Hi,

I was just wondering... I have a coolermaster aquagate cooler.... the bigger one with the unit which can be used externally or internally... Anyway, I made quite a big error when I was installing the heatsink.... I noticed there were 3 holes when the actual installation instructions showed 2.... so I installed 2 pipes into it... then I filled the unit with some coolant... blue coloured liquid... Anyway, when I did that... the coolant leaked out through the 3rd hole in the middle which i completely forgot about... leaked a fair bit... probably about 25ml - 40ml of liquid.. onto my graphics card which is an Asus GF7900GTX which i haven't even had the chance to use.... pretty gutted... but luckly I suppose, the machine wasn't on at that time... The other thing is that the liquid only got spilt onto the underneath of the graphics card... All I was just wondering is that what are the chances that my motherboard and graphics card be damaged rendering it unuseable ? I tried to connect the power supply to turn on the machine but to no avail.... The only thing that happens is that the fan spins just as I connect the power to the psu.... Any ideas if that is a good thing or not ?? Would appreciate some advice/ help....

Much appreciated,
T

Get some deionised water and clean all the coolant off with it, with all the power cables unlpluged and you should wait about an hour before using the water after unpluging the cables so all the capacitors discharge before you do it. Then put the cards in a hot dry place (airing cupboard is a good place) to dry, and I would leave them there for at least a day. Then give them a go again. I would check with returns before doing any of that to see what they advise. You could be able to get them on you household insurance under accidental damage.

You should really have not tried to power it after realising you had spilt coolant...

Thanks for the advice.... I didn't even try to power it up... All I did was used some tissue to clean the spilage... not tried any deionised water or anything like that.... Do I just get it from the stores? Also, do you have any idea why the fan spins just as I plug the power cord into the PSU mean ? Is it quite likely that the motherboard and graphics card will not work since it wasn't on when the liquid spilt on it... so I'd imagine it cannot short circuit? I am just ordering a new motherboard anyway so hopefully it will work with the graphics card...

Thanks very much for that note... Puts me at ease... for now anyway... I hope it still works....

Just remember that some coolants are conductive even when dry.

I had a home made chiller for a few months and the dielectric stuff saved my computer. I would suggest to use some in the cpu socket and around the area, however I havent had problems with water but I have seen people with corrosion in the cpu socket, if you ever plan on chillers or whatever it is a must.

Just a quick update to tell u guys that I have dried the computer for about 5 day... start up works fine... now to test the overclocking abilities of the pentium D 805!

its a great ocer but be sure you have sata 2 drives, 3GB transfer rate

I have a IDE drive atm... thinking of gettin an SATA drive... why is a SATA drive so important when overclocking?

I take it if i get the SATA drive, it should be primary ?

the colant and destiled water dont conduct electricity so your parts will be fine, although is good to let them dry for 2-3 days and clean up because the water can oxide some capacitators and that is not good. But your card will be ok dont worry.

Consider yourself lucky... I had a pump die on me about 5 years ago, the water stopped circulating... AMD DUron 750 @ 1.6GHz, it got so hot that the solder melted off the waterblock and got all over the mobo and graphics card.

Hey GomersPile,

Please do not do that.

What you say?

Comment on things you know nothing about.

Ace,

The SATA drives that Gomerspile is talking about make little to NO difference (all depends on the model you purchase like a raptor).

First the reason I say this is that NO drives out there could currently saturate even a PATA 133 interface. Where this starts to become an issue is during the use of massive RAID arrays. Where a cumlative effect of the drives come closer to saturation levels which means it would then be nice to have SATA I or even better SATA II. Now the SATA drives (newer) also contain something called NCQ or Native Command Queuing. This is one of the few features that CAN help speed things along in the SATA environment. The limit that Gomerspile is talking about is nothing more than the theorhectial limit imposed by the INTERFACE not an individual drive.

In long , A single SATA drive is not going to make that drastic of a difference unless it is a 10k drive.

Hope this helps!!

I know quite a bit about what can happen, the auto nogation between the freq's and bus speed is a problem with sata1 drives unless one gets a sata2 interface. Dont say nothing happens because this can lead to a bad hd and end the ocers dream and how would you like it if a dude posted his loss and blamed it on you becuse of your advice.

What I said the last time!!!

That is why you lock the bus when OCing..

Has nothing to do with SATA I or II ANYTHING...

even when locking the drive to 1.5mb this can happen, I have seen this happen and the hd was cooked, the problem is not the data transfer, it is the freq's and IDE to SATA divider on some mb and harddrives that are sata1. The system can not change the divider to match the cpu and SATA IDE freq's which will cause harddrive errors when ocing more than the SATA IDE divider can change.