500 dollars / Euros
1) Analyze your past usage of your computer and determine what you are missing out on.
2) Just don’t give a dam that you are recycling components from your old computer.
3) Ask yourself how long you will be using your new computer. For example: if you planning to use your new computer for over 3 years because you have always done so, there is absolutely no reason to take upgradeability into account. Upgradeability is only viable when you like to rebuild every now and then (6months, 1 year) because it is your hobby to do so.
4) Getting a decent power supply does not mean you need a 500 Watts or more power supply.
It means you need to make sure the power rating is genuine; many people on these forums wrote about this, I suggest you read them with your EGO switched off. Some of those people came up with decent power supplies just above 50 dollars/Euros.
Example: If the power rating of your old 350 Watts power supply is genuine than it will be able to power any single video card configuration, no matter how many RAM or disks inside.
I measured the power usage of my main pc and it uses between 100 and 180 watts.
(X2-3800, 1 GB DDR2, Raid1, 7600 graphics) (As a rule: make sure your power usage stays under 75% of the GENUINE power rating)
5) You will find that for this kind of money you will probably end up upgrading main board, memory, cpu, graphics card and recycling your hard drive, optical drive, floppy drive, case and power supply (maybe soundcard, the SBLive and the audigy 2 cards are pretty hard to beat when it comes to sound quality). If you do not have these items to recycle yet, you could look for any ATX build with a GENUINE 350 Watts power supply second hand that works (careful though, see point 6). Many PIII series are build like that and can be had for as little as 50 dollars/Euros including monitor. Don’t bother when you go this route with looking for best specs, just look if it contains the recyclable items mentioned above. So 4 new products within a 500 dollar/Euro budget. Basically 25% of your budget for each component, it will be different in certain scenarios. new components (main board, CPU, memory, graphics card)
6) I would not suggest going second hand, although there can be had many advantages that way, you really need to know exactly what you are looking for and how it is suppose to work. Only go this route if you know this or can take someone with you who does know these things.
Office use: 25% from budget for each component ($125 per component)
Gaming: 15% main board ($75), 30% CPU ($150), 25% memory ($125), 30% graphics card ($150)
Editing/encoding: 20% main board ($100), 35% CPU ($175), 20% memory ($100), 25% graphics card ($125)
(Side note for computers used for office applications: I got an old PIII 733 running every modern office application without any problems or being too slow under XP) In this case consider to put your money into stress relieving upgrades and use your current computer another 2 years or so.
Example: If you still use a CRT monitor you could change it for a LCD/TFT monitor, relieving the stress on your eyes. You could also consider putting your money into lowering noise levels.
If the computer is office use only you could also consider to just order a Dell for under 400 dollars that includes an lcd/tft or any other pre-build system and turn your old computer into a file server or a safety feature regarding your internet connection.
1000 dollars / Euros
1) Analyze your past usage of your computer and determine what you are missing out on.
2) Just don’t give a dam that you are recycling components from your old computer.
3) Ask yourself how long you will be using your new computer. For example: if you planning to use your new computer for over 3 years because you have always done so, there is absolutely no reason to take upgradeability into account. Upgradeability is only viable when you like to rebuild every now and then (6months, 1 year) because it is your hobby to do so.
4) Getting a decent power supply does not mean you need a 500 Watts or more power supply.
It means you need to make sure the power rating is genuine; many people on these forums wrote about this, I suggest you read them with your EGO switched off. Some of those people came up with decent power supplies just above 50 dollars/Euros.
Example: If the power rating of your old 350 Watts power supply is genuine than it will be able to power any single video card configuration, no matter how many RAM or disks inside.
I measured the power usage of my main pc and it uses between 100 and 180 watts.
(X2-3800, 1 GB DDR2, Raid1, 7600 graphics) (As a rule: make sure your power usage stays under 75% of the GENUINE power rating)
5) If this is the first time you are going to use a computer, aka are curious what a computer can do for you, go with the previous option to buy a pre-build under 400 Dollars / Euros and find out, before investing in things you might never use. This way you’ll find soon enough what your computer needs to accommodate your needs. I would not suggest going second hand, although there can be had many advantages that way, you really need to know exactly what you are looking for and how it is suppose to work. Only go this route if you can take someone with you who does know these things
6) If you have nothing that is worth recycling aka you don’t have a computer currently or it is Pentium 1 or before you will find that you will need about 11 components most of the time.
(1,Mainboard, 2,CPU+cooler, 3, Memory 4, HDD, 5, CD/DvD drive, 6, Floppy drive, 7, graphics card, 8, casing, 9, power supply, 10, monitor, 11, keyboard-mouse)
As a basic rule you could chop up your budget in the following percentages.
Office Use: (although I still suggest you get that below 400dollar / euro pre-build I am assuming here you want some extra screen real estate and a silent computer)
Main board 7 % (onboard Vga/LAN/sound) ($70), CPU+cooler 8% ($80), Memory 6% ($60), HDD 8% ($80), CD/DvD/RW-Floppy drive-keyboard and mouse 7% (all together) ($70), casing 13% ($130), power supply 5% ($50), monitor 46% ($460)
Gaming: Main board 7% (onboard audio and LAN) ($70), CPU+cooler 17% ($170), Memory 12% ($120), HDD 8% ($80), CD/DvD/RW-Floppy drive-keyboard and mouse 7% (all together) ($70), graphics card 17% ($170), casing 5% ($50), power supply 5% ($50), monitor 22% ($220)
Editing /encoding: Main board 7% (onboard audio, LAN) ($70), CPU+Cooler 23% ($230), Memory 6% ($60), HDD 8% ($80), CD/DvD/RW-Floppy drive-keyboard and mouse 7% (all together) ($70), graphics card 9% ($90), casing 5% ($50), power supply 5% ($50), monitor 30% ($300)
If you do have, for example, keyboard, mouse, an Optical drive, floppy drive, casing with adequate power supply and a monitor to recycle (which is the case in most situations where there is a recyclable computer), the above becomes:
Office use: Absolutely no ground to spend 1k, Go with pre-build under 400 dollars/Euros, even cheaper when you just want the system and not the monitor.
Gaming: Main board 11% (onboard audio and LAN) ($110), CPU+cooler 30% ($300), Memory 18% ($180), HDD 8% ($80),
Graphics card 33% ($330)
Editing/encoding: Main board 11% (onboard audio, LAN, raid controller) ($110), CPU+cooler 40% ($400), Memory 18% ($180), HDD 16% (2 HDD for raid 1) ($160), graphics card 15% ($150)
1500 dollars / euros
I would like to call this price range the cornerstone segment towards serious computing.
I am not saying the previous sections are not for the serious computing needs, what I mean to state is this section often entails some investments that will last you a bit longer (casing, power supply, monitor, input peripherals). In that regard it is a corner stone to truly task dedicated computers. Although a computer is one of the worst investment (money wise) you could make, you could make it last longer in 3 ways.
1 Use the computer until it will absolutely not run anymore (not a option for diehard gamers)
2 Make sure you got some upgrade paths open. (that is if you KNOW you are going to upgrade within 2 years, otherwise no use in leaving upgrade paths open)
3 Buy a casing, power supply, monitor and some input/optical peripherals of high quality, these will become perfect recyclables.
The thoughts stated in the 1k budget (1-5) are still valid in my opinion even in this segment.
So I will get right to the percentages in which you could divide your budget.
You will not find an Office use computer in this price range. Also keep in mind I am seeing this segment as a corner stone for your next computer. I do divide this into 3 sections.
No recyclables present (or just want new build, corner stone), with recyclables (you already have the corner stone items) and a segment for people who will use this pc till it will not run anymore. (7-8 years and than buy a complete new system)
Total new build (buying the corner stone’s (casing, power supply, input peripherals))
(Your old computer will be recycled in either server use or handed down to someone)
Gaming: Main board 7% (onboard audio, LAN) ($105), CPU+Cooler 14% ($210), Memory 11% ($165), HDD 6% ($90), CD/DvD/RW-floppy drive-keyboard and mouse 10% ($150), graphics card 14%($210), casing 10% ($150), power supply 7% ($105), monitor 21% ($315)
Editing/encoding: Same as gaming machine
Build with previously bought cornerstones.
(here you will see the advantages if you bought that high quality casing, power supply, monitor and input/optical peripherals in a previous build)
Gaming: Main board 7% (onboard audio, LAN, raid controller) ($105), CPU+Cooler 30% ($450), memory 22% ($330), HDD 16% (2 HDD for raid 0, 1 HDD for doubling important data) ($240), graphics card 25% ($375)
Editing/encoding: Main board 10% (onboard audio, LAN, raid controller) ($150), CPU+Cooler 40% ($600),
Memory 11% ($165), HDD 24% (2 HDD for raid 1(as large and fast drives as possible)) ($360), graphics card 15% ($225)
Long term usage (7-8 years and then buy complete new system)
(only one configuration here, as said, this is not an option for diehard gamers, this option is often used by people who do play games, just not the latest but some games from some time ago and further use the computer on a daily based on either work (programming, writing etc.) or personal use like internet, administration and before mentioned games or hobby.
(Usually these people back up important data to DVD or the likes, maybe even tape)
Main board 7% (onboard audio, LAN) ($105), CPU+Cooler 20% ($300), memory 22% ($330), HDD 6% ($90), CD/DvD/RW-floppy drive-keyboard and mouse 5% ($75), graphics card 10% ($150), casing 5% ($75), power supply 4% ($60), monitor 21% ($315)
2500 dollars / Euros and up
This segment and up is either for professionals (their job is related to seriously DEMANDING computer usage) or for the diehard gamer who wants high resolution/quality gaming and has money to burn. These people will usually not recycle old computer into new system, but hand it down to someone or give it a new purpose within a network (monitor, casing, power supply might be reused to get that bleeding edge CPU and graphics card in rebuilt although I do think that will only be done by the gamers in this price segment).
I also think point 1 in the 1k budget statements is still valid here.
“Analyze your previous computer usage to determine what you are missing out on”
Gaming: Main board 5% (onboard LAN, raid controller) ($125), CPU+Cooler 16% ($400), Memory 11% ($275), HDD 10% (2 HDD for raid 0, 1 HDD for doubling important data) ($250), CD/DvD/RW-floppy drive-keyboard and mouse 5% ($125), graphics card 16% ($400), audio card 4% ($100), casing 6% ($150), power supply 4% ($100), monitor 23% ($575)
CAD graphics/ Editing-composing AV/encoding: Main board 5% (onboard LAN, raid controller) ($125), CPU+Cooler 12% ($300), Memory 7% ($175), HDD 10% (2 HDD for raid 0, fast and large as possible) ($250), CD/DvD/RW-floppy drive-keyboard 3% ($75), mouse (most likely pen) 5% ($125), graphics card 10% (including hardware video encoding) ($250), audio card 10% ($250), casing 6% ($150), power supply 4% ($100), monitor 28% ($700) (side note: If professional audio composing is your thing, you need lower graphics and mouse percentages (you wont be using pen) and add those percentages to the audio card percentages. In the same way if CAD graphics is your thing, use the onboard audio option and add the audio card percentages to your monitor and maybe a more precise pen (mouse replacement).
With higher budgets than 2500 dollars / Euros you start specializing.
Gamers maybe go SLi route and larger screens.
Audio composers will probably go terratec professional (1k audio cards and up) and maybe even start using UPS (not so much for surge protection, but because of the filtered clean and stable power resulting in lower noise levels in audio)
AV editors would probably go with better hardware support for encoding, larger screens (multiple), high end audio cards, and for same reasons as the audio composer, a UPS)
(Not only lower noise levels in audio but also in picture)
CAD graphics people will start using larger screens (wacom, Eizo style LCD where you draw directly on the screen)
And that’s as far as I will go.
I’ll end this with a list of brands that in my opinion should always be taken into consideration whatever the price range.
Any suggestions or comments for this guide are very welcome. Also feel free to comment on grammar and spelling (I am Dutch). But please do explain yourself. I could learn from you.
As we are all student and teacher at the same time.
Here is the list. Don’t take it personal if your favorite brand is not listed. I just draw from personal experiences and state the brands that in some way or another stood out in quality and/or performance to me. Also I narrowed it down to brands commonly available aka some high end brands are beyond these price ranges. Another thing is these brands can all be fitted into all the above budget percentages.
Main boards: ASUS, ABIT, Aopen
Memory: Corsair (there are other brands that are very good but often show compatibility
issues, I have yet to see the first appropriate corsair module not to be compatible)
Graphic cards: ASUS, Matrox, Aopen, Creative
Optical drives: ASUS, ABIT, Aopen, Plextor
Casings, PSU: Asus, Coolermaster, Spire
Sound cards: Creative, Terratec
Monitor: ASUS, iiyama, Philips, Eizo, Hansol
Hard drives: Western Digital, Seagate
Input peripherals: Logitech, Wacom
Although these are A brands they all have value components in their line ups which are not that much more expensive than the B brand counterparts. The quality of these parts however surpasses the build quality and stable operation in comparison to B brands noticeably.
Again, feel free to comment, point out grammar and spelling errors or suggest changes.
I hope this will help people choosing their components.