Core 2 Duo stock cooler question

I recently built a Core2 PC for a friend, and I'm quite concerned about the stock cooler's fixation system : Sure, it is simple, but it seemed a bit fragile, and even if it seems to be correctly attached, I couldn't help fearing the cooler to fall down from the mobo when I moved the computer. :?

I'll precise that even though I'm not a noob in computer building, I'm not really familiar with LGA775 CPUs & HSFs... that's why I don't feel comfortable with attaching a quite heavy cooler just with little plastic things...

My question is : is this system really reliable on the long term, or should I replace the stock cooler with a HSF that is attached with screws ?
(especially if I want to move the computer quite frequently)
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  1. The C2D stock coolers are alright, but there's an abundance of really great aftermarket coolers available now from Scythe etc.. which are really worth getting for reducing temps, noise and for OCing. Even if you aren't into OCing you should consider one anyway, they're pretty cheap.
  2. thanks for the advice... I think I'll go for an aftermarket cooler, at least to reduce noise, and maybe for moderate OCing.

    Is there a particular cooler I should go for (or avoid) ? I'm not looking for a high performance cooler or a flashy thing with LEDs... just an average cooler that does the job.
  3. Scythe Ninja is the one I have experience with, works real nice. The temps are low, the OCs are pretty good (only tried moderate FSB OC's) and it's quiet as hell.
  4. Quote:
    thanks for the advice... I think I'll go for an aftermarket cooler, at least to reduce noise, and maybe for moderate OCing. Is there a particular cooler I should go for (or avoid) ? I'm not looking for a high performance cooler or a flashy thing with LEDs... just an average cooler that does the job.

    I've been searching for what I think would be some suitable aftermarket coolers for the C2D platform, particularly bearing in mind Intel's recommendation for an omnodirectional fan for keeping airflow on the nearby VRMs, NB/MCH, etc. Here's my top two picks right now:

    PrimeCooler PC-HC5+CU
    Spire CoolWave III SP503B0-1

    Edited to add this URL:

    I'd say stick to the radial designs, but YMMV...

    Edited again to add that the C2D motherboards support four-wire fans (PWM control), and not many aftermarket fans support this. It's something you might want to keep an eye on.

    I wonder how much functionality is lost by plugging a three-pin cooler into the four-pin mobo connector, if you even can?

  5. The fourth pin is only for PWM (Pulse width modulation bullshit...) Which allows the mobo to control the fan, but most non-Intel mobo's control fans with the standard 3-pin, so basically, not much of a diiference.

    I like the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 pro, which also sorta follows specs...

    But I still think the stock HSF will work just fine. Just make sure all the corners are locked when you turn them, and it shouldn't fall off. But mine was a real biatch to latch on...
  6. Quote:
    But I still think the stock HSF will work just fine. Just make sure all the corners are locked when you turn them, and it shouldn't fall off. But mine was a real biatch to latch on...

    I'll soon upgrade my PC to a C2D E6400 (E6600 if I can afford it)... I think I'll start with a Asrock 775 Dual Mobo, then progressively replace my DDR, AGP card and PSU. During this transition period, I'll use the Intel stock cooler, and I'll replace it when I buy a better motherboard.

    But I didn't really see any cooler that seems to be really designed for C2D. most of the socket775 HSFs I saw were massive coolers, obviously designed for Pentium4 CPUs. From what I've read, C2D doesn't produce as much heat as P4, so I hoped there would be relatively compact coolers for C2D...
    Can C2D produce so much heat that such big coolers are needed ? Or is it just that HSF manufacturers decided that as P4 coolers work with C2D, they don't have to make new models ?
  7. Stock C2D cooler is just fine. The big coolers are because everyone here wants to OC the heckoutta their chip and need the cooling ;)
  8. Quote:
    Stock C2D cooler is just fine. The big coolers are because everyone here wants to OC the heckoutta their chip and need the cooling ;)

    That's pretty much on the mark. I don't think anyone in this thread looking for a C2D cooler has absolutely zero intention of going out of stock specifications.

    I was digging a little more last night and found the following...

    These four support Intel's PWM fan control with four pin connector:

    Nexus PHT-7750
    Thermaltake CL-P0101
    Thermaltake CL-P0037
    Radian CS7128

    I'm not sure if the P0101 is still made. None of these come close to the rest in terms of apparent capacity of the next four but they're all larger than the stock 450gr Intel HSF, even if not by much. Interpolating from the drawings here around pages 90-100, it looks like the boxed C2D comes with a fan sporting 80mm diameter blades. Impressive for a stock HSF to be honest.

    It's also worth noting that the same spec sheet intimates that the four-pin fan connector on a so-equipped motherboard does not support variable voltage fans and will supply a constant 12V. So a three-pin fan may end up going full tilt, full-time unless you use some other kind of controller.

    The following four don't support PWM fan control but do still maintain a radial design to help cool the regulators and memory hub:

    Zalman CNPS7700-Cu
    Thermaltake Blue Orb II
    Spire CoolWave III SP503B0-1
    PrimeCooler PC-HC5+CU or 4+

    The Zalman is very well reviewed but I wonder if it'll interfere with the enormous heat sink on the D975XBX2 MCH. The PrimeCooler looks a lot like the Zalman. No matter, I don't think anyone outside CZ can find 'em. Actually they all are similar in concept.

  9. I went aftermarket because I didn't want to listen to that 5000rpm fan anymore...

    This works out pretty good for me on my d975xbx.

    12cm pwm fan

    Thermalright si-128
  10. Quote:
    Stock C2D cooler is just fine. The big coolers are because everyone here wants to OC the heckoutta their chip and need the cooling ;)

    Well, that's true, I almost forgot about overclocking... Anyway, with a Asrock 775 Dual mobo, I won't even have to care about OCing... it's not made for that... maybe later, when i have a good mobo, and above all when I find my PC too slow ! As long as I'll be satisfied with the performance, I don't think I'll bother with OCing.
  11. It should be fine, depending on what you do. OC'ing will really only net you gains in encoding and other CPU intensive tasks, some gaming, but not anything to be really surprised about... The stock cooler is perfectly fine. Only reason you might want to change would to go quieter or whatnot.

    And yeah, all the huge coolers are for like 50%+ OC's... and to shield people from speeding bullets...
  12. Quote:
    It should be fine, depending on what you do....

    And the closer I look at the PWM -equipped units, the less they look like any substantial improvement over the stock HSF. Just FYI.
  13. Well... the main usage for my computer is 3dsmax rendering... so, whatever CPU I put in the computer, it will be on its knees. final renderings can take hours per frame... generally, I start the rendering, and I go to bed, so the performance gain brought by moderate overclocking would be worthles... and extreme overclocking could make the PC unstable (I don't want the computer to crash at 99% of a rendering)

    the problem is that recently, even low-res test renderings became too slow with my athlonXP 2600... it's getting horrible to adjust lighting in my scenes.
    That's why I really need to change my CPU... but I don't think overclocking will be really useful to me
  14. Programs like 3D Studio scale very well with increasing numbers of cores. If you have the cash to spare you might just want to wait until the quad-core stuff hits the streets...

    But I think we're creeping away from the topic now.

  15. Yeah, you really shouldn't worry about OC'ing your comp then. But are we still talking about the same computer/topic anymore? The question was about your friends comp... are you building one for yourself too...

    Confused... but get a core 2 duo!
  16. My original question came after I built a C2D computer for a friend. When I saw the way Intel stock cooler was attached, I started wondering what I should do for my own future build.

    About Quad core... yeah, it would be great... but I can't afford it... Before I saw the Asrock 775 dual, I didn't even consider upgrading, because changing my CPU meant replacing almost everything in my computer at the same time...

    moreover, computer hardware is a bit more expensive in Europe, since a $100 part in the USA will become a 100€ part in France ($100 = 78€)... sure, it's easier to convert $ and € this way... (a friend of mine who lives in London told me they often do the same between € and £...)

    but it's true : we're drifting away from the topic

    Thanks a lot for your help !
  17. Well, look at it this way: the stock C2D cooler is fine for running stock. And on a 6300 you can use the stock cooler if you OC it up to 3.0 ghz no problem. After that I'd recommend aftermarket cooling. You may not need one of those huge ones, so there are other options.....sounds like you wouldn't be doing extreme OC'ing in that event anyways so you would be fine. So that covers that issue.

    The next issue is that if you get a C2D chip and don't OC it for now (but may later) you can get much improved performance right out of the box. Your rendering times will improve vastly, especiallly if your sig is correct and you have an XP Barton. HUGE improvement with a stock C2D over a Barton. HUGE.

    Next issue, if you plan on OC'ing later, then you can still greatly improve the performance of the stock C2D. I've got a 50% OC on my 6300 right now and there's still more headroom. My encoding and filtering times have improved vastly. I used to sit down to watch some TV when waiting on my old 2500 Barton, and now I barely have time to go take a pi$$ ;)

    Any C2D will absolutely wipe the floor with what you have now. You can get the cheapest C2D, cheap mobo, stock cooler, everything right out of the box and it'll chew through CPU-intensive tasks without breaking a sweat compared to what you have now. Sorry, don't mean to insult what you have, am just giving an honest comparison so you're informed. You wouldn't need to spend lotsa $$ on great mobo/RAM/cooler to notice exponential improvements on your tasking times. ;)

    Just my $0.02 worth.....get a cheap C2D and let 'er rip! :D
  18. I wouldn't worry too much about the Intel spec of keeping the VRM cool with a CPU fan that blows down on the motherboard. Most cases have room for a case fan that mounts directly in line with the VRM and will provide adequate airflow over the VRMs. If you're not going to be doing any serious overclocking for awhile the stock unit will do. Some people have even achieved decent OC with the stock unit.

    If you feel the need to buy an aftermarket heatsink the Thermaltake Big Typhoon conforms to Intel's specs (aside from the 4-pin connector), can be had at a decent price and performs very well for the price. The Arctic Cooling Freezer Series are outstanding performers for the money (cheaper than the Big Typhoon) and are one of the few tower style coolers that do provide cooling to the motherboard's VRM provided you orient it correctly on the motherboard.

    Avoid Zalman's CNPS9500 and 9700 unless you can find them under $45 which isn't going to happen.

    Since you render a lot, I would seriously recommend looking at the Intel C2D E6600. They overclock very nicely and the extra cache will come in handy both of which will benefit your rendering needs. You're going to be pleasantly surprised once you switch from the Athlon XP to the C2D.
  19. don't worry, you're not insulting at all ! I'm fully aware that my CPU is now ridiculous compared to recent models (especially for the kind of software I use)... And I start insulting it more and more often... it is the signal that tells me it's time to change.

    You're going to be pleasantly surprised once you switch from the Athlon XP to the C2D.

    I've already tried to render a few of my scenes on a friend's E6600 and the only thing I can say is... WOW !!

    maybe I could recycle my barton into some media center PC... will be fine to watch movies... a nice retirement after what it has suffered with 3dsmax !
  20. Quote:
    If you feel the need to buy an aftermarket heatsink the Thermaltake Big Typhoon conforms to Intel's specs (aside from the 4-pin connector)

    Sort of. There will be a few blind spots and the fan will be going full tilt full time.

    Also, read The Heatsink Guide.

  21. i kno it might be a lil off topic but i just build a c2d 6400 system and i did have some complications setting it up and all in all it was a hassle but i got it done (still havent been able to enjoy it cuz im to rboke now for any games). the only reall problem i have is that even in simple idle moments my cpu runs at 85 C. that way 2 high! when i push it a lil it goes above 115's and i get really scared. i checked th hsf and i think the ehatsink is on corerectly. i put thermal paste arctic silver 5 so its not that. any1 got any ideas? (im think once i get some cash im going to get another pretty nice hsf
  22. Touch it, feel how hot it really is... I think that might be more of a mis-reading than an actual temp since the C2D isin't designed to go past 80C... so you should have a fireball in your comp by now... You sure that 85C... not 85F ?

    Don't worry about not getting a heatsink that conforms to spec since most aftermarket cases cool that area off and mobo's usually account for that sort of cooling also (heatpipes and heatsinks, whatever)

    If your looking to upgrade, wait a bit for DDR2 prices to drop, then jump on it... Black Friday is coming up... could be perfect time =)
  23. Quote:
    If you feel the need to buy an aftermarket heatsink the Thermaltake Big Typhoon conforms to Intel's specs (aside from the 4-pin connector)

    Sort of. There will be a few blind spots and the fan will be going full tilt full time.
    The Big Typhoon uses a fairly quiet 120mm fan. I wouldn't worry about it running all the time. It's not absolutely silent, but neither is the Intel stock unit. You can always buy a simple fan controller or volt mod (with care) the fan to run slower to keep noise down. The issue becomes moot if one considers overclocking as silent PCs and overclocking just don't go hand in hand.

    The fan size alone easily allows it to cool the VRMs. And as I noted earlier, a well ventilated case will also assist in cooling the VRM, especially if the case uses a 120mm exhaust fan at the rear.

    Also, read The Heatsink Guide.


    Umm...thanks there's some decent info there.

    @diselement, in addition to Doughbuy's comments, I would try removing the heatsink and re-install it after you've re-read the installation instructions to make sure it's seated properly. You did remove the thermal pad that was on the Intel stock heatsink before using the AS5, right? There's also updated instructions on the AS5 website about the proper method of applying their product on the C2D cpus.
  24. Media comp for your Barton......excellent idea Ray!

    The 6600 will work wonders for your tasking times, even at stock speeds!

    I have the Zalman 9500, it works just fine....I bought it quite some time ago and just reused it on this new rig.....but Anoobis is right that it is overpriced compared to other stuff on the market now......was cheap for me though to reuse it ;)

    A 6600 would allow you to add to your system later, improve the RAM and cooling, and OC it like a beast. You'll drool at how fast it cuts through your tasking work ;)
  25. Quote:
    the only reall problem i have is that even in simple idle moments my cpu runs at 85 C.

    That's quite scary ! Even with stock cooler and its original thermal pad, your CPU should run around 50°C on load. Your cooler mustn't be correctly seated. You should unmount it and install it again, making sure it is well in contact with the CPU's heatspreader.

    About AS5, I use it on my barton, and I saw that incorrectly applied AS5 can be worse than a crappy pink thermal pad. With the barton, the most efficient was to spread the AS5 on the core, to obtain a thin film of thermal paste. But if I remember well, the instructions for C2D are to place a line of AS5 on the CPU, and let the cooler spread it.
  26. Yeah, Arctic Silver has instructions on their webbie how best to use AS with dual core cpu's... You place a thin line vertically (with triangle at bottom left) and then put the heatsink on, rotate it clockwise a tiny bit to spread the AS, and then mount it... but don't take my word for it, check their webbie.
  27. here's the link to the AS5 instructions for Intel Dual Core CPUs
  28. ok when i put the as5 on i did what the site told me on the cpu, now when i got the heatsink with fan and the cpu the thermal paste was already on the heatsink. i have checked for the stuff u said i should take off and it doesnt look like there is anything on top of the heatsink. ive taken it out about 3 times and still runs at 85 C. i know readings arent wrong because i have used the boards core temp device and a program (coretemp). they both say the same thing. everyone says even if the heatsink isnt placed correctly that i shouldnt even be hitting close to 85 C. i feel over the cpu area and it does feel a lil warm, but im not totally sure wat 85 C feels like with my hand over it. i cant even play intense games just cuz im worried. i come out of a simple game like civilization, and core temp warns me with critical heat warnings (that scary)
  29. Dude, 85C is over 180F. Those are OVEN temperatures. Direct contact with that high a surface temperature would cause burns in under a second. Even diffused by the heat sink, you'd surely know if it was running that hot.

    I'm guessing the motherboard sensor is nuts.
  30. sorry i posted twice
  31. What is really strange is that you say your CPU is at 85°C idle... The fact is, if it really reaches this temp when idle, you can't even install Windows, because the mobo's overheating protection will shut down the PC as soon as your CPU gets loaded.

    A PC with a CPU at more than 80°C idle can't simply work... it will always shut down to prevent the CPU from frying.

    If your computer is working correctly, there must be a problem with your hardware monitoring. Check everyrhing in the bios..
    you can even try to set the overheating protection at 70°C... if your PC still runs, you'll be sure it isn't running so hot.
    Also try other monitoring software
  32. I have had several zalman fans and they are all quite easy to insall and work quite well.
  33. Yeah, like I said earlier, it must be your mobo because the chip itself would slow down to save its ass from being fried...

    And uh... 100C is boiling temp... so touch near boiling water, then touch the heatsink... if they're about equal, then you know its really 85C (Don't really touch near boiling water... just assume its really hot...)
  34. well wat do u suggest i use to measure core temp? also i have a 250 gig seagate 7200.10 but for some reason i only could partition 130 and it says i have only 130 total. any ideas?
  35. You need to install Service Pack 2 to fix your HD issue.

    When you remove the heatsink, you need to remove any thermal paste or pad material that's left over from both the top of the CPU and the bottom of the heatsink. Clean both with rubbing alcohol. Re-apply the AS5 following the website's instructions for your CPU. If you use too much it will act like an insulator, which is bad.

    Re-read the instructions on how to install the CPU heatsink. It sounds like you're not seating it correctly.
  36. ok well i dont really know what i did. i mean i do but i dont. i flipped one of my fans of the exterior of the case and for once more i removed the hsf, but this time instead i touched the thermal paste with my finger. i was goin to remove it but i could find rubbing alcohol so i just put the heatsink back on. i booted back up and ran coretemp and teh crap was reading low 50'S! its still high but way better than 85 heh. im goin to re-apply the thermal paste (even though i followed instructions on AS, i think i applied a lil to much), and i hope temps will drop to low 40's high 30's and then i can start my slight overclocking :D
  37. Wise move ;)

    Do the AS5 right and you will be rewarded.
  38. oh and also i currently have microsoft sp 2 and when i got back to setup it still shows that i can only partition a total of 132 gigs any ideas?
  39. Did you double check model # info printed on Seagate drive to make sure they didn't send you the wrong drive?
  40. nah def the 250 that i ordered. especially when everest and speedfan identify it as the 250 gig 7200.10 seagate i ordered. i really dont want to delete the partition i currently got (since i already set up some stuff), but if it needs to be done to pull out the other 120 gigs im owed then so be it!
  41. well, you can still try to partition your HD with Partition Magic or some other disk management utility...

    You can also check the jumpers on the drive, if they're positionned to limit drive capacity...

    and we're going off-topic again...
  42. what do u mean limit drive capacity? like if i use a diff sata cable it would work?
  43. I don't know if it still exists with Sata disks, but on most ATA drives, there is a jumper setting to limit the drive capacity, so that it can be detected by older motherboards that don't support large disks

    After verification, it seems this jumper doesn't exist on Seagate 7200.10 Sata drives. On PATA versions, there is a capacity limitation setting, but it limits the capacity to 32GB.

    So, you don't have to worry about that...

    I've already had a hard time trying to partition a 320GB disk...
    I started with a 120GB partition, on which I installed windows XP. Once windows has been installed and updated to supports disks larger than 128GB, I've been able to partition the remaining space, using Windows' computer management utility.
  44. ok i used the management utility and i found the missing space so im partitioning a second part thanx to all (even though my temps are still a lil high when im in idle i still run high 40's! :( ill re-apply thermal paste and cross my fingers so i can start overclocking!)
  45. 40°C is a normal temperature with the stock cooler, I think... but if you have a doubt, you can still take a look at your BIOS, just to make sure power saving features like speedstep is enabled, or if your mobo has something like Q-fan (that slows down CPU fan when possible, to keep your PC as quiet as possible) you can increase the minimum speed to get a better cooling...

    But you shouldn'tworry about a 40°C idle temperature, as long as it doesn't get very hot as soon as the CPU is on load.
  46. 40 C idle is just fine....perfectly normal.
  47. when i say 40's i mean like high 40's like at 47-48. i re-applied thermal paste and my temps jumped back to high 50's. this is kinda getting annoying but ill leave it be maybe its only the break in period thats why its so high. everytime i turn on my comp though it looks like it drop a lil hopefully itll keep on going. i think its that the snap in's on my fan are a lil messed up making the connection between the heatsink and fan a lil queer-ish. i might soon get a new cpu cooler and add 2 fans on the top of my case. then everything will be totally sweet.
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