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Finally building first PC

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March 1, 2007 10:37:20 PM

Hi. After months of reading, researching and working overtime, I’m finally going to build my first PC! However, though I have gained a basic knowledge, I’m still far from an expert, so I’ll definitely need some help in the process. I think what I’ve picked out so far is good, but some double checking first of all might be good.

So here goes.

ASUS Quietdrive DVD-E616A Black 16X DVD-ROM CD-ROM 48X Retail Box W/SOFTWARE

Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 320GB SATA2 3GB/S 7200RPM 16MB Cache Ncq Hard Drive

Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition OEM

Pioneer DVR-111D Black DVD-RW 16X6X16 DVD+RW 16X8X16 DL 8X IDE OEM DVD Burner

EVGA E-GEFORCE 8800 GTS 500MHZ 640MB 1.6GHZ GDDR3 Dual DVI-I HDTV Out HDCP DIRECTX10 Video Card

Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X2048-6400 2GB 2X1GB PC6400 DDR2-800 CL 5-5-5-12 240PIN DIMM Dual Channel Memory

Antec P180 Black ATX Mid Tower Aluminum Case 4X5.25 1X3.5 6X3.5INT No PS W/ USB & Audio Ports

Ocz Gamexstream 700W ATX12V 24PIN Sli Ready Active Pfc Atx Power Supply 120MM Fan Black

Asus P5N-E Sli Nforce 650I Sli LGA775 Conroe Atx 2PCI-E16 1PCI-E1 2PCI SATA2 Sound Gblan Motherboard

Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 Dual Core Processor LGA775 Conroe 2.13GHZ 1066FSB 2MB Retail

and an Xfi Xtremegamer from a different place.

Total: ~$2050 Canadian. No monitor, keyboard or mouse.


I also have some questions. These are just pre-build; I’ll probably order the parts next week, and make another post at the time needing help with every little thing >.<.


1. First, does everything seem good?

2. The DVD writer and DVD drive that I have chosen…Do they burn/read CD’s aswell by default, or do you need a combo drive to burn/read DVD/CD’s in the same drive? (Or would it be best go get 1 DVD writer and 1 CD writer.)

3. If you could slash 100/200 dollars, where would you choose?

4. Where does one obtain computer building supplies, including:
Isopropyl Alcohol
Arctic Silver 5
Anti-static wrist strap
Zip Ties (for cable management)
Cables (will I need any additional cabling, btw?)
PSU Cable Extensions

5. Anyone have a MODERN how to build a computer website that’s appropriate for first timers?

6. What’s the difference between these two cards?
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=666658139&vpn=70SB073A00000&manufacture=Creative%20Labs
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=666658138&vpn=30SB073000000,PCI,24%20BIT&manufacture=Creative%20Labs Is the second one OEM or something? If so, what’s that mean when talking soundcards?

More about : finally building

March 2, 2007 12:58:08 AM

1. Just goes to show you did your homework.

2. Yep. I have yet to encounter a dvd burner that doesn't do cdr/rw's.

3. I'd get a GA-965P-DS3 or even S3. Then again, I'm an overclocker at heart. If you intend to run sli, keep 650i.

4.

Isopropyl Alcohol - ask the pharmacists for rubbing alcohol at walmart
Arctic Silver 5 - any store like NCIX
Anti-static wrist strap - any store like NCIX or even Walmart
Zip Ties (for cable management) - Walmart or Home Depot
Cables (will I need any additional cabling, btw?) - What cables exactly? The case comes with the necessary ones, so does the psu. If you mean PATA/IDE/SATA cables, computer stores.
PSU Cable Extensions - any store like NCIX. Most like a ripoff. I'd suggest you get an power extension bar for 5 bucks.

5. http://www.pcmech.com/byopc/
March 2, 2007 3:03:25 AM

To cut some money:

-Go with the 6300 instead
-Go with a Gigabyte 965P-S3
-Go with the GameXstream 600w.....700w is overkill.

And order from DirectCanada....cheapest prices in Canuckland I can find....plus if you don't live in B.C you won't have to pay PST...just GST ;)  And on orders over $300 they do free Purolator. That'll save you even more money right there :D 
Related resources
March 2, 2007 4:31:37 AM

Great build man. Only thing i would change is maybe going from the 650i chipset board to a 680i board. Now about the sound cards browsing on Newegg i found this one which is your first link the one for $117.34 .

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E1682...

I was unable to find the other one on newegg. From what it looks like you are correct that might be OEM or maybe openbox and the other is Retail. The reason i say this is because looking at the shipping weight of the two cards there is a huge weight difference between the two. To be honest with you, with that little of a price difference if the other one is truely OEM or openbox i would recommend just getting the retail card. There is not that much of a price different between them and you get all the little added stuff with it.

And the DVD Burner you choose is fine. You will be able to burn/read both DVD's and CD's just fine with NO problems at all.
March 6, 2007 2:36:13 AM

Ok, sorry about the slow reply. I'm now considering the 650i and the DS3 (680i too expensive, and I'd prefer the solid capacitors on the DS3 over the S3 as I plan to use this for an unusually long amount of time.)

However, I've read that you can only have 1 or 2 case fan's connected to the motherboard 8O . Seeing as how I want to get the p180, which has like 3-4, this really won't work. Is there a way to get around this? If so do I need to buy something extra? And to what maximum can you have it?

What about the 650i, how many does it have?

Everything else has helped a lot :) .

Skyguy, I guess this question is good for you, how did you work around this with the p180?
March 6, 2007 2:39:13 AM

Yea don't worry about the fans. Try to find out of if they are 3 pin fans or 4 pin (Molex Connector) fans. If they are 4 pin no worries you don't need to buy anything they will plug directly into your PSU. If they are 3 pin you will have to buy a 3pin to 4pin adapter which can be found at lots of places. Then you will be able to change there 3pin design to a 4 pin and then do the same as you would with the 4 pin molex.
March 6, 2007 2:46:54 AM

Quote:
Yea don't worry about the fans. Try to find out of if they are 3 pin fans or 4 pin (Molex Connector) fans. If they are 4 pin no worries you don't need to buy anything they will plug directly into your PSU. If they are 3 pin you will have to buy a 3pin to 4pin adapter which can be found at lots of places. Then you will be able to change there 3pin design to a 4 pin and then do the same as you would with the 4 pin molex.


I googled it, and came up w/ this from http://www.silentpcreview.com/article255-page5.html

Quote:
The simplest way to set up the fans in the P180 is to plug the stock fans into a spare Molex connector and leave it at that.

I assume that means we're good?

Also, checking newegg, I get that the PSU I'm eyeing has "6 x 4-pin peripheral", does that mean I can plus up to 6 in?
March 6, 2007 4:08:19 AM

The P180 fans can be adjusted, plus they can connect to the 4-pin Molex's.....no need to go directly to the mobo. In fact, my mobo is connected to my Northbridge heatsink, my CPU heatsink, and my rear exhaust Noctua fan. The others are connected to Molex. HOWEVER, I have a fan controller, so I have them connected to a "converter" cable....comes with the fans.....so they allow 4-pin to 3-pin and vice versa. Lots of options ;) 

The Antec Tri-Cool fans that come with the P180 case are quite good. Putting them on high is too loud in my opinion though. Medium setting is fine. If you want really quiet, leave them on Medium and then add and/or replace them with Noctua fans. BEST FANS. Absolutely silent and push alot of air too for circulation. More expensive, but worth it if you want quiet and performance combined. Other fans are quieter but hardly push any air, or else push a ton of air but sound like a jet engine in your case.

As for the 650i, the ASUS P5N-E SLI seems to have 3 3-pin connectors on the mobo, from what I can tell. 1 for CPU, 2 for chassis. It also has a good layout, better than the DS3 in my opinion. Was seriously considering getting it, but 1) was too lazy to reformat and get everything customized again for a new mobo; 2) was too cheap to buy another 8800 to power my 3rd monitor in the 2nd PCI-e slot.....so I sold the 3rd monitor instead LOL.
March 6, 2007 7:17:35 PM

I've heard that the North and Suthbridges can get extremely hot on the 650i, so I'm reconsidering. There's also apparently some memory incompatibility with the XMS2, but there's a work around. On another forum, some guy made a guide on how to get it to work. I'm going to check to see if it's too far over my head or not. Also, I'm not really sure if I'm going to have enough money to ever get a second 8800 like ever, but it depends how good of university summer jobs I get 8) . You never know, though.

Still open to opinions/thoughts on this. It's the last thing I'm trying to decide, and the price difference is only like 6 dollars so no problem there.
March 6, 2007 7:40:38 PM

Nice list!

If you hadn't looked into them yet, you might want to have a look at the MSI P6N SLI 650i series boards. I have a thread going with some additional info and links in it here.

The P6N-Fi has heat sinks on both NB and SB and is $20 or so cheaper than the Asus board. The P6N Platinum has 100% solid caps, heat-pipe cooling across the NB and SB, as well as a fan included for the NB and some other features (additional IO ports) for about $25-$30 more than the Asus board. Both boards have 3 PCI slots (Asus has 2).

I have no idea why Asus left off a heat-sink on the SB.

I have the Platinum board arriving any minute now, but my P180B case doesn't get here until tomorrw (grrrr).
March 6, 2007 8:52:35 PM

Just FYI, the new Nvidia drivers for Vista can run a DX10 and DX9 card together on the same board ;)  So you don't need to get another 8800, unless you specifically want to run SLI. I was going to get a 7600GT to go with my 8800, to run 3 monitors...mix and match on the GPUs :)  But not in the budget right now......

ASUS is notoriously cheap on certain things and/or cooling with their chipsets...dunno why.

Any chance of finding the P6N in Canada??? Also, MSI is not known for their overclocking boards.....I'm assuming the P6N is an improvement on the reference design?? So, then it would also overclock well?

A good overclocking SLI board that's alot cheaper than the 680i.....now THAT is something I'd be very interested in to get a 3rd monitor going......
March 6, 2007 8:56:06 PM

Yea, I can get a P6N, and it's much cheaper but I've not heard the best things from it, or from MSI in general really. Can anyone confirm this?

How can you have 2 cards running from different gens? Like, does the processing power of the 7600 just aid the DX10 card? This is bizzarre.
March 6, 2007 9:15:47 PM

I am not sure where you are getting your info but here is the release info from the latest driver for Vista 32/64 bit.

ForceWare Release 100
Version: 101.41
Release Date: March 2, 2007
Beta Driver

Release Highlights:

* Beta driver that adds support for NVIDIA SLI™ support on GeForce 6 and 7 series GPUs
* Improved OpenGL performance
* Improved NVIDIA SLI performance at high resolutions
* General application compatibility fixes
* This driver supports the following features:
o Single GPU support
+ DirectX 9 support for GeForce 6/7/8 series GPUs
+ DirectX 10 support for GeForce 8800 GPUs
+ OpenGL support for GeForce 6/7/8 series GPUs
o NVIDIA SLI support
+ DirectX 9 support for GeForce 6/7/8 series GPUs
+ OpenGL support for GeForce 6/7/8 series GPUs
o NVIDIA PureVideo™ HD technology
* DirectX 10 NVIDIA SLI support for GeForce 8800 GPUs will be available in a future driver
* If you would like to be notified of upcoming drivers for Windows Vista, please subscribe to the newsletter
* Please read the release notes for more information on product support, feature limitations, and known compatibility issues

It says nothing of being able to run the cards together. And i have never heard of that at all. You have always needed to run the same GPU cards in order to enable SLI. Such as you can have one Asus 7900GTX along with an EVGA 7900GTX and no matter clock because they are the same GPU they will work in SLI. Now not unless i am missing something brand new added which if i am plz give the link so i can check it out. But you can not run 2 cards that don't have the same GPU in SLI mode. And when you have your cards in SLI you can only have output on the main cards output meaning that you can only hook up 2 monitors. Again not unless something has changed but i am running latest Drivers both in XP and Vista and i only see the option for 2 monitors same with my friends SLI rig.

The driver info i found is from http://www.nzone.com/object/nzone_downloads_rel70betadr...
also
http://www.nvidia.com/object/vista_driver_news_030207.h...

Now most of the XP drivers have not been recently updated. Not saying there won't be just saying they haven't in been in awhile.
March 6, 2007 9:39:36 PM

Correct, you have to have the SAME cards to run SLI. But I was specifically talking about non-SLI. For example, a 22" LCD on an 8800, and 2 19" LCDs on a 7600GT. From what I've been told at Nvidia, that is possible. But NOT SLI.

Wasn't possible in XP, but is apparently in Vista. Which suits me fine since I've now moved over to Vista.

But I'm still not enthused about the 650i boards....vdroop problems, finicky FSB and RAM settings.....and the MSI P6N isn't a barnstormer either. I suppose to move to dual GPUs and 3 monitors, it would make sense to just spend a bit more $$ and get the 680i......
March 6, 2007 10:09:57 PM

Quote:
Also, MSI is not known for their overclocking boards.....I'm assuming the P6N is an improvement on the reference design?? So, then it would also overclock well?

A good overclocking SLI board that's alot cheaper than the 680i.....now THAT is something I'd be very interested in to get a 3rd monitor going......


If you check that link I posted above, it has images (page 3) of the FSB clocked to 515... I'd say that was decent :) .

Not many people are talking about the MSI board yet, but that thread and links from there have multiple users getting 400+ FSB without too much trouble.

My P6N Platinum board just arrived and so far I'm impressed with the packaging. Very professional, including lots of cables, a NB fan, additional D connector to put 2 more USB ports out the rear (this connector also has a 4-LED debug, that can show 16 potential POST codes), an additional connector to put another 1394 port out the rear, rounded IDE and Floppy cables and a hand full of other things.

Unfortunately, my new case doesn't arrive until tomorrow.

Putter,

True, it's not as popular as the ASUS board, but from the posts from end-users so far, it seems like fewer problems with the MSI boards than the ASUS boards (of course there's fewer people trying to get it running, so that accounts for some of that).

I'll be updating that other thread with my own experience once my case gets here.
March 6, 2007 10:17:17 PM

Hmmmmm......I didn't see the 515, I must have missed it. I was only seeing around 430 FSB from my reading. Entirely possible I missed something......am not questioning your source, just my eyesight ;) 

While packaging is nice, personally I'd rather have a great board and 1 cable or none. In the past, MSI has been very light on both packaging and OC'ing features. I'd think that more people would go with the vanilla version, not the Platinum, for the price. Regardless, the board layout is good and if the FSB/volt control is decent, then as long as vdroop isn't too bad and it isn't picky/finicky about RAM or timings and the FSB near 400 strap then I'd think it could prove quite successful.

I'd imagine a BIOS update wouldn't be far off after release ;) 
March 6, 2007 10:18:44 PM

Quote:
-Go with the GameXstream 600w.....700w is overkill.
It may be overkill, but it's only $10 bucks more on NewE$$ right now, so it's worth it, esp if you're going SLI. Stick with the 700 -- killer gamer's PSU @ killer price.
March 6, 2007 10:29:57 PM

The 515 was on page 3... an image copied from a chinese forum. My general impression from all my research so far is that this board is as over-clockable as any other 680/650 based board and so far, I hadn't seen any particular memory compatibility issues.

I went for the Platinum version for the Solid caps, heat-pipe + fan, additional eSATA ic and rear port and additional SPDIF connector on the rear. The extra cables and such is just a bonus :) .

Don't get me wrong... I still haven't plugged this thing in yet, so if I have a bunch of problems wth it, I'll be bashing it to high-heaven, while looking for some alternative/replacement. But at this time, I'm optimistic.

Cons:

MSI Support forums are... well... they have 'user forums'. I've seen MSI personel in there, but they don't have any official presense there, as far as I can tell.

I'm also not particularly optimistic about BIOS updates.. there's not been one yet, so I'm just hoping that's because they got it right the first time :) .
March 6, 2007 10:40:09 PM

That is true.....MSI support is almost non-existent.


But PLEASE post info and thoughts, OC'ing, etc specs once you get this board up and running. I'd love to hear how it goes for you!
March 6, 2007 10:52:53 PM

Will do. I'm really only planning to oc up to about 400FSB (~3.2gHz on a 6400), if I can do that with the stock cpu cooler... otherwise, I'll have to wait until I get a new cooler.

The most thourough over-clocking done so far is by the folks over on the coolaler forums (taiwan?)... this link may just dump you at the main forum (google translated to english), but if you look in the "New Intel Main Board and related test" forum, there are several threads in there with P6N over-clocking results...

"CompoTech 650I overvalued well plate measured go up in smoke !P6N sealed listed platinum version"

"[Johnny himself reportedly ]965P killer N650i. MSI P6N-SLi Platinum Firm Listed!"

"Bargain NV 之 strong board Tyakheke P6N SLI-FI super C/P值 listed!"

"[Sealed boxes with a very smug ]MSI P6N Platinum version 8800GTX+QX6700 1920X1200 test"

...are a couple of them (translation leaves something to be desired :)  ).
March 7, 2007 10:52:00 AM

I'm ordering the parts tommorow night. I think I'm just gonna go with the DS3, and depending on how my budget looks I might drop down to the 600W since there's no chance of SLI. Maybe not, I dunno.

But there's just too many problems with the 650i (Asus= bad cooling, P6N=no solid caps (durability is a big issue), and P6N Platinum is 40 bucks more expensive than the DS3). All of them have RAM issues and don't overclock aswell (not that I will be overclocking right away). So for a safe bet, I think I'm just gonna get a DS3 unless someone strongly objects. Thanks for all the help :) .
March 7, 2007 12:29:36 PM

I wouldn't argue against the DS3 - it was on my short-list of 965-based boards (along with the Asus P5B-E). I started looking at the 680/650 based boards for the native IDE support and focused in on the 650 for the dual IDE (I have some drives that I need to re-use for economical reasons).

"All of them have RAM issues and don't overclock aswell..." I think it's too early to say that. These are new boards, so there are some teething pains and various BIOS updates needed, but the 680/650-based boards are proving to be some of the most over-clockable boards on the market.

Having said that... "So for a safe bet, I think I'm just gonna get a DS3..." I can't argue with that logic :) . Good luck!
March 7, 2007 1:47:34 PM

If you don't need dual IDE's or dual PCI-e's.....then the DS3 is a proven champ......it's an excellent choice and it's probably recommended around here as #1 or #2 mobo in its price range. Definitely a good choice.
March 7, 2007 1:57:05 PM

Skyguy,

I hadn't kept up with it (or have forgotten what I did know).. do you know what the various rev 2.0, rev 3.x issues/differences/changes are for the DS3?
March 7, 2007 3:23:33 PM

I know that the Rev.2 board has an added 3-pin fan header. Other than that, not too sure about any other differences....I suspect they're minor though. And I know the Rev.2 will take a quad-core CPU.
March 7, 2007 8:01:23 PM

rev 3.3 now has a total of 4 fan connectors... ill warn you though, if you get the p180 and the ds4 you WILL need a p4 cable on your power supply that is at LEAST 24 inches long
March 7, 2007 8:43:22 PM

Did they move the P4 from previous Revs??
March 8, 2007 2:07:43 AM

What do you mean by DS4?

Does OCZ gamexstream have long enough cabling for that?

1 IDE...My optical drives will be IDE right...1 thing powers 2 right?
March 8, 2007 2:14:23 AM

GameXstream has LONG cables, so no worries there.

1 IDE mobo header will service 2 optical drives, or 2 hard drives. Don't mix opticals and hard drives......else you're asking for transfer speeds of a sloth.
March 8, 2007 2:15:53 AM

Ok well I'm getting 2 IDE opticals and 1 SATA HD. So I should be fine.

Just out of curiosity, do they make SATA opticals, and can you mix and match them with IDE ones?
March 8, 2007 4:19:31 AM

Yes, and Yes. They are more than double the price, at least. Probably will become the standard within 2 years I would imagine.....which means we'll need mobos with 6-8 SATA ports minimum ;) 
March 8, 2007 8:27:14 PM

Last minute questions; OEM opticals don't come with cables/docs/rails/screws right? The former 2 I don't care about, but the latter 2 could be an issue. I wouldn't even know where to beging looking for drive rails or screws fit for this. I'd rather everything just came and I could put it all together. So what should I do?

Here's the link of where I'm buying it, the DVD reader is retail so that's no matter.

http://www.directcanada.com/category/?minorcatid=1571

Any one have any opinion on which I should buy?

I'll probably have a few more last-minute panic questions :) .
March 8, 2007 10:21:11 PM

Samsung SH-S182. Excellent drive, fairly quiet. I ordered 2 of them from Direct Canada myself, and I love them.

The screws are the same ones that come with your case. Rails are supposed to come with your case, since each rail design is unique to the particular case. Your case should have lots of extras to spare. If not, order this for your optical:

http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=00110AC6303&v...
March 9, 2007 1:29:55 AM

Ooops, too slow :oops:  .

I ordered this: http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=10530DR4642&v..., like, 20 minutes before you posted :( .

Whatever, it's ASUS, it's a DVD writer, I should be fine. I don't take DVD/CD burning that seriously, I just needed one for the odd time I do need to burn something. And of course, I wanted 2 opticals so I don't need to constantly switch. I almost got 3, until I realised my MOBO only supported 2. :wink:

So anyways, my final build is this:

EVGA-8800GTS-640MB
C2d e6400
Gigabyte-965P-DS3
Corsair XMS2-PC2-6400 (5-5-5-12)
X-fi Xtremegamer
OCZ Gamexstream 700W
Seagate 7200.10 320GB
ASUS DRW-1612BL
ASUS Quietdrive DVD-E616A
Windows XP Home
Cheapo mouse and keyboard (13 dollars for both combined!!! Come on, that's hilarious, I'll get a real one at some point I'm sure.)
Antec p180B
Arctic Silver 5 :) 

Thanks for all the help :) . I'll most definately be back in a few days when everything gets here (the first time I see a component and say 'What the hell is that?", you'll be the first to know!). In the meantime I'm going to pore over the building guides and get some tools together. I'm so excited!

Just for fun, here's my current build.

Dell 4700
ATI Radeon x300SE
1.5GB PC-3200 RAM (upgraded from 512mb last year)
Pentium 4 520 2.8ghz
Sound Blaster Live! 24 Bit
PSU/Case/Mobo/drives....Ehhh whatever Dell felt they wanted to give me.

Believe it or not, it actually plays Oblivion at a decent framerate :o  .

Once again, thanks for the help :) .
March 9, 2007 3:05:34 AM

Those opticals are fine.

Well, GREAT new specs there! You'll have a real speed demon on your hands.....you'll need a nice 22" LCD at some point to appreciate all the eye candy ;) 

Good luck with the build, post back if (or when?) you have any questions/problems!
March 15, 2007 3:27:27 PM

It's here!!! Everything but the DVD drive came, I'm sure it will come in the next few days. But I don't need it to get going.

So stay tuned, this looked tricky :) .
Edit, first question :oops:  . When adding things onto the motherboard, where do I set the motherboard or does it matter? Like, it says in this guide to keep it in the antistatic bag, but then do I just like set it on my workspace (aka, my concrete floor).
March 15, 2007 3:54:48 PM

NO CONCRETE FLOOR!!!

Cut up one of the cardboard boxes that shipped to you (slice the tape off, lay it all flat own on a table). Put the mobo on the cardboard. Then you can connect wires and such, turn it on and make sure it all works. When you're all set, disconnect the wires and put the mobo into the case, reconnect the wires.
March 15, 2007 3:56:21 PM

OK, will do....just for reference though, why no concrete?

Also, how do I remove the 5.25" drive covers. I got the plastic off, but there's a metal piece. Do I just use brawn to break it out? It seems...incorrect.
March 15, 2007 5:02:46 PM

No concrete for 2 reasons:
1) concrete is rough and can easily scratch metal and electrical components
2) concrete chips, breaks, and creates dust very easily....which can get transferred and caught in the little places in your mobo, and then damage it

The metal behind the 5.25....yes break them off. It's right. Just twist them back and forth, and keep twisting til they loosen enough to just pull out.
March 15, 2007 5:03:32 PM

You're good :) .

The Antec manual is pretty much useless. I don't know which screw goes where. I got long ones that I think are for mounting like the GPU, and I got short ones...Motherboard? I have brass standoffs that I understand, and a few other strange ones. The manual just says mount with screws :? .

I'm dumb :( .
March 15, 2007 5:05:00 PM

Post back if you have more questions. I'm working from home today so I can try to answer promptly, but I need a break soon.....so I'm sensing some BF2 coming.........gotta love working from home :D 
March 15, 2007 8:12:07 PM

OK, next question, if you're still there. When mounting the CPU, does it matter which way it's facing. And the CPU fan wire, I can't get it to reach the CPU fan pins unless I take it out of it's litte clip on the side of the heatsink. Is this good? It seems like this way I have too much slack. Or maybe I'm supposed to take it all out, cuz as it is, the CPU fan wires are hugging the heat sink....uhhh, I dunno what their called, the pieces of metal that dissipate heat.
March 15, 2007 9:02:58 PM

Need to know what motherboard and what heatsink do you have?
March 15, 2007 9:04:22 PM

DS3, stock heatsink for e6400.

Big trouble though...My P180b only came with 3 copper standoffs for the motherboard, or atleast I think. How many places am I supposed to connect the motherboard, and what do I do?
March 15, 2007 9:32:13 PM

Only 3 standoffs?!? Seriously? You should have one under each motherboard screw.....so 8 or so I think? You should get some more. If you're building this on the cardboard first you won't need the standoffs today.

Stock heatsink can face whatever direction you want, point it so the wire can reach the CPU fan header at near the top of the mobo. It's in the middle, near the top of the mobo.
March 15, 2007 9:41:14 PM

How do I get more? I don't want to have to wait however long (probably like a week atleast) for them to send me them. Yea, I'm building it on the cardboard but I had planned to continue. I'm at the stage where I was about to put the motherboard in but I don't have enough standoffs so now I'm angry. Unless there's a secret set of scrwews somewhere.
March 15, 2007 9:43:39 PM

Looks like you either gotta mooch some off a buddy or buy some. Or go to a computer shop and bug them for a half dozen, they might even give them to you for free. If you gotta buy them, should only cost a buck or two. Go to a computer shop that has offers repair service.....they should have tons of extra screws, standoffs, etc kicking around.
March 15, 2007 11:21:38 PM

Ok, well here's how my last hour or so has gone, and I think I might have found a solution. I just wanted to make sure, though.

Ok, so we have an old computer just waiting in the trunk for its chance to go to the landfill. It's one of those ones where the monitor sits on top of it (the name escapes me), and I think it's probably.....12-13 years old. (I found a card in there that I couldn't even identify).

Anyways, it seems Dell decided to make about as impossible to breach as was possible. Nothing screws apart, it seems as if it was one gigantic cut-out of metal and they just folded it all up, and the motherboard was partially hidden behind pieces of this metal,and inexplicable wouldn't come out.

Since it was going to the landfill anyways, I just decided to smash it :twisted: . Behind the motherboard were so things, I believe them to be standoffs (though they didn't sit in the motherboard mounts like they do in my p180...They screwed directly into wholes in the case, and then the mobo screws screw into them. So pretty much standoffs.

Now, they weren't the same size. They were much fatter on the non-thread part. However, the thread part screws nicely into the mounts on the P180, and the mobo screws fit nicely into the inner-threading of it.

The threaded parts have different lengths, but these new standoffs were able to screw all the way in. Overall they are similar in height (non-threaded part), but if you look closely the standard p180 standoffs a miniscule bit longer. I think maybe if I just screwed the p180 ones in real tight and left the non-standard ones a bit looser, it would be even enough.

Anyways, since that probably made no sense to anyone but me, I drew a picture :)  . Now I look like I'm about 8, but it's the best I could come up with.



Also of note, the mystery standoffs are silver coloured, vs the bronze/copper? p180 standoffs. Does the material make a difference?

Edit-Oh yea, and my question: will these work?
March 15, 2007 11:35:56 PM

Ah the joys of puter buildin.

The color should make no difference, if they are metal they will work.
Did you get any washers with the MB? You could use those to make up the difference.
March 16, 2007 1:15:58 AM

Ok, for my next problem...Those annoying bezel connectors!

My motherboard manual is different from what my case has. In the mobo thing it says the power LED connects to pins 1 and 2 (or maybe 1 and 3, I forget). But the case power LED connector is 3 pinned :\. I'm thoroughly confused.
!