Help! Heat!

Thank you for your time. I recently finished installing a Koolance CPU-300-V10 to a IntelD805 processor on an asus p5n32-sli motherboard. (basic water cooling setup) I have succeeded in getting power to everything, and succesfully ran a water test before installing all the components. Now my problem is, when I turn the system on, the system heat alarms keep going off as the temperature continues to rise. After about 5 minutes, the temp will rise from 23degrees celsius to 32degrees celsius. Is this normal? Could the temp gauge be acting up? As of now I have the sensor for the CPU next to the CPU, but not physically touching it. The other 2 sensors are untouched. I'm afraid to run the system for more than 5 minutes, so is this heat range normal? Or what could be causing the CPU to heat up so fast as I have the cooling block installed the same as a friend of mine, who has the same set up. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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  1. I imagine (since your temps are actually very low) it is one of two things, either it is due to you not having a signal going to the CPU fan sensor, and hence it is complaining about the CPU fan not spinning and therefore expecting to overheat, or it is thinking it is too cold but this is less likely...
  2. Is thus cpu fan sensor something I have to block? Sorry for my noob language, but a friend showed me a small plastic piece that I may have to insert somewhere in a power strip, and he also mentioned something about cmos.
    Im happy to hear that those are low temps...what are temperatures that I would have to worry about?
    And lastly, my motherboard doesnt have a fan, would the thing still have a fan sensor.
  3. Your mobo will be expecting a CPU fan to be present, as you don't have one it will complain, somewhere in your bios settings you may be able to find something about fan failure warnings or something similar... probably under the health section.

    Don't know about the 'bit of plastic' or why you'd have to do a CMOS reset, you'd only need to do this if you were modifying bios settings and did it badly enough that the PC would not POST at which point you reset it to a std configuration...
  4. Great, Ill try these things and post results. Thanks.
  5. OK so Once i got the monitor hooked up, it did say there was a CPU fan error, however, the system now crashes. The "bit of plastic" I found was the controller for the dvdrw to be master and slave. After inserting the piece onto master, it seemed to stabilize the mobo activity on boot. After 5 min, the system goes black screen. So once again, being a noob I'm seeking anyones help!
  6. OK, deep breath.... we'll take this nice and slow..

    Walk me through exactly what you have plugged in where... I will be asking a lot of 'dumb' questions... bear with me/us, you are our eyes & ears as we are trying to help id the problem. Don't bother telling me about the cooling circuit, I'm not a watercooling expert, and it probably would not create the fault condition you are seeing. Also respond quickly please, as I'll be only available for next few hours, and a little tomorrow.

    Tell me all of the components that you have... and please list them, and don't provide newegg links.

    The bit of plastic is called a jumper... it creates a bridge (a short) between two pins.

    Also what software have you installed so far... and have you installed it from new, i.e. no using an old version of windows from an old system and just dumping the HDD onto the the system as a boot disk..
  7. Well, after more tinkering, I removed the cooling block and added more thermal paste, and the system was able to run bios for a good 5 minutes. THe problem here I believe lies within heat. As of now, its the cooling block sitting on the processor. It keeps overheating then going to black screen.
  8. have you got an airlock?

    Can you get it started and installed with a std HSF and then migrate it to Water afterwards?
  9. Heres the list of components

    Mobo: Asus p5n32 sli
    video card: geforce nvidia 7900 gto
    corsair xms2 ddr2 800mz 2g matched pair
    samsung 250g hd sataII
    liteon dvdrw ide
    630watt power supply

    I have not installed anything, just been running bios on the pc as of now
  10. right now I am an hour away from the HSF I left it at home, as I am a student in college. I also added more water to the system and it seemed to improve the amount of time that it ran until crashing.
  11. You are aware of how much thermal paste to use? i.e. not much?
  12. Yes, I am aware of the small amount of paste that is required.
  13. is the pump pumping? if not there is no circulation, and therefore it will be heating a very small volume of water.

    I'm trying to cover the basics here, as I said I'm no water expert but I am an engineer, hence the dumb questions :wink:
  14. No problem I appreciate the help a lot :) I see a nice water flow occuring, even with less water I could see a nice flow going. Hopefully its not the cooler itself. I am using a Koolance PC3-720 integrated case, came premanufactured.
  15. well back to fundementals...

    if water is flowing, and passing through the CPU block, and to the rad, and then the resi (if it has one), and the fans are on in the rad then the system should be working ok.

    But we are seeing that the CPU is overheating (possibly), so the heat is not being transferred from the CPU to the water.

    Either the circuit is made up incorrectly, or there is an airlock in the CPU block, and it is letting water through but is mostly full of air. Or the CPU block is not installed properly, this showed up a lot recently with the C2D's and lots of people getting the stock HSF intalled incorrectly resulting in poor contact and therefore poor heat transfer.

    Is the water warm? can you feel the tubes before and after the cpu block?

    Alternatively this could be a GPU fault, and could also be related to warming, hence the screen going black... have you put the GPU on the cooling circuit?
  16. The system is now turning on and going directly to a black screen. Just a nice update :)
  17. how hot is the cpu block?

    and how can you see the liquid flow?
  18. The GPU has its own fan and is functioning. When idling at the black screen the overheating alarm started going off again. And the tubes, they seem to be warm, but not hot.
  19. is there a difference before and after the CPU block in terms of tube temp?
  20. I haven'e been able to run the system long enough for it to completely work out all the air bubbles in the tubes. The tubes have been cut to length and there are no kinks.
  21. There seems to be no difference in the tube temperatures.
  22. that tells me that there is no heat transfer to the liquid, or that the rad is not working.

    I doubt the rad as it would do something regardless, (does the rad feel warm to the touch?).

    Have you bled the system?
  23. Do you think that the temperature sensor can be removed, and that it would be safe to run the pc for say 10 minutes?
  24. which temp sensor? the water cooling one should be ok...

    when you say that there is a temp alarm, where is that coming from the mobo or the water system?
  25. Wow thats a scary thought...especially after spending 400 on the whole integrated case. But this could very well be the issue as the radiator does not feel cool.
  26. There are 3 separate sensors that derive from the cooling system, not the mobo. They are labeled 1-3 amd I put one onto the cpu clip, next to the processor but not touching it.
  27. warm rad = good... hot water is getting to it which is the point...

    I'm coming to a conculsion that there is an airlock inside the cpu block, or the rad, or that you have plumbed in the cooling circuit so that it is not really a circuit, can you describe where each tibe goes to and comes from...
  28. I wouldn't be too fussed about removing them, is that where the alarm is coming from...
  29. Ok. The reservoir has one tube exiting it and leading the one of the cooling block nozzles. The next tube exits the cooling block and leads the the back of the radiator. Then, a third tube exits the other side of the radiator and into the reservoir again.
  30. I can cycle through the settings on my koolance display, and the first temp sensor (1) is connected to the cpu clip. This is the highest reading temperature of the 3 sensors. Turning it on now at 31 degrees celsius it goes to black screen, with no visual of the mobo bootup screen.
  31. OK, thought it might be more complicated than that.
  32. have you beld the system...

    can you try another video card, there was a thread about a bad GTO on the site earlier...
  33. i have a older koolance case, i have a 3 80's on a huge rad on top going into the cpu, out to a 80mm rad and into the video card and have no problems with temps, i think you have a airlock, if your system is sealed like mine you can tilt it a little while its on and look closely to see if you can see any airbubbles, ocasionally i get a buildup in my 80mm rad and i have to tilt it to release it. I also have a 805D but im also cooling a 850xt and the temps stay around 28C-30C idle and max(dead of summer at full load) 42C
    its OC to 3.6ghz
  34. I bled the system once, and I got the video card off new egg. What could resolve a bad bleed? I just followed koolance instructions when I did it.
  35. try running the cooling circuit only for a good couple of hours and monitor the resi levels (use a pen to put a mark?) and see if they fall, watch for bubbles but you'll get bored.

    What did the koolance instructions say?

    Is the resi warm? like ddummyy said there may be a lock in the resi? this might tell you if there is.
  36. dunno why mine does it either but it does, try to tilt it and see if its getting air, ONLY IF ITS A SEALED SYSTEM THOUGH.
  37. do i need to remove the block from the pcu while doing this? I removed the main power from themobo and closed the circuit so the cooler can run. DO I need to remove anything else?
  38. I think best done with everything in-situ. BUT ideally you want the resi to be the higest point which is not what I see with the caes that you have... can you change that or is there a bleed valve on top the rad?
  39. The bleed is the only the place where you fill the reservoir. Koolance says to turn the system upside down to drain it.
  40. no need to drain it.

    you are aware that bleeding is for the removal of air from the system?
  41. Ok I have the system running just the cooler right now and keeping an eye on it. There are very small bubbles that are not moving in the tubes, but the reservoir is showing activity with flowing water
  42. the bubbles need to come out... did you use a wetting agent in the water? or is it plain water...
  43. Ya just like car brakes hehe. I have not bled the system then, Ill look into that right now and see what koolance says.
  44. The liquid is from Koolance also, made for this specific set-up I presume. Also the reservoir is filled so that it can catch air as the water passes through.
  45. the cpu block is often a convoluted path for the water, to maximise the time the water spend in contact with the hot block to remove the max amount of heat, this path is a nice place for bubbles to hang out, get together with other bubbles and cause trouble.

    plain water or not? ok good, plain water is bad fo a number of reasons, but treated water should help bubbles lose surface tension and merge and float to top
  46. Distilled water, Im going to remove the block as to free some bubbles for now, the motherboard is not powered on.
  47. ok it should be distilled water with 'stuff' in it really from my limited understanding.

    Removing the CPU block and tapping it would not be a bad idea, but not on the side that contacts the CPU obviously, be prepared to clean of the thermal material and apply some more, reusing it can be a bad idea.
  48. Cool, I will try that, its now settled at 23 degrees celsius. Ill leave it running for a few hours and update you all.
    Thanks for your help guys! When I get the knowledge Ill be sure to return the favor to the forum.
  49. OK, post results and let us know, I'm off to bed soon so I won't answer for a while.

    23 sounds like room temp, so thats a good sign. Good luck.
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