Power supply supplying even if off?

[Bluebard]

This may sound odd, but when I turned my computer off last night, I saw the mouse's LED was still on. I actually disconnected the mouse from the case to get it to turn off.

I'm wondering, is this the PSU that's doing this or maybe something with the motherboard? My power supply has its own on/off switch, though I left that on the On position.

My PSU is a COOLER MASTER Real Power RS-450-ACLY ATX12V 450W.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817171001

My motherboard is a GIGABYTE GA-965P-DS3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813128012

Any thoughts?

 

[CompuTronix]

When computer power supply, case, and motherboard architecture standards changed (around 1999 if I recall correctly) from "AT" (when "Off" still meant "Off") to "ATX" (when "Off" became "Standby") some of us questioned the wisdom of this transposition.

Hopefully your rig isn't plugged straight into the wall, and is instead fed from a UPS, or at least a surge suppressor power strip. As a work-around solution, use the "On" / "Off" switch on one of those devices to power "Off" your system.

Hope this helps. Enjoy

 

[RyanMicah]

Just a guess, is it a Razer mouse? They have $hitty drivers. When they work, they work great, but when they don't it's a real pain. Could be bios problem though. My copperheads have issues with the USB ports as well. I assure you it's normal. On turning on your computer the mouse may not work, just unplug it from it's USB port and plug it back in. Let me know if the Razer software doesn't recognize your mouse, especially if you plug it into a new port.

 

[RyanMicah]

Mine does it intermittently. It usually shuts down, but on occassion it likes to stay lit, and then doesn't work on reboot. I think it has a conflict of drivers with my G15 LCD driver. Just a hunch.

 

[jaguarskx]

There isn't a problem with the mouse. If the mouse has LEDs and is plugged into a USB port then it will stay lit after the system is shut off. No big deal.

Not all optical mice stays lit when the PC is off.

 

[RyanMicah]

Umm...? Oh. Exactly. My Razer Copperheads shut off when power off. The USB ports are obviously still powered when I shut down, as once in awhile they stay on. But if the mice fail to work on boot up when they're pre-lit there's an issue somewhere.

 

[SciPunk]

Yeah, two stages of "off". Once you shutdown cleanly from the opperating system, and all the fans stop whirring, you can flip the switch on the power supply itself to totally kill the power.

 

[RyanMicah]

Really? Wow, you are oh-so-informed great one...I could go into the basement and flip the breaker too, but that doesn't solve my driver issue now does it?

 

[elpresidente2075]

Well, when the processor is not functioning, no drivers are loaded. When the computer is "shut off" there is nothing in the ram, the processor is not powered, the hard disks are not functioning, and there is no need for cooling. There is not a driver conflict when your computer is turned off. There is only a driver conflict when windows loads, as thats when the drivers get loaded.

In fact, the only things that are powered when the system is off are the usb ports (for a keyboard wake-up), the pci bus (for wake-on-lan), the bios clock (to keep time), and the power button sensors (for normal wake up). The fact that your mouse only intermittently stays lit means you have a crappy motherboard that doesn't do the same thing constantly. Perhaps you should get a new one of those.

Oh, and mouse drivers don't conflict with LCD drivers because there's no resource sharing between the two. That is, of course, unless your LCD is running off a usb port, or your mouse is running off a DVI port. :roll:

@OP: Your situation is normal. If you think the light is annoying, just do the manual turn off as others have mentioned, or get a thick, dark colored cloth and just lay it over your mouse at night. The light goes away, and the system still has its power that it wants/needs. I solved a problem with my PDA that way. It worked wonders. Good luck.

 

[gm0n3y]

I've got a Razer Diamondback and it is annoying that it sometimes doesn't work when booting. It wouldn't be a big deal, but my PC is under my desk and its a bitch to get down there and unplug/replug the USB cable. I have been considering plugging it into one of my front USB ports.

 

[SciPunk]

Really? Wow, you are oh-so-informed great one...I could go into the basement and flip the breaker too, but that doesn't solve my driver issue now does it?

I wasn't replying you your post, numb-nuts. I was replying to the original post.

As you should know by now, you don't have a driver issue becuase this problem of yours occurs when there is no OS running.

 

[RyanMicah]

Odd, earlier when I read it it said it was a response to me. Hmm. Numbnuts? It's a USB driver issue, standard USB drivers are loaded before the OS by the bios so it can do things like wake on lan, and supply your keyboard with basic functions to enter bios.

 

[elpresidente2075]

Standard = no problems. That is, unless you have a faulty piece of equipment

 

[RyanMicah]

Standard = no problems. That is, unless you have a faulty piece of equipment

That's kind of my point. I think Razer still has some bugs. I have two of the same mice and two different mobo's. Both have issues with installing and connecting to different USB ports. My mice are only recognized at the USB address that I install them on. What with the light staying on, the firmware updates, and the cold boots, I still recommend their mice, as they're so lightweight and fluid. But it makes it more difficult to recommend them as the only mouse to consider. The feel of Razer mice are simply the best, and if you can get them to work perfectly then all the power to ya. That said, mine have somehow gotten better. Turning off legacy USB support may've helped, or simply my last install of windows had an effect. Maybe it was fixed in a firmware update, I don't know. I haven't noticed a cold boot in awhile.

I wanted to know if he had the same mouse so I could recommend downloading the firmware update and updating his bios, and turning of legacy USB support. Did you get that OP?

 

[techgeek]

This may sound odd, but when I turned my computer off last night, I saw the mouse's LED was still on. I actually disconnected the mouse from the case to get it to turn off.

I'm wondering, is this the PSU that's doing this or maybe something with the motherboard? My power supply has its own on/off switch, though I left that on the On position.

My PSU is a COOLER MASTER Real Power RS-450-ACLY ATX12V 450W.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817171001

My motherboard is a GIGABYTE GA-965P-DS3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813128012

Any thoughts?

The ATX specs require a 5V Standby often labelled as 5VSB. This supplies the motherboard with 5V even when the computer is "off", as long as the power switch (if you have one) on the back of the supply is on, and it's plugged in. The main purpose for this supply is to accomodate the Wake on "XXXX" features and other ACPI or APM features.

 

[elpresidente2075]

All I know is, every piece of hardware I have used has worked right out of the box, be it mice, memory, cpu's, hard disks, motherboards, etc, and I have been at it for nearly 10 years.

If ever I had a piece of hardware come in that had a problem like that, I would just scrap it and get something that just works. Sure, something like that is pretty cool, but hot rods often have a hard time in cold weather too. I guess I value reliability over a marginal (or even pointlessly significant) speed increase.

But since this is an enthusiast forum, everyone should do what they think is the "best" and get what would pwnzor anyone they see, as that's the spirit of this place.

Two things interesting of note:
First: The "best" mouse around needs firmware upgrades/hacks to make it work properly
Second: Nowhere did the OP say anything about a Razer.

Just interesting, thats all..

 

[RyanMicah]

This may sound odd, but when I turned my computer off last night, I saw the mouse's LED was still on. I actually disconnected the mouse from the case to get it to turn off.

I'm wondering, is this the PSU that's doing this or maybe something with the motherboard? My power supply has its own on/off switch, though I left that on the On position.

My PSU is a COOLER MASTER Real Power RS-450-ACLY ATX12V 450W.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817171001

My motherboard is a GIGABYTE GA-965P-DS3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16813128012

Any thoughts?

The ATX specs require a 5V Standby often labelled as 5VSB. This supplies the motherboard with 5V even when the computer is "off", as long as the power switch (if you have one) on the back of the supply is on, and it's plugged in. The main purpose for this supply is to accomodate the Wake on "XXXX" features and other ACPI or APM features.

Such as charging your blackberry, etc... :-D

 

[RyanMicah]

All I know is, every piece of hardware I have used has worked right out of the box, be it mice, memory, cpu's, hard disks, motherboards, etc, and I have been at it for nearly 10 years.

If ever I had a piece of hardware come in that had a problem like that, I would just scrap it and get something that just works. Sure, something like that is pretty cool, but hot rods often have a hard time in cold weather too. I guess I value reliability over a marginal (or even pointlessly significant) speed increase.

But since this is an enthusiast forum, everyone should do what they think is the "best" and get what would pwnzor anyone they see, as that's the spirit of this place.

Two things interesting of note:
First: The "best" mouse around needs firmware upgrades/hacks to make it work properly
Second: Nowhere did the OP say anything about a Razer.

Just interesting, thats all..

Ugh, why is everyone on these forums a complete numbskull. I ASKED him if he had a Razer, still waiting for a reply. And the "best" mouse is one that you're comfortable with, I never mentioned anything about speed. Quit putting words on my fingertips.

 

[elpresidente2075]

Now you're putting words on my fingertips. I only observed that he hadn't mentioned a Razer. Also, the Razer is considered by many as the "best." On both counts I was making observations that were independent of you. Perhaps you need some time for self-reflection on your numbskull statement.

 

[RyanMicah]

Nope. Crystal clear. Thanks for reaffirming it. Everything you said was purely argumentative. Your words hold no meaning. Ignored.

 

[elpresidente2075]

Great job of ignoring me, duma$$

 

[croc]

Have you tried changing you power scheme?

I have mine set to 'Off' means off. Not standby, sleep, etc.

Look in your 'control panel' 'power options' and set according to your needs.

When I power down everything powers down. (Verified by my amp meter...) My LCD still draws a few mils from my UPS, but nothing to worry about.

 

[techgeek]

Have you tried changing you power scheme?

I have mine set to 'Off' means off. Not standby, sleep, etc.

Look in your 'control panel' 'power options' and set according to your needs.

When I power down everything powers down. (Verified by my amp meter...) My LCD still draws a few mils from my UPS, but nothing to worry about.

Like I said above, unless you unplug your computer, or switch off the switch on the PSU, that 5VSB is going to be there. It's built into the power supply, it has nothing to do with the Control Panel, or BIOS, it's included in the ATX spec's.

 

[croc]

Damn... Better RMA the Fluke amprobe... Its giving me false readings.

 

[Bluebard]

I've been away, but I am back. Sounds kind of strange, but I suppose if it's the standard, there's nothing to be done... I did flip off the PSU and that works, but I'm not looking forward to doing that every time...

Right now I got my old and new system side by side with a KVM switch. My new solution is to just unplug the new system's side of the KVM. The red LED in the dark is just freaky to see at night.