Probably a dead PSU...

[Fulmar]

Since its the eve before Christmas eve (not many parts stores in my city open tomororw) and I'm trying to solve this problem as soon as possible.

After getting a phone call from my fiancee that her parent's computer would not boot up anymore. No power on or anything. I originally built the computer for my fiancee who then gave it to her parents when she bought a laptop.

Specs

Asus A7S33 Moterhboard
Athlon XP 1600
768mb DDR PC2100
Geforce 3 something
Duro 400W Power Supply (yeah I know, no name brand).

Like I've read in countless other threads on this forum, the LED light power on the motherboard is on, but no fans spins etc when the power button is switched, no boot. No burning smell, melted or burnt parts. I've had power supplies die on me before, but usually it was followed by 1) smoke 2) a psu fan stops spinning.

I had an old Dell Optiplex computer lying around that I once used for a linux router/firewall. I took the power supply out of that system (200W) and hooked it up to Athlon XP system. This time I got no LED light and no power on. Now I'm not sure if the Dell configuration of the 20 pin is proprietary or not. Or maybe 200W is not enough for that system (I calculated a recommended 202W on the extreme power supply calculator), but I figured it should provide at least an LED light or possible boot since it wouldn't be drawing 200 watts right off the bat.

Some of you may say, take your power supple out of the computer you're using right now! Well in the interest of time, my 'command center' of electrical equipment that are hooked up to my computer and desk area is quite extensive and is how do you say a wiring tangle nightmare. That and the addition that in order to take my PSU out I'd have to do a lot of busy work to remove cable ties I used to clean up cables in my case. So I'd rather buy a PSU at a local store and try that first, and return if something else is f'd up.

So I guess my only questions are:

1) Is the Dell PSU I tired to hook up bad - or is it because it has a proprietary connection.
2) Since I hooked the Dell PSU up to it and lets say it is proprietary, was the Athlon XP system damaged more by having it hooked up?
3) To use a volt meter to check a PSU, can I just have it plugged into the wall and have the meter leads into the 12V and/or 5V molex connectors and would I get a reading without a computer hooked up to the PSU/computer being on?

For those of you who read all of this, thanks in advance.

 

[Fulmar]

I did get a pm from bratsadtar saying replace the CMOS battery. I will when I get home, thankfully I work at Batteries Plus and cr2032's are pratically free for me.

Worse case scenario I'll probably just take the power supply out of my computer and put it in the XP. But I'll try the volt meter test you suggested.

I'm afraid it may be the motherboard as well. The system was actually underclocked running at 1000mhz instead of 1400mhz. The reason being(even after BIOS and every motherboard update there was) was that when the computer was set at 1400mhz frequency after week a so the computer would boot to the bios saying improper frequency was set. This was even on the Auto setting and jumpers correctly set on the motherboard. Since her parents didn't use it for more than email etc, I let it slide and it worked fine at the 1000mhz setting.

So I imagine the board was faulty from the beginning and I never took care of it.

And no storms in December in Wisconsin, and no power surges that they can recall.

 

[Fulmar]

I question the CMOS battery theory as I sit at work here as well. I'll change it for grins when I get home, but the shelf life of Lithium (CR) Maganese Dioxide batteries in 10 years. The system is probably going on 5 years, even though the battery is getting used somewhat and not in a 'shelf' state. I know the cr2032 in there is a Sony and contrary to their laptop batteries, Sony uses what they call a 'coke' design which makes them a little superior over say maxell and panasonic etc. I've pulled cmos batteries out of old Pentium systems that registered at 3.2 Volts, most 2032's register at 3.25-3.33 out of the box. I'll find out in 2 hours.

 

[Fulmar]

Yup it is was a dead psu, bought a 400 watt (only because they didnt have anything smaller in stock) and it fired right up.

 

[lotussama]

I'm glad you got it figured out.

I'd like to recommend this tool for diagnosing problems like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16899887004

It saves so much time and annoyance that it's ridiculous. I really think any serious builder/amateur tech is well served by putting one of those in his toolbag. I wouldn't go without mine.

 

[Fulmar]

I'm glad you got it figured out.

I'd like to recommend this tool for diagnosing problems like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16899887004

It saves so much time and annoyance that it's ridiculous. I really think any serious builder/amateur tech is well served by putting one of those in his toolbag. I wouldn't go without mine.

Yeah, the local comp store in my town didn't have one, but I plan on picking one up from the egg on my next order - which will be in about a month for my new system.