8800GTS voltage problems, please help!

Hi guys, I just built my new computer. Specs are as follows:

Intel C2D E6400 @ 3.0GHz
Gigabyte 965P DS3
OCZ PC-6400 Platinum Rev 2 (1024 x 2)
XFX 8800GTS @ 630/950
Silverstone ST65ZF
Cooler Master Hyper 48 HSF
WD SE 16mb 320gb

I think that's all the relevant details.
I have the 97.92 drivers installed (fresh install, properly yesterday). Using RivaTuner to overclock the card. There have been no issues with the overclock, no artifacts, no fatal errors, etc... This is the error I'm getting, it happens right when I reboot and get into windows.

Basically, it's been re-clocking the video card to a level waaaaayyyyy below what it even comes at stock. In FEAR, max everything, 1680 x 1050, I normally get:

Min: 59fps
Avg: 96fps
Max: 200fps

But after it re-clocks it goes to:

Min: 15fps
Avg 25fps
Max: 31fps

I have NO clue as to why it's doing this. When I re-installed the drivers the last time, it fixed the problems until I re-started again. I'd like to note that my brother, on both instances, went into the Nvidia control panel and changed the vsync setting from there - any way that control panel, in addition to using RivaTuner is messing things up? I had the video card plugged into the third twelve volt rail on the psu initially, which was 16A. After the error came up the first time, I tried changing the rail to the third one, which is only 8A. Both rails got the same error, so I switched back to the 16A rail again. I also tried adding 0.1V to the PCI-E through the BIOS, which didn't make any difference either.
As of now, I've re-installed the drivers again, and its working smoothly yet again, but for how long I'm not sure.

What do you guys suggest, this is driving me nuts!
9 answers Last reply
More about 8800gts voltage problems help
  1. I hope this helps, but make sure of the following:

    1. Make sure the 4-pin (or is it 6-pin?) PCI-E power cord is connected to the GTS
    2. Your MB should also have a 4-pin Molex power connector as well. Make sure that you have it hooked up as well.

    Generally, a MB has the following power connections:

    1. 20- or 24-pin power connector for the MB itself
    2. An 8-pin for the CPU
    3. A 4-pin Molex for additional power for the PCI-E interface
    4. There might also be a 4-pin connector elsewhere, but that might be on older boards.

    Good Luck!
  2. Well if you check all the plugs and are good to go, maybe it's your psu. Take something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817194004

    It's tested and rock stable. You'll need it anyway in the future and it's worth every $$. :wink:
  3. The only power supplies worth spending money on all come from PC Power & Cooling.
  4. Well i agree on that but at this price range liberty is really good.But if you know any 600+, modular,quality psu with 140 bucks, let the op know it cause i don't.
  5. I bought a PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad for about $190. It's rated for dual 8800GTXs and has 15 drive connectors. I think it's actually more of an 830W or so PS, but 750W is what they market it as.

    Personally, I sacrificed an 8800GTX to get this PS. I figured the money was better spent on it (the PS), than a 1st Gen DX10 video card.

    Gotta go and play hockey now.
  6. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817163108


    That should be enough power to the video card right? It's plugged into 12V3, so 192Watts. I mean if I have to I can try to return it and get the Corsair 520, but it's only 2A better (216watts)... Motherboard is plugged into the first rail.
  7. Yes that will serve you good. Reasonable price must be something important and always with your personal needs in mind. I wouldn't go for much more than ~140 if i were you.

    So is your problem finally resolved?
  8. Well that was the one I'm using, I'm not changing anything. Right now the problem hasnt returned since this morning. I'm not sure if its actually anything to do with the PSU, more a driver issue.
  9. Bump, any suggestions? I checked the voltage on the PSU, seems to be okay from my understanding of what it needs to be (seeing 12.1V to video card's PCI-E cable, and also to the 4pin connector on the motherboard - I couldnt fit the multimeter into the 20pin though, so I'm just assuming its okay). How can I check to see if the video card is junk? Any other things I should test that you guys know of?

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