Ok, this is my first post so cut me a bit of slack if I got things wrong?
How I see it!!
These tower cpu type coolers, the Tunic Tower, Freezer Pro, etc, are great for cooling the cpu itself, but the biggest downfall in my eyes is no motherboard cooling
(
Now this bothers me a lot, the idea of front & rear exit fans (wind tunnel effect) seems a waste of time, if it whips past the motherboard without touching it.
And the thought of a side fan blowing right into the suction of a 120rear also seems pointless.
This is why I prefer OEM/flower type coolers.
See my expanation here...[/img]pic1
Would building some kind of deflector plate inprove on this?
plate
And if all video cards were made like this, we wouldn't have to worry about the heat from these being added inside the case.
coolcard
Rant over!!!
whats your thoughts?
Thanks for the reply!! (i know your the man to see, when it comes time to renew my psu ;o)
I understand what your saying, but if the cool air being blown inside the case in an funnel effect, what concerns me is the 50% or more? that’s being wasted blown against the opposite side of the case, facing the motherboard.
Any air that’s taken in from the front fan & extracted from the back without cooling anything is pure waste.
A simple answer I know, would be to add more fans, but it's not everybody’s cup of tea, noise/extra power.
I keeping myself busy at night going over in my head different cooling methods (sad but true
(
Coolcard????
Try the Vantec Icberq 6,it will install on 60 different gpu's..
As to your "wind tunnel" effect that is excatly why for years AMD did not sanction front fans in their systems,instead they recommended two fans on the PSU,I suppose they were considering the effect of convection,,ie: heat rises?? Plus the pull of two fans...
Of course this was before today's monster GPU's and their insane power requirements.
hey dokk
Thanks for tip on the Iceberq 6.
Shame though you got to pay another £25 on an already expensive vid card ( and probably lose the warrantee) when no doubt the manufactures could probebly add this sort of duct for an extra few quid?
First time I’ve heard about about the AMD two fan thingy?
Never seen a cpu cooler with 2 fans, got any pics of one, sounds interesting. (soz about that, got mixed up with cpu & psu's)
mypilchfamily!
I cut (well, butchered more like) a blowhole in an old case of mine a few years ago.
Cooled it down, but also added a lot of noise too (it was an 80mm screamer I put in)
Hoping to get myself a nice cool/quiet Antec Solo case soon when upgrade time comes
)
Cooler Master has an interesting freezer pro clone that addresses this issue, the RR-DCH-S9U1-GP 92mm CPU Cooler
<--clickage
It is a shroud that directs exhaust air downward to cool the voltage regulators.
This is the best for every area of the computer, in pic one the fan was removed and pic 2 shows the new updated fan placement let me tell you it works awsome. I've had cpu fans and case fans that are noiser than what I use now and no coooling I've use to date does the job like this.
all fans are AC 120volts I have use all sorts of cooling none has even came close to this setup. Dust free, moisture free, have not had to clean my case close to a year now.
I think tool's case looks better, but a nice option nonetheless
I agree, concidering the tools used. I only had a old skill saw and 3.5 hand spikes. The blade on the skill saw has maybe 1 tooth left and the wood was 2*4s that was so twisted and at the time. I needed something real fast and this is what became of it. I will say his case in nice looking but he will not get the cooling I can achieve, I can assure you. I made one similar as he did but not as good looking and it did not do the cooling I required so I came up with this. when the hot summer comes I will be oc'ed to the extreme where as with his case heat will be a issue. Wood asorbs heat even with vents and fans none he uses will allow extreme oc'ing on a constant value. It is, wood does not dispense heat.
| Quote : Coolcard????
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AMD not "sanctioning" front fans is not as you imply. They merely recommended that the 1st addt'l fan you add besides the PSU exhaust, be directly behind the heatsink as a case exhaust. This went along with OEM's needs and does make sense because it allows a less careful consideration of airflow patterns by causing all case openings (besides those with the exhaust fans) to be intakes.
That doesn't mean someone couldn't improve upon it, by considering their particular case but such things a CPU manufacturer can't speculate on, they know that ultimately it is up to the system integrator to design the cooling as needed. "Usually" this still means the 2nd fan in a system should be that rear exhaust, only adding a front fan (if warranted) as another addt'l fan. It could tend to be a bad PR move too if AMD (or Intel, anyone really) spec'd that you use more and more fans, and thanks to some of the lazy cheaply designed cases out there, all those fans would be running at medium to high RPM instead of scaled back so it was really noisey.
true, all about what you want. Kinda with zalman coolers. Either you get the looks of a zalman cooler, or the performance of a scythe or tuniq tower
Motherboards are now more often having additional stages of switching for CPU VRM, it spreads the heat out more. They're also often using higher quality capacitors than previously, which helps a lot but on the other hand the current has gone up a lot too.
I always put a barebones board, CPU, etc together outside of the case first and check the resultant VRM area temps while stress testing. Sometimes there are no heat issues even with a tower or otherwise low airflow sink installed, or one that had the bios (or software) set to throttle down fan speeds when CPU temp is low, but this makes sense as low CPU temp means either low ambient or lower CPU utilization, either of which will mean lower VRM area heating too.
I pretty much ignore the northbridge because a decent 'sink will be large enough (or wearing a fan) that any of the CPU 'sinks will suffice. They may not put the same volume of air through the sink but due to (typically) larger fans, they circulate air better in the region so what air makes it to the NB 'sink is cooler, and if the CPU 'sink is mated well with the system case, there is a more direct removal of heated air. In general I mean a sink and board and case all work together, some combos are more effective than others but hopefully the ambient environment is mild enough it doesn't take multiple attempts to get a satisfactory result without undue noise.
Some of the tower 'sinks do move significant air over the motherboard VRM area, or you could try a director or duct if you like, just do a crude one out of cardboard and tape it down to see if it helps then if it does, it justifies the time and material to make something better. I like sheet aluminum, or sometimes plastic when I have some scraps of it but I tend to buy aluminum for other uses but seldom plastic, so inevitably have more Al to use.
If you want a flower cooler, good thing they exist, it may be a good choice to address your concerns but I like to rely most on direct evidence, to appreciate it mattered you have to know what the temp difference of the parts in question were and if it was too hot either way, which you might know but didn't mention any specifics.
What I'm trying to achieve here is to maximise the use of wasted air that is sucked in & blown out through the case without cooling anything.
My (old but happy) system at the moment has 3 fans, psu, cpu (you guest it.zalman flower) & rear. It's not overheating or nothing, just trying to plan for my future upgrade & decided it's 5 fans max.
So just thinking the best way I can utilise the air flow without much wastage.
Like the idea of fresh cool air directed onto the cpu, as anybody tried this sort of setup with corrugated tubing? http://img174.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ductts2.jpg
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That's pretty cool.
I've thought about doing something like that, but I've never actaully seen a setup like that. Now I would like to try to install my pc to my coffee table. From the comfort of my sofa, I'll be able to surf the net, and watch MythBusters on tv, simultaneously.
you play bf dude, I think I have played wiff ya before. I',m gomerpile in bf dude, yes I know, I suck but, I love the game dude.
Is it a good idea to seal any miscellaneous holes in the case to make it airtight (excluding the fans)?
Can the results be evaluated only with careful testing?
| Quote : Is it a good idea to seal any miscellaneous holes in the case to make it airtight (excluding the fans)?
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How can your case be airtight with fans installed? You DO NOT want the case to be airtight.
| Quote : What I'm trying to achieve here is to maximise the use of wasted air that is sucked in & blown out through the case without cooling anything. |
Ok, but unless something is overheating there is no reason for this. If it is all cool enough, that is a sign you should instead reduce the airflow IF it wasn't really cooling anything, but I suspect it is to an extent, just not as much as you hoped.
So what is really the problem? If there isn't one, there is nothing you need to do. Extremely complex cooling that it hypothetically better but that didn't really matter in the end, is just wasted time. Details matter, exactly what the system is doing and go from there, it cannot be generalized as something that needs to be done, let alone being useful, without a need and demonstrated benefit.
| Quote : My (old but happy) system at the moment has 3 fans, psu, cpu (you guest it.zalman flower) & rear. It's not overheating or nothing, just trying to plan for my future upgrade & decided it's 5 fans max.
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This doesn't quite make sense, you want more fans and more effective use of flow, but no reason to believe you need either. Past a certain point, if you redirect airflow too much you decrease the rate but at increase in noise level. At that point, you might as well have just used slightly higher RPM fans if we are only going to generalize instead of the applied analysis of a specific area and needed rate of heat removal.
Like the idea of fresh cool air directed onto the cpu, as anybody tried this sort of setup with corrugated tubing? http://img174.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ductts2.jpg[/quote]
Completely unnecessary for stock speeds and can worsen cooling elsewhere. An overclocker might have more benefit, but it is more of a shortcut, a cheat to getting the CPU cooler instead of looking at entire case cooling, flow rate.
This is within the context of low noise, where maximum effectiveness is from a lower front intake and rear exhaust. You seemed to want a similar effectiveness but would need lower effectiveness by adding front fan or higher flow from an existing fan for otherwise similar result (besides CPU).
CPUs have giant 'sinks on them, should be picked appropriately such that the complimentary chassis airflow aids in keeping correct temp, at the same flow rate as needed to cool the other parts.
When you put in the alternate intake, it reduces airflow elsewhere, like your hard drive rack. You can put a fan in front or increase it's RPM to compensate, but then you have more noise too, and could've as easily just used the front fan w/o side intake.
Consider this- "fresh" air you would take in from the side, how is it fresh, what is the difference? The difference is that the otherwise non-fresh air had warmed a little from flowing past parts. That was exactly what the goal was, to have those part that heated the air a little, cooled by that air. By introducing the side intake you reduce the airflow rate flowing past those parts.
There is only one legitimate reason why these side intakes exist. Cheap heatsinks unfit for the job, and a certain CPU manufacturer who had a heat problem with certain family of CPU. There is a second reason that some case manufacturers added one just to be a feature line-item that kids thought looked cool, if it was dressed up nicely.
| Quote : Is it a good idea to seal any miscellaneous holes in the case to make it airtight (excluding the fans)?
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No, it is not a good idea to do anything until you have a reason to (unless you have a LOT of free time and just want to be creative about it, as it is a hobby you can have fun with).
Details would include where the hotter parts are, where the holes are, whether hotter parts are TOO hot, whether the case is positively or negatively pressurized and whether it's filterd or not.
It is true that the results would have to be compared through testing. Most people don't plug up every little hole, not even any of them usually, and have no problems as a result. It depends on every last detail though, it is only a waste of time to think about it without the details so it can be implemented at the time, because it is a very easy thing to just do it, compared to trying to guess every possible difference case factor that could exist.
You may think I'm going OTT with his (& you would probably be right) but my reasons are , a year back I did have heating probs, causing reboots & such. This was down to playing 3d games in a badly designed case more then anything else, plus, not enough cooling, so can imagine . I do not want same probs in my new system.
And the other reason, like you said!! It has become a hobby too.
So, my next upgrade: Antec Solo case (good reviews on noise/air flow) 90mm front fan (like the idea of cooling the h/drive) 120mm rear fan (standard), GPU fan (i think I sorted that out in the first post) cpu fan ( not decided yet) psu fan. thats 5 fans in total.
Over clocking! maybe, which we all know produces more heat.
New vid card ready for next new batch of 3d games (bio-shock & cysis, come to mind
)
And even if people don't have problems with heating issues, I'm sure they would still prefer their system running cooler, given the choice.
So I got 90mm inlet & 120mm plus PSU outlet, that would give me negative pressure? is that correct?
But what I really need to know is this!!!
Do I go for a Freezer pro 7 (good cpu cooling) or reuse my zalman7000 (cost nothing and cools some of the board as well?) I suppose I should have just asked this question to begin with
| Quote : You may think I'm going OTT with his (& you would probably be right) but my reasons are , a year back I did have heating probs, causing reboots & such. This was down to playing 3d games in a badly designed case more then anything else, plus, not enough cooling, so can imagine . I do not want same probs in my new system. |
With a new spare case, you can prep it before putting anything in, like the bottom front and rear fans, and if you had SLI'd video cards, maybe a fan low on the side panel. In particular I often cut out fan grills if they were merely stamped out of the case wall instead of being entirely open. It is usually most time effective to shoot for more cooling that you expect to need, then throttle back the fans to lowest RPM you can accept (versus heat increase).
| Quote : And the other reason, like you said!! It has become a hobby too. |
Yes, buying the case ahead of time can be a great way to try a few things out, much better than having to strip a system down to make changes. Even so, after a certain point it becomes apparent that a lot more time spent will have minimal gains relative to a better heatsink, or if you *need* to overclock a lot, then a better heatsink or even water cooling.
| Quote : So, my next upgrade: Antec Solo case (good reviews on noise/air flow) 90mm front fan (like the idea of cooling the h/drive) 120mm rear fan (standard), GPU fan (i think I sorted that out in the first post) cpu fan ( not decided yet) psu fan. thats 5 fans in total. |
It's not a bad case compared to some but does have several potential issues that degrade the cooling subsystem effectiveness.
The rear holes along the right edge create a short-loop that reduces airflow past hot parts, I would cover those holes up and then if your video card needs more airflow, leave the case slot cover off on the slot under the video card.
Front intake area a little too small, or rather, not concentrated enough towards the bottom. The top does not need as much intake, but at least having the bottom front fan offsets this a LOT, and it does give the case front a really clean look (if that's what you're looking for).
Front drive rack too tall to have all drives cooled effectively by only one 92mm fan. For best results a drive should have the airflow over the bottom, circuit board. However, that case does allow for two front fans, yes? If you want to install only one of them, ok, just put the drives in the right spots behind that one, and plug up the other fan hole so it doesn't create a short loop with the one fan installed.
The filter is great, but it will also reduce airflow. That combined with the merely average front bezel intake area could be an issue if the case is populated with a lot of higher heat parts, could result in needing the installed fans running at higher RPM to maintain acceptible cooling (I mean, you can't throttle back the fans as much, I always assume I will want to throttle back fans and at worst not be able to, with this kind of planning creating an additional margin.
I didn't mean to imply with the above that the case is bad at all, only that every case has it's own tradeoffs. Overall it is a lot better than average.
| Quote : And even if people don't have problems with heating issues, I'm sure they would still prefer their system running cooler, given the choice. |
I disagree, if they don't have overheating issues of any sort then they'd be just as likely to have noise reduction as the next priority. Remember that this also means that the more effective the existing airflow is (and reduced if reasonably possible), the more the fan RPM can be reduced for not only noise reduction but reduced fan wear, and with lower airflow there is less dust builtup, or with filtered cases, longer service interval to clean the filter(s). Also keep in mind that even with a filtered case, unless the filter is very fine (which reduces airflow too much in many cases) you will still get some very fine dust inside.
| Quote : So I got 90mm inlet & 120mm plus PSU outlet, that would give me negative pressure? is that correct? |
Negative pressure is most clearly present when there are only exhaust fans. When there is a front filter, this is a problem as it tends to draw in air though the holes and gaps everywhere, and in that case you would want to plug up all extra holes.
Once you start adding intake fans, it depends on the flow rate of each fan(s), cumulatively when there are multiple exhaust or intake fans.
Let's hope you aren't a smoker, but if you are or have a friend that is, smoke is a good way to see if a case with multiple fans has positive or negative pressurizaton (since you can't just assume fans' manufacturer rating for CFM in free air will still apply once the case is installed in a system), so a smoke stream near a passive hole will show you if that smoke is blown away from the case, or sucked in.
With a case having a filtered front intake you don't want that smoke drawn in (except in the intake area routed through the filter of course), it means dust gets in anyway and also your front drive rack isn't being cooled as effectively as it could be unless the front fans have their RPM (otherwise) unnecessarily increased.
The easiest way to get positive pressurization with your proposed case is to run the front fans at significantly higher RPM than the rear, and since the PSU fan may not be under your control, it would mean the rear 120mm fan spins very slowly, perhaps a first try would be with it spinning as slow is it possibly can reliably, then reducing the fan fans' RPM slowly as much as possible, stopping the front fan RPM reduction when the pressurization stops being positive and slightly increasing their RPM again to keep it slightly positive.
Remember that as the front fan filter fills with dust, the pressurization of the case will begin to change towards negative pressurization, so you want enough initiial positive pressurization that your preferred filter cleaning inverval isn't such a long time that the pressurization drift made it to a negative pressurization level.
Of course you would be monitoring system temps all the while, and planning for a margin here as well as for pressurization factor, since the airflow reduction will increase temps too (particularly when keeping the desired configuration of a positively pressurized case).
| Quote : Do I go for a Freezer pro 7 (good cpu cooling) or reuse my zalman7000 (cost nothing and cools some of the board as well?) I suppose I should have just asked this question to begin with |
Reuse what you have, only replace it if later deemed necessary.
Hey "I", thanks for the well explained reply you gave (sorry it took so long to get back, I’ve been away for a few days).
I'm going to imply a few of your ideas you mentioned into my new system.
The one last thing I ask?
You quote: the Solo Case does have several potential issues that degrade the cooling subsystem effectiveness"
Can you, or anybody else, recommend an alternative to this, whilst still keeping the values (clean looking, cool & quite) of the Solo?
Cheers all
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