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I converted my Antec 900 fans from Molex to 3-pin

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January 29, 2007 11:24:33 PM

Hi, just wanted to share my experience with converting my Antec 900 fans from Molex (the big 4-pin power connectors) to small 3-pin ones that connect to a motherboard. Hopefully this helps someone else. NOTE: this could burn up and destroy your motherboard if you don't know what you are doing.

Equipment used (I got these at the local electronics store Vetco):
-Wire stripper or suitable sharp instrument (e.g. scissors)
-A crimping tool. This is like pliers but it crushes things down to specific sizes. It needs to support size 26-28 I think. I got a high quality tool and it cost $15, everything else was only about $2.
-(Optional) expandable 1/8th inch wire mesh and zip-ties to wrap the messy cables up. Heatshrink tubing might work here too.
-A 0.1 locking socket (this is the little white 3-pin plug connects to the motherboard). Mine came with 6 "hooked" pins. You only need three, but these are tiny and hard to work with, so the extra pins help in case you destroy a couple. Once plugged into the socket, the pins cannot be removed unless you use a narrow instrument to push in the hooks.
-An existing fan with a 3-pin connector just for reference, so you use the right positions for each wire color

Here were the steps:
1. Remove the fan from the PC. Obviously your power should be off when you do this :) 
2. Open the little door on the fan's white molex connector. Light pressure with a screwdriver will work here.
3. Use a thin screwdriver or tweezers and press in the hooked ends of the power connectors. You will then be able to gently remove the pins that the fan cables are connected to.
4. Remove the pins by cutting them off, exposing the ends of the cables.
5. Use a wire stripper, or any sharp instrument to cut a circle around the end of the wire. The insulation can then be torn off. Try to avoid tearing any of the metal wires. If you mess up you may need to strip some more insulation off. Try to expose a very small amount of metal wires - about 1/8th - 1/4th inch.
6. Insert one of the cables into the locking socket pin. The pin should have "arms" that are meant to grab the cable. This should grab insulated parts of the cable, the bare wires need to be more or less jammed into the pin. It doesn't have to be exact.
7. This part is very tricky due to the small sizes involved, you have to use the crimping tool to crush the pin and the cable. Be sure to select the correct size on the crimping tool; it's probably the smallest one available. Done properly, as the pin is crushed, the arms will fold around the wire and lock it in. Be careful to avoid crushing the hooked head of the pin. Do both pins.
8. Insert the wires into the wire mesh tubing. Keep pulling more tubing over the end of the cables until the entire cables are covered. Then cut the wire mesh and use zip ties at both ends.
9. After doing this for both pins, they can be inserted into the locking socket. If you look at the locking socket and see the holes where the little hooks at the heads of the pins will appear, then the order of wires should be black, red, and white from left to right. I didn't have a white cable (used for speed monitoring) so I just used the left and middle holes.
10. Finished.

More about : converted antec 900 fans molex pin

January 29, 2007 11:40:40 PM

Quote:
Hi, just wanted to share my experience with converting my Antec 900 fans from Molex (the big 4-pin power connectors) to small 3-pin ones that connect to a motherboard. Hopefully this helps someone else.

Equipment used (I got these at the local electronics store Vetco):
-Wire stripper or suitable sharp instrument (e.g. scissors)
-A crimping tool. This is like pliers but it crushes things down to specific sizes. It needs to support size 26-28 I think. I got a high quality tool and it cost $15, everything else was only about $2.
-(Optional) expandable 1/8th inch wire mesh and zip-ties to wrap the messy cables up. Heatshrink tubing might work here too.
-A 0.1 locking socket (this is a little white 3-pin plug connects to the motherboard), and 2 or 3 pins for it. These are tiny and hard to work with, so get extra pins in case you destroy a couple.
-An existing fan with a 3-pin connector just for reference, so you use the right positions for each wire color

Here were the steps:
1. Remove the fan from the PC. Obviously your power should be off when you do this :) 
2. Open the little door on the fan's white molex connector. Light pressure with a screwdriver will work here.
3. Use a thin screwdriver or tweezers and press in the hooked ends of the power connectors. You will then be able to gently remove the pins that the fan cables are connected to.
4. Remove the pins by cutting them off, exposing the ends of the cables.
5. Use a wire stripper, or any sharp instrument to cut a circle around the end of the wire. The insulation can then be torn off. Try to avoid tearing any of the metal wires. If you mess up you may need to strip some more insulation off. Try to expose a very small amount of metal wires - about 1/8th - 1/4th inch.
6. Insert one of the cables into the locking socket pin. The pin should have "arms" that are meant to grab the cable. This should grab insulated parts of the cable, the bare wires need to be more or less jammed into the pin. It doesn't have to be exact.
7. This part is very tricky due to the small sizes involved, you have to use the crimping tool to crush the pin and the cable. Be sure to select the correct size on the crimping tool; it's probably the smallest one available. Done properly, as the pin is crushed, the arms will fold around the wire and lock it in. Be careful to avoid crushing the hooked head of the pin. Do both pins.
8. Insert the wires into the wire mesh tubing. Keep pulling more tubing over the end of the cables until the entire cables are covered. Then cut the wire mesh and use zip ties at both ends.
9. After doing this for both pins, they can be inserted into the locking socket. If you look at the locking socket and see the holes where the little hooks at the heads of the pins will appear, then the order of wires should be black, red, and white from left to right. I didn't have a white cable (used for speed monitoring) so I just used the left and middle holes.
10. Finished.


Yes.
a b ) Power supply
a b V Motherboard
January 30, 2007 12:16:49 AM

:lol: 
Related resources
January 30, 2007 12:19:19 AM

..
January 30, 2007 12:33:19 AM

I believe it was important to point out your apparent undying love for the band Tool by referencing my forum name.
January 30, 2007 12:35:13 AM

Tool = Total Awesomeness
a b ) Power supply
a b V Motherboard
January 30, 2007 12:38:49 AM

Quote:
Tool = Total Awesomeness

Second
January 30, 2007 12:41:31 AM

Sorry, I never heard of that band. (I am quite strange and usually listen to vg music.)

BTW, I made another "mod" to my PC, which was to plug in my USB cable into my motherboard, but offsetting it by one pin. The USB thumb drive smelt odd after this. I didn't discover my handywork until after the third thumb drive was destroyed. They were old 512 MB ones; fortunately I didn't plug in anything really expensive!
January 30, 2007 1:03:24 AM

why?

why risk burning out your board?..... they went with 4 pin molex instead of risking the death of the motherboard for the prior mentioined reason so why?...... it's called why bother given the outright lack of any benefit in going for the route you chose..... as a side note for the money spent on tools Coolermaster sells 80mm or 92mm or 120mm LED silent fans in a variety of colors you wish to buy with 3 pin connections and then supplies 4 pin molex adapters for those wise enough to use them...... so in all seriousness why risk the death of a motherboard for what on the surface doese not come across as "total Awesomeness" at all.

I don't mean to come off as flaming you it's certainly not the intent of the post even if it doese come across that way but I know of no other way to ask why anyone would possibly want to risk destroying their motherboard for such an outright worthless time consuming changeover that offers no benefits that can't be achieved by cheaper less time consuming and more practical while also offering more "trick" results?

for fuck to be honest were not talking about alot of money here and you spent more on tools which you could have bought 4 Blue LED Coolermaster silent 120mm fans which retail for approx $5.00 X 4 = $20.00 in total after taxes and less when on special?
January 30, 2007 1:13:03 AM

>why risk burning out your board, their is a reason they went with 4 pin molex instead of risking the death of the motherboard.

I guess I don't understand the risk fully, could you please elaborate? The only risk I know is swapping the red and black cables might be harmful. I'm guessing it will run the fan backwards, or burn something out.

My Antec 900 case came with molex fans; the motherboard was a seperate item so they aren't exactly designed to work together. Also, when I buy new Antec tri-cool LED fans they are very similary but actually have the nice 3-pin connectors, although they do come with a 3-pin-to-molex adapter.

I wanted the three-pin connectors because

1. It improves case airflow and cable management. No hanging PSU cable with molexes suspended throughout the case.
2. I can control the fans using software (SpeedFan) - so it gets louder only when my PC is hotter.
3. I can monitor the fans using software, so I can detect a failed or stuck fan and shutdown the PC or whatever.
4. I can connect the fans to hardware devices, e.g. a FanMate (OK, I hate the FanMate actually). These usually take 3-pin connectors.

My fans are huge (120 mm) but at the speeds I use they only draw about 0.5 W. I think they might even be BELOW the minimum spec'd amperage for my mobo. It seems to work.
January 30, 2007 1:22:27 AM

Quote:
I guess I don't understand the risk fully, could you please elaborate?
if your converting 120mm fans upon startup they pull comparatively speaking a significant amount of juice, so each time you power down your system and then restart to get the fans spinning is like gambling with the fan headers survival.

the lines etched into the motherboard to feed these terminals were not designed for such a comparatively large startup power draw and each power up is just one more chance to either kill the fan header or in rare instances kill the motherboard which I have seen happen.
Quote:
1. It improves case airflow and cable management. No hanging PSU cable with molexes suspended throughout the case.
2. I can control the fans using software (SpeedFan) - so it gets louder only when my PC is hotter.
3. I can monitor the fans using software, so I can detect a failed or stuck fan and shutdown the PC or whatever.
4. I can connect the fans to hardware devices, e.g. a FanMate (OK, I hate the FanMate actually). These usually take 3-pin connectors.
1: you don't need 3 pin headers to improve case flow and actually with careful cable management the nod goese to 4 pin molex by far as you can hide the cables behind the motherboard up to and behind the 5.25 drive bays so you'll never see the connections or the lines.
2: how often do you really need to adjust fan speeds? if you are running 120mm fans and feel a need to adjust fan speeds it's time to consider pulling the side panel or improving case flow more specifically by keyholing an exhaust in the top of the case drill 2 mounts for fan and add a nice fan grill to keep it clean.
3: set it and forget it, Coolermaster silent fans once set who cares, any additional software app is draining cpu power that can be used elsewhere.
4: smart shopping will find you fanmates with fans for a very good price $6.00 in my area with bracket mounts that also come with 3 and 4 pin attachments if need or you can go the very nice and clean route and get a 4 + way rheobus fan controller that would be very trick if you have the budget complete with colored display of your choosing or a multicolor display that cycles again of your choosing so long as you have the budget.
January 30, 2007 1:37:34 AM

Total awesomeness was in reference to Tool, a band of epic proportions...
January 30, 2007 2:31:33 AM

indeed, remember the first album easter egg on the flip side of the back cover (under the CD holder)? It was a pic of a cow licking its... well you know :wink: I made a few bux and many free bar tabs on that one 8)
January 30, 2007 2:49:22 AM

Lol, I have heard some interesting ones regarding the 10,000 Days packaging... like "666" being hidden in the painting and if you turn it over it says "GoD" but it is pretty farfetched and hard to believe.

The way the band is though, you know every single damn thing in each of their pictures has about a thousand pages of meaning and references.
January 30, 2007 7:04:34 PM

Quote:
if your converting 120mm fans upon startup they pull comparatively speaking a significant amount of juice, so each time you power down your system and then restart to get the fans spinning is like gambling with the fan headers survival.

the lines etched into the motherboard to feed these terminals were not designed for such a comparatively large startup power draw and each power up is just one more chance to either kill the fan header or in rare instances kill the motherboard which I have seen happen.


I don't agree that the fans would pull more current on startup. My fans have a manual switch (low/medium/high) and they recommend setting it to high in some cases because otherwise the fan might not draw enough current to begin turning (which is more difficult than to keep turning). The point is that the fans draw a certain maximum current or less, and simply fail to start turning if there's not enough. They aren't designed to draw more and more current in order to begin turning.

Also, it should be safe because my fans don't exceed the stated amperage range of my motherboard headers. IIRC they are 2W max (200 mm) or 1 W max (120 mm) and reasonable rpm's (2400), while each motherboard header supports the range 0.5-3W. When the fans are slowed down, they might actually only draw about 0.2 W which is less than the stated motherboard spec, but I don't see what harm drawing too little current could cause. I think the motherboard amperange range is intended to be compared to the maximum fan amperage.

I admit I don't have a lot of knowledge or experience to back up my arguments. I'm willing to risk my mobo because I feel the risk is quite low. The mobo manufacturers would not add fan headers if it caused an RMA every time someone plugged a fan in.
January 30, 2007 9:56:04 PM

Its not a smart thing to do period.
January 30, 2007 10:34:38 PM

>Its not a smart thing to do period.

What's not smart? To connect a chassis fan to a connector that's labeled "CHA FAN"?

Since you are "smart", perhaps you are capable of formulating more than one sentence on the subject?
January 31, 2007 4:41:12 PM

Quote:
I'm willing to risk my mobo because I feel the risk is quite low. The mobo manufacturers would not add fan headers if it caused an RMA every time someone plugged a fan in.
it's because you apply village logic as insight and motherboard makers add fan headers with 3 prong connections while Antec knowing motherboards use 3 prong headers sold the fans with molex connectors because they knew their was a chance of burning out the headers because the initial draw is beyond accepted industry specifications.... not the running draw but the initial draw to get the fan started.... that you believe the risk is low is probably correct but given how worthless your modification is it would seem completely idiotic to bother taking any ill concieved risk...... congratulations you spent several hours accomplishing nothing for the sake of nothing while risking your motherboard..... bravo.
Quote:
I admit I don't have a lot of knowledge or experience to back up my arguments. I'm willing to risk my mobo because I feel the risk is quite low. The mobo manufacturers would not add fan headers if it caused an RMA every time someone plugged a fan in.
given I've seen the RMA's I don't really care much about your opinion, you did something that was stupid now your defending it not because you have any particular knowledge on the subject but because you've already done the work and don't want to accept that it was stupid.
Quote:
What's not smart? To connect a chassis fan to a connector that's labeled "CHA FAN"?
my my we feel smart and defensive now don't we.

you post this topic in a public forum and the sum total of the responses not only by me but by others is 1: they don't care, 2: it was a dumb thing to do and 3: it was a waste of time, it was a dumb thing to do and no one cares....

now you limply with no actual insight defend you position for the sake of defending and not because of any particular merit.

understand I hope your motherboard runs fine, I hope it runs well till the day you decide to replace it and not before.

that said what you did was particularily stupid, you foolishly took fans that were designed to run on 4 pin molex connections (hence the reason they came with MOLEX CONNECTORS dimwit) because they pull to much to get going when 1st activated, this alone should have been your clue as to why not make the change then like a complete twit when questioned on how ridiculous the action was you are trying to defend your changeover.

I was not trying to be mean originally and to be honest I'm just annoyed at your abject stupidity now....... I don't wish ill will but even bothering to offer an informed post on how to screw up other ppls motherboards is idiotic especially when your foolish modification offers no benefits whatsoever.

yes you have a point your motherboard uses 3 pin fan headers leftover from the days when 92mm fans and smaller were offered....... yes Antec had a point when they designed the fans with 4 pin molex connections instead, it's because your silly changeover risks your motherboard........ I mean really what a bunch of jockstraps the entirety of Antec corporation must be to pay more to equip molex connections instead of 3 prong connections..... obviously they know nothing of what they do and you now vastly more because in the case of your 1 motherboard it has worked..... so far...... so you must be right and everyone else in the world must be wrong.

p.s. yes I know and truly I don't care.
January 31, 2007 7:10:05 PM

>what a bunch of jockstraps the entirety of Antec corporation must be to pay more to equip molex connections instead of 3 prong connections

Presumably they are saving a bit of money by not providing the option of 3- and 4-pin which would require additional adapters. Not every motherboard has sufficient fan headers, whereas anyone can combine multiple molex fans and use them, so they thought molex only was adequate and cheaper.

>your motherboard uses 3 pin fan headers leftover from the days when 92mm fans and smaller were offered
>hence the reason they came with MOLEX CONNECTORS dimwit

Perhaps you missed it, but I mentioned above that the Antec Tri-Cool 120 mm fans come with 3-pin connectors. The Antec 900 manual suggests using them and connecting them either to the motherboard or use an adapter to connect an available molex connector. This blows so many holes in your argument that it now looks like swiss cheese. FYI, here are the "motherboard-destroying" fans that Antec is foisting on the "dimwitted" public:

http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=75024
TriCool 120mm Blue LED
"3-pin and 4-pin power connectors provide convenient connections to your motherboard or power supply"

You think I'm stubborn, but I'm not. If you actually had a convincing argument that there is a danger operating these things WITHIN SPEC, I would undo the work at the cost of a couple of bucks (maybe cents) rather than endanger my motherboard. (I would be slightly disappointed due to the advantages sacrificed.) Unfortunately, calling people "dimwit" doesn't make an argument very convincing - try using rational arguments backed up by evidence. I guess inflammatory posts full of accusations and insults are much easier to spout.

Perhaps the real problem is that you are jealous because you chose not to make modifications like this, and are trying to justify it to yourself to avoid having to do any work? I hope you know there is a nonzero risk of your power supply being damaged by being directly connected to a faulty, out-of-control or shorted fan; whereas my power supply is slightly safer as it is protected through the intervening motherboard. I look forward to your demonstration as to how this risk is any less negligible or ridiculous than the risk you claim I run. Where are your links? Where is your proof??
January 31, 2007 10:32:18 PM

I also have Antec Tri-cool fans, they come with adapters.
Quote:
Perhaps the real problem is that you are jealous because you chose not to make modifications like this
lol, poetic.....
Quote:
you post this topic in a public forum and the sum total of the responses not only by me but by others is 1: they don't care, 2: it was a dumb thing to do and 3: it was a waste of time, it was a dumb thing to do and no one cares....

here's the specs on 3 systems I have in the room you let me know if I could possibly give a shit about your little mod.

E6600 Conroe 3400mhz (can go higher decided not to)
Gigabyte DS3
2 X 1024 G.Skill PC 6400 oc'd 945mhz 4-4-4-12 (can go higher bios limits independance from FSB)
X1900 XTX 512mb
2 X 74gb Raptors raid 0
Raidmax Sagitta case modded (by me) with dual 120mm holes and mounts for BlackIce II radiator mounted in the base of the case, case is also raised 2" on custom base brackets built (by me) to allow airflow for said radiator.
cooling is by 3 PolarFlo blocks mounted with brackets built by me blocks are CPU, GPU, NB swiftech pump and reservoir

system 2:
standard ATX case modded (by me) to BTX standards (inverted)
Asus A8N32-SLI deluxe motherboard, Opteron 170/FX62 oc'd
2 X 1024mb Mushkin PC4000
80gb 7200.09 seagate.
2 X LG DVD+- RW 16X

System 3:
DFI lanparty socket 939
3200+
ancient ATX case modded (by me) 80mm exhaust in the top of the case, 80mm in the side over top of CPU.
2 X 1024mb Kingston 2-3-2-6 PC 3200
X1800 XT 512mb
Raptor 36gb
LG DVD-Rom

one day I might be impressed by your mod... doubtful given it's a worthless mod...... that I've modded fans in much the same fashion to make them compatible with fan controllers as well as to replace dead powersupply fans is merely a side note to your absurd revelation.
Quote:
Where are your links?Where is your proof?
10 years of modding exp along with handling several RMA's from customers who tried exactly what you've done.

I doubt I'll be risking any motherboards for you as it would be inconvenient as well as expensive, come back after your board fries and fill me in........ a worthless mod that can be done more effectively would be a mod rarely done indeed leading to few following in your footstepts....... in your defense the newer silent 120mm fans run slower and draw less than the ones I was using back in the day so they will likely be safer, regardless I wouldn't reccomend your mod to anyone it's simply a waste of time and money.

I still laugh about the "I'm willing to take the risk" (pathetic stab at nobility :lol:  ) willing to waste time, money and risk a motherboard for a mod that can be done better in less time, with less effort and more cleanly while ringing in for less money..... you go brother.

you the man. :wink:
February 1, 2007 12:23:11 AM

>Antec had a point when they designed the fans with 4 pin molex connections
>I also have Antec Tri-cool fans, they come with adapters.

So by your logic, Antec also had a point in giving the fans 3-pin adapters. Or did those idiots at Antec waste money on the 3-pin connector plus an additional 3-pin-to-molex adapter? Would that make you an idiot too for buying it?

>here's the specs on 3 systems I have in the room you let me know if I could possibly give a **** about your little mod.
>10 years of modding exp

I don't understand what your penis size has to do with the subject. For reference, nothing you posted impressed me in the least.

>it's simply a waste of time and money.

It can cost as low as 60 cents per fan, excluding a crimping tool which is versatile and reusable. I am happy with the results. If you are happy with extra adapters and molexes installed in your case and unused motherboard fan headers, then congratulations.

FYI, almost the exact same "worthless" mod can convert your hated 3-pin fans to 4-pins, eliminating the need for the adapters and this extra point of failure. Since you are a master modder, perhaps you've already done this, and converted your CPU fan away from the hazardous 3-pin connector as well? Then good for you. I'm going to stick with facts - and operating within spec - rather than supserstition.
February 1, 2007 2:41:57 AM

.....sigh....... an uninformed idiot jumps in creating a topic about how to do a wire mod on fans that in reality is childlike simple offering a full blown tutorial into something that it later admits it hasn't a clue will be affected........ then it's stupid enough to call me jealous? questions penis/ego, and assumes/imply's I might have to impress it like I care about it's opinion.....

it didn't have a clue when it jumped into this project and it was only after debate within this thread that it finds out what it did was safe....... had it been stuck with the fans from 6 years ago the term would be "expensive" and unlike it I was smart enough to do some research during consideration after seeing a few motherboards come in with dead fan headers and one ECS board just plain dead and weighing pro's and con's that was it.

personally I find it cleaner to route wires out of sight instead of connecting them all over the motherboard but if you desperately need to use the fan headers whatever.
Quote:
Antec also had a point in giving the fans 3-pin adapters. Or did those idiots
rheobus connection option..... when selling $2.00 dollar fans for $10+ it's good business to cater to enthusiasts.
Quote:
almost the exact same "worthless" mod can convert your hated 3-pin fans to 4-pins, eliminating the need for the adapters and this extra point of failure. Since you are a master modder, perhaps you've already done this, and converted your CPU fan away from the hazardous 3-pin connector as well? Then good for you. I'm going to stick with facts - and operating within spec - rather than supserstition.
again it speaks without using the brain..... hated?..... how many CPU fans are 120mm?..... in fact if you had a clue you'd know that CPU fan headers are designed specifically to meet certain criteria established by the cpu makers above and beyond the accessory 3 pin fan headers and how many come with adapters?...... in the end it would be time I'm unwilling to waste for a worthless endeavor unlike you..... you misspelled "superstition".....
Quote:
I'm willing to take the risk
how noble :roll:
February 1, 2007 4:40:09 PM

FYI, I checked my motherboard manual last night and it actually supports 24 W per each fan header, not to exceed 84 W total. My titanic 200 mm fan maxes out at only 0.3 A (3.6 W). My motherboard can run these fans with both molexes tied behind its back. I of course checked this from the start to ensure safety, but I had forgotten there was such a ridiculously large margin of safety. Perhaps I'll power some harddrives from the fan headers. I'll let you know once I 've finished that mod.

>what it did was safe.

Great. I'm glad I've helped set you straight, Bloated. Let me know next time you need help with modding.
February 1, 2007 5:27:17 PM

1. All electric motors have a very large draw to get them started. It's not the running amperage that's a problem, is the startup.

2. This was the best way to be able to control the fans with software such as speedfan. But you shouldn't rely on speedfan to provide necessary cooling as the software could malfunction.

3. You can still monitor the fans by plugging only the sensor into the fan header on the mobo and drawing the power from the molex.

...I'm assuming you accidently offset the USB by 1 pin but... how did you manage that? xD I did it once but I had the excuse that the mobo did not have a properly layed out USB header and it wasn't labeled so I guessed... wrong. I almost caught the wires on fire before I powerd the system down, but thankfully didn't break anything (the way I plugged it in connected teh +5v to the front-panel USB's ground).

While it's not likely to ruin your mobo anytime soon, if you're overly concerned about the longevity of your system you should probably undo your mod and seek out an alternate solution. There are fans with built in heat sensors, I would suggest those. Some have the sensor on a wire so you can position it optimally (useful for intake fans).
February 1, 2007 5:36:36 PM

Quote:
>Antec had a point when they designed the fans with 4 pin molex connections
>I also have Antec Tri-cool fans, they come with adapters.

So by your logic, Antec also had a point in giving the fans 3-pin adapters. Or did those idiots at Antec waste money on the 3-pin connector plus an additional 3-pin-to-molex adapter? Would that make you an idiot too for buying it?

>here's the specs on 3 systems I have in the room you let me know if I could possibly give a **** about your little mod.
>10 years of modding exp

I don't understand what your penis size has to do with the subject. For reference, nothing you posted impressed me in the least.

>it's simply a waste of time and money.

It can cost as low as 60 cents per fan, excluding a crimping tool which is versatile and reusable. I am happy with the results. If you are happy with extra adapters and molexes installed in your case and unused motherboard fan headers, then congratulations.

FYI, almost the exact same "worthless" mod can convert your hated 3-pin fans to 4-pins, eliminating the need for the adapters and this extra point of failure. Since you are a master modder, perhaps you've already done this, and converted your CPU fan away from the hazardous 3-pin connector as well? Then good for you. I'm going to stick with facts - and operating within spec - rather than supserstition.


Moral of the story here is if you want to mod your fans\computer... do what you want its your money and your hardware... If you don't like it.... don't do it...
Now please let this post die...

~Cheers
February 1, 2007 5:51:38 PM

Quote:
....how many CPU fans are 120mm?..... quote]

Not to take anyone's side, but aren't the AC Freezer, Scythe Ninja, and Tuniq Tower (I know there is more too) all using 120 mm fans that come with 3 pin connectors to replace stock hsf?
February 1, 2007 6:28:53 PM

true enough but that is a recent change and the new CPU headers have been changed since P4, I would never be concerned with powering fans via the CPU headers.
Quote:
it actually supports 24 W per each fan header, not to exceed 84 W total.Bloated. Let me know next time you need help with modding.
I need help with powering the hard drive through the fan header, could you please do it and then tell me how?

thx in advance.
February 1, 2007 6:56:49 PM

>aren't the AC Freezer, Scythe Ninja, and Tuniq Tower (I know there is more too) all using 120 mm fans that come with 3 pin connectors to replace stock hsf?

Also, Thermaltake Big Typhoon (I happen to have this one): 120mm and 0.3 A.

> I would never be concerned with powering fans via the CPU headers.

Again, you're operating based on superstition. You SHOULD be concerned with connecting them unless you've verified that the particular motherboard supports enough current for the particular fan. Since you are an experienced modder, I suppose you can cut corners, but I'd rather play it safely.
February 1, 2007 7:37:11 PM

Quote:
Again, you're..... blah blah blah.Perhaps I'll power some harddrives from the fan headers. I'll let you know once I 've finished that mod.
stop stalling.
Quote:
I need help with powering the hard drive through the fan headerLOL..
man that is absolutely no help..... geez it's so typical.... you made the committment, talks trivial actions matter........will be waiting for the results and the instructions.

thanks in advance.
Quote:
I'd rather play it safely.what it did was safe.
it didn't have a clue when it did the worthless mod....now your a hypocrite and liar, thank you for putting it in words..... "I'm willing to take the risk".... :roll:

call it superstitious. :wink:
February 2, 2007 12:36:22 AM

>>"I'm willing to take the risk"
>now your a hypocrite and liar

I meant that I'm willing to take the NEGLIGIBLE risk that the manufacturers are lying about their own specs and that hardware documented as compatible will mysteriously explode when connected. Without doing this, I could not have assembled a PC. FYI, I'm also willing to take the risk that I can walk about outdoors without a meteor landing on me. I'm sorry you misinterpreted my statement, and I'm sorry that I let you quote it over and over without correcting you. I assumed you would eventually tire of this particular ad hominem issue.

Back to the subject at hand, I would not recklessly plug a fan, including a CPU fan, into a motherboard or power supply without evaluating the possibility of overcurrent. I suggest that you do not either, and I wish you and your hardware luck.
February 2, 2007 12:52:13 AM

Quote:
I guess I don't understand the risk fully, could you please elaborate? The only risk I know is swapping the red and black cables might be harmful. I'm guessing it will run the fan backwards, or burn something out.
can't hide from your own statements.

you did a mod with no clue then placed a tutorial in a public forum implying you had a clue which by your own admission was not the case only doing additional research after being pushed..... yes I agree it turned out to be a safe mod but lucky isn't smart hence the different terminology.
Quote:
I'm sorry that I let you quote it over and over without correcting you.
damage control and yet another lie.

a liar and a hypocrite, your issue and beside the point....... the claim to power your hard drives off your motherboards 3 pin fan headers while a waste has me curious..... I admit it's well within my humble abilities but I wouldn't be comfortable with it.... superstitious? sure :wink: ..... you on the other hand have demonstrated a love of wasting time performing worthless mods and have deemed it possible.... so here's your chance.
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