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Can't get into BIOS (No signal on monitor). Any help appreci

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April 2, 2007 6:48:32 AM

Can't get into BIOS (No signal on monitor). Any help appreciated

I am building a new system, I think I got every thing covered (obviously I missed something but don't know what); put everything in place, hook up every cable correctly, but when I turn on the system, there is no reaction on the monitor (Monitor is on and cable is securely in place). I know the system suppose to go into BIOS even though I have not yet install OS, but apparently there is no signal go into my monitor, it just keep telling me to check signal cable.

-I am pretty sure the parts I bought are compatible for this motherboard (Asus P5B)
-I am pretty sure I install CPU and cooling fan correctly. And the CPU fan is going when I turn on the system.
-Motherboard LED is on, so that means the motherboard power is on.
-Video card: I am sure it is secure in place and the fan on video card is going, so I am sure card is functional

Please help me as what trouble shooting steps I can do to find the problem, any help is appreciated.


System info:
-Motherboard: Asus P5B
-Video card: EVGA e-GeForce 8800 GTS (PCI-E)
-Memory: Patriot 2GB DDR2 PC2-6400 800 MHz (1GB x 2)
-OS: XP SP2 (haven't install yet because I can't get into bios)
-DVD rom is up and ready
-HD is ready too (new HD with nothing on it)

Thank you very much
April 2, 2007 6:51:27 AM

You did not list the PSU.
Did you plug in the extra Plug on the Video card( or both) the 8800 needs extra power.
April 2, 2007 3:43:45 PM

I have Antec SmartPower 2.0 (500 Watt ATX 12V), should be enough power for all the components, isn't it?

And yes, the extra power cord is on the Video card (the fan on the card is going)

Thank you
Related resources
April 2, 2007 3:44:24 PM

Yeah, double checked all the connections, they are all good.

I have Antec SmartPower 2.0 (500 Watt ATX 12V), should be enough power for all the components, isn't it?

Thank you
April 2, 2007 3:54:23 PM

Quote:
Yeah, double checked all the connections, they are all good.

I have Antec SmartPower 2.0 (500 Watt ATX 12V), should be enough power for all the components, isn't it?

Thank you


OK, but is the video connection correct? I've seen people jam them into serial ports before.

If the display says no signal then it is not connected to a proper video source. Is there on-board video? I am not familier with that MB.
If so connect to it first to do your setup.
April 2, 2007 10:06:47 PM

I've read your PSU guide, which was informative.

But his system should be able to at least POST with that card, in my opinion.

The only time the card would actually put the PSU under load is when playing a game or using 3marks bench on it.



I use that P3 Kill A Watt, and find that my system doesn't even use that much, 130-140 watts on boot up. The only time my system goes under load is 3dmarks (219Watts was max I saw for 6800GS 18amps). Even in Windows at Idle my system shows only 115 watts being consumed.

I have no doubt that the 8800 will use allot more power, but that is only when its being called for the task in a game or benchmark.

@u778877

For that MB, did you check Asus website on the CPU support it has? Perhaps you may have a bios version that may not support the CPU your trying to install. Asus may need to send you a chip to replace on that MB (close to the battery), unless you have another 775 socket CPU you could use to flash it.
April 2, 2007 10:34:36 PM

I'm not discounting anything already said, but have you examined the RAM? It's often the last component checked. Try booting with a different stick and see what happens. I know that the POST beeps disagree...but it can't hurt to test and see what happens.
April 2, 2007 10:43:29 PM

Ah.. ya, the voltage on the RAM could be another booger to mess with. :lol: 

Read people using cheaper RAM to up the voltage so their other RAM would power up properly.

Good call.
April 2, 2007 11:13:43 PM

remove the ram, leave it powered on for a minute, there should be a beep to indicate that everythings working, i.e. mobo,psu, cpu are fine

Ive had this before but it was because my PSU is an FSP 20/24 pin and mobo was 20 pin and i plugged the wrong 4 pin connector into the 12V connector on the mobo( the one required to POST ). It all looked right but it wasnt :) 

Does your keyboard shift key work? if not,its not the gfx card, besides if theres enough power to startup the gpu it will post and start flashing an error on the screen, happens if i forget to connect the pcie power connector on my 7800gtx

Ive had a faulty mobo, where everything looked fine, fans spin, power on mobo is on, drives spin up , keyboard lights flash but it wouldnt post
April 2, 2007 11:27:16 PM

Quote:
Can't get into BIOS (No signal on monitor). Any help appreciated

I am building a new system, I think I got every thing covered (obviously I missed something but don't know what); put everything in place, hook up every cable correctly, but when I turn on the system, there is no reaction on the monitor (Monitor is on and cable is securely in place). I know the system suppose to go into BIOS even though I have not yet install OS, but apparently there is no signal go into my monitor, it just keep telling me to check signal cable.

-I am pretty sure the parts I bought are compatible for this motherboard (Asus P5B)
-I am pretty sure I install CPU and cooling fan correctly. And the CPU fan is going when I turn on the system.
-Motherboard LED is on, so that means the motherboard power is on.
-Video card: I am sure it is secure in place and the fan on video card is going, so I am sure card is functional

Please help me as what trouble shooting steps I can do to find the problem, any help is appreciated.


System info:
-Motherboard: Asus P5B
-Video card: EVGA e-GeForce 8800 GTS (PCI-E)
-Memory: Patriot 2GB DDR2 PC2-6400 800 MHz (1GB x 2)
-OS: XP SP2 (haven't install yet because I can't get into bios)
-DVD rom is up and ready
-HD is ready too (new HD with nothing on it)

Thank you very much


You can buy a PC Power and Cooling 750 dirrect from the company for only $169....call them and ask to talk with a Tech.
April 3, 2007 12:24:58 AM

I am having the same problem. the only difference is that the system has been up and running fine for 3 months. i have tried swapping out video cards and different ram, but still has the problem. all fans and drives power on i just dont get a signal to the screen. any help would be much appreciated.
April 3, 2007 12:36:56 AM

Quote:
I am having the same problem. the only difference is that the system has been up and running fine for 3 months. i have tried swapping out video cards and different ram, but still has the problem. all fans and drives power on i just dont get a signal to the screen. any help would be much appreciated.

dude, if youve been up and running for months without issue until now something in your hardware has died

Heres direct from asus:
"Please help me to check if the 24+4pin power connector is well connected to the PSU. If yes, please use the least components, only CPU, 1 memory and graphic card in the motherboard, and reset CMOS default by:
1.Turn OFF the computer and unplug the power cord.
2.Remove the onboard battery.
3.Move the jumper cap from pins 1-2(default) to pins 2-3. Keep the cap on pins 2-3 for about 10 seconds, then move the cap back to pins 1-2.
4.Reinstall the battery.
5.Plug the power cord and turn ON the computer.
"
April 3, 2007 10:03:27 PM

lmimmfn, thanks for the advice man, i was bout ready to rma the mobo. i did what you suggested and bam it worked. this was a pc i built for my lil cousin, i have no idea what he did to mess the bios up. thanks again cheers 8)
April 3, 2007 10:49:17 PM

glad to hear it dude, youre luckier than me,lol
April 6, 2007 9:20:49 AM

I'm having the exact same problem as u778877

just finished putting the system together and have rechecked everything. i pretty much have the same system

Motherboard: Asus P5N32-E-SLI-Plus
Video Card: Asus Nvidia Geforce 8800 GTS
Memory: Corsair 2GB DDR2 XMS2-6400 800 mhz
PSU: Antec ATX Truepower 550W trio
CPU: Intel ATX E6600 Core 2 duo
DVD-rom drive is fine
HD is fine and brand new

the monitor is connected properly (dell 24inch) and its basically telling me its receiving no signal from the computer so I can't even get to the bios.

any help would be greatly appreciated because I'm currently stumped for an answer..
April 6, 2007 8:03:36 PM

Heh.. I don't think the other guy has got back to give an up date.

There is a good chance that the RAM may present the problem. Not saying the RAM is bad, but the MB may not supply enough voltage for it.

Do you know what the default voltage the MB does vs the default voltage required for the RAM?

If any of you guys could get your hands on some cheap RAM that will run off of 1.8 volts you could get it to POST and get in the bios to set the voltage manually, so you can run the RAM you intended to use.

The only other thing to try, is to run the MB outside the PC case un-mounted on card board to rule out any short or imperfection of the PC case that prevents the video card from seating properly.
April 6, 2007 9:53:27 PM

feckin hampsters lol, double post
April 6, 2007 10:07:34 PM

Quote:
Heh.. I don't think the other guy has got back to give an up date.

There is a good chance that the RAM may present the problem. Not saying the RAM is bad, but the MB may not supply enough voltage for it.

If thats the case, all he needs to do is remove all the ram, turn on the PC, after a while there will be a contineous beep to indicate no ram, if theres no beep its something else it will give an indication if its in the POST process but failing for some reason
April 6, 2007 10:16:37 PM

Quote:
Heh.. I don't think the other guy has got back to give an up date.

There is a good chance that the RAM may present the problem. Not saying the RAM is bad, but the MB may not supply enough voltage for it.

If thats the case, all he needs to do is remove all the ram, turn on the PC, after a while there will be a contineous beep to indicate no ram, if theres no beep its something else it will give an indication if its in the POST process but failing for some reason

Although that is very true about the beeps, some MB's don't have a speaker (depending on the design or the PC case), or the user forgot to hook up the darn thing. :lol: 

One thing that does cause a blank screen is RAM problems, and it won't cause any system beeps to happen.

But then there are so many causes as well that can be overlooked.
April 6, 2007 10:20:52 PM

Quote:
...
If any of you guys could get your hands on some cheap RAM that will run off of 1.8 volts you could get it to POST....

All RAM that is DDR2 should work at 1.8V (although perhaps not at the advertised speeds/timings), otherwise it is by definition defective. In that case, there shouldn't be any problem getting it replaced under warranty.
April 6, 2007 10:23:33 PM

ben, go ahead and bench-test it with a minimal setup: MB, CPU, cpu cooler, one stick of RAM, graphics card, all out of the case and connected to the PS.
April 6, 2007 10:24:25 PM

Quote:
...
If any of you guys could get your hands on some cheap RAM that will run off of 1.8 volts you could get it to POST....

All RAM that is DDR2 should work at 1.8V (although perhaps not at the advertised speeds/timings), otherwise it is by definition defective. In that case, there shouldn't be any problem getting it replaced under warranty.

I understand that it should work.. but of all the other posts I read about switching to cheaper memory out to adjust the bios memory voltage false?
April 6, 2007 10:27:45 PM

The switching is just to different memory, not necessarily cheaper memory. Of course, since you likely don't want to keep using that other memory, you usually want to spend as little as possible on it. It's not an issue of cheaper memory working any better.
April 6, 2007 10:34:10 PM

Quote:
The switching is just to different memory, not necessarily cheaper memory. Of course, since you likely don't want to keep using that other memory, you usually want to spend as little as possible on it. It's not an issue of cheaper memory working any better.


Errr.. never did say to use cheaper memory as a definite replacement, just to get it to POST so you can access the bios, to adjust settings.

And most of what I read is based upon cheaper or slower memory. So we are basically saying the same thing.
April 6, 2007 10:41:05 PM

My point was just that cheap or expensive memory makes no difference on whether it will POST or not. Non-defective expensive memory should also work fine at 1.8V and allow you to POST, so if he's got expensive memory lying around, it's fine to use that, too.
So yes, I think we can all agree that trying *different* memory is a useful thing, to see if there is a problem with the memory.
April 6, 2007 10:55:11 PM

Well... If you read back, I did ask what the MB's and memory default voltage settings are, which both didn't reply back yet. So my point is basically the MB's ability to POST with what the memory voltage requirements are, regardless if its cheap or expensive. So the kind of memory can matter on a new build.

And most of the DDR2 800 memory that I've seen do require 2-2.1 volts, athough there are that are some that are 1.8, and others 1.8-2 volts as well as 1.9-2.1.

The majority DDR2 533 memory that I've seen are 1.8, which are slower/cheaper memory. Also again, there are some 533 module that do require 2 volts, so that could still purpose the same problem, depending on the MB.

But who's knows... perhaps memory voltage may not be the problem after all.. It can be just about anything.
April 7, 2007 12:27:34 AM

Quote:


Although that is very true about the beeps, some MB's don't have a speaker (depending on the design or the PC case), or the user forgot to hook up the darn thing. :lol: 

One thing that does cause a blank screen is RAM problems, and it won't cause any system beeps to happen.

But then there are so many causes as well that can be overlooked.

well my P5N32-E SLI wouldnt post, i sent it back as i tried absolutely everything, but the ASUS P5N32-E SLI does beep as i contacted ASUS about it, im not sure about the plus version but im sure it will also
April 7, 2007 1:31:04 AM

Quote:
...
And most of the DDR2 800 memory that I've seen do require 2-2.1 volts, athough there are that are some that are 1.8, and others 1.8-2 volts as well as 1.9-2.1.

My point is that this is not strictly true. ALL non-defective DDR2 memory will work at 1.8V. What you're referring to are manufacturer-sanctioned overclock speeds/timings, which may very well require non-standard voltages. However, those same modules, if not defective, should work fine at 1.8V at some speed/timing combination programmed into their SPD.

Quote:
...The majority DDR2 533 memory that I've seen are 1.8, which are slower/cheaper memory.

Actually, memory that runs at its advertised speed/timings at 1.8V is actually *better* quality memory than other memory that requires elevated voltage to reach that speed/timings.
April 7, 2007 8:48:35 PM

Quote:
My point is that this is not strictly true. ALL non-defective DDR2 memory will work at 1.8V. What you're referring to are manufacturer-sanctioned overclock speeds/timings, which may very well require non-standard voltages. However, those same modules, if not defective, should work fine at 1.8V at some speed/timing combination programmed into their SPD.


If it's strictly not true, then I must have been misinformed/mislead from what I've read, since it mainly happens to AMD system MB that were described as they are picky on the RAM that the user installed. I'd only assumed that it perhaps could be possible to Intel setups.

No, I wasn't referring to overclock speeds/timings. What I was referring to was the actual voltage I saw on memory specs on NewEggs for DDR2 533/800 modules. Like for example on this search:

Text Search Terms: Patriot DDR2 800

The majority of the Patriot RAM found there, show the voltage to be 2 volts, but most are the extreme version, the reg states only 1.8 volts. I was under the impression that the RAM's voltage shown in its specs is needed in order to run stable. So, if you had RAM that required 2 volts but the MB is giving 1.8, I just thought it could be possible the MB would not POST.

What do you mean by defective? That it was mishandled perhaps, or there's a bunch of defective RAM being sold ?

Quote:
And most of the DDR2 800 memory that I've seen do require 2-2.1 volts, athough there are that are some that are 1.8, and others 1.8-2 volts as well as 1.9-2.1.

Actually, memory that runs at its advertised speed/timings at 1.8V is actually *better* quality memory than other memory that requires elevated voltage to reach that speed/timings.

When I said cheaper, I ment it was more affordable. Not that it was a cheap quality.

Now I was only purposing that it is a possibility. But since you say its strictly not true, I suppose it must be another problem, that they ( u778877 & benjiv1) over looked.

So why don't you give other advice, rather then pick on my comments?
April 9, 2007 6:41:17 PM

Quote:
I was under the impression that the RAM's voltage shown in its specs is needed in order to run stable. So, if you had RAM that required 2 volts but the MB is giving 1.8, I just thought it could be possible the MB would not POST.

Not strictly true, its recommended for stability, but look at the ASUS P5N32-E SLI, Asus site recommends Corsair XMS2 C4 ram, but the mobo is 1.8v by default in the BIOS to support more ram types, but Corsair XMS2 C4 ram is recommended to run at 2.1 volts.

Reading the Corsair help Forum( dont have the link handy ), its only if theres a problem that they recommend setting the ram to the higher voltage

Thats just my 2 cents
April 9, 2007 8:55:27 PM

Quote:
I was under the impression that the RAM's voltage shown in its specs is needed in order to run stable. So, if you had RAM that required 2 volts but the MB is giving 1.8, I just thought it could be possible the MB would not POST.

Not strictly true, its recommended for stability, but look at the ASUS P5N32-E SLI, Asus site recommends Corsair XMS2 C4 ram, but the mobo is 1.8v by default in the BIOS to support more ram types, but Corsair XMS2 C4 ram is recommended to run at 2.1 volts.

Reading the Corsair help Forum( dont have the link handy ), its only if theres a problem that they recommend setting the ram to the higher voltage

Thats just my 2 cents

Where did I say it was strictly true? I said POSSIBLE.

You say... only if theres a problem.

Well... what would that problem be? If it can't POST, obviously you can't go into the bios to raise the voltage.

It almost sounds like you repeated the same thing I said. :?

Anyoo.. GL to the OP and ben.
April 9, 2007 10:17:43 PM

First, let me start by saying that I'm not trying to pick on you, and I think we agree on much -- you've just unintentionally hit my "RAM industry is evil" button.

The fairly recent widespread adoption of DDR2 while DDR2 technology is still developing means that all too often, MBs and RAM modules are not 100% robust and we get MB/RAM combos that don't work together; sometimes it can be tough to figure out if the problem is in the RAM or in the MB. However, in my experience it happens more often with certain brands of RAM (e.g. OCZ) than with others (e.g. Corsair's XMS2 or Kingston), which leads me to think it's mostly a DIMM design/QC issue. The fact that I've had top-end premium RAM cause a MB to not boot and had the problem fixed by having it exchanged for a newer revision of the same RAM under warranty lends support to this. Of course, it's also true that some MBs (for both Intel and AMD CPUs) are much more picky about which RAM they will work with.

My main complaint about the RAM industry, and what I was referring to in my "not strictly true" post, is that they have institutionalized overclocking to the point where much RAM is advertised solely according to its overclocked specs, and many people buying such RAM don't even realize that they are buying RAM that needs to be overclocked to reach the performance they paid for.

The Patriot DDR2-800 module example from your NewEgg link is a classic example of this (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...). Even NewEgg lists it as 2.2V memory. Since this is higher than the DDR2 standard 1.8V, by definition this is a factory-sanctioned overclock spec. If run at 1.8V, there's very little chance it will run at DDR2-800 CL4 stably. Of course, if Patriot (or any of the other manufacturers -- essentially all are guilty of this) listed its "true specs" (at 1.8V), they wouldn't be able to sell it as "DDR2-800 CL4" RAM, and so would likely have to charge a lower price for it.

Now, the RAM manufacturers do try to make sure each module will run OK at SOME speed at 1.8V (so that the RAM can be truthfully called "DDR2" and the system can boot successfully), but they are so focused on the high-speed end that sometimes their modules won't even work at 1.8V. Rather than admit that such a module is defective and so should be exchanged under warranty, manufacturer tech support often pushes the user to boost the RAM voltage. This may allow the system to boot, but the result is to (a)cover up a sizeable incidence of defective DDR2 RAM modules and (b) lead users to think that somehow voltages above 1.8V are "normal" and perhaps even necessary for high-performance DDR2 RAM. If more people returned such modules to the manufacturers for replacement under warranty rather than just accepting a voltage boost, the monetary and reputational costs *might* get the manufacturers to shape up a bit.

My challenge to the memory manufacturers: why won't you publish the speed/latency specs at 1.8V for ALL your RAM? What are you afraid of?

Again, my apologies for seeming to pick on Grimmy when I really had the RAM industry in my sights!
April 9, 2007 11:09:28 PM

Quote:


Where did I say it was strictly true? I said POSSIBLE.

You say... only if theres a problem.

Well... what would that problem be? If it can't POST, obviously you can't go into the bios to raise the voltage.

It almost sounds like you repeated the same thing I said. :?

Anyoo.. GL to the OP and ben.

nah, relax only giving my to cents worth is all, if theres a problem as in stability issue, obviously not not posting :p 
!