Athlon XP 2500 not working in ASUS A7N8X-E Deluxe

Need some ideas.

I picked up a 2500 Barton cheap to give my old computer a little boost. Unfortunately, I can't get the chip to work with my ASUS A7N8X-E Deluxe mobo.

Here's what I've tried:

1. Initially just put in the new chip and the computer won't post. Just a black screen.

2. Cleared CMOS. Pulled battery, changed jumpers. Nothing. Still black screen.

3. Pulled out sound card, DVD player, and 1 stick of memory. Only ran CPU, video card, 1 stick of memory, hard drive and floppy drive. Still black screen.

FYI, I have the latest BIOS (V 1.013) already installed. I did check to see if there was a special jumper on the mobo for different FSB's. There is but it's only going from a 200MHz FSB to 266/333/400 MHz FSB. So the jumper is correct.

My memory is the OCZ Value Series 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Dual Channel Kit System Memory Model OCZ4001024V25DC-K.

Does anyone know if the Bartons are incompatible with this? I usually think that it is the mobo that makes the memory work with the CPU.

At a loss. Any other ideas will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

16 answers Last reply
More about athlon 2500 working asus a7n8x deluxe
  1. Well, I have an A7N8X and a Barton xp2500+...and I havn't updated my bios since 03'. I have no issues so far so I really cannot begin to troubleshoot your issue. It doesn't seem like your using anything too spaceage for the motherboard and even if you were, you would at least get to post.

    Looks to me like you have done every single type of troubleshooting option that I would have done...I'm sorry but I don't think even I can help you here.

    Did you get a dead processor?
  2. I was going to say the same thing. If you have another 462 socket board try and get it to post in that board. If you don't my be worth it to take the chip some where and get it tested. Does your old cpu still work in the board after you tried the upgrade?
  3. I don't have another socket 462 board.

    I actually got 2 CPU's. I tried both CPU's and got the same "black screen of death".

    The other CPU is suppose to go to a friend of mine. I was going to give both of the CPU's to him to see if they'll work on his system. I'll update when he attempts to use them.

    Thankfully, my old CPU is still working so I know I didn't fry the motherboard or do some other foolish thing.
  4. I actually have a Barton 2500+ with an Asus A7N8X deluxe v2, and it works fine.

    Definitely would consider a CPU problem at this point if other CPUs work on the board...
  5. If you've tried this, then disregard it:
    Double check jumper set at most conservative setting
    Clear CMOS, unplug, remove battery for one minute,....
    Use only one stick of RAM
    Finally try the other jumper setting
    That's as far as I can think now, other than a third
    CPU. My Bartons all interchange and are recognized
    correctly by the AWARD bios.
  6. I assume you are trying to boot at 333 FSB. If it is set to 400, change to auto/333. I have a Barton (2400 mobile) in an Asus A7N8X deluxe v2. It won't run at 400 FSB no matter what I do, so I'm stuck running it at 333. I think my board is sick, possibly damaged by my PS when it went bad and started emitting a really high pitch. The computer, now my daughter's, still runs OK at 333.
  7. You disabled the talking POST woman and so you get no beep codes right ?

    I used to have this board whenever it got stuck like this the only way to get it working was reset the CMOS then start it up with no RAM in it at all.

    AFter it freaks out put the RAM back in and your away, Please don't ask me why I know how ridiculus this solution sounds but it worked for me alot.

    That board and CPU still work incidently.
    Good luck
  8. To respond to several questions:

    Reader850: The motherboard has two jumper settings, one for FSB 266/333/400 and the other jumper setting is for FSB 200.

    In clearing the CMOS, I assumed everything was set back to auto so I was thinking it was going to boot at FSB 333. Maybe my assumption is wrong.

    chungdokwan: Once again, another underlying assumption. When I cleared CMOS, POST is abled again. And this I can safely say is a good assumption because when I install my old CPU again, this POST function is on in the BIOS. But the funny thing is, I still get no beeps. I'll have to look into this a little more.

    I will attempt your idea of not having any RAM into the motherboard and then turning on power and letting the computer "freak out".

    Thanks for all your comments and ideas.
  9. I actually turned on my speakers this time to listen to the Voice Post. I go the following message after installing the 2500 Barton with no memory in the motherboard, "No CPU Installed" over and over and over again.

    I put the memory back in and it still didn't work.

    Must be bad CPU's. Anyway, to make sure I'm giving them to a friend of mine who has working 2500 Barton's in his machine. If these 2 I received won't work, then I'll have confirmation that the CPU's are dead-as-a-doornail.

    Thanks again for the suggestions.
  10. Thanks for all of your suggestions. I received confirmation that the CPU's are DOA. My friend tried the CPU's on 3 other machines that he's had other Barton's working on them.

    One last thing to do: Return to sender and get 2 new one's. Hopefully those will work.
  11. Hi all,

    brand new here. Sorry to hear about your Bartons. I just bought a HP pavilion a320n from a friend. It has the ASUS A7N8X board with the Barton 2800+2080M proc and 1/2 gig DDR 333. I was just wondering, why you guys were on the subject, if there was a way to overclock that chip? I'm used to Intel MOBO's and I didn't see any other CMOS jumpers except for the two you guys were referring to. Do either of those allow you to change the voltage or multiplier when moved to different pins or are they just for clearing CMOS, battery, passwords, etc? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    BTW- a good trick I learned was to remove the battery (like someone said) when you get a black screen and either have no post beeps or beeps you don't know what they are. My twist on this is to unplug the PS first; MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS!!!! and putting the bat. in backwards for a few minutes. I was told that shorts out something that has to do with the SM bus or something between the proc, battery, and memory and possibly video(???) Whatever it does, it has brought back countless black screens for me when I thought I had a dead board, proc, mem stick or video solution. Maybe it's the same as just pulling the battery, not sure. Put the bat. back in normal and THEN plug the PS back in. Just a possible FYI.

    Thanks in advance,
  12. I gave the bartons to a guy who already had oc'd bartons in his machine. Those bartons I received were DOA. I returned them and got new ones and they were DOA.

    I finally said screw it and waited until prices dropped down recently and built a new machine.

    I was able to pick up the E6400 at MicroCenter for $160 (OEM). I wanted to get the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro but a lot of places are currently out-of-stock or you have to pay an arm & a leg for. I got lucky and sillyrabbit had his stock heatsink laying around and he shipped his to me.

    And I didn't have to pay for an OS since I have the original WinXP disk when I built my computer 5 years ago.

    Here's my new system:

    Intel Core2Duo E6400
    Sapphire Radeon X1950XT 256MB
    OCZ ATI Xfire Certified 2x1GB DDRII 800
    Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 Perpendicular Drive 320GB SATAII 3.0Gb/s
    Antec Sonata II Case with 450W PSU
    LG 18x DVD R/W/RW drive
    Turtle Beach Santa Cruz - from my old computer

    WinXP took 2 minutes to boot with all the firewall crap & stuff on my old sytem to around 15-20 seconds on my new system.

    With rebates, I bought this system for just over $800. And I'm selling my old system for $200. I eventually will pick up the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro and a Seasonic S12 Energy Plus 650W PSU which costs together around $170-$200.

    But for the time being, I'll have spent $600 for a very good complete system for around the cost of an 8800GTX.
  13. Very nice system, well thought out. With the upgrades you mentioned and a DX-10 card later this summer (We Hope) top notch :!:
  14. I figured by the time Vista SP2 came out (2 or more years), then that would be the time to buy a nice mid/high level card.

    Some 8800GTS's can be had for around $260 after MIR which is really a damn good deal considering NVidia has no competition currently for DX10 cards. But since there are no DX10 games available, those cards are just really faster cards for current DX9 games.

    Maybe the R600 will really be THAT good and maybe a year from now, I'll upgrade without waiting for VISTA SP2.

    I just can't wait to buy a new PSU and get that heatsink to start tweaking my system.
  15. Thanks purdueguy for your quick response. I guess I was wondering how you go ABOUT oc'ing the barton on that board? Is there a cmos jumper on the board somewhere besides the two in conjunction by the battery where it's set to pns 1-2 for normal and you put it on 2-3 to be able to set the proc speed? I hope I don't come across as sounding stupid, but I used to work for Intel desktop MOBO's a long time ago and things have changed so much since then. I am permanently disabled now, but still work on peoples systems and my own systems. I used to troubleshoot boards using an O'scope and L.A. and provide feedback to the design teams regarding power problems and do A LOT of rework. I can't do that anymore because of my back problems (hunch over a bench sitting on a stool for 4-5 hrs/day. Anyway, I am way behind. It used to be on Intel boards with AMI and an open proc that you could go into config mode and chage the speed and hope you had enough paste and fan to cool the thing and hope you would get vid sync. when you uped the speed. I think Award, you had to change the voltage and the multiplier, but Intel always used AMI BIOS. do you know if you are able to do that with the barton and the asus somehow?
    btw- NICE system you got... congrats! Hell, I didn't even know there was serial ATA II yet! I guess in order to keep building systems and fixiing/upgrading them, I'm going to have to do much more reading to catch up on the cutting edge stuff. My P4 has a BFG GeForce 5500 AGP4x add-in with it. Is that a decent graphics card these days? I'm pretty sure it's better than the nVidia video on the MB.
    Anyway, I think what you were trying to tell me is to not try and oc my barton since your buddy gave you back two smoked ones! Thanks for the info and have fun with your new system!
  16. The ASUS mobo oc's using the FSB and multiplier.

    I got my XP 2400 to oc from 2.0GHZ to 2.25GHz. If the 2800 you have is the right model (don't know it off the top of my head, check the web) but with the right heatsink you should be able to bump up the FSB.

    If you can't change the multiplier, if I remember correctly, some of the XP's had the trick of using a pencil to connect some of the electronics to unlock the multiplier. I never did this but check it out on the web. I remember that Tom's did an article on this years ago.

    Make sure you have a good heatsink and fan if you plan on doing a lot of oc'ing. If its just stock, it'll still oc, just not has much.

    Go into the BIOS and start increasing the FSB a little at a time. At some point Vcore will need to increase to provide system stability. The ideal situation would be to oc the FSB to 400 MHz with the multiplier set to 5.5 and get your memory to 400MHz but I'm not familiar with oc'ing memory as much as the CPU.

    With only 333MHz memory, it might be better to just leave your system alone, as the ideal method of oc'ing is to have the CPU & memory at the same FSB speed.

    As long as the A7N8X is similar to the -E, there are no CMOS jumpers to worry about.

    Hope this helps.
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