Core2Duo Build gone wrong!

TurdBurglar

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I have just assembled a new Core2Duo build and have experienced two major problems right off the bat. First here are the components:

e6300
Gigabyte DS3
FSP 500W PSU
2gb Corsair DDR675
HIS X1950Pro IceQ
Seagate 320gb HDD

First problem is that in SpeedFan, Core1 and Core2 show different voltages! One core reports 1.17V. The other reports 1.89V. This cannot be normal. What do I do?

Also, the CPU fan seems to be cutting out at different times. This might explain the somewhat high idle temps I'm getting of around 40 degrees. I'm using the retail heatsink and fan with Arctic Silver 5.

I have tested a different power supply unit in the system to see if it was responsible for the bad voltages, but I got the same result.

Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated. The only thing I can think to do is replace the CPU heatsink and fan, but that does nothing to remedy the voltage problem. Could a bad motherboard be the culprit?
 

TurdBurglar

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I just checked what SpeedFan would read the vcores to be on the system in my sig and saw it lists one for each core even though there is only one. That leads me to ask... Is SpeedFan a reliable voltage monitor?
 

mad-dog

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No, you have to take software based voltage monitors with a grain of salt, compare 4 different voltage monitoring programs and you'll get 4 different readings
 

Wgfalcon

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i may be, and often am, wrong but i believe you have to load your mb specific profile in order for speed fan to work properly.check your voltages in the bios so you have something to compare your readings too. as for the fans there should be a bios setting for them. in my case i can set it to smart fans which turn off on speed up and slow down or always on which is my choice
 

TurdBurglar

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I'll try loading the specific MB in Speedfan. The other problem is that the CPU heatsink fan is the only one that is cutting out. I'd prefer not to spend $50 on an aftermarket cooling solution.
 

TurdBurglar

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It now appears that the CPU/heatsink fan is faulty as it will not come on at all. Looks like I need an aftermarket cooler. Any suggestions on a comparable one to the retail version. I'd prefer to spend as little as possible to get a solid cooler. I will be overclocking eventually, but I was told the retail heatsink/fan was sufficient for 2.8 to 3.0ghz in most cases. That's what I am after. Any suggestions?
 

TurdBurglar

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I was looking at the Zalman CNPS7700AlCu, but I can't find that it's compatible with the Gigabyte 965P-DS3 motherboard anywhere on the Zalman site. Does anyone know?
 

TurdBurglar

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The design of this CPU cooler dictates that there be enough space surrounding the CPU to accomodate it. Zalman has a list of compatible motherboards on its site, but the DS3 is not listed.
 

tool_462

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If you are looking for a low priced air cooler, stay as far away from Zalman as you can.

Look into the Scythe Ninja or Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. I highly recommend the Arctic Cooling and others on the forum will also. It is the best cooler for the price.
 

Wgfalcon

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i have the AC Freezer 64 Pro which is the same just compatable with am2 and it works great and is only a little heavier than stock cooling
 

avarice

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I agree - the AC-7 is both inexpensive and effective. I am surprised they don't charge more for it.

I have a Zalman in my P4-Prescott coffee warmer - it works pretty good as the stock HS kept my coffee too hot.

Cheers.
 

The_OGS

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It now appears that the CPU/heatsink fan is faulty as it will not come on at all.
C'mon burglar - have you figured it out yet?
The Speedfan setup in BIOS determines control of the 4-wire CPU fan.
The idea is, you want the CPU to maintain as constant a temperature as possible - this is why the fan shuts down and you think your idle temps are high. It wants your idle temp high, to minimize the difference between idle and full load temps...
A good example is a motorcycle. Air-cooled bikes get very hot and then cool, through a big temperature range - this causes large problems for the engine designers and limits horsepower.
Liquid-cooled bikes on the other hand heat up rapidly to their operating temp and then remain in a very narrow temperature range, whether idle or being flogged. This relative lack of extreme temps and associated expansion/contraction make the design much 'safer' and help prolong the longevity of the motor...
Intel and Gigabyte, by controlling your CPU temp, are trying to make your rig more like the liquid-cooled motorcycle, y'know?
It is the same for vidcards - you don't want them too cold at idle.
Anyway, you can disable that stuff in BIOS. Have you been through your BIOS setup carefully, item by item? Everything must be perfect.
Also, from within Windows you can select power management 'Always On' or else 'Minimal Power Management' which will respectively disable or enable Intel SpeedStep CPU throttling and voltage control, so you could leave that enabled in BIOS.
Don't worry, there is only 1 CPU socket - so both cores are surely getting the same voltage.
The stock Core2 CPU fan is excellent and is carefully designed to move a lot of air around the CPU on the mobo (to keep mobo components in airflow).
But it seems like the 4-pin fan design is new to you (me too :^) but it's all normal,
Regards
 

TurdBurglar

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That makes sense, but the CPU fan should never be off should it? Also, my temps seem to be higher than others with the same hardware. I also get an error in prime95 fairly quickly. It says: rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4. Consult stress.txt file.
 

JackM

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TurdB, I know you want to save a few bucks, but in the long run, you may be better off to fork out the extra dough for a good, cheap water cooling solution.

Remember that while a fan may keep your temps within reason once you start overclocking, noise will become more of a factor. If you don't care, then forget what I said. Even so, you may start teetering on temp border and may end up seeing more BSODs. If your house is cool in the winter and warmer in the summer, that might tip the balance, too. Something to think about.

If you upgrade later on, you can reuse the watercooling solution and save even more in the long run. If you drop $50 on a fan and find out you need better, then that $50 is money wasted.

Thermaltake's Big Water package can be found for less than $120 and does a very good job of cooling quietly. Just my two cents.
 

TurdBurglar

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I don't think I'll be going the watercooling route. Reasonable temps can be achieved with air and it's much simpler. Fan noise is not an issue either. Just personal preference.
 

MacMarauder

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I like the Zalman 9500 more than the 7nnn version..it's got better reviews as well....


Look at the Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7...cheap, easy to install (uses the stock mechanism) and works well.....or so i'm told by many, many people in this forum..
 

AMDThunder

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I like the Zalman 9500 more than the 7nnn version..it's got better reviews as well....


Look at the Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7...cheap, easy to install (uses the stock mechanism) and works well.....or so i'm told by many, many people in this forum..
Guys, not to be a dick, but please read the responses. I know there's a bunch sometimes, but the OP said a couple of posts ago that he ordered the Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro.

Not digging at you, MacMarauder. I see it several times a day. :)
 

TurdBurglar

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Yeah, the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro is on the way already guys.

On another note, any clue as to what would cause the Prime95 rounding error? From what I can tell from Googling it, it usually points to CPU or memory problems.
 

ranger90

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Yeah, the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro is on the way already guys.

On another note, any clue as to what would cause the Prime95 rounding error? From what I can tell from Googling it, it usually points to CPU or memory problems.

I don't know.. But I've heard stories where builders don't quite get the heatsink properly seated on the CPU. Causing eratic behavior. Some of which sounds like the original post.

It's the simplest thing, and I mean no insult to anyone's building skills. But I'd look at that first....