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Custom Water Cooling Setup hows it look?

Last response: in Overclocking
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January 2, 2007 6:47:27 AM

Water-Cooling Kit (alternative choice)
Swiftech Apex Ultra H20-220

Custom Make-it-myself:
52 Dollar Danger Den 775 TDX Copper Block
55 Dollar Coolrad 32-T Radiator- Heat dissipation 2445K KCal/hr or 9702BTU/hr
75 Dollars Aquaxtreme 50z 12V DC Water Pump
17 Dollars Swiftech Micro High Flow Reservoir
1.25 Dollars/foot Clearflex Tubing 1/2" EDIT: 10 Feet
39 Dollars 3 Panaflo 120mm Fans
1 Dollar Gallon Distilled Water
8.5 Dollars Zerex Super Coolant 12oz. Bottle
43 Dollar DD Maze-5 GPU Block ATI x1950 compatible?
7.5 Dollars Plastic Hosing Clamps 10 total

Total: 304 Dollars. Plus various shipping.

1.) Is this a viable water-cooling solution?(parts match up with 1/2 tubing)?
2.) Where can I go with some cheaper components? I'd really like to here opinions on a heater core or 2 120mm fan radiator solution to save some money without losing performance, and also I dont have access to a blow torch to mod a heater core.
3.) Any alternative recommendations in same or close price range.
4.) Would I be better off performance/cash wise to go with the 200 dollar Kit? How much heavier am I going to be able to overclock with the set up I made compared to the swiftech kit?
Here's the help I need, where I could I go with cheaper component without significant performance difference? I went with a 10.5 ft headforce(sp?) water pump to handle more flow and 1/2" tubing options, I'd like to
January 2, 2007 7:50:54 AM

Lookin shweet. Post a pic after it's all installed is all I can say.
January 2, 2007 8:18:15 AM

What components are you going to be cooling with that and how much overclocking if you do so?
Related resources
January 2, 2007 8:51:56 AM

I bought 10 feet of 7/16" and I only have about 1.5-2 feet left of it just so you know,

here is where you will get the absolute best help when it comes to water cooling and how well your components size up to others in there fields, this is where I got my start:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70
January 2, 2007 5:17:01 PM

Quote:
What components are you going to be cooling with that and how much overclocking if you do so?


CPU- E4300 Core 2 Duo Very heavy Overclocking. Its a 1.8ghz proc, I'd Like at least 3.2ghz

GPU- ATi x1950x Probably not as heavy, I'd like to overclock it beyond the specs I buy however.
January 3, 2007 2:52:41 AM

Quote:
beyond the specs I buy however.
exactly what overclocking is: over the standard clockrates. :wink:
January 3, 2007 3:36:13 AM

The TDX is a fine choice for a non-restrictive loop. But my favorite is the MP-01, you can also find a Apogee for as cheap as $40.
The 32-T is overkill for what youre aiming to cool down, I would only keep it if you would swap your pump for a D5, which adds almost three times as much heat into the water as the 50Z. But if youre budget oriented, pick a 22-T and keep the 50Z, this would be the wisest choice considering the temps you will get at the end.
I would use 7/16" ID tubing to add a bit more of pressure to the loop, you just dip the tip in boiling water and it fits like a charm.
Zerex is very fine coolant, but if youll order it separately just get HydrX for $3.
The Maze5 is a bit more restrictive than we would like it to be. The Maze4 or MCW60 would be better choices. Dont forget the RAMsinks.
January 3, 2007 4:16:47 AM

Go to your local office supply store and see if they have plastic spiral binding coils. Get it at the same size as the tubing you buy. They are considerably cheaper than Coolsleeves and much more durable (though not UV activated). Use it liberally and you will never have a problem with kinks when your loop has to fit around tight curves.

Avoid the plastic hose clamps. I prefer the worm screw stainless steel clamps myself. Just don't overtighten them as they will cut into your PVC tubing.

You can stick with the reservoir, but you can also set up a T-line without a reservoir, it just takes longer to bleed the air out of your loop. Use the white teflon plumber's tape on all your barbs to reduce the chance of leakage.

Are you going to be mounting your radiator internally or externally? If external, give some serious thought to a Swiftech Radbox to mount your radiator to the case. If I had mine to do over again, I would probably top mount my radiator as opposed to the back mount I went with.
January 4, 2007 11:30:39 PM

Update: Based on the advice I recieved I'll be going with the Maze4 as opposed to the Maze5 gpu cooling block. Metal worm clamps instead of plastic as well. As for the radiator, I'd like to top mount it since it will be quite large, I dont want to downsize the radiator below a 3x120mm fan simply becuase I may opt for a crossfire set up in the distant future if I get a second 1950 ati card. Also this is a cooling system I want to be able to carry to future system builds or modifies. As for a T line I'd rather stick the reservoir. Also I decided to go with 7/16" tubing as well.
January 5, 2007 12:16:16 AM

Quote:
I dont want to downsize the radiator below a 3x120mm fan simply becuase I may opt for a crossfire set up in the distant future if I get a second 1950 ati card.
Good, in that case you should pick a D5, it dumps almost three times as much heat into the water as the 50Z but you will be able to handle it without a problem. You can also afford to use the most silent fans you can find.
January 5, 2007 3:25:39 AM

In regards to the D5, why are you recommending it, more head power? or is it roughly the equivalent to the 50z at a cheaper price + the extra heat? Oh and am I suppose to use 35mm thich fans on the t32 or is 25mm ok to use?
January 5, 2007 4:31:58 AM

Theyre the same price, and the D5 has got higher flow.
Any thickness you use will be fine.
January 5, 2007 6:40:45 PM

One more thing, you said the D5 dumps 3x as much heat in the water, I take it this makes a big difference in how I set the loop up. I was thinking pump > cpu > gpu > radiator > reservoir > pump
with that extra heat would I need to do pump > radiator > cpu > gpu > reservoir > pump ?
January 5, 2007 9:58:08 PM

Actually it doesnt really matter. The water inline doesnt vary much within the loop, no more than 2Cs. But if you think it will give you some peace of mind then go for it.
January 5, 2007 10:51:15 PM

Koolance - good tech support - awesome performance!

The 700 series case for $300 is really a good deal - there systems are eally nice! Add 2 gpu coolers and cpu cooler and the extras is around $500.
January 6, 2007 8:24:27 PM

Quote:
Koolance - good tech support - awesome performance!

The 700 series case for $300 is really a good deal - there systems are eally nice! Add 2 gpu coolers and cpu cooler and the extras is around $500.


What he is looking at should perform as well or better than what you are suggesting. On the other hand, your choice is $800 and he can do his for around $500 (including case) why would he pay $300 more?

Koolance is great for those who don't want to DIY, in fact i'd say it was one of the best for that but not worth the price if you are willing to DIY.
January 7, 2007 10:31:16 PM

Yea I want to DIM. I think it will be a great way to save money as I'm doing my entire build on my new pc part by part, no point in cutting into the budget if not necessary.
January 8, 2007 5:16:59 PM

There are only two things that I would suggest that you don't have. The first is a reservoir with two input and one output (if it has two output thats fine just plug one). The reason is that I suggest you put in a fill port at the top of the computer, this way you can add fluid without opening anything up. Second, add a bleed line at the lowest tube height (right after the pump if you can) this will help with removing the liquid for replacement.
!