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Antec P180 - Cable Management 101

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March 4, 2007 4:02:58 PM

Due to popular request, I've decided to finally get around to posting some pics of my P180 cabling job. The following is geared to anyone who's either considering getting a P180 and is curious about how it functions, what it looks like with everything installed, and/or how to cable it.....or someone who already owns one and may be looking to improve their cabling job. This isn't a step-by-step; rather, it is a selection of photos to show some options for cabling. I don't claim to have the best cabling job in a P180, but I think I've done a respectable job in my opinion, and simply offer this as a tool to help others :) 


Some system specs:
-Antec P180B
-120mm Noctua fans @ 1200 rpm (17dba @ 63cfm)
-Core2Duo E6300 OC'd to 3.2ghz (case is by furnace vent, so limited by heat concerns)
-Zalman 9500 (modded by me......replaced stock fan with an Antec Tri-Cool 92mm fan)
-Gigabtye 965P-DS3 Rev.2.0
-4 x 1024 OCZ Special Ops PC2 7200
-Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II Northbridge heatsink
-Seasonic Energy Plus 650w PSU
-Seagate Barracudas and Western Digital Caviars, 4x250 gb
-Dual DVD/RW opticals....Samsung and LG
-EVGA 8800GTS 640mb
-Zalman fan controller
-Dual Samsung 22" LCDs
-Logitech G15, MX518 laser

That about covers it. Cabling took FOREVER. Drilling, dremmelling, sawing, sanding, tons of zip ties, and lots of Diet Coke to keep me going.......managed to completely bypass the upper/lower chamber cable transfer area....talk about a bi^ch to do that ;)  In any event, patience is key, especially with the P180. But I think it pays off......

Now onto the pics:

FRONT:
Removable air filters, fan controller...


5.25" drive bay drawer for tools, CD's, whatever....


Sexy minimalist front...



INSIDE:
Overall...


Drive cage drawer pulled out (sorry blurry)...



OUTSIDE:
How to bypass the chamber isolation flange...





LOWER CHAMBER:



UPPER CHAMBER:
Modded Zalman, Northbridge HSF, Noctuas...



And there you have it....my baby. Highly overclocked and QUIET. I wanted a system that had kickA$$ performance but was quiet, sleek, and clean. The Antec P180 is a very quiet case and has amazing features, but the cable management is definitely challenging. This whole thing is HEAVY.....don't wanna move it too often ;)  Took forever to cable it but I'm happy with the results....everything except the crappy IDE cable....I'm disappointed with that.....oh well, next setup I'll get SATA opticals ;) 

Show and tell is now over class :) 
March 4, 2007 5:27:13 PM

Awesome! You are a master at routing cables. Your case looks ten times better than mine.

Regarding the IDE cable....
I was also pretty disapointed to see that flat wide cable in there. I went to the computer store and bought a "round" IDE cable... it`s much better now.

Nice setup, very similar to mine.
I also bought Noctua 120mm fans after reading about them on silentpcreview.com. I'll have four of them in the upper portion of the P180 (rear, exhaust, upper drive cage, middle drive cage)
March 4, 2007 7:01:52 PM

Drilling? Damn, you'd think a $130 case would have the holes in there from the factory. I wonder if the P182 which hasn't been released yet has these or similar from the factory. Nice job on your case.

Looks like the only drill hole I see in near the top behind the MB? Any others?
Related resources
March 4, 2007 7:53:00 PM

Stef: I actually have a round IDE cable. I'm still debating whether to use it or not. It's a bling-bling UV one from my previous system LOL, and I'm not entirely convinced it looks better. I'll think about it. Like I said, I'm disappointed with the IDE cable....wish I had SATA opticals. And the DS3 mobo has the header at the bottom...which really sucks......other mobos that have the header on the upper right side will be laughing....just tuck it right behind the cage and you're done! No such luck with the DS3 layout...that's my only criticism of the board layout really.

And yes, Noctua are THE BEST fans, period.


Gray: I did create one full hole behind the mobo to connect the 4-pin ATX cable. Other than that, believe it or not I just used an ordinary one-handed hacksaw to cut through most of the cage areas....and alot of elbow grease ;)  It was particularly useful for fitting through all the power cables along the backside, then notching out the area behind the upper HDD cage......and that little saw cost about $5 at the hardware store!

If I had better tools or more "handiness" with them I probably would have done a couple things differently. But overall I'm pleased. Shame about the IDE header location though on my mobo :( 

And yes, that is probably my biggest criticism of this case.....that it doesn't come with some pre-cut notches or holes. Soooo close to darn perfect but they missed on that one thing.
March 4, 2007 8:51:42 PM

Can always do something like this:
March 4, 2007 9:13:38 PM

The back cover fits into place after the 24 pin from the PSU kinda bulges out? It seems to stick out past where the white padding is. Other than that, it looks amazing, I think im gonna do something like that when I upgrade whats in my 180.
March 4, 2007 9:32:43 PM

Quote:
Stef: I actually have a round IDE cable. I'm still debating whether to use it or not. It's a bling-bling UV one from my previous system LOL, and I'm not entirely convinced it looks better. I'll think about it. Like I said, I'm disappointed with the IDE cable....wish I had SATA opticals. And the DS3 mobo has the header at the bottom...which really sucks......other mobos that have the header on the upper right side will be laughing....just tuck it right behind the cage and you're done! No such luck with the DS3 layout...that's my only criticism of the board layout really.
.


My mobo P5B deluxe has the SATA headers at the bottom right.

In the upper right are the memory slots
March 4, 2007 10:50:43 PM

Yeah, the P5B kicks ass.
March 4, 2007 10:52:04 PM

skyguy, i guess that you and Tacos, possibly me (*lol*), and others who own the case could form the ultimate stick thread for the popular p180 encompassing everything


ur ub3r 1337 with the case.
March 4, 2007 11:23:54 PM

Tool: I would LOVE to do something like that with the IDE cable....except my IDE header is at the bottom of the motherboard, and therefore the cable isn't long enough.....it's barely long enough to reach the opticals at all :(  If I had a longer cable......or a different mobo :oops: 

Drez: To fit the 24-pin cable, I notched out the bottom metal flange where the wind fan is with the one-hand hacksaw. Took some work to get it started because of the awkward angle, but got it. So that bypassed the white pad areas. But then to get the cables to the frontside and plugged into the mobo, I had to again cut a deep notch into the gap between the top/bottom chambers, where the hard drive cage stops. The rear pic shows it. To keep it all in place I taped them tight to the back of the mobo/cage so they don't "pop out". It's a tight fit, but possible.
March 4, 2007 11:27:28 PM

Oh btw I have a few Q's about your setup:

-what is that thing in the top 3.5 inch( ? ) bay? where di you get it?

-do all fan controllers fit in this case, because of the door? and ive heard that the included stock fans dont work with it.

-how would the scythe ninja fit in that case, with that board? would it mess up any of the transistors around it?
March 4, 2007 11:42:51 PM

1) It's a 5.25" drive bay not 3.5", and it's a drawer to hold stuff ;)  It's this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E1681...

2) Most fan controller should fit.....there is some good clearance between the door and the panels. This fan controller had a hard time fitting in another case, but fits easily in the 180 with room to spare.

3) A Ninja will fit no problem in this case. The designers actually used a Ninja as the HSF during the design and testing of the case. However, whether the Ninja will interfere with the capacitors, NB, etc depends on your motherboard, not the case. It fits in the case, but each motherboard is different. So you'll have to check the Ninja against the mobo pics.
March 5, 2007 11:24:36 AM

Wow, I am trully impressed. I don't think I could ever cut up my case like that though, I think its too beauitful as it is. What gave you the idea to start a hacking at it?
March 5, 2007 2:28:11 PM

It is a beautiful case, no doubt. And I was also very hesitant to do anything to it as well. Mind you, I was careful to not "hack it up" too much.....I tried hard to get everything squared off, symmetrical, etc. I'm so anal about that LOL. The reason I started was: 1) I needed something to do; 2) I saw some other examples and thought it was a great idea to pursue; 3) I was planning on changing motherboards and going with 2 graphics cards, and the cables coming up through the bottom would have interfered with the 2nd graphics card at the bottom......the cables wouldn't have allowed anywhere near enough space for a 2nd card (in the end I didn't go with a dual PCI-e mobo, but oh well).

I was careful to plan things out in advance and take my time so I wouldn't end up with a mess or mistakes ;)  Nothing worse than that.

To be honest, I don't know WHY a company hasn't released a case yet that specifically has purposeful slots/conduits/holes/etc behind and below the mobo tray, and to the rear and bottom of the case to wire your computer. Honestly, if they offered such a case, why would anyone bother wiring through the front anymore???

I mean, it's not that hard. It's a paradigm shift I know, but come on....in this day and age.....companies can't put some extra holes and slots as though cables should be routed out of the way? It's not like it uses more metal and would be more expensive. Frankly, I'm shocked nobody's done it yet. Man, I'm a designer in real life.....if I had more time I'd CAD up plans and shop them around to the case manufacturers.....
March 5, 2007 3:29:07 PM

Hey thats a pretty darn impressive cable setup there..


i have a P180b myself with 2x6800gs..

you cabling is way better than mine(i didnt do the whole drilling jig..)

that thing with the IDE cables does work pretty well. and if you have a long enough IDE cable it is fine. but can be hard to get.. that probably the only thing i can say about it...

one thing i did on my P180 is with the lower hdd cage you can actually route up to 4 SATA cables through the back hole where the cage slides in.. that is..

on the track where the cage slides there is a hole where a little metal flap stops the cage going back and halts the track..

if your careful you can stuff the SATA cables in there and go straight to the SATA ports.. it can make the cables more hidden.. it also means you dont need to use the plastic slide/flap that covers the lower cage(where ur meant to put the power/sata cables through)
although you seem to have some chunky ass sata cables and im not sure they will fit.. the yellow one are the same but those grey ones are monstrous..

also im using all of the stock fans on mine plus one thin one infront of the lower cage and one on my Tt BigTyphoon.. which means i have heaps of little cables that are way too long.. so what you can do if you have something similar is route them through the little loop that runs along the edge of 5.25" bays, then behind the little bit that says AntecDesign and there is another little hole that is at the start of the lower hd cage track.. and you can route it straight to the PSU..(i also use these for my volt mod wire that goes round to the front of the case...)

the only problem with that last one is that you need to have the cage in its final position before you start that..

oh yeah the sata cable that go round the back of the cage can make it hard to close. but you just have to have them in the right orientation and they will fit.. and the thumbscrew will fit in..
March 5, 2007 3:42:52 PM

Some great suggestions there Pump! I know what you're talking about, I tried a couple of those options when I was initially laying it all out.

My SATA cables...the 2 gray/white ones are the 90-degree ones from Silverstone....extra thick, but I needed the 90-degree....it helps with the the lower cage alot so no bending wires hard, etc.

There are those small slots to fit tiny wires too.....I just bundled mine together and tucked them into the bay behind my fan controller....there's lot of room in there and keeps them out of the way and tightly wrapped.

The one big limitation on the P180 is the lack of slots/holes in sensible, logical places........it would make this case perfect. So instead, I had to create my own slots/holes LOL.

But with careful cabling, the airflow on this case can be great, with all the spots to put fans. And the quietness of the P180 is simply amazing. For those looking for a quiet case with alot of features and attention to detail, it's awesome. But it does require patience. Myself, I enjoyed spending time on it.......was almost therapeutic LOL. Now I need a new project....... ;) 
March 5, 2007 4:08:12 PM

yeah i did the same thing with my extra cables that i didnt use(but didnt want to remove)
such as the audio cables. also if your 12v ATX cable is not long enough to go the big behind route you can (at least on my board) fit it just along where the PCIe ports meet the chipset.

well i tried to do a ASCII diagram but the forum fuggered up the layout.. screw that lets hope you know hwat i meant..



also my m/b has a 4pin power connector for the PCIe slots and you can fit that in there aswell its just a bit tighter. and also makes it a bit hard to get to the chipset fan connector on my board..

another thing i forgot to mention..

the lower cage can also get one Modular(at least on my PSU. Antec SP-500,pretty much a pcie sized pwr plug) cable through a small square hole in the front bottom corner where the middle fan goes.. if you can attach 4power connectors for ur hdds. it gets them out of the way and you dont have to worry that the cable is too short when you rip out the hdd cage and forgot you set the cables through neat and short coz it comes through there anyway..

there is also one other loop hingey bit you can stick cables down..(well you can also do it on the back edge of the 5.25" bays..) on the very front of the case right near the hinge is a metal hinge.. you can actually fit a couple of cables through there. but you need to cut holes for the wires to come out or something to pull the wire to the bottom if your going that far down..
March 5, 2007 5:12:49 PM

how will the scythe do with the ds3 that you own, and i might get?>
March 5, 2007 6:47:08 PM

Quote:
3) A Ninja will fit no problem in this case. The designers actually used a Ninja as the HSF during the design and testing of the case. However, whether the Ninja will interfere with the capacitors, NB, etc depends on your motherboard, not the case. It fits in the case, but each motherboard is different. So you'll have to check the Ninja against the mobo pics.


:wink:

Ninja should do just fine....but I can't use one because it'll interfere with my Northbridge heatsink. The Zalman 9500 fits, but it's not my first choice (or second, or third) for a cooler.

If you keep the NB stock, then the Scythe should do just fine. Post in the mobo or cooler section and see if anyone has that combo, I'm sure someone does.
March 6, 2007 9:10:50 PM

well ive got a zalman 9700 in it and it fits with plenty of room to spare so i cant imagine that any other cooler is that big
March 7, 2007 1:52:25 AM

In this one, where you run the cables outside the main sections and into I guess it's the extra drive bay; you didn't need any special mods for that one.
http://img411.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1005384ra5.jpg

I'm not talking about the one that goes all the way up and there's a little hole, just the ones that go into the drive cage. Anyone could do that right?
March 7, 2007 2:41:44 AM

Well, actually I did.......a simple cut though. For the upper drive cage area and mobo (power cable, etc) I just notched out a simple square slot where the HDD cage meets the mobo area at the back.....so the big power cable and the molex cables could fit through.....just to the right of the coiled wires on the left side of the photo. That's the back of the hdd cage....made a cut there inward and removed that metal slot I cut, then the wires could fit inside. Otherwise the case wouldn't close.......near the white padding...

For the lower HDD cage, it's a simple cut beside the wind fan...in the metal divider. Then feed the power and SATA cables in. Done. That one was pretty simple.
March 7, 2007 5:17:29 AM

Excellent post.

Time to get busy :D 
March 21, 2007 6:54:53 PM

Bumped by request.
March 22, 2007 10:45:18 PM

This is quite the endeavor. Beautiful job!

My order came in from newegg today. Everything except the power supply, which shipped from TN instead of NJ. It should be in tomorrow.

Beyond learning by example, any specific suggestions? Thanks in advance ...

VGA EVGA 7900GS KO 256-P2-N624-AR R (90 day step-up-will be 8800 soon)
MB GIGABYTE GA-965P-DS3 P965 775
CPU INTEL|C2D E4300 1.8G 775 2M R
MEM 1Gx2|PATRIOT 240P PDC22G6400LLK
HD 160G|WD 7K 8M SATA2 WD1600AAJS % x2
DVD BURN LITEON|SH-16A7S-06 BK R (sata optical)
CASE ANTEC|P180 SIL RT
PSU SEASONIC|SS-550HT 550W RT
March 22, 2007 11:11:07 PM

Nice specs you got there!

I suppose it depends on how hardcore you want to go........get out the tools or not? That makes a difference.

If you're not getting out the tools, you can do like my old setup before I decided to go hardcore. Here's how to cable the P180 if you don't want to break out the hacksaw......it's geared toward the Gigabyte DS3 mobo but can work for any mobo really:

-keep the unused cables down in the bottom PSU chamber, wrapped by the PSU. Pull up the necessary cables through the middle flange, and put 2 zip ties around the bundle: 1 below in the lower chamber before they come up through the slot, and 1 zip tie above, to keep everything tight so they fit through the slot nicely.

-now, with all the necessary cables sitting loose in the upper chamber, then your 24-pin cable goes to the upper right header on the DS3 mobo. The 4-pin ATX cable would have to snake around your PCI-e card and up to the header, going along the audio connectors.

-the SATA cables would split off the bundle and go down into the lower hdd cage. Pull the slack on the SATA cables behind the back of the lower hdd cage.

-that leaves the IDE cable and molex connectors......IDE is a pain on the DS3 mobo since the header is at the bottom. Try to do the stock IDE cable nicely, or buy a rounded IDE cable.....take your pick. Not ideal, but it'll work.

-leaves the molex......keep these tight along the edges of the case. Tie or tape them down. Route your upper and rear exhaust fan cables along the top (inside) of the case and then back behind the upper 5.25 cage. Route the lower ones along the bottom edge of the mobo and shove the slack behind the middle-chamber hdd cage or into the 3.5" bay....that's a good place to hide excess slack.

That about covers it. Should work for most mobos, the principles still apply. Some mobos have better header locations, like the ASUS P5B-DX....easier to work with the IDE cable. But all things considered, the above instructions are probably the most efficient way to get the P180 cables neatly without using tools to slice and dice ;) 

Try to pull cables' slack behind the upper 5.25" cage, and tuck wires into the 3.5" bay. Push stuff tight and out of the way, zip tie cables to the cages to keep them there once their in place. Don't be afraid to get creative with your routing, as long as it works! Tie things down, tape them if you have to. Keep patient, it will take time to get the job done well. But in the end, you'll be happy with a successful cable job. :) 

Good luck!
March 23, 2007 9:19:52 PM

quick question...I noticed the way your Noctua fans were facing...is the wind current going front to back or back to front? I was under the impression the side of the fan with the label is the back of the fan.
March 23, 2007 9:32:35 PM

They intake from front of the case and push out through the back.

If I recall correctly (my fans are installed, so I haven't pulled them out to look), to find which direction is which, take a careful look along the fan frame....you should see two arrows: 1 is direction of fan rotation, 1 is direction of airflow. Then position the fan to point the direction you want ;) 


[edit: just pulled out the hard drive tray....yep, the arrow's there to show direction of airflow. Just look carefully...it'll be in the middle of the frame, on one side, along the flat "bottom/outside" of the frame]
March 24, 2007 3:43:59 AM

Nice job. You inspired me to redo the original wiring mess on my P180 and it now looks much better. I haven't reached the point where I am ready to start cutting. At least I know I can use a simple cheap saw instead of having to invest in a Dremel setup like others I have seen who did similar mods to your own. I was using a small saw this afternoon to cut off a tiny piece on some new Yate Loon fans I got to replace the Antecs and managed to slice right into my thumb. Nothing like fresh blood on your computer desk to kill the modding efforts for the day.

This is not an easy case to work with as it is fairly cramped alhtough you would never guess that without taking the covers off. I would also disagree with those who claim it is dead silent although I realize that really depends more on your choice of components. I have so far replaced my video card fan/heatsink with a (expensive) fanless one and, after stopping the blood flow, replaced the top two fans with Yate Loons. The top fan is only screwed in with two screws and held in place on the other side with a pair of metal clips/slots that the fan rests on. The video card obviously is no longer a source of noise but I can't hear any difference in the case fans. The stock fan on the Intel Duo Core is pretty low noise so I doubt I can improve much on that. And my OCZ is going to be around for a while so I am stuck with its clearly audible fan. If I did it again I would have gone with the Antec 900 so I could at least have a light show. Still, the P180 is a class act as long as you don't expect miracles.
March 24, 2007 4:41:13 AM

I agree. The P180 isn't silent, but it sure is a heckuva lot better than most of the thin steel or aluminum cases. But you are quite right, it depends alot on your component selection: put the Tri-cool fans on Hi. Then put them on Lo. There is a BIG difference in noise, regardless of how good the P180 is at blocking out some noise. So the P180 is a piece of the "quiet puzzle", and it certainly won't solve loud HSF/case/GPU fans. Getting quiet fans is the best and cheapest solution to making a case quiet. A good case certainly helps though ;) 

As for your comment about the 900 for some show......I've often wondered what the P180 would be like with a window LOL. I'm sure most people would consider that blasphemous though.......I used to have a bling case, completely tricked out with UV, LED, UV cabling, you name it. Maybe it was a phase I was going through. Or that my toddler would incessantly go after the lights in my case and knock the stinkin tower over LOL. He doesn't both with the 180 though....too "plain" for him to bother ;) 

As for blood on the mobo......yep, been there done that. My knucles were all cut up when I was finished LOL. I'm really not much of a handyman that way....probably more of a "Tim the Toolman" type hehe.
March 29, 2007 9:09:47 AM

Firstly, thanks for this thread, I'm building right now my new system and this was most helpful.
I ordered a P180B, and received what seems to be an early P182 case: It has the speed controls for the top tricools mounted outside on the back, and rubber covered holes apparently for liquid cooling.

But the best news is that exactly this kind of cable routing has been made possible with the stock case, as there are big premade holes in the right places of the motherboard plate, small tabs behind to tie the cables and that notch that let the cables bypass the PSU chamber "window" and go straight behind.
March 29, 2007 2:17:07 PM

You lucky bugger :p 

Too bad they didn't do those stock slots sooner, would have saved myself alot of hassle and cut-up fingers/knuckles LOL.
March 31, 2007 5:11:20 AM

SKYGUY, YOU'RE TEH AWESOME

i just my p180b in, and like lurb, i got those 'revisions'. but skyguy, i have a quick question: will an 8800gtx fit as snugly as your beaut gts, or will i have to weld a hideous box to the front of my new case?
March 31, 2007 2:11:42 PM

Another lucky bugger!! Stop making me jealous!! :p 

Thanks for the compliment, much appreciated. Hope this info helps some P180 owners out there.

A GTX will easily fit. The only thing is that you will probably need to remove the upper hard drive cage "slots", so the card can fit through. If that's not enough, just remove the whole upper hard drive cage, and that beast will fit no problem :) 

I highly recommend putting a 120mm intake fan up there though, near the front of the case where the upper cage used to be. That extra air will really help feed that GTX, and will also improve overall case airflow in a front-to-back configuration. The wires may be more visible where the cage used to be, but that's easily fixed with some zip ties and a bit of patience ;) 

Good luck!
March 31, 2007 4:57:23 PM

sweet! i have 3 more case fans in my order; hopefully, i can keep the hdd cage in there and add an additional 120mm like you have blowing right onto the gtx.

and i like that little screw box they have attached to that cage, what a perfect little stash box. :lol: 

thanks a lot, you fly skyguy!
April 1, 2007 10:58:12 PM













Not much room....
















April 7, 2007 6:25:46 AM

my install got finished today, and needless to say i was excited for it. i thought i'd share some of my post build pics as cabling it like flyguy indeed takes much more patience than my friend youri and i had in us.. but we did a bang up job in my opinion.







i have 2 120mm fans on shipment right now and vista is being gay with my ide optical drive [can't install supreme commander!!!!!!!!!], but the build is mostly done.

intel e6600
evga 680i mobo
bfg 8800gts oc2
patriot 4gb ddr2800 [2gb sticks]
wd 1tb [2x500gb]
thermaltake 750w psu
April 7, 2007 11:55:57 AM

@hieuhef: looks pretty good. I didn't see any drilling like with some other pics in this thread. Those rectangular slots in the MB tray look to be from the factory. Is that the "updated" version of the p180 and if so where did you buy it and was there any markings on the box to let you know it was the updated version?

Also, what hs is that?
April 7, 2007 12:28:22 PM

That HSF is da beast, the Tuniq Tower ;) 

Ya, those rectangular slots are factory-made.....Antec copied me!! LOL. Actually, the placement of those slots make perfect sense for the P180.....it's basically the only place to do them to improve cable management.

Hieu, looks good. Try tying down some of the slack there. Good job for a P180 virgin!!! LOL ;) 
April 7, 2007 2:59:20 PM

thanks guys! the encouragement is appreciated, especially being a p180 nub! my friend and i struggled for about 10 minutes to get the 8-pin cpu plug into the mobo because i had installed the tuniq before anything else. ingenuity, strong fingers, and 3 chopsticks later, it's in :x [<-asian face]

and skyguy is right, this is the revised p180 board from antec, no modding required.. unless they boxed p182s' by accident in a p180 box, you'd have to call newegg up for that :p 

and what sucks about all of this? i don't think i applied the tuniq correctly. probably didn't tighten it enough, because my temps are floating around 35c at idle and 41c at loads. it will be the death of me to take out the mobo, but alas, i think i must.

remember! if anyone is reading this, tighten that sucker down!
April 7, 2007 3:12:23 PM

Dude, 35/41 for your chip are great temps.
April 7, 2007 5:47:44 PM

you know, you're right, they're good temps, and i went back in, took out the fan from the tuniq, removed the ram, my gpu, etc. to tighten the thumb screws.

the one that gave me an issue was located on the top left, in which i had about 1.5" of clearance all around because of the case design of the p180, so it was hard as hell to get it tightened. now i'm looking at 28c idle and 38c load on a stock e6600, and it'll get better as the artic silver 5 sets in. things are looking great in the land of pc enthusiasts :p 
April 10, 2007 1:05:31 PM

Excellent cable management mate. Well done.
April 19, 2007 7:47:28 AM

So is there anyway to tell which P180B cases have the cable management, other than opening the badboy up?
April 19, 2007 3:22:27 PM

Fastin - I'm not sure, but I bought my P180B from newegg about 2 months ago and mine has the MB tray cut outs and the 2 holes in the back for water cooling... so I think I have the updated one. I still have the box sitting right here and the only clue I can find on the outside of the box is on the side right below the barcode it say "P-180B V1.1" The v1.1 could be a clue that it's the updated version.
April 19, 2007 3:39:14 PM

lawl, my box shows the standard p180, but i got the "revised" or p182. honestly, it seems cheaper to produce one case from the same manufacturing process. makes sense that they would do so.

also got mine from newegg about a month ago.
April 21, 2007 8:20:58 PM

skyguy thanks for starting this great P180 thread! It helps me inmensly, especially because I also use the same mobo. I also was a bit displeased to see the IDE cable like so. I am tempted to go buy a SATA DVD drive so I can rid myself of IDE altogether finally. somehow I have decided to route my main ATX power connector over my video card and not around and behind in the back of the case like you did...that is going to be moving shortly...I think what is mostly clogging up my setup is my STAT cable and HDD power cable in a big mess under the video card...I will post a pic of where I am now and maybe I can get some advice as to what you did and what i did...and why I don't know how to do what you did :( 

One more related question. I plugged in my USB cable from the case to the USB header on the mobo..and only one of the USB ports work on the front of the case. is this normal?
April 21, 2007 9:41:07 PM

One question? I was looking at the P180 case at CompUSA (just to see it up close) and I noticed that the front door hinge seems to be plastic. Yikes, the way I stumble around at times, I'm afraid I'd break the damn thing off.

Any of you guys with that box have any problems/issues with the plastic hinge?
April 21, 2007 10:02:14 PM

Quote:
One question? I was looking at the P180 case at CompUSA (just to see it up close) and I noticed that the front door hinge seems to be plastic. Yikes, the way I stumble around at times, I'm afraid I'd break the damn thing off.

Any of you guys with that box have any problems/issues with the plastic hinge?


I think that if you fall onto the open hinge, that will probably break it. Otherwise, usual every day open closing, some up and down shearing force on the hinge seems like it'll hold up well :)  I love the magnets that keep the door shut btw!
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