watercooling do's and dont's
i am currently putting together my first watercool system. so far i brought a swiftech apogee gt for the cpu and also brought a d5 pump. i need recommendations on what type of reservoir i should buy because i want one that can be mounted externally. also what type of radiator should i buy i will have a cpu and nb in my loop and be using 60-70cfm fans i hate noise. so should i use a 2 fan or 3 fan radiator and what company makes good ones. if it makes a difference i own a evga 680i motherboard with an e6600. please help
No gpu block?
Rad: if u hate noise get the biggest u can afford. Something that will use 3x 120mm fans. Oil coolder/heater cores off ebay are cheaper. Add use the biggest fans u can, they move more air and lowwer RPM = less noise.
Rez... fark... dunno. I had an ext rez in my previous steup. It was an ice tea bottle . Cut holes in at difetent heights and sealed with silicon. Didnt look pretty but worked AWESOME. Was gonna tidy it up by building a nuclear powerplant cooler tower over it :twisted: but moved everything internal before i got around to it.
Also... PLEASE use good hose like Tygon, trust me u wont regret it.
You can purchase tubing from a number of sites. Petrastechshop.com is a favorite of mine. Their customer service can't be beat. Their prices are reasonable. If I want it delivered very quickly, I order from Frozencpu.com since they're in my state. Performance-pcs.com is another store I look through sometimes. I'm currently using primaflex/primoflex?. It's very flexible but not as clear as Tygon. I opted for flexibility.
I tried fluidxp but after a few days I noticed a reddish brown buildup. It was cloudy and it just floated in the loop until I turned on the pump. It's causing my temps to hit 58C. I'm flushing it out and using distilled water with pentosin g11 and a drop of biocide to keep the algae away. Sure, non conductive is neat but a properly built loop should not spring a leak. I still have half a container of fluidxp but I'm going with my own mix this time around. If you want to really go with non conductive stuff, look up Innovatek Protekt(sp?). I've heard pretty good things about it.
I'm using a single radiator 1x120. It's a Black Ice Xtreme. I have it mounted internally and I'm using a t/line so I don't have a reservoir. Until I get an exact reading on my temps after the flush I'm not going to say what I think about internally mounted rads but at least it looks clean .
Anyway, good luck with your build. I'm still kind of new but it's a lot of fun and you'll learn a LOT in the process. Also look up information on how to flush a system clean. It's a process you should at least have a plan of attack for when the time comes.
Pentosin is a German made coolant that is used in cars . You can get some at VW or BMW dealers I believe (correct me if I'm wrong here people). The biocide is something that can be found in pet stores. It's specifically used for algae but believe me it's harmful to all forms of life :wink:
Here's a link: http://www.petrastechshop.com/wacoac.html
If you have any questions, call the store directly. You'll get someone name Quoc. Nice guy. Has answers and he's the customer service department. PTS is one of the rare stores I don't mind giving money to...since they actually earn it [/shamlessplug]. You can find the pentosin at the top of the page and the biocide to the right.
hey op. I hate doing this to this forum, but you need to check out my guide over at anandtech.
It has exactly what a noobie needs to do and what to do after getting your blocks.
I am aware there is a guide on this forum, however more info means more power to you.
And yes i am the author of that, and those are all my rigs.
as for blocks and parts, a petrastechshop elite kit, will blow any kit out of the water. DDC-2 with 1/2 custom inlet is a hard pump to match. Also the radiator is swiftech's which is ranked second below thermochills.
Thermochills are majorly expensive, but worth every penny if you can afford it.
Now block selection, you have 2 to pick from in the CPU class. Accelerators and low restriction. This needs to be guided by your pump. Accelerators for obvious reasons require a strong pump. The D-Tek fusion in that kit listed above uses a low restriction pump, however rumors on XS forums leads me to believe d-tek will release accelertors for these blocks!
Another good block to look at is the apogeeGT. Another low restriction block. I recomend staying away from accelerators until you know your loop fairly well. They tend to get clogged with poor maintence.
Lastly, there are two different setups for h2o cooling. I cant stress this enough. Only two guides i have read even mentions of the second build style. You get either super quiet, or super performance. You cant have both. Most people will find a sweet spot inside the middle somewhere. But as the cliche says, you cant have fire without getting burned!.
Examples of two different setups:
This is a performance setup with dual pumps and dual rads.
This is how a uber quiet setup should look like.
Heres how they both look side by side.
SEE there tubed up and structured differently. SO PLAN what you want. Before you decide on what to build.
The quiet setup would be the easy design, and what most people use with just stronger fans. The performance setup has GFX in design, so the GFX cards gets its own rad.
Hope this helps.
I'd just get an Exos 2 and be done with it. Reservoir, pump, fans, and radiator all in one tidy box that minds its own business on top of your case. I know Tom's recently glorified Koolance, but to me that would be the most hassle free while still giving excellent performance, as this thing is completely case independent.
Quote:WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO COOL MOSFETS ON BOARD I SEE SOME PEOPLE DO IT AND OTHERS DONT IS THIS REALLY NEEDED AND HOW WILL I BENEFIT
im assumming your talking about the 8800GTS/GTX
the reason is because stock heat sink, had mosefet coolers built in. When you removed that cooling unit, the mosefets are now not being cooled.
This is why you need the sinks on the mosfets.
Now if your talkinga bout the voltage regulators on the mobo, same rule applies. The cooler you can run those regulators/mosfet, the higher overclock you can attain.
Also at the koolance person.
Koolance blows. That kit can bite me. Its nothing but a toy.
And even then, you can get way better for cheaper. The only thing id even think of cooling with a koolance is a xbox360.
Otherwise tuniq tower FTW!
Im gonna quote maxracers comment on cheap waterkits.
Dont get a cheap kit, its like a cheap hooker. Your gonna cry and complain because you expected more but just got the basic blow.
there are no waterblocks to my knowledge that has the 680 reference design mosfet waterblock.
Also i highly doubt you'll need it.
I personally use a evercool aluminum 60x60x10mm fan right in front of the fins. This works very well as the alu picks up the additional heat, and blows the fins cool as well.
I highly doubt you'll need to watercool them. Fugger seemed to do pretty well with his insane OC with it just standing out in air. Of course his chip was on phase tho :P
Quote:AND ALSO SHOULD I LAP IF IT ALREADY HAS A MIRROR FINISH
the GT should most likely be relapped. Gabe, the owner of swiftech pledges that his blocks will come dead flat.
As for the cpu, i wouldnt lap it just yet. Before you start putting stuff on, i would pop the OEM hsf on it, and dry run the cpu. See if it perfect. Install windows while its on air, and do a orthos run.
Dont lap anything until you confirmed your chip isnt messed up. Remember, this is the only part air has a hugh advantage over water. Its when doing it to a completely new system.
Also i should not, the moment you lap your cpu, there goes your warrenty. This is why i didnt buy retail :P