Help! Heat!

[Falcorn]

Thank you for your time. I recently finished installing a Koolance CPU-300-V10 to a IntelD805 processor on an asus p5n32-sli motherboard. (basic water cooling setup) I have succeeded in getting power to everything, and succesfully ran a water test before installing all the components. Now my problem is, when I turn the system on, the system heat alarms keep going off as the temperature continues to rise. After about 5 minutes, the temp will rise from 23degrees celsius to 32degrees celsius. Is this normal? Could the temp gauge be acting up? As of now I have the sensor for the CPU next to the CPU, but not physically touching it. The other 2 sensors are untouched. I'm afraid to run the system for more than 5 minutes, so is this heat range normal? Or what could be causing the CPU to heat up so fast as I have the cooling block installed the same as a friend of mine, who has the same set up. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[13thmonkey]

I imagine (since your temps are actually very low) it is one of two things, either it is due to you not having a signal going to the CPU fan sensor, and hence it is complaining about the CPU fan not spinning and therefore expecting to overheat, or it is thinking it is too cold but this is less likely...

 

[Falcorn]

Is thus cpu fan sensor something I have to block? Sorry for my noob language, but a friend showed me a small plastic piece that I may have to insert somewhere in a power strip, and he also mentioned something about cmos.
Im happy to hear that those are low temps...what are temperatures that I would have to worry about?
And lastly, my motherboard doesnt have a fan, would the thing still have a fan sensor.

 

[13thmonkey]

Your mobo will be expecting a CPU fan to be present, as you don't have one it will complain, somewhere in your bios settings you may be able to find something about fan failure warnings or something similar... probably under the health section.

Don't know about the 'bit of plastic' or why you'd have to do a CMOS reset, you'd only need to do this if you were modifying bios settings and did it badly enough that the PC would not POST at which point you reset it to a std configuration...

 

[Falcorn]

Great, Ill try these things and post results. Thanks.

 

[Falcorn]

OK so Once i got the monitor hooked up, it did say there was a CPU fan error, however, the system now crashes. The "bit of plastic" I found was the controller for the dvdrw to be master and slave. After inserting the piece onto master, it seemed to stabilize the mobo activity on boot. After 5 min, the system goes black screen. So once again, being a noob I'm seeking anyones help!

 

[13thmonkey]

OK, deep breath.... we'll take this nice and slow..

Walk me through exactly what you have plugged in where... I will be asking a lot of 'dumb' questions... bear with me/us, you are our eyes & ears as we are trying to help id the problem. Don't bother telling me about the cooling circuit, I'm not a watercooling expert, and it probably would not create the fault condition you are seeing. Also respond quickly please, as I'll be only available for next few hours, and a little tomorrow.

Tell me all of the components that you have... and please list them, and don't provide newegg links.

The bit of plastic is called a jumper... it creates a bridge (a short) between two pins.

Also what software have you installed so far... and have you installed it from new, i.e. no using an old version of windows from an old system and just dumping the HDD onto the the system as a boot disk..

 

[Falcorn]

Well, after more tinkering, I removed the cooling block and added more thermal paste, and the system was able to run bios for a good 5 minutes. THe problem here I believe lies within heat. As of now, its the cooling block sitting on the processor. It keeps overheating then going to black screen.

 

[13thmonkey]

have you got an airlock?

Can you get it started and installed with a std HSF and then migrate it to Water afterwards?

 

[Falcorn]

Heres the list of components

Mobo: Asus p5n32 sli
video card: geforce nvidia 7900 gto
corsair xms2 ddr2 800mz 2g matched pair
samsung 250g hd sataII
liteon dvdrw ide
630watt power supply

I have not installed anything, just been running bios on the pc as of now

 

[Falcorn]

right now I am an hour away from the HSF I left it at home, as I am a student in college. I also added more water to the system and it seemed to improve the amount of time that it ran until crashing.

 

[13thmonkey]

You are aware of how much thermal paste to use? i.e. not much?

 

[Falcorn]

Yes, I am aware of the small amount of paste that is required.

 

[13thmonkey]

is the pump pumping? if not there is no circulation, and therefore it will be heating a very small volume of water.

I'm trying to cover the basics here, as I said I'm no water expert but I am an engineer, hence the dumb questions

 

[Falcorn]

No problem I appreciate the help a lot I see a nice water flow occuring, even with less water I could see a nice flow going. Hopefully its not the cooler itself. I am using a Koolance PC3-720 integrated case, came premanufactured.

 

[13thmonkey]

well back to fundementals...

if water is flowing, and passing through the CPU block, and to the rad, and then the resi (if it has one), and the fans are on in the rad then the system should be working ok.

But we are seeing that the CPU is overheating (possibly), so the heat is not being transferred from the CPU to the water.

Either the circuit is made up incorrectly, or there is an airlock in the CPU block, and it is letting water through but is mostly full of air. Or the CPU block is not installed properly, this showed up a lot recently with the C2D's and lots of people getting the stock HSF intalled incorrectly resulting in poor contact and therefore poor heat transfer.

Is the water warm? can you feel the tubes before and after the cpu block?

Alternatively this could be a GPU fault, and could also be related to warming, hence the screen going black... have you put the GPU on the cooling circuit?

 

[Falcorn]

The system is now turning on and going directly to a black screen. Just a nice update

 

[13thmonkey]

how hot is the cpu block?

and how can you see the liquid flow?

 

[Falcorn]

The GPU has its own fan and is functioning. When idling at the black screen the overheating alarm started going off again. And the tubes, they seem to be warm, but not hot.

 

[13thmonkey]

is there a difference before and after the CPU block in terms of tube temp?

 

[Falcorn]

I haven'e been able to run the system long enough for it to completely work out all the air bubbles in the tubes. The tubes have been cut to length and there are no kinks.

 

[Falcorn]

There seems to be no difference in the tube temperatures.

 

[13thmonkey]

that tells me that there is no heat transfer to the liquid, or that the rad is not working.

I doubt the rad as it would do something regardless, (does the rad feel warm to the touch?).

Have you bled the system?

 

[Falcorn]

Do you think that the temperature sensor can be removed, and that it would be safe to run the pc for say 10 minutes?

 

[13thmonkey]

which temp sensor? the water cooling one should be ok...

when you say that there is a temp alarm, where is that coming from the mobo or the water system?