Tom's Hardware > Forum > Overclocking > Cooler and Heatsinks > What's the best way to apply Artic 5?
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I know this sounds stupid but I'm getting ready to put together my new system and I need to know the proper amount and application tech for artic 5 thermal grease. I've read alot of people say when overclocking that the thermal grease wasn't applied correctly or hadn't cured etc. I have a Zalman 9700 and e4300 that I want to overclock to around 3.0 - 3.2. I'd like to make sure that the transfer of thremal energy from the CPU to the cooler is as efficient as possible.

I also would like to thank everyone for all the great posts and info. THG has always been a great read and source of info.

:D

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Thanks.

I checked it out and I'm glad I asked. I thought you had to use more than that.

Reply to Richjrosa

i've found the best way to apply AS5 is to apply a line the length of the chip directly in the center and use the edge of a credit card to spread it until it's just thin enough you can see through it. Then apply AS5 to the HS plate in the same fashion covering the whole HS plate in that thin almost transparent layer.

Once you get skilled enough at the application you really only need to apply the AS5 to the HS, if you aren't making good contact during the mounting then it doesn't matter how much AS5 is on either the cpu or HS.

Reply to iocedmyself

Thank you, I was wondering if I should apply it to both sides. The AS website doesn't mention that.

Reply to Richjrosa

No, follow the instructions on the website exactly. There's too much room for error otherwise. You hardly need to use any of the stuff at all, too much is in some cases much, much worse than not enough. There's really no "trick" to applying it.

Reply to cb62fcni

Thanks, It also says it takes some time for the AS5 to cure and that the temps might drop up to 5C should I wait to over clock for a week or so or should it be fairly safe to start right away? I'm using the Antec 900 case so airflow should be adequate.

Thanks again.

Reply to Richjrosa

Quote :

Thanks, It also says it takes some time for the AS5 to cure and that the temps might drop up to 5C should I wait to over clock for a week or so or should it be fairly safe to start right away? I'm using the Antec 900 case so airflow should be adequate.

Thanks again.



I would say it would be ok as long as you monitor your temps and don't go overboard. What are you using for CPU cooling Stock or do you have an aftermarket cooler?

Reply to Stewartwi

You can overclock before it cures, just make sure you're shutting your computer down completely from time to time and watching your temps.

Reply to cb62fcni
- 0 +

Their AS5 instructions somewhat baffle me(especially before reading the instructions for the single core with heat spreader with decent pictures. Their instructions for a dual core just say a "thin line" in the right direction, and instead of a picture like all other types of CPUs, they have a little red line showing you which gives no idea how how thick the line should be, or how much should be on there. "thin line" can be in how thick it is or also how wide it is, but they don't say what they mean so I'm quite confused by it all. Does anyone know where any pictures are for AS5 pre-applied to a dualcore? I'd like to get an idea of how much is used.

Thanks you!

Reply to vaggeto

its showing how long and wide the line of as5 should be.

Reply to blackz28

You just need enough AS to completely cover the CPU with a thin layer, like a paper sheet thick. You can use several things to spread, a credit card is a good tool to do it. do not leave any holes, just cover completely, and carefully. That should take you like 5 minutes or so to complete.

About the quantity, I would use a thin line (like 1mm wide) in the center of the CPU, starting and ending 5mm away of the edges. That will be more than enough to cover the CPU completely.

Reply to plguzman

You dont need to spread it with anything... just folllow the directions (small dot or small line) and then attach the heatsink, giving it a few little twists...

Once you remove the heatsink after you do this (for whatever reason... you arent supposed to, just if you have to redo it or want the heatsink off) The layer will be extremely thin and covering about 1/2 the surface area of the CPU (all in a oval/circular shape, over the spot where the actual cpu is)

Reply to buckiller

Quote :

You dont need to spread it with anything... just folllow the directions (small dot or small line) and then attach the heatsink, giving it a few little twists...



Sure you don't need to, but you need to have a very, very good pulse to do this (something personally I don't have). If you want teh paste to be spread covering completely the CPU you should do it by yourself. Almost every builder will tell you that.

Reply to plguzman

Well, I'm a builder, and I try to discourage people from trying to spread it themselves. Too much room for error, especially if too much is applied. Follow the instructions on the AS5 website. The pressure of the HS mating with the heat spreader causes, voila!, a thin layer to spread across the surface.

Reply to cb62fcni

Forgot to mention, it's not important for the entire heat spreader to have AS5 on it. Only the interface between the internal dies, the heat spreader, and the HS need to be covered. The "spread it yourself" theory is a hold-over from the good ol' days before integrated heat spreaders, when it was critically important to make sure the exposed core got good contact or parts of it would die. Those days are gone.

Reply to cb62fcni

IMO its better if you dont spread it yourself regardless of how good your pulse is..? The force you put on the heatsink while twisting it is more than enough to spread the paste over a very adequate amount of space.

I havent seen any data showing that temperatures are different when the entire IHS is covered versus if it is only covered in the way it would be with just the heatsink twisting method.

Reply to buckiller
- 0 +

THank you for the replies! They help quite a bit... like ti was mentioned... I haven't applied TIM since the days where you did it on the die and made sure to get a thin layer over all of it. I order some good X23 TIM and a Tuniq Tower 120 and will use the apply a small amount and let the HSF pressure spread it out method.

Thanks!

Reply to vaggeto

Quote :

You dont need to spread it with anything... just folllow the directions (small dot or small line) and then attach the heatsink, giving it a few little twists...



Sure you don't need to, but you need to have a very, very good pulse to do this (something personally I don't have). ...
Not quite sure what a good pulse has to do with anything :)

Anyway, the big risk from trying to spread it yourself is that any minor low areas in the top of the layer can trap air when the heatsink is mounted, leading to heat-blocking air bubbles and possible overheating problems.

Reply to Mondoman

Quote :

Not quite sure what a good pulse has to do with anything :)



Haha, sometimes is important.... Anyway, I'm not saying that the pressure method is incorrect, in fact AS signals that one as the "recommended" way to apply it, just I say I feel more comfortable spreading the paste myself. When I do it I'm totally sure that the paste is applied totally even across the CPU. And a lot of people also use that way.

You can go the way you want. The important thing is that you are happy with the results.

Reply to plguzman

Well, if you're comfortable doing it that way, and you know the dangers of getting air bubbles or allowing it to migrate off the heat spreader into your pins, keep doing it like that. The only problem is, a lot of folks on these forums aren't aware of the dangers or are uncomfortable with doing it, so it's better to err on the side of caution.

Reply to cb62fcni

Quote :

Well, if you're comfortable doing it that way, and you know the dangers of getting air bubbles or allowing it to migrate off the heat spreader into your pins, keep doing it like that. The only problem is, a lot of folks on these forums aren't aware of the dangers or are uncomfortable with doing it, so it's better to err on the side of caution.



One of the advantages of spreading yourself is that you minimize the air bubbles. And if you spread a very thin layer of paste it won't go nowhere. Even more, I'm not using AS5 now, because I switched to Coollaboratory Liquid Pro (even better than AS5, need to be a lot more careful using it tho) and it is almost (if not all) pure liquid metal, and the way to apply it is also to spread it all across the CPU.

There is A LOT more "risk" with that product (because of its conducting characteristics)... But the thing is, if you know how to use it, you will be fine, and will achieve excellent results.

Anyway, you are 100% right. If somebody is has no experience doing this kind of things, it's maybe better to be on the "safer" side. But AS5 is a safe product in the first place.

Reply to plguzman
- 0 +

It is more critical on the raised CPU dies, like the AMD, Barton, Tbred, Etc. on the raised dies just a fine even layer on the die itself has always yielded the best results for all my tests, keeping in mind the thermal compound is to only fill the microscopic imperfections and it takes hardly nothing to do that, so less is always best.

Cure time doesn't really make a lot of difference when overclocking, the added heat will cure the AS5 faster, just monitor your temps.

With a heatspreader CPU I would still apply a thin even layer just thick enough not to be able to see through, but thin enough not to squeeze out around the edges, and my best results is to carefully apply the layer before dropping the CPU in the socket, its a lot easier that way.

I'm not saying the other posters methods are not good, I'm just saying this has worked best for me, and ultimately you'll have to decide whats best for you.

Reply to 4ryan6

Apply an amount about the size of an uncooked grain of rice. I usually just spread the stuff out with my fingertip until its good and even all the way around.

It is actually important that you DO spread the paste out prior to applying the heatsink. Especially on Intel systems - due to the way the heatsinks are mounted, your paste will end up squished to one side of the ISH only.

Reply to jkflipflop98
- 0 +

Uh oh.... hehehe. I really can make it pretty smooth myself... but any idea what is recommended for X23 and a Tuniq Tower 120?

Reply to vaggeto

Quote :

...
It is actually important that you DO spread the paste out prior to applying the heatsink. Especially on Intel systems - due to the way the heatsinks are mounted, your paste will end up squished to one side of the ISH only.


I haven't found this to be the case -- the compound tends to be spread out uniformly from the center in a circular pattern (I am assuming you are talking about LGA775 systems).

Reply to Mondoman

The credit card idea was ok, but use one of those plastic fake ones they send you in the mail....OR you could do what I did yesterday and use a business card :)

Pretty much anything with a smoothe straight edge will work...even a deck of playing cards. But as the site shows, you don't want a very thick layer.....the idea is the thermal paste improves thermal transfer by filling in microscopic pits on each surface to increase the surface area of contact.

Reply to immagikman

Yea, I like the CLP stuff too, it makes me kinda nervous though. When you spread it you're introducing the risk of air-bubbles, it's pretty much impossible to get them when you just squish the stuff down with the heat sink, but if you're careful you won't. Resistivity isn't the only concern, even if a material is non-conductive it will act like a capacitator if it migrates down in between your pins, and that's just as bad. Sooo many times I've gotten random shut-down calls on homebuilts, and when I take a look, sure enough, these people have used the whole damn tube of AS5 to mount their heat sink. High temps, weird behavior, CPU death. Much easier for most to just drop a dab on there and let it be!

Reply to cb62fcni
- 0 +

Quote :

Thanks, It also says it takes some time for the AS5 to cure and that the temps might drop up to 5C should I wait to over clock for a week or so or should it be fairly safe to start right away? I'm using the Antec 900 case so airflow should be adequate.

Thanks again.



i dont think you will see a 5c drop in temps.
hell you MIGHT see 1c. MAYBE.

Reply to sirheck
- 0 +

What makes you say this?

From what most believe, after a burn-in period it works better and your temps sometime drop by up to 5*C.

Reply to vaggeto
- 0 +

Quote :

What makes you say this?

From what most believe, after a burn-in period it works better and your temps sometime drop by up to 5*C.



i have never seen this and i have been testing t.i.m. for a couple
of years now. (as5,mx-1,radioshack cheapwhite stuff and some german
t.i.m.)

but here is a review/test you might check out.

http://forumz.tomshardware.com/har [...] highlight=

the overall winner t.i.m. is what i havent tried yet.
the masscool that is.

Reply to sirheck

Ok the credit card method was taught to me by a microprocessor engineer, so i think it's a safe bet on it being a good method.

Yes, you do want to apply the AS5 to both the HS surface and the core/heat spreader on the cpu. They should have a layer just thin enough you can almost see through...almost.

You never...never ever spread AS5 with your finger, bad idea.

Another thing i do to prep the HS surface is coat it a layer of AS5, and then use a bleached white coffee filter and rub the AS5 in until it's clean before applying the layer for the cpu. Also if using a credit card, (which i again stress is the best method for having a thin even layer) is use the coffee filter to wipe off the card. The reason for using the coffee filter is that it doesn't have any lint or material that will stick to the surface ensuring an even layer of thermal grease.

Reply to iocedmyself

Again, these methods are fine, but there's too much room for error if a layman tries them. The method on the AS5 website is almost fool-proof, and it covers the most important interface between the physical dies below the heat spreader and the HS. As I've mentioned, there's no longer any need to ensure the entire heatspreader gets a layer.

5C is definately a "best case" scenario that few people will likely see. After hundreds of applications, I've definately noticed a drop over time, but I think the most I've ever seen is about 1-2C idle and 2-3 under load. Maybe you'll be that lucky one that hits the jackpot and gets a 5C drop, but if you do you should feel like you've won the lottery, cuz the odds are probably as long....

Reply to cb62fcni

No disrespect to these guys but very few other thermal compound reviews agree with their findings. By itself that means nothing. However when you combine the result of multiple reviews you do see a pattern which tends identify outliers. Maybe the others have something to gain or flawed testing but it is something to keep in mind.


I personally have found no way to get Arctic Silver Ceramique to outperform Zalman ZM-STG1 or AS5 with my tuniq tower. Hell even once I tried it with no compound. It actual performed quite well. At idle and under a quick load test performed the same a using the Zalman. I didn't do an extended load test.

As for the burn-in I have seen little or no difference

Reply to bydesign
- 0 +

yeah the reviews are nice and all. they will give you an idea of what to
expect.

the best thing for someone to do is try for themselves.
as for me i have seen zero difference in the different types of t.i.m.

Reply to sirheck
- 0 +

Quote :

Hell even once I tried it with no compound.



lol yeah i have done the same.

some think that will kill a cpu, it wont. it will run hotter but
it wont melt :lol:

Reply to sirheck

I remember doing quite a bit of research and found one interesting review which showed that, of all things, water was the best TIM. Of course, once it evaporates, you're SOL, but it's pretty funny nonetheless. Different compounds do perform slightly differently, but this difference is slight at best. People act as though the TIM is a heat bottleneck, when in reality it's quite clear the the real bottleneck is heat being dissipated off of the HS. That's why you see such gains when switching to water cooling, if the TIM was the bottleneck, there'd be no gain.

Reply to cb62fcni

Ok, here it is, rather entertaining stuff. Enjoy!

TIM Shootout

Reply to cb62fcni
- 0 +

im currently running an x24400 with the arcticfreezer pro hsf.
and the t.i.m. is the radioshack stuff, before it was the mx-1 then
the as5 then back and forth for about two years.

i havent seen any difference. i flashed my bois and the temps dropped
by 10c though.

have done the same with my 3700 single core and didnt see any difference either.

ran a baroncore xp2800 for about a year with no paste, it still works
fine :lol: it does have paste on it now though.

Reply to sirheck
- 0 +

Quote :

Ok, here it is, rather entertaining stuff. Enjoy!

TIM Shootout



cool i havent seen that in a long time, but i do remember it.

Reply to sirheck

Case closed my tuniq barely works better than my old zalman 9500. With the cover off it destroys it.

Reply to bydesign
- 0 +

So if you improved your air flow in the case... it should do quite well compared to the 9500, correct?

Reply to vaggeto

Quote :

... People act as though the TIM is a heat bottleneck, when in reality it's quite clear the the real bottleneck is heat being dissipated off of the HS. That's why you see such gains when switching to water cooling, if the TIM was the bottleneck, there'd be no gain.


There is really no such thing as a "heat bottleneck", since the rate of heat transfer keeps increasing as the temperature differential increases. The thermal conductivity of a material is a constant factor in this equation; if you halve the thermal conductivity, you'll initially halve the heat transfer rate. However, the hot side will then likely get hotter (as less heat is being transferred away), which will increase the transfer rate until you get an equilibrium again. What we care about is the temp of the hot side (CPU). To minimize that, increasing thermal conductivity helps, as does decreasing the temp of the final sink (whether air- or water-cooled).

Reply to Mondoman

No product on the market has a significantly lower thermal conductivity than the "average" heat transfer compound. Thermal interface materials, are, as a given, fairly poor when it comes to thermal conductivity (due to the inclusion of various oils to prevent drying out, silicone oil being the most common).

What I was getting at is that people seem to think the barrier between the heat sink and the CPU is highly significant when it comes to dissipating the heat on the CPU, and this is simply not the case. The biggest "bottleneck" is between the HS and the ambient air. That's why when you look at a bunch of thermal compounds the difference is only a few C or fractions thereof, whereas the difference between air and water is often in the 10's of C. Sorry if my wording wasn't clear.

Reply to cb62fcni

Quote :

No product on the market has a significantly lower thermal conductivity than the "average" heat transfer compound. Thermal interface materials, are, as a given, fairly poor when it comes to thermal conductivity (due to the inclusion of various oils to prevent drying out, silicone oil being the most common).



The thermal conductivity of the Coollaboratory Liquid Pro is 9 times higher than AS5, as you could see in this chart:

http://synapsys.co.za/products/liquidpro/liquid2.jpg

The product is very, very good, but doesn't accept aluminum HS, and is highly conductive, so you need to be very careful when using it.

HERE is a good review of it (there are plenty around).

Reply to plguzman

Hmmm, I knew someone was gonna bring this up....

Coollaboratory Liquid pro isn't a thermal interface material, at least not in the traditional sense. It's freakin' pure liquid metal. It doesn't have the oils that almost all the other do that act as thermal insulators. So it truly is in a class by itself. It's interesting to note that the amount of improvement between this and traditional compounds ranges from 2 to 6C under load, much less than a switch to liquid cooling.

But I'll still give you a "D'oh, you got me."

Respect.

Reply to cb62fcni
- 0 +

Glad to find this thread .. but a tad late ! :)

I recently installed a Zalman 9700led and copied the instructions and applied the bundled grease to both the CPU spreader and the Heatsink base, I applied it as thinly as I could with the brush built into the cap, but even as I was doing it I thought it looked a bit much.

Im idleing at 39c in the bios with the 9700 at full revs! (on an E6600)

Would it be ok to remove the Heatsink and then remove (with a card) whatever amount of grease is left on the base of the 9700, and then just reseat it ? or do I need to do the whole process of cleaning the base with isopropl alcohol..

Do you think that would be a good method to reduce the amount on there? As long as whats left on the CPU looks evenly spread that is.

TIA :)

Reply to 3oin

Go ahead an take it off, use a paper coffee filter and carefully wipe away the excess material, buff it like you're waxing a car. Then reapply a small amount as instructed. Pay attention to the sides of the heat sink and cpu heat spreader, make sure you don't have any drippage down there. Don't worry about alcohol unless some got where it wasn't supposed to be. Good luck.

Reply to cb62fcni
- 0 +

Thanks cb :) I'll do that.

Reply to 3oin
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