on the page I bought it from)

What's interesting is that in the BIOS I can only change the bus speed (after multipliers etc., is this called "QDR"?), not the actual FSB itself, so it's hard to relate to guides that talk in increments in terms of FSB. I've been trying little steps at a time to ensure safety of my hardware. I got up to 790 (3.94 clock speed), but again it's unstable.

For the stress test, I'm only relaying information I read on other forums. That's just something I heard. I don't think that Prime95 would *intentionally* only stress one core. I understand your question on this.

Where I live, it's not unusual to have temperatues of 100+ F every day. I'm literally sweating in my room right now.

I suppose I'll look into upping the voltages at that 3.9, but I'm still completely puzzled as to why I can't break the barrier to get to 4.0.

Thanks again for your time!
June 24, 2006 4:33:43 PM

Tested a few more things. I got the RightMark CPU Clock Utility and found out that my CPU constantly throttles down from 3.8 GHz because of heat. I just ordered a new case and a new fan, so I'll see in 4-5 days to see if this solves anything.
June 24, 2006 7:32:32 PM

Ahh, I see. Well, I'm not that bright, lol, but thanks... I think the new case/fan will help alot! Whew, 100? Damn, I'd die! I've been to hot places, i.e. Pakistan, Mexico, and I think I've had my share of heat, lol. How you can live, I'll never know...Good luck, tell me how it goes!

~Ibrahim~
June 29, 2006 10:00:30 PM

I got the new case and transferred all the parts. While I did this, I found out that my fan for the radiator was blowing the WRONG WAY. When I switched out the fans (for a better one I bought) I put it on the right way. Right now I'm running the torture test at 3.6 GHz and it's not throttling down at all!

I'll have to see if this solves my problems with overclocking later, but for now everything's taking a turn for the better.
June 30, 2006 1:06:16 AM

Excellent! I'm glad you found a problem because problems can be fixed; finding the problem is usually harder. Good luck!

~Ibrahim~
July 4, 2006 7:55:36 PM

I got it up to 3.99 GHz. Even then, it takes several resets to get it to post for some reason. I simply cannot get it to post at 4.0 GHz. Just today I had a power surge which turned off my computer. I couldn't get it to post so I underclocked it to 3.94 GHz again. I'm confused as to why it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, and why I can't break that dreaded barrier.
July 5, 2006 1:01:19 AM

3.99! So close, it isn't fair! Argh!!!

Hmmm...How are the rails? They should be tightish, a few .1V increments either way.

What temps do you get with it now, at 3.94Ghz? Was there a dramatic increase of temperatures when you increased the voltages eariler? If not, I would up the voltage, the smallest increment possible, and go for 198/199/200.

I can't see why it would work sometimes and sometimes it won't. The chip can't be going bad, no where near critical temp ranges...

Sorry!

~Ibrahim~
July 5, 2006 7:39:58 PM

I had it on the maximum voltage the CPU range allowed without it being overvoltage. The temps could be better, but it doesn't throttle down so I don't know if that's an issue.
July 6, 2006 2:20:38 AM

$@^($#)&!!! Yeah, the temps are fine, I think dangerous is 70~80+C...

Hmm... How are the rails? Were they OK?

I am at a lost to what it could be: we ruled out the chipset, the memory, the CPU...Why won't it go a little further?

Is there any way we can figure out what is the temperature of the NB/SB? Maybe those could be the cause, but not very often.

~Ibrahim~
July 6, 2006 6:55:49 PM

If you can explain to me what rails are, I'll be glad to check them. :p 

Not sure about the chipset temperatures, but Everest has a motherboard temperature reading if that's of any help.

Right now it's at 36C, but I've seen it up up to 38-39C.

EDIT: On another note, I saw that every time I booted up my computer, the date and time weren't saved... I thought maybe I had put the CMOS in the reset position and left it there or something stupid like that, but it turns out that every time I push the reset button when my computer freezes/doesn't post/whatever, it resets the date and time. Joy... My computer is playing games with me.
July 6, 2006 9:08:24 PM

D'oh! lol, I'm sorry! I checked with your motherboard's manual. In the BIOS, go down to the 7th thing listed on the left-pane side, "PC Health Status". Then see where it says "+3.3V, +5V, +12V"? Write those numbers down, and go ahead and write the temperatures.

Yeah, the reset button is with the battery, which makes sure the time is the right time, so when you turn off your computer, the clock doesn't stop.

Motherboard temperature should be good.

Alternatively, you can use nTune in Windows. Link Put some load on, a little, and see if the number's change dramitically.... Thanks!

~Ibrahim~
July 7, 2006 7:44:05 PM

+3.3V - 3.3V
+5V - 5V
+12V - 11.20V

CPU Temp - Idle 50C
System Temp - 36C

It's not the reset button, it does this with the power button, but only after exiting the BIOS... It doesn't seem to post after I exit (at least without changing anything).


Sorry for the wait!
July 7, 2006 8:38:52 PM

Sorry to butt in here but that 11.2v is out of spec for ATX psu's. They should be +/- 5%.

You say the psu is 500w but what maker is it? Is it generic? How many amps on the 12v rail?
July 7, 2006 9:41:24 PM

Quote:
Spend the extra cash and get the Pentium D 930; at $173 it's one hell of a chip and can overclock much better than the Pentium D 805 thanks to the 65nm process.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E1681...


I wish I did have the extra cash to spend. I may later on though.

The PSU is generic, also cheap. That's just something else to buy (a better PSU).
July 7, 2006 11:42:20 PM

Hey, sorry for the l8 reply. Yeah, 11.2 is way too low. That is probably what is killing you, man. Sorry!

~Ibrahim~
July 8, 2006 5:33:49 PM

Quote:
Hey, sorry for the l8 reply. Yeah, 11.2 is way too low. That is probably what is killing you, man. Sorry!

~Ibrahim~


Is this fixed with a better PSU?
July 8, 2006 8:15:51 PM

Yes. There isn't enough power going to the 12V rail, which is the CPU's primary rail.

How many amps are on that particular PSU? You can tell by looking on the side of the power supply, there we be a chart similar to this:



Your PSU, however, may only include one 12V rail, which isn't nessecarily bad. We need about 20A total; as that is the about the amps needed by a 965, which is somewhat like you have now. But the 12V powers the GPU and the drives as well, so we want 25A or more. Even that is cutting it close. What GPU are you running?

I forgot to explain what a rail was, earlier. I'm not exactly sure, but they are the amount of power that is supplied to the computer. We need to get the processor around 241W or more. To calculate the amps needed to power that, on the 12V rail, we divide 241 by 12. That is about 20 Amps. But the 12V rail powers other things; we'll say your GPU takes about 60 watts. That is 60/12 = 5. So we need 5 more amps, so we want 25A+. I know this may be confusing, this link should clear it up:

Power Supply Wattage

If you look at the Enermax, it has 32A, which is more than enough for a processor, but when you add some GPUs, it gets finicky; hard drives take up watts as well, and there are other things, too, but GPU + CPU + Drives take up the beef of the power needed.

To see how much you need: What GPU are you running? How many drives? Anything else that draws power, minus motherboard, PCI cards, fans/lights? Does the Water Cooling have it's own power or does it draw from the PSU? That would be a big factor, sometimes they can take a large amount of watts.

~Ibrahim~

~Ibrahim~
July 9, 2006 4:27:32 AM

GPU - XFX NVidia 7900GT
Drives - 1 DVD Drive (don't know specs, I salvaged it)
Liquid cooling connects to the mobo, so I guess it draws from the PSU.


Also, I just had my first BSOD on this computer, "IRQL_LESS_OR_EQUAL" or something. I'm going to run memtest86 sometime soon to check my hardware. I'm getting upset that nothing's turning out right.

Considering this PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E1681...

EDIT: Second BSOD this night, this time about some .sys file. Didn't get time to read it, my computer automatically rebooted.
July 9, 2006 2:37:31 PM

Oooh, if it is drawing from the motherboard, it seems to be taking plenty of power. I place my bet on the PSU, and I raise you $20,000. (Haha, just kidding. But did anybody see that first semi-finals of the Poker Championship? Did you see that Aussie verbally killing that Russian? Holy Shite, I would've f*cking broke his face in half. Nice anger management there, Perry.) Great choice on the PSU. I found out that your particular CPU will require just shy of 200 watts at full load when at 4.0GHz....

Power Supply issues can cause BSOD's, believe me. I had BSOD's for the last five years. Didn't know for the life of me what did it, until I finally installed the motherboard utility, which had a voltage monitor. That thing was giving me warnings every few seconds about how my computer wasn't getting enough power, and I had a similar reading of 11.2 on my 12V rail. A few weeks later, the PSU died, and PSU's don't leave without leaving their mark. (Suspense is piling on) But I was lucky. (Suspense dying down, people exiting their browsers) It just left an awful smell, I still haven't completely removed it. Some people think that somehow I, being my body, can somehow recreate the smell of burnt plastic.

Antec is a great PSU maker, and it'll give that full 550W or just shy of it.

~Ibrahim~
July 10, 2006 8:18:19 PM

I ran memtest for 6 hours and 12 minutes with no errors, which was enough time to complete all of the tests several times over. There's no problems with my hardware, which makes me at ease a bit.

I updated my graphics drivers after reading an old topic on the BSODs I've been having, and everything seems to be a bit better. The other BSOD I got occurs every single time I try to run Adobe Audition. I looked at the STOP numbers and the files that were the cause when it happened, but it's different every time.

I'll try and order that power supply today (I'm glad you approve, I just randomly found that one to be honest). The only gripe I have at the moment is that if my computer doesn't post (maybe this will be fixed by the powersupply?) and I reset/turn it off, the time resets...
July 11, 2006 4:12:34 PM

Good chance that the PSU is not letting it always turn on when you press ON...

Well, does MemTest just stress the memory or the memory and CPU? I think it is a latter, because I have seen it an benchmark for Dual-Cores. The BSOD occurs everytime you open Adobe Audition? Does the BSOD flash by before you can get a good look or does it stick there?

I would try, first, to reinstall Adobe Audition. When you reset, do you mean the CMOS? Wouldn't that clear your OC?

~Ibrahim~
July 11, 2006 10:58:18 PM

No, I mean reboot by reset, sorry. It doesn't clear the OC, but it does clear the clock (which is somewhat annoying).

For Memtest86, I think it's the latter as well.

I'll try reinstalling it and see what happens. The BSODs just flash, then my computer reboots. I heard there is a way to turn this off in the control panel...

Thanks for your time!
July 11, 2006 11:51:57 PM

Your welcome! Yes, there is a way to make it stop before restarting. Start, Settings, Control Panel, System, Advanced Properties Tab, Settings under Startup and Recovery, uncheck automatically restart under System Failure. This should help us some.

It clears the clock? After each restart? I think that is a sign of the CMOS battery going bad, it is too weak to remember the time....But, then, shouldn't it also clear the OC? Hmm...Interesting.

~Ibrahim~
July 12, 2006 7:13:58 AM

I don't think it's the battery. It only happens when it doesn't post.
July 12, 2006 3:33:16 PM

Oh, when it doesn't post? I'm looking around, but I can't figure out that this is! I'm not sure the new PSU will fix it, undoubtley, but it might. It will help the OC plenty, though.

~Ibrahim~
July 13, 2006 7:02:27 PM

Quote:
I ran memtest for 6 hours and 12 minutes with no errors, which was enough time to complete all of the tests several times over. There's no problems with my hardware, which makes me at ease a bit.

I updated my graphics drivers after reading an old topic on the BSODs I've been having, and everything seems to be a bit better. The other BSOD I got occurs every single time I try to run Adobe Audition. I looked at the STOP numbers and the files that were the cause when it happened, but it's different every time.

I'll try and order that power supply today (I'm glad you approve, I just randomly found that one to be honest). The only gripe I have at the moment is that if my computer doesn't post (maybe this will be fixed by the powersupply?) and I reset/turn it off, the time resets...

I used to have major BSOD's like 5 every day I searched for 6 months for the answere to my problem and just ended up with investing big money in a 1337 system. tell me the stop nmber hex codes and I can tell you what they stand for but most likely in your case it is heat related issues b/c the nb on the c19-A SLI runs very very hot i suggest replaceing it. I signed up b/c I have issues of not bieng able to get acurate temp readings from my ECS C19-A SLI they jump wildy everywere with every program known to man. But with ntune it shows my cpu temp at 13-19C that I think is really impossible btw I have a pd 930, My BIOS says my temp is 19-20C witch is still too cold pls someone help ?
July 13, 2006 8:23:09 PM

Quote:

It is rock solid stable at 3.6 GHz. I've been doing the Prime95 Torture Test (I heard something about this only stressing one core, has this been addressed?) and playing some modern games. Again, at 3.94 GHz my system locks up when put under stress. I would think that I might need more voltage, but I'm not too sure.

Please tell me if you need more information, and thanks for your assistance and quick response. :) 


Prime95 runs on just one core at a time. You need to launch two instances of the program to test both cores simultaneously. This is done by creating shortcuts to the .exe file and modifying them with a switch (sorry - I can't remember how - I looked it up using Google). Running two instances reveals an unstable overclock pretty quickly and heats up the CPU to its true fully loaded temperature. If your overclock causes instability, one of the instances of Prime95 will crash and the other one will keep running. That's why running just one instance of the program gives misleading results.

If I were in your position, I would start over again. Reseat all of your components (CPU and HSF included), clear your CMOS and load BIOS defaults. Test your system at stock speeds. When you're satisfied that it's rock solid, start overclocking gradually. You're almost certainly going to have to use a memory divider when overclocked. Look in the BIOS for the speed that most closely matches the native speed of your RAM. In my case, I chose a speed lower than what my memory was rated for, but used tighter timings to offset the lower speed. My machine feels more responsive as a result of the lower latency versus having a hundred megs/s extra bandwidth. Run two instances of Prime95 for at least 30 minutes each to test stability.

Good luck!
July 13, 2006 10:28:43 PM

I just installed a temp probe and now that I am satified that the readings are acurate I am now aware that MY AIR cooling hs/f is more 1337 than watercooling here are temps.
Ambient 23*C
CPU 18.4*C idle
CPU 21*C w/load of 2x prime95 torture tests for 30 min.
Pentium D 930 3.0 @ 3.6ghz
July 13, 2006 10:36:22 PM

I agree with both posters. It might do well to start over, but I know it must be hard to start again when you're so far, but it might be the best way...19-20C? Wow, I'd love to have temps like that. Two probable events have occured: 1) You have some amazing cooling 2) The sensor isn't working correctly. The BIOS is a simple, yet powerful program. It goes directly to the sensor, no annoying OS to screw it up. Have you tried updating the BIOS? What cooling are you using?

This is a great, yet simple, thread that will help you with stressing BOTH cores with Prime95:

Prime95 on Dual-Cores

SilenX and Zalman both have Northbridge coolers, if need be.

~Ibrahim~
July 13, 2006 10:41:43 PM

What air cooler are you using? Why the he!! isn't everyone else using it? What air cooler is getting you 21C on load with an OC'ed P4 Dual-Core? Please tell me...I'd like to buy some stock.

lol, jk, but really? What cooler is it? That reading seems inaccurate; unless it is some amazing cooler. I don't mean to be mean, but how can you get so low temps with some air-cooling? Those temps are even beyond water cooling. I say that sensor is messing with you...If both the BIOS and a GUI utility are giving you those temps with air, then it has to be the sensor....

I could eat my words if this is really an amazing cooler, though. I doubt it, though. I don't mean to be rude, just skeptical.

~Ibrahim~
July 13, 2006 11:51:22 PM

Quote:
I agree with both posters. It might do well to start over, but I know it must be hard to start again when you're so far, but it might be the best way...


Yes, it is really hard. I've already put more than $1,000 USD in this computer.

I haven't summoned the will to check the thermal paste because that involves me unhooking everything from my mother board, then unscrewing the bolts to take off the liquid cooler. 50C is just WAY too hot for a liquid cooler...

The BIOS sensor is that one that works for me. Anything in Windows doesn't give a good readout.
July 14, 2006 1:10:41 AM

Coolermaster Hyper 8
Yes I am using a themal probe right on the cpu.
July 14, 2006 2:13:10 AM

Yeah, I know. I hate to even mention it. To break down something that is so close just makes you want to hit something....So close, yet so far. Life isn't fair. :evil: 

Did you mean Cooler Master Hyper 48? I cannot find a "Hyper 8".... If it was the 48, these reviews do not seem to coincide with that you were getting:

Silent PC

Viper Lair

They are even using somewhat similar systems. I have no idea how you are getting. What do you mean, thermal probe? Like an actual device you are sticking onto the CPU? Or the probe that is built in? You said you are getting these numbers from the BIOS, correct?

To check whether these are the "true" temps, we will do a poke test. You have to two options: Touch the heatsink while the computer is on OR touch the heatsink RIGHT after the computer turns off. Either way, you should not get burnt if these are true temperatures of 18-20C. That is around a 65F, which is lower than your body temperature so it'll feel slightly cooler than room temperature. Now, if these are incorrect readings that you are getting from the BIOS there is a chance you might get burnt. It is rare it will actually burn, just feel hot. But I want to warn you. I say the built-in sensor is messing with you. CoolerMaster isn't particularly known for extreme cooling products. Those temps are of an extremely amazing water cooling or a faulty phase change. I just cannot see those temps with any air cooler.

If I get what you are saying in your latest post, are you using a device to measure the heat the processor with the probe? Like an actual device in your hands that touches the processor?

~Ibrahim~
July 20, 2006 9:08:22 PM

Small update: Just recieved my new PSU (and my extra 1.5 gigs of RAM) at my door today and put everything in. The 12V value is at 11.71 now instead of 11.20. So far I haven't had problems booting up (then again, I only booted up once). I hope I get what I paid for.
July 20, 2006 10:54:17 PM

Here's the thing... you almost always get what you pay for and if you pay $40 for a 500w psu think about what you are getting.

The major issue with psu's isn't always whether they can generate enough power but at what temperature they generate it. Many psu's are tested at 25C but operate at 40C.... doesn't make much sense right?

The other thing is the number of amps on the 12v rail, you should have at least 25amps for single gpu set ups (30 if you OC) and 35amps for dual gpu (40 if you OC). These are general only and will depend on what else you have in your system...

My 750w psu puts out 60amps combined on its quad 12v rails.

Let us know if your computer stays stable... also, the load on the psu is very high at start up, especially on the 12v rail which leads to issues POSTing but if you can get past it you are fine once you are booted. That's why you can boot and run fine sometimes.
July 21, 2006 2:17:33 AM

Agreed. Some PSU wattage claims are both done at "to-die-for" temperatures and it is the maximum wattage, not the regular usage wattage..

Good Luck!

~Ibrahim~

P.S. Don't mean to sound greedy, but 600th post!
July 24, 2006 7:48:01 AM

Glad to say I don't have anymore problems with failure to post on startup anymore. Sometime when I get the will to, I'll try to start overclocking again. For now though, I'm happy with the way it's turning out. I just never expected it to cost this much...
July 24, 2006 8:43:24 AM

an OC'd 805, 7900GT and the liquid cooling uses alot of power, so if your PSU is only a generic 500W, it might not be keeping up. Try a different PSU like an antec, enermax, seasonic or another good PSU.
July 24, 2006 6:33:49 PM

Yeah, I just put in a new PSU (Antec, 550W).

I still don't have any problems posting, but just a minute ago I got a BSOD (because of that PCI card I salvaged, which I'll be taking out very soon) and my computer rebooted. Took longer than usual to post, but it started up... And it also reset my time again.
July 24, 2006 11:42:50 PM

It is still resetting the time everytime you reboot? Weird... You have SP2 on XP, right?

This is the closest thing I could find to resetting time after reboot:

Micro$oft

Sorry.

A PCI device caused a reboot? Interesting. Did it stop when you took it out?

~Ibrahim~
July 26, 2006 3:23:25 AM

Okay, I got a complete no-post boot just now. Is the power supply not powerful enough? If so, I have to figure out how to return it.

I haven't taken the PCI sound card out yet, but the problem arose when I was trying to get Adobe Audition to record Stereo Mix. I selected the PCI card and then I got a BSOD. So I had to uninstall and reinstall. If I try to record stereo mix with my onboard sound, even if it's quiet, it'll find some noise and begin to amplify it over and over until it's white noise. -- EDIT: Fixed this, nevermind. Adobe Audition now reboots my machine with a BSOD with some "0x000000#" error everytime I run it. Third time on a fresh install of Audition. This time, the program CTD'd, then upon startup it began doing this. I have had problems with Vegas as well.

Yes, I do have SP2 on XP.
July 26, 2006 2:17:54 PM

38A should be more than enough. WTF. It has to be powerful enough, no way everything is pulling over 38A. Even with the liquid cooler. Jesus, all these problems just pop up. F*ck. OK, it is stable, right? I mean, before it quit POST'ing.

I'm kind of confused. What got fixed? It gives you a STOP code? Did you catch it? That way we can possibly pinpoint what the problem is.

Vegas being?

Will it boot with the sound card out?

~Ibrahim~
July 26, 2006 8:56:41 PM

I'm going to take the sound card out. EDIT - Sound card is out.

It boots fine almost all the time, it's just that I've occurred the no posting problem once with the new PSU.

I'm referring to Sony Vegas, maybe that was a bad install...
Adobe Audition, I have no idea what's up with that. I've reinstalled it several times.

I'm worried about game crashing as well. I tried things like the Prey demo and the EverQuest II trial which both crashed on loading/startup, but worked fine afterwards. I mean, there's always crashing to be expected, it just feels too frequent for me. I've ruled out faulty memory... Maybe it's the divider/timings. I heard that those can cause an unstable system/program crashing somewhere.

The stop code I see is "0x0000002c". Also, I see win32k.sys BSODs as well. I see two BSOD trends: with Audition and when I try to max out the resolution in a certain Half-Life 2 modification.

I'm sorry that this thread is still alive, but you and everyone else have my utmost gratitude for your continued support. I really appreciate the time you take helping me out.
!