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Holy Shutdowns, Batman!

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November 21, 2006 5:34:22 AM

Hi all!

I was playing America's Army 2.7 tonight when no more than 15 minutes into the game, my PC suddenly just shut off. No warning, no errors, just up and shut off. At first, I thought the power went out in my house, but it didn't. When I tried to turn it back on, it began it's startup for about 2 seconds, then shut off again. I tried again with the same results.

After waiting for about 5 minutes, I tried to reboot again. This time, my PC started up. I checked my mobo temps (34 C), my gpu temps (48 C), my CPU temps (37 C) and my hard drive temp (54 C). Noticing that they were all within normal limits, I gave AA another try. No more than 10 minutes in again, my PC shutdown.

Let me premise this by saying that I have had the PC for about 10 months, I built it myself and to this point have had very few problems. I did however have a video card issue recently and had to RMA my card to eVGA. I just got my new card about 5 days ago. I also recently purchased a Creative Vision:M mp3 player and installed some software specifically for this program yesterday. And lastly to note, I downloaded and installed Comodo Firewall....about a week before I RMA'd my GPU.

I have already opened her up to make sure all my connections are in place and secure. All check out.

I've done some googling on this and almost all posts say it's a heat issue, but I don't seem to be having any problems with heat. Even while playing America's Army.

I plan on contacting eVGA about this since it just started and my only logical thought is that the GPU is somehow involved, but maybe I'm wrong.

Any thoughts?

My specs:

Lian-Li PC61
ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe
AMD Athlon 3700+ San Diego (<---not overclocked, updated BIOS)
eVGA 7800GT
1GB Corsair Dual-Channel DDR
WD Carviar 300gb SATA 3.0gb/s
Samsung 17" 740N Monitor
480w Thermaltake Silent Purepower
Dr. Pepper

More about : holy shutdowns batman

November 21, 2006 5:45:08 AM

Few things for you...

One is possible heat.. after 5 mins or so things do cool down quite a bit and that might be why you were able to get it up and running..

As far as the GPU.. its possible but unlikely.. I would tilt more towards power problems.. check the volts on your PSU make sure they are are looking good :) 
November 21, 2006 5:53:14 AM

Okay, that sounds good. Now understand that although I built my own PC, I'm still a semi-noob. What exactly should I be looking for the my PSU voltages?
Related resources
November 21, 2006 5:57:06 AM

Umm if you can get into the bios.. would be the easiest preliminary check..

to be honest im not good at voltages either but in the bios I know theres a section that says like..

1.5v is... 1.523 or something like that... just try and check to see if your are matching somewhat close.. I beleive theres a give or take of like +/-.5 or some crap like that..

Im sure someone who knows more about voltages can elaborate here :) 
November 21, 2006 5:58:48 AM

great catch mp :)  ..

My guess now would be that your PSU is starting to tell you its gnna die.. seems like your putting a very stressfull load on the PSU.. meaning its gonna die eventually.. I wouldnt recommend saving it for another system..
November 21, 2006 10:08:57 AM

Quote:
Hi all!

I was playing America's Army 2.7 tonight when no more than 15 minutes into the game, my PC suddenly just shut off. No warning, no errors, just up and shut off. At first, I thought the power went out in my house, but it didn't. When I tried to turn it back on, it began it's startup for about 2 seconds, then shut off again. I tried again with the same results.

After waiting for about 5 minutes, I tried to reboot again. This time, my PC started up. I checked my mobo temps (34 C), my gpu temps (48 C), my CPU temps (37 C) and my hard drive temp (54 C). Noticing that they were all within normal limits, I gave AA another try. No more than 10 minutes in again, my PC shutdown.

Let me premise this by saying that I have had the PC for about 10 months, I built it myself and to this point have had very few problems. I did however have a video card issue recently and had to RMA my card to eVGA. I just got my new card about 5 days ago. I also recently purchased a Creative Vision:M mp3 player and installed some software specifically for this program yesterday. And lastly to note, I downloaded and installed Comodo Firewall....about a week before I RMA'd my GPU.

I have already opened her up to make sure all my connections are in place and secure. All check out.

I've done some googling on this and almost all posts say it's a heat issue, but I don't seem to be having any problems with heat. Even while playing America's Army.

I plan on contacting eVGA about this since it just started and my only logical thought is that the GPU is somehow involved, but maybe I'm wrong.

Any thoughts?

My specs:

Lian-Li PC61
ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe
AMD Athlon 3700+ San Diego (<---not overclocked, updated BIOS)
eVGA 7800GT
1GB Corsair Dual-Channel DDR
WD Carviar 300gb SATA 3.0gb/s
Samsung 17" 740N Monitor
480w Thermaltake Silent Purepower
Dr. Pepper


I am running basically the same cpu/mobo/non sli,, with a BFG 7600,now then,if you check the specs on the 7800 you might find that it is a power sucker,still you would think that 480 watts should do it ,mine is running 420
watts Enermax,and my cpu IS overclocked,slightly,..Is it possible that there is dirt/dust clogging your psu?? Can you TRY another psu ???
November 21, 2006 10:31:41 AM

While your at it, get some test on that cpu and ram to make sure it's not part of the problem. Get Orthos stress test and Memtest. You can find it anywhere like Majorgeeks.com.
November 21, 2006 2:44:42 PM

Just wanted to give you all an update. I was concerned that it may be a memory issue as well, so last night I downloaded and installed the Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool, which runs from a floppy boot disk on startup. I performed a standard test. During the first pass, test 6 of 11, the PC shutdown just as it had done during gaming.

Up to the shutdown, the tool showed that my memory had passed all tests. Does this in any way mean that my memory may be an issue?

Also, I downloaded and monitored my temps (CPU, MOBO, GPU, and HD) using HMonitor and PC Wizard 2006 while running America's Army 2.7 last night. The only temperatures that were even suspect came from my hard drive, 54C. All my other temps barely even broke 40C. The PC still shutdown within 10 minutes in.

I'm starting to think that you are all right on the PSU. Just to give you a quick little response to some of your comments, I had already cleaned out my PC thoroughly before installing the new video card that eVGA sent me for my RMA, so I don't think dust bunnies are the culprit here. I would love to try out someone else's power supply on my PC to see, unfortunately, I'm the only man in my neigborhood willing to build his own PC. The rest of these boys buy from Dell or Gateway or Compaq, etc. I guess I will just have to hit Newegg up for a new PSU. Does anyone have any suggestions? How are the Ultra-X PSU's??

Why was the PSU able to run my PC under heavy loads before (i.e. running F.E.A.R. without issues), but not now?
November 21, 2006 3:05:49 PM

Power Supplies can degrade over time (that explains it not happening until recently). Or, maybe your new video card uses more power than the old one? When choosing a PSU, you don't need a ton of watts (500 is probably plenty for your type of setup). The most important thing is the amount of amps on the 12V rails that it can put out. What video card are you using? It may be asking for more than the PSU can supply.
November 21, 2006 3:17:34 PM

Toasty, thank you for the reply. Please look at my original post for my system specs. I had listed them all to start the thread.

After reading all your comments and the PSU101 thread, I'm looking at getting one of the following PSU's. Your comments are appreciated before I buy:

Antec NeoPower 550w (triple +12v@18amps) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E1681...

Corsair HX520w ATX12v (<----whats the difference between ATX and ATX12v?) (triple +12v@18amps) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E1681...
November 21, 2006 3:42:37 PM

I'm not saying your PSU is the problem, but I can say that if it's working correctly it's MORE than adequate for your setup as I have the same PSU with a more demanding system... I have the same motherboard with an AMD X2-4400 OC'd to 2.6 along with a 7800 GTX... I agree that heat could be an issue either for your video card or your CPU. You've got a good brand name case, but you don't mention anything about your fan setup... on an older case just adding a single intake fan on the front made a moderate difference in my temps... and that was a simple $10 upgrade.

If you're able to use your system to do normal tasks for extended periods of time you should definitely be looking at heat and possibly your PSU (again, you've got PLENTY of watts for what you're doing... it could just be operating below its ratings)
November 21, 2006 3:48:29 PM

My case is the Lian-Li PC61. It has two intake fans in the front of the case, one fan on top of the case, and one additional fan in the back of the case. All four run perfectly and are not shutting down when the PC hits high loads.

If it's operating below its ratings does that make it a bum PSU or is there something I can do to fix that?
November 21, 2006 4:26:23 PM

Plenty of air flow so all signs point to your PSU. That particular model has been on the market for a while I believe so it could be pushing 3 years old.

I had a faulty PSU once and god did it cause me headaches... just random crap happening all of the time on my rig... it was just blind luck that I had a spare PSU in my closet (don't ask!) and I swapped it out just for the hell of it. That PC (a dated P3-800) is still in use to this day with the 2nd power supply.
November 21, 2006 4:34:39 PM

Sure it's possible that it's that old, but I've only owned mine for about 10 months. After reading several reviews of that Antec, I'm thinking of going in another direction. There appears to be a known issue with that PSU and NForce4 boards, so I'm continuing to look around. Seasonic and Enermax appear to be very reliable manufacturers so I'm looking there.

Am I better off with dual +12v rails or triple +12v rails? I will be upgrading parts of PC in the future, obviously maybe a new video card (DX10 compliant) and a bump up to 2gigs of RAM, and maybe an additional hard drive, so I'm going to need something to power all that.
November 21, 2006 5:00:31 PM

The 8800 GTX requires a PSU capable of pushing 30 amps on the 12 volt rails... to come up with this number, you simply add the amps from each 12 volt rail (so says people smarter than I)

If you have the PSU I have, you have ZERO chance of powering up an 8800 GTX... I just can't see the requirements in the future going much higher than this as each 12 volt rail is limited to 20 amps per ATX specifications.
November 21, 2006 5:14:07 PM

If there is one thing I've learned from trolling all the boards while working on my new system, it's that the PSU is the most overlooked part of a new build.
November 21, 2006 7:02:39 PM

Well I went ahead and placed an order with newegg. After some serious researching, I decided to get the Seasonic M12 700w PSU, but unfortunately Newegg was out of stock and TigerDirect didn't offer it. So I went with Corsair's HX520 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E1681...). It scored really well against competitors and has more than enough juice for my rig, plus triple +12v@18amps. I hope I'm not disappointed.

I've also contacted Thermaltake about my current PSU, since I believe it's still under warranty.
November 21, 2006 8:27:43 PM

If your find that it is too much for pc consider resale.
i would hit up local welding supply house :D 
November 21, 2006 8:30:48 PM

I don't follow you? What do you mean, too much for PC?
November 21, 2006 8:35:43 PM

It was a joke brother. like you had enough power to weld :lol: 
November 21, 2006 8:39:08 PM

Lol..okay, sorry...I'm just frustrated as hell, I haven't been able to use my comp for about a week and half (vid card issues, and now this).
November 21, 2006 9:42:00 PM

Quote:
Im sure someone who knows more about voltages can elaborate here :) 


If you wanna do it in the OS, use a program called speedfan.exe. Its a great program that has many features, one of which is voltage monitoring on all voltages.

All the voltages should be within 5% of what they should be. +12v should be within .24 volts of 12 volts. The same is true for the +5 and +3.3v rails. The - rails are a bit less necessary, as they will show much lower voltages. Don't be alarmed, its normal.

TBH, it seems like others have said that you need one with more juice. The 520 you are looking at should do the trick.
November 21, 2006 10:04:14 PM

That's what I'm talking about...some cold hard facts! Yes, thank you! I'm at work right now, but I remember looking at the voltages for my PSU last night and the +12v rail being something like 11.34v or right around there. All the others looked to be just above by miniscule amount.

So this could be the problem, huh? Nothing I can do about that?
November 21, 2006 10:44:30 PM

Quote:
If you wanna do it in the OS, use a program called speedfan.exe.

I'm not sure, but one of the features which you may find useful is having Speedfan create a log of the temperatures and voltages. Speedfan can dump the readings you select to a text file approximately every 3 seconds. Possibly useful thing if you wish to see what your readings were just before the system took a turn for the worse.

Not sure if a link was provided to the programs webpage, so here it is in case you want it.
http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

-john
November 21, 2006 10:47:30 PM

Dude: 54 C temp on your HDD is so freaking hot that your drive is going to fail soon; your are cooking it fast.

HDDs are the most intolerant of high temperatures, of any PC component. They should remain under 40C at all times, and preferably, be right behind your inlet fans, so they never exceed 30C!

That is your most important fix - COOL THE HDD!
November 21, 2006 10:48:26 PM

Every 3 seconds is perfect. I'll install and run that tonight. That should be helpful. I appreciate the scoop! I'll have an update for you all later on tonight with the voltage and temp numbers.
November 21, 2006 10:51:04 PM

Mobius,

I thought that was supicious, but the specs say that it operates up to 55C. I have two intake fans on the front of my case that blow right over it, so I'm not sure why it's running so hot.
November 21, 2006 11:01:47 PM

Quote:
I remember looking at the voltages for my PSU last night and the +12v rail being something like 11.34v or right around there.

I hope you are remembering it wrong. If I'm doing the arithmetic correctly, 11.34 is -5.5% of 12 volts. That seems very low compared to what I see with my PSU (which is nothing special). Speedfan says my (single) 12v rail bounces between a low of 11.98 and a high of 12.16.

Quote:
So this could be the problem, huh? Nothing I can do about that?

Uh, get a better PSU? (I thought you were already doing that?)

-john
November 21, 2006 11:06:45 PM

I am. I already order the new PSU, but if I have more than one problem (i.e. the hard drive temp), I need to figure that out as well. If the hard drive overheats, would the system completely shut down without a moments notice?

I'm fairly positive about the voltage being around 11.34. I'll confirm that in about an hour when I get home.
November 21, 2006 11:12:01 PM

Speed fan has SMART testing too. Might as well check the drive with that.
November 21, 2006 11:26:00 PM

Quote:
Not sure if a link was provided to the programs webpage, so here it is in case you want it.


Sorry about that, forgot to do put one down... :oops: 
November 21, 2006 11:40:53 PM

Quote:
If the hard drive overheats, would the system completely shut down without a moments notice?


No, if the hard drive overheats, nothing happens to the system as its running. Problem is it GREATLY reduces the lifetime of the drive, especially over extended periods. It could cause general slowness of the system, but not all-of-a-sudden crashes in my experience. That was likely a too far power fluctuation, likely too low, and the processor having to then reset itself, in turn, resetting every component, causing the reboot you then saw. The continued instability was caused by the overheating PSU not supplying enough power when it was needed, causing the system to continue resetting. After the five minute rest the PSU cooled enough to be able to power your system properly.

If you wanted to do something about it, you could try to modify the cooling of the PSU, but if the PSU has as little overhead for your system as to cause it to crash when it starts to overheat, you definitely need one with more juice. This one just isn't cutting it, no matter what it says its rated for. I've seen several articles describing whats going on here, I'll look for one here on toms here in a little bit.

To cool the drives, you could do a couple of things. On my case, the front fans are right in front of the hard disks. Problem was, the cutouts for the fans were really resistive, so there was much less air flowing than was possible. When I realized this, I removed the screens (had to cut them out :? ) and airflow doubled through that area. I don't have any temperature numbers relating directly to that, because I rewired my case at the same time, but the total temperature drop from that in the hard disk area was anywhere between 5-15 degrees C (depending on what sensor I'm using...)

Another thing you could do is get a hard disk cooler. There are many around, here are some. I have one on my warmer drive, and even though I haven't used it without one, I wouldn't risk it, as I like to take care of my drives, and anything that may just possibly make it all run a bit cooler is a good deal to me.

And yes, 11.34 volts is WAY out of spec. You want to use that PSU as little as possible. Its gonna undervolt the system, causing what is effectively a brown-out in the system, causing much more wear on the system than is recommended.
November 22, 2006 1:28:31 AM

Okay, as promised. I've run Speedfan, PC Wizard 2006, and HMonitor.

Speedfan (click for screenshot of program running):
http://www.djdomonline.com/Speedfan.jpg

PC Wizard 2006 (click below for screenshot of program running):
http://www.djdomonline.com/PCWizard2006.jpg

HMonitor (click below for screenshot of program running):
http://www.djdomonline.com/HMonitor.jpg

With speedfan, I don't know what Temp is showing 125C. I think that must be something not functioning. As you can see the hard drive is running very hot.

I want to direct you to the PC Wizard 2006 screen as it shows the +12v rail at 11.37v. The others show around 11.90v. As of tonight, the PC started shutting down while doing nothing laborious at all. Just having the PC for longer than 20 minutes doing nothing appears to make it shutdown.

Anyone have any other possible scenarios?
November 22, 2006 3:44:46 AM

Another update:

Wow...how things have changed. I went inside my PC again tonight, moved some cords around getting them out of the way and off of anything they might be touching. Rebooted, ran Windows Memory Diagnostic all the way through 6 passes without a hiccup. Started up normally, watched my temps, only one suspect, still the hard drive.

I figured, what the hell...I downloaded Orthos, ran the CPU stress test for 2 hours straight with no shutdowns, no hangups, nothing. My CPU temp didn't even break 36C. My mobo reach 46C and my hard drive sat at 52C. I've been on for about 2 hours straight now without an issue.

Not sure what I did, but I'm happy. I'll be trying gaming here shortly to see if that has any affect on the current status.
November 22, 2006 2:09:13 PM

Okay, now I'm starting to wonder what could have happened to my PC. I've been running Orthos Stress Test on my memory and my CPU for over 9 hours straight. I tried gaming last night for about an hour and half. I haven't had any problems. My CPU never exceeded 47C during the first 8 hours of the stress test. I've left it running and come into work today, so if I get home and it's still running tonight, it will have been running for around 17-18 hours straight.

Is it possible that I had a wire in my case touching something that it shouldn't have been? Could that knock the system out?
November 22, 2006 2:27:58 PM

You probably had REALLY bad airflow around in the system. When you rewired it, it probably solved the problem. This would cause overall temperatures to decrease and so make the power supply (along with everything else) to not overheat as much.

You dodged a bullet there, my friend. We all recommended a new PSU, when in fact it was just how the case was setup that was causing that last final push. However, even though the system is not crashing, those temps are really high. I'll put them Farenheit to put them in perspective (for those of us who use F for the weather and such):

36C=96.8F
46C=114.8F
52C=125.6F

By contrast, these are my temps:
Mobo: 26C
CPU: 31C
HD: 23C
Granted, this is at idle, but ive never seen any of them over 35, and thats with the stock cooler on my cpu and mobo.

You really should do something to mediate your temps in your case. Those high temperatures are gonna cause lots of wear, and in the case of the HD, premature failure. Really try to visualize the way the air is flowing around in your case, try to make it flow as quickly as possible and with as little turbulence as possible. Take your time. It may be back-breaking, maybe even BORING, but your computer will love you for it.
November 22, 2006 2:36:56 PM

Good point. Well I've got the new PSU on the way still. No sense in not using it. It should help with the airflow since it has a modular cable system, I'll only have to use what I need. I'm thinking of getting some stuff from Frozencpu.com to help coll things down a bit inside the case, specifically the hard drive and CPU. Not sure what works best though since this will be my first time venturing out into the world of "cooling." Any recommendations would be helpful.

Thanks again everyone!
November 22, 2006 3:03:55 PM

I don't have any recommendations to any specific product, but I have some things to keep in mind:

Higher airflow fans will provide more cooling power. Problem is, higher airflow means more noise. If you aren't too worried about noise, go for as high as you can get, just make sure that the db rating is below 40, as above that, they get unbearably loud.

120mm fans will provide more cooling than 80mm fans and more airflow to boot (sometimes double/triple). The only problem is, they are huge. 120mm is approximately 4.5 inches, so make sure to measure any fan places you have to make sure its supported.

120mm CPU coolers are generally the best, providing more cooling/db than any other size and they can help airflow in your case a bit. But, again, they are huge. Remember when you are looking at pictures of them that the fan is 4.5 inches across.

HD coolers are kinda wierd, they often can't be evaluated too well by just looking at them. Generally the ones with two fans will be louder than the ones with just one fan. I have one of the two fan ones, and one failed on me, and a very noticeable noise coming from my case the entire time it was in there was coming from those two fans.

The HD cooler is a place where 120mm is not really an option. A 120mm "HD cooler" is offered at Newegg, but you have to mount your hard disks inside the 5.25 bays for it to work.

Keep in mind, when selecting parts, the fans that look "clear" generally actually have LED lights inside of them, making them light up like a Christmas tree. Whether thats good or bad is up to you, but remember: when you're trying to sleep, those lights will be REALLY bright. That applies, of course, only if you keep it in your bedroom.

Good luck!
November 22, 2006 4:14:19 PM

Quote:
I'm thinking of getting some stuff from Frozencpu.com to help coll things down a bit inside the case, specifically the hard drive and CPU. Not sure what works best though since this will be my first time venturing out into the world of "cooling." Any recommendations would be helpful.

Well, the first thing I'd suggest is taking at least one, maybe several, pictures of the inside of your case and posting them here so folks can have a look at what sort of case setup/congestion you're dealing with. Perhaps getting a new case might be the best way to go ... hard to say without knowing what you've got.

But if you take and post some pictures, I'm sure you'll get more useful feedback. It's worth a thousand words, et cetera, et cetera ... :wink:

And for pity's sake do a touch test on that hard drive to sanity check whether it's really burning up or if it's just a bad sensor (unlikely, but possible, I suppose). But whatever you do, make sure it runs cooler. Over 50C is just freakishly hot! It makes no sense what-so-ever. (I was completely freaked when my HD temps once touched 40C).

-john, the redundant legacy dinosaur
November 22, 2006 4:25:26 PM

great title :lol: 
November 22, 2006 4:39:15 PM

It actually occurred to me to go back to your OP and see if you said what type of case you have. :oops:  Is this it?
LIAN LI PC-61 USB Black Aluminum ATX Mid Tower

If so, ...
newegg specs say this case has 4x 80mm fans? Does it? Have you checked to make sure they are all working? Are the fans pushing air in the right direction ... into the case for the front 2x and outward for the rear and top fans?

It were me, I'd also take off the front cover and check that the air intake for the front 2x 80mm fans is not clogged with heaping gobs of dust. (It's easy to forget that this area needs to be cleaned periodically).

If your HD is sitting smack dab in the middle of the air from those two front intake fans, I can't see any reason why it would have 50C temps. :? :( 

-john
November 22, 2006 4:58:38 PM

Yes, it is the Lian-li PC61 and it has 4 fans, two 80mm on the front for intake. All the fans are working and dust isn't an issue as I clean out my PC thoroughly on a bi-weekly basis. The two intake fans take the air directly into the hard drive which is positioned right behind them in the bottom of the cage. It originally was in the top of the cage, but I moved it last night... and the temp appears to have dropped 2C. I did a touch test last night on the hard drive and it sure as heck didn't feel hot to me. I take showers hotter than that thing felt, so I'm surprised to find out that it's stating 52C (or 125F for most of us American's).

I'm thinking it may be showing incorrect temp, but who knows. The intake fans may be facing the wrong way...I don't know, I'll have to scope that out, because this case should be alot cooler I think. My CPU idle's at around 36C and gets to 46-48C during torture tests, as I stated above during the one I performed last night.

When I get home tonight, I'll snap some photos of the interior of the case and post them here for any help. If I do decide to purchase new case fans, I don't think that 120mm fans will fit in the front for intake. I wanted to set my fans on 100% last night, but my mobo/BIOS doesn't allow me to set the speeds. QFan Controller is disabled. Any thoughts on how I might be able to do that?
November 22, 2006 5:13:59 PM

Quote:
dust isn't an issue as I clean out my PC thoroughly on a bi-weekly basis.

So when you clean the PC you take off the front cover and also clean off the fan intake covers?
(Sorry. :oops:  I'm grasping at straws here as I am totally out of ideas).
November 22, 2006 6:50:48 PM

Yeppers! I always pull off the front covers and clean off the intake fans and covers. I do a real good job of cleaning because I know how important it is.
November 22, 2006 9:42:16 PM

Okay, just got home. Orthos Stress Test still running. 17 hours straight, no errors, no warnings. That's a good sign right? Hard Drive temp down to 50C according to all the progs (Speedfa, HMonitor, PC Wizard 2006)...don't know how or why.

I opened her up, the two intake fans are blowing right on the hard drive and are blowing a ton of air. The hard drive is freaking cold to the touch. There is no way this thing is really running at 50-54C.

Makes me wonder if the other temps are off as well.
November 22, 2006 10:11:53 PM

They may be. Try to see what the temps are for real with a thermometer or something. Interesting point: the bottom of the drive generally is warmer than the top. You may want to keep that in mind when you are testing the correct temps.

Yes, it is possible that the temps are being reported incorrectly, but the only way to know is to test the actual temperature with a thermometer that you know works. Then you'll have your results.
November 22, 2006 10:48:28 PM

That really is strange with the HD. With my setup, the 3 drives in the drive cage are at ~30c +/-5, and the other drives never go above 38c.

Like others have suggested, try measuring the temps manually by using a thermometer or something of the like.

Possibly try re-wiring the case again to get better airflow?

HTH.
November 23, 2006 12:27:59 AM

Touched the bottom of the hard drive and it sure as heck doesn' feel hot, warm at best, but 125F...no way. I'll have to get a thermometer.
November 30, 2006 10:42:29 PM

I just wanted to give everyone who helped me an update. I got the Corsair HX520w Power Supply and I also bought a sound blaster X-fi XtremeMusic. I am in pig heaven. The new power supply is about 30 times quieter than my old 480w Thermaltake Silent Purepower. When I started up my PC I had to open the case to make sure it's fan was running it's so quiet. I'm really happy and while I may never know the cause of my random shutdowns, I happy to say that all is well now.

The hard drivce still shows that it's running at around 52C, but I'm still working with Western Digital on that one. Anyone know where I can get an external temperature sensor for this thing?? I may end up having to RMA it if these temps don't come down, but I think Western Digital will fight it since their already saying that 52C is within it's normal operating temps.
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