I purchased the Swiftech H20-220 APEX ULTRA kit a few weeks ago and I have had so many problems. The first problems were my own fault. I broke my first motherboard when I was removing the head sink clip around the 478 cps socket. I bought a replacement motherboard, Asus P4P800 E- Deluxe, on ebay cause Asus doesn’t make that model anymore. I got the used motherboard in the mail yesterday. I tested the major parts to make sure everything was going to work and then I after 5hrs of installation I put the whole system together in the case. The computer came on I adjusted the bios and booted to the hard drive. Windows did not recognize the sound or Ethernet cards, but I got the Ethernet card working and I was able to get on the internet.
I left the machine alone for about 20 mins and the computer powered down into some sort of power save mode and would not come back out to life. So I rebooted the computer using the reset button in front and the computer came back out after a few tries. (Didn’t really think much of that figured was a software error.)
Thinking little of the earlier issues I left the computer on all night and didn't touch it until today after I got off work. I again could not pull it out of what I though was the sleep mode. I believe what I though was sleeping was actually a real problem with machine, because now it will not come back on. I have tried restarting the computer from the front and switching the power off in the back. I have tried unplugging the power cable and waiting for a full power drain. Nothing so far seems to be making the computer come back on.
Granted water cooling is a new topic for me I have been messing with computer hardware for a few years now. I have never had some many problems.
Motherboard Manufacturer and Model: ASUS P4P800 E- Deluxe
CPU/Speed: Intel 2.4 C
RAM Manufacturer/Type/Module Size: Kinston PC400 2GB
Disk Drive(s): Manufacturer and Spec: Seagate 200gm, Deskstar 80gb
Video Card: Manufacturer and Type: ATI x850 XT AGP
Sound Card: Manufacturer and Model: Creative
Power Supply Brand and Wattage: Antec
Operating System: Win XP
I'm not sure how you can blame any of this on the water cooling... sounds like you would have done the same thing in trying to install after market air cooling...
You usually have to reinstall windows when you change a critical component like the motherboard or cpu. While this may not be the source it's just an FYI. Have you tried clearing the CMOS or maybe replacing that battery? Reconnected all the hardware and plugs?
i reseated all the components and checked the power cables.
When i turn on the system all the fans turn on including the one plugged next to the CPU.
There is just not picture. the hard drive light comes on and it sounds like the computer is powering up, but it is hard to tell over the sound of the pump and fans. (The sound of the pump coming on is new to me and it is difficult to distinguish the sounds.)
i cleared the CMOS by removing the battery and powering up the machine and letting it run about a min. then turned it off and replaced the battery.
i also followed the instructions in the manual to change a jumper to clear the CMOS.
The whole this is that the computer was working and then just quit.
I think Waylander's got it. You need to reinstall Windows after changing motherboard models, since Windows installs a hardware-specific HAL (Hardware Abstraction Layer) when it is installed. Your symptoms seem classic.
Sorry, I didn't read your last post carefully enough!
Did you clear the CMOS by doing all the following at the same time? Unplugged the power cord, removed the CMOS backup battery, and only then set the clear CMOS jumper for at least 30 seconds?
If that doesn't work, it's time to disassemble the system and start with a "bench test", with the motherboard out of the case on a non-metal work surface, install only the CPU, CPU air cooler, one stick of RAM, and a video card (unless MB has builtin video). Connect keyboard, mouse, and PS cables to it, and try booting it up (you will need to connect the on/off switch connector, or use e.g. a metal screwdriver blade to momentarily short the on/off header pins to simulate the on/off switch).
If that doesn't work, you know you've got a problem with one or more basic components (probably PS or MB); if it works, you can add back more items.