Hi all, hoping to get some recommendations for a 8 port Cable/DSL Router. I am considering a Linksys BEFSR81 or D-Link DI-808HV. I have been reading some conflicting reviews on the net. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
If you need VPN the dlink or Netgear FVS328, FVS338, and FVS538. All of the netgear are bussiness class routers. I am using the 338.
Neither of the routers you listed posted the amount of ram and processor speed. If you want to USE VPN, the cpu and ram makes ahug difference for speed. But uplink speed governs the speed. at both ends.
ps. Your slow or no responce is mainly due to nomsnetworking having a problem with java script, with FF. Took 2 minuntes to get to the reply screen. So If I don't replay again I gave up on the wait.
I've read on the net there are some problems with the Netgear FVS338. Not sure if this is still the issue with their current version of firmware.
Forgive my ignorance but I'm not quite sure the difference between a switch and router. I'm assuming some advanced functions is the difference. If I went with a switch option, is it necessary to have a router? Any hardware suggestions are very appreciated.
I have been beta testing the new firmware for the 338. Over all the firmware is close to being released. The biggest problem with the original firmware was that it had problems renewing leases > 24 hr, that has been fixed. All VPN is working. The wizzard for setting up the connection worked with a hitch. I only did a manual setup for the client end. The only area that needs attention is the logging, which very few use.
I have the 328 model to, no problem with it. VPN works, just not the horsepower as the 338 when it comes to 3DES IPsec tunnel auth.
You will need a router if you have more that 1 pc tring to access the web. Which is proably the case needing a 8 port router. I have network printers, NAS, AP ....
A switch can be used to expand a system if needed.
A router allows you to share 1 IP with multiple pc. As a bonus you get a NAT Firewall.
8-port routers aren't all that common, and by looking for them, you're limiting yourself on choice and price. With an add-on switch, you can get the best of both worlds -- a good affordable router with any number of ports, and an additional switch with whatever pricing and capabilities you want.
Gigabit is a good feature for example -- at this time there aren't many routers with GbE built in, but there are many affordable GbE switches.
With the two-box setup, you connect the switch to the router -- this costs you one port on the switch. But you can use all the remaining ports, so you could for example connect some 100 Mb/s-only devices to the router directly, and present and future gigabit devices to the switch. E.g., with a 4-port router and 8-port switch, you'd end up with 3 available 10/100 ports, and 7 available 10/100/1000 ports.
Of course you could also get a 10/100 switch, but considering the cost, performance potential, and future outlook, I'd suggest going gigabit.
If you ever decide that you'd like to try jumbo frames, you'd need a version 2 for that. There are still lots of version 1's in the field. Note the box cosmetics -- version 1 looks different, and also v2 states support for jumbo frames on the box.
The serial number prefix and some other details can also be used to distinguish the two.
The GS108 (v2) could be a similar and better switch, but I haven't tried one myself.
I have a D-Link DGL-4300 for my router. I like it a lot. But it's a bit pricey (and doesn't support jumbo frames btw). You might find a cheaper router that does what you need. (Or a more expensive one if you need something beyond the DGL-4300). Let me add that at the consumer router level, you should probably look at wireless routers as well, even if you're just going to turn the wireless off (which you certainly should do if you're not going to use it, for security. Most consumer routers have wireless capability, and often they're no more expensive than the wired-only ones. The D-Link's wired-only version is the DGL-4100.
You might use some of Tom's guides to find what you're looking for:
The netgear switch is a good product like madwand said.
I do not like combo units(wireless routers). The raidio side adds a lot of heat to the units. They share resources which slow performace if you have other network trafic.
I use a 8 port Netgear FVS338 router, currently help debug the new firmware. I needed the VPN. I have and use the 328 model too. The main difference is ram and cpu speed. The 338 has twice the ram of the 328 with a 266mhz xscale cpu, +QoS. The 328 is rated at 62 mbps on the wan, where the 338 is 92mbps. The 538 model has twice the hp as the 338 model. Most of the problems with the 538 has also been resolved. If you go to any forum on routers, any mfg, you will find most have some kind of problem. If there was no problems the forums would be dead.
I have a seperate 11g AP that I have located centrally in the area where my laptop is used. It is a lot more convient to set a AP dealing with only 1 cat 5 cable vs a router with 4+ coming out of the back or front depending on the model. Seperate AP usually have High Gain Antennas, where a combo uses low gain. Which gives the AP at a minimum 150% more efficient ( 2dbi vs 5+dbi).
When I started out I only had a 4 port router. With only 2 pc's. Over the years I upgrade pc's, (kept the old ones), added a NAS, then added a Network Laser Printer. So I quickly out grew a 4 port router. As you can see if you decide to go the seperat AP route you loose a port. If you add a gig switch it is allways better to have only gig devices for optium speed.
These models of Netgear routers are their bussiness line. Built for heavy use. You will not have the lockup and other problems you see with residential routers. If you decied to use P2P bit tolernt software they can handle the constant use.
As for wireless, DO NOT BUY THE 11n OR MIMO. The 11n do not out perform 11g as advertised. They cause havic on 11g networks. If they see one they should drop back to 11g speeds, and drop the chanel bonding. So you end up with a lo gain 11g speed. So save your money. None made today will meed the 11n spec when it is ratified. The last I heard it may be as late as 2008 before it is ratified. I hate to say it. It's kind of like the 11g spec. execpt that they have b and g to deal with. And some, have yet to get the 11g to work as it should, 2 years latter. It's only going to be worst with the 11n. Stay away from BELKIN, these have a high failure rate. I have yet to find one that has worked for a 1 month without locking up.
A good 11g AP will have a range of 350' if done properly. I cover my whole house on low power. But I'm not using a residential AP.