Any tutorials or sites on how to learn to drive in Porsche..

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Thanks in advance!
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    I can offer setup information, based on NFSPU's quirky physics


    In NFSPU, rear downforce prevents a car from going airborne over a rise, but there's no increase in grip. Front downforce doesn't
    seem to do anything but slow a car down.

    Set front downforce to 0, and only use enough rear downforce to keep the car under control over jumps or rises on a track. I find
    that even with the fast cars, 50/0 is enough for the flatter tracks, 65/0 is enough to handle most rails and jumps, but just
    barely. 80/0 is the most you should need, and some records have been set offline with 70/0.

    Using less downforce will improve high speed acceleration. It will also increase top speed if the car isn't already reaching
    redline in top gear. In the case of the GT1, with 100/0 downforce, top speed is about 200mph. At 0/0 downforce, the GT1's top
    speed increases to 231mph, redlining with 6th and final gear adjusments set to zero. This increases to about 235mph if final gear
    is set to -.10, with 6th left at 0. (A special gearing bug can improve speed even more, see below).

    Tire pressure

    In NFSPU, tire pressure does not affect speed. When I ran the GT1 speed versus tall 6th gear tests (see below), there was no
    significant difference in speed with tire pressures at 30/30 or 45/45.

    I used a GT1 at the test track to see the relationship between tire pressure and grip, pressures listed as rear/front.

    25/25 = 175mph = 2.87g's
    30/30 = 180mph = 3.03g's
    35/35 = 183mph = 3.14g's
    40/40 = 185mph = 3.20g's
    45/45 = 188mph = 3.31g's

    36/45 = 195mph = 3.56g's

    NFSPU cars corner better when rear tire pressures are less than front tire pressures, which I call differential pressure, and
    under heavy throttle (near full or full throttle) In addition, differential pressure, combined with an appropriate amount of toe
    in (next section), creates a controllable oversteer reaction to lifting the throttle. If a car is going too fast in a corner,
    lifting on the throttle will nose a car inwards and slow it down at the same time, keeping the car on track.

    The driving method for lift throttle oversteer requires that some (or full) throttle be applied to maximize cornering. The method
    I recommend is to enter corner a bit fast, lift throttle as required to slow car down for the apex, then get back onto the
    throttle to hold speed or accelerate while completing the corner.

    These tire pressure combinations give the best possible static cornering, but are a bit too much for actual use:

    1998 GT1 36/45
    1995 turbo 38/45

    38/45 to 40/45 is enough for the GT1, and 40/45 to 42/45 is enough for the 993.

    Toe in

    Use the toe in to adjust oversteer tendency. Right is more oversteer, left is more understeer. Both toe in and differential tire
    pressures (previous section) affect oversteer.

    Assuming that a car has been setup with differential pressure, use toe in to adjust the controllability of lift throttle
    oversteer reaction. Toe in to the right is more reaction, toe in to the left is less reaction (but more control).

    For Cote and Pyrenees, I use toe in all the way right. At Corsica, to deal with the hairpins, I set toe in all the way left. I
    also use toe in all the way left at Autobahn. This is a driver preference (and skill) issue.

    Braking balance

    All the way left gives the best braking, for braking in a straight line. With the differential pressure setup I mentioned above,
    there's no need to use the brakes while cornering.

    Trying to tune the balance for braking while cornering is difficult. Most players set the balance so far forwards that braking
    while cornering will just create a severe understeer, usually sending the car off track. The balance should be a bit to the left,
    so that some amount of braking both slows and oversteers. This is much more difficult to do than to use lift throttle oversteer,
    so I don't recommend it. Set balance all the way left, only brake while going straight, and use the throttle (only) for speed
    control in corners.

    Note, even with ABS off, it's not possible to lock up the tires from braking while going straight on any car in NFSPU (at least
    all the ones I've tested).

    Race car gearing

    This is yet another NFSPU physics bug: the taller top gear is, the more powerful a car. It works with any car, but only the race
    cars have legally adjustable gears. In the case of the GT1, 6th gear adjument is set to -0.25 and final gear (rear end) adjusment
    set to -0.50, which corresponds to 6th gear set so tall that it the GT1 would have to go 420mph to redline in 6th. This reduces
    6th gear to being almost useless (it can hold a speed for a while if you shift out of 5th to prevent hitting the rev-limiter).
    1st through 5th gears are adjusted according to the track. The result is a much faster car. Some sample setup values for 1st thru
    5th, assuming 6th at -0.25, and final at -0.50:

    +0.10 +0.05 +0.05 +0.10 +0.10
    (Cote, Pyrenees, Normandie, etc).

    -0.05 -0.10 -0.10 -0.05 -0.05 or
    -0.10 -0.15 -0.15 -0.10 -0.05
    (monte carlo tracks with long straight, and autobahn).

    -0.15 -0.20 -0.20 -0.15 -0.10 or
    -0.20 -0.25 -0.25 -0.20 -0.10
    (zone, with 4th closer to 5th)
  2. Archived from groups: (More info?)

    "cp" <> wrote in message
    > Thanks in advance!

    Ever tried reading my FAQ on

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