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A short story of water cooling Update with bench marks

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April 16, 2007 2:00:13 PM

I had finally built a game machine that I think will last for many years, a machine that could still be upgraded in the future.



The only thing I could see that needed improvement was the cooling solution for my 8800 GTX SLI cards because the stock solution is not adequate. There were times that they would hit 89C while playing games, I don’t think that speaks well for longevity. So I started looking for a solution and came to the conclusion that air was not going to work. I had notice that BFG had water cooled cards that they were selling and knew that it wouldn’t be long before others would start manufacturing similar blocks to replace air coolers. In March Tom’s Hardware had and article “A Beginner's Guide for Water Cooling Your PC” which featured the EXOS-2 external water cooling system and I was impressed by it. I then went to Koolance’s site to see what they had and found they also had a full coverage GPU block for 8800 GTX and it would be available on April 6. So I built an order on their site and patiently waited for the blocks to become available.
I mentioned this on one of the forums on Tom’s Hardware and had a bunch of people tell me how Koolance’s produces were nothing more than over priced toy’s made with crappie material. Well, from what I read on Koolance’s site, I didn’t believe that could be true and when the blocks became available on April 4 I ordered everything from them and again waited patiently six days as it was shipped to me. I thought that the price I paid was reasonable (563.37 + 20.09 shipping) even with the extra parts I ordered to make the external unit detachable, in case I had to make changes to the internal cooling. It all arrived on April 10 nicely packaged, I open it to find everything I ordered and everything looked fine.





I took my time installing the system and thought to my self, that you would have to be a moron to put this water cooling system in your machine and have a leak.









After I installed everything I added the liquid with no problem and ran the pump until all the bubbles were gone.





Now came the moment of true will it really do the job I bought it for. I turned on the machine and about a minute into the boot up on the display there was a message “no video signal”, I thought it must be a driver problem but after 10 minutes of trouble shooting I came to the conclusion that I must have installed the GPU coolers wrong. I was glad I made the external unit detachable and with the 2 extra female shut off vales it was easy to drain the internal loop.



( This problem Has been fixed by Koolance the third one I bought for my triple SLI worked perfectly)
What I found when I took off the first block was unbelievable the surface of the block was not even touching the GPU, there was no thermal grease on it from the GPU and this was true of the other block.
I called Koolance’s tech support and they told me to request and RMA which I did only to find out it would be 24 to 48 hours to get a number so I could ship them back at my own cost. I called them back and asked why, they said it was just a disclaimer but here it is almost 24 hour’s later and I still don’t have a number. I also ask what if the ones they send are bad also will I be left without a gaming machine for weeks on end, answer you can always put the stock coolers on. Really? I think he should’ve thought about that answer a little longer. I sent this part of my review to their support in an email and about 10 minutes later I had a RMA number. I sent off the two water blocks Fed-X next day Friday morning delivery which cost me $64, I know it’s a lot, but if I hadn’t done it that way, it would mean I’d have to wait 2 or 3 weeks in stead of a week.
Friday when I got home from my part time job and checked the Fed-X web site I saw they delivered my GPU water blocks to Koolance at 9am west coast time. I waited until the after noon and called them at 2:30pm there time 4:30 my time and they said they would get them out today. I expected them to ship them back to me at least two day shipping but when I checked with them the following week on Tuesday I found out they shipped them ground and I wouldn’t get them until Thursday. Their customer service is not very good for a mistake they made in their manufacturing; I guess they just don’t really want people buying their stuff.
That gave me plenty of time to dress the wiring inside the system better and I also made the external water tubes longer and refilled the unit. I wanted to mount the EXOS-2 away from the system because case was not made to have anything sitting on top of it. Also I replace the double spaced L-bracket on the GTX cards with a single spaced bracket.





At 2:45 pm the UPS truck pulled up with my coolers and I was ready to install them only to find out I had the same problem. So I immediately called Koolance tech support and this time they told me that the tolerances of the board’s between manufactures was not as tight as it should be so they worked with some boards and not with others. They said they contacted NVIDIA about it but hadn’t hard back from them yet. They said I should grind 1mm off the four stand off’s around the GPU and that would fix the problem. I did as they suggested and installed them and they worked amazingly well, they dropped my idle temps from 70C down to 45C, Serious Sam 2 from a game high 89C down to 69C, none of the games get above what I idled at before. I think a better way for them to fix the problem , rather then have the customer grind down the stand offs, send different size stand offs with the cooling blocks.











Remember if you do this to keep all the parts you take off the graphics in case they should go bad because if your using a card made by EVGA as I am they want it back the way you got it.



Over all I like Koolance’s system, I like the looks of it, the easy of the way it goes together, and I especially like the hose connectors because they make it virtually impossible to have a leak unless you do something really stupid.
April 18, 2007 5:42:32 AM

I looked at the bottom picture and saw only one tube going into the lower video card and I thought to myself, "What's going on here?" A closer look reveals a water link between the two cards like "SLI Watercooling" Neat!

Windows Vista Premium
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 (no OC)
BFG GeForce 8800 GTX OC
Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X2048-6400 2X1GB DDR2-800
Western Digital 150GB Raptor x2
Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro Series
Dell E207WFP & Samsung SyncMaster 213T
Asus Striker Extreme Motherboard
PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool 1KW-SR
Silverstone Temjin TJ07 with window
Pioneer DVR-212D DVD/CD Writer
APC Back-UPS XS 1000
Various trick lighting, rubber grommets, & LEDs
April 19, 2007 2:16:23 PM

bttt
Related resources
April 20, 2007 12:48:30 PM

did you check the card that had no cooling wiht the stock coolers to make sure ti still worked, man, i would eb shit scared if that had happened, i know how hot my x1950xtx gets and i've heard they get even hotter.
April 20, 2007 3:25:12 PM

That's interesting. Hope you can get it all set up. I've heard many times that Koolance's customer service is pretty poor.
April 20, 2007 8:27:08 PM

The tech support was helpful.
April 23, 2007 11:58:29 AM

Is anyone using the Koolance CPU-330 cooling block and what are your temps?
April 23, 2007 12:38:07 PM

I was wondering if you could tell me what water cooling setup you have for your cpu???I'm looking for a decent water cooling system(one better than the one I have).

Dahak
AMD X2-4400+@2.6 TOLEDO
EVGA NF4 SLI MB
2X EVGA 7950GT KO IN SLI
4X 512MB CRUCIAL BALLISTIX DDR500
WD300GIG HD/SAMSUNG 250GIG HD
ACER 22IN WIDESCREEN LCD 1600X1200
THERMALTAKE TOUGHPOWER 850WATT PSU
COOLERMASTER MINI R120
3DMARK05 13,471
April 23, 2007 3:37:05 PM

What water cooling system do you have now? I use the Koolance CPU-330.
April 25, 2007 5:50:59 AM

Well, I was less lucky than you…

I set up a SLI WC with the exact same koolance waterblock. However, as I didn t make any mistake during the setup, I started to use my system.
Because I had vista, I didn t go to check my temp on ntune. That was a terrible mistake, after one hour gaming, I start to see blue dots all over the screen and image flickering!!!
I thought it was again something weird coming from newest Nvidia drivers, but when I re-started the computer….Dots all over the BIOS boot!!!!!

Of course I checked immediately each block to realize that nevertheless I respected Koolance procedure my good artic silver 5 only made a tiny mark on the waterblock…
I have stop using the SETUP and I put back air cooler and waited a few days. Now the graphic cards are working fine again (probably because I hopefully didn t try again).
However I have this useless expensive waterblock and I want to use them again.

Can you please tell me how you grind the square around the GPU? I mean 1 mm grinding need some precision, I don t want to miss something and kill definitely a card. I m sure that next time I ll smell the carbon if it doesn t make proper contact…

Also I had the same problem with the other card when I replaced the air cooler, it seems that the heavy ugly thermal pad is not thick for nothing. Fine layer of artic 5 might be dangerous with some 8800 gtx air cooler. Is there someone who had the same problem?
April 25, 2007 12:41:16 PM



See the four stand offs posts that are around where the GPU would touch the block, take a small hand grinder and grind 1mm or 1/32 of and inch off of each of them. Even if you take a little too much off you will be ok because you’re going to put those screws in first and you can’t over tighten those screws.
I use this software to see my GPU & CPU temps.
http://www.lavalys.com/products/overview.php?pid=3&ps=U...
April 25, 2007 12:50:46 PM



ZOMG! Gravity hack! How did you do that?

Awesome system, wish I had that kind of money.
April 25, 2007 1:09:14 PM



On the bottom of the unit are slots for strapping it to a case I just used wire tires on the cross brace of that table.
April 25, 2007 1:42:12 PM

With some better organization and maybe 1 or 2 more better case fans and your temps could have dropped a lot. Just by looking at the case its a clear indication that there was no airflow which was the main result of your temps being so high. Regardless your watercooling setup looks nice and i'm glad you actually got it all to work in thend.
April 25, 2007 1:49:58 PM

If you will notice there is a raid controller card at the bottom of the mother board that helped trap heat and caused much of the problem and no matter how many fans I put in it, it would not have fixed the problem.
April 25, 2007 2:33:56 PM

Water cooling....... not for the faint of heart or the impatient.
The water chillers I'm building for sale would work great with that system, that's why my rig is so cool. It goes colder but it's not really required. it was 80 F in my room yesterday and my water was at 35 F.
By the way, nice job, play on.
April 26, 2007 1:41:32 AM

Thanks Baddad,

It has been really easy and the system is working fine now.
This koolance waterblock reminds me LS phase change setup where the explanation on the manual is so light about insulation that you have most of the chance to froze you motherboard at your first try (100% warranty with their setup in humid country).
Such a warning about different cards shape should definitely be with the packages of these waterblocks.
Or at least something on their website.
Patience is something required for checking leakages and organizing the case in the way where troubles will be avoided. Watercooling is not difficult thing nowdays especially with the quality of some brands in the market.
Finishing the shape of the waterblock is not really something you guess until you get troubleshooting. You expect it to “fit” the card it is made for.
Still waiting answer from Koolance about this issue and by the way I’ll warn the shops in Akiba about it.
April 26, 2007 2:35:18 AM

I see on Koolance's site that they show that water block out of stock until 4-30 so I think they must be fixing the problem with them. I'm happy that you got yours working, enjoy.
April 26, 2007 1:37:11 PM

BTW where is Akiba?
April 30, 2007 12:32:59 PM

Update.
May 7, 2007 7:36:53 AM

Akiba => Akihabara.
This is large Electronic streets in Tokyo. Lots of PC parts there.
May 7, 2007 12:46:56 PM

Nice to meet you and thanks for the info.
May 7, 2007 4:33:31 PM

Maybe I missed it in the post, I'm working right now and sort of scimming threads but are those two different brands of 8800gtx? the boards look like a different color is why I ask.

Also how much of a performance gain did you see going to SLI from a single card? Or did you ever run it with just one. I always thought sli was more for huge resolutions, what resolution are you running?

That's an awesome setup man.
May 7, 2007 5:43:58 PM

The dark card is the first card I bought from EVGA just after they came out, the second card I bought a couple of months later from EVGA also. They say that there is no difference in how they run but I have notice that the dark one runs about 5C hotter than the lighter one. I run my games in 1920x1200 16x10 and they just look great. With a single 8800 in 1920x1200 with 8x AA it ran a 9724 in 3DMark05 to 16532 in SLI. This is high resolution for 3DMark05 program so using their default settings it ran a 17639. These numbers just help you see there is a difference between the two, but running the same games I was playing when it was just one 8800 is like going from the night into the day light. Its not just for high resolutions, any recently developed game benefits from the use of these cards.
May 7, 2007 9:40:22 PM

I know it's hotly debated but have you used DVI and VGA cables? Did you notice any better picture quality with the DVI?

I know it's usually a biased thing, really need to do a couple double blind studies and see which looks better. If I end up picking one up, I will ask a few friends which they think looks better, without telling them which is which.

Sorry for the threadjack, but it was already heading away from the Koolance story.
May 7, 2007 10:13:43 PM

From what I understand there is some conversion lose from digital to analog and we know that there can be more info in a digital output then in a analog output. I myself have not tested for the difference other then it just seems better.
May 17, 2007 1:10:19 PM

I have now add a Thermaltake side panel with a 250 mm fan to help keep the system board cool.
June 11, 2007 5:06:28 PM

Six page Bump. :lol: 
June 11, 2007 6:13:08 PM

I am using the Swiftech H20-220. Cooling my E6600 and Northbridge. Temps under load average around 45 under load.

Motherboard: EVGA T1
CPU: E6600 L646G494 @ 3.7Ghz. 1:1 Ratio Linked & Synced Voltage 1.44
SPP:1.45volts, MCP: 1.50volts
Memory: Mushkin PC2 8000 4-5-4-11, 2T Voltage 2.1
Swiftech Water Cooling H20-220
Video: One EVGA 8800GTS 320MB
Power Supply: Silverstone 750W
OS: XP Pro
June 11, 2007 7:13:43 PM

That's a really good temp under load for a 6600 OC to 3.7G. My GPU's run cool now but the Koolance CPU-330 cooler that is first in my loop hits 50c under load and thats not OC. I've tried reapplying the thermal grease several times but the temps are always the same.
June 14, 2007 9:01:31 PM

Quote:
I see on Koolance's site that they show that water block out of stock until 4-30 so I think they must be fixing the problem with them. I'm happy that you got yours working, enjoy.


BadDad,

First off...awesome review of your WC setup. I wanted to comment that your thought that their out-of-stock situation might have resolved the standoff issue on the VID-282 didn't turn out to be true. I just finished last night a config very, very similar to yours and while my QX6700 was running really cool I saw in NVMonitor temps of 100C and 170C on my XFX 8800GTXs before I quickly shut down.

I just found this thread and am anixous to drain my loop and pull both blocks and dremel down each standoff. In my (2) VID-282s I received no extra standoffs or even any suggestion that this might be an issue. I just exchanged notes with Tech Support on this and they didn't even mention it (I thought it was the thermal pads....)

So I am off to make the corrections that you did and see if that works. Three quick questions:

1) Did you use the included thermal paste or something else like AS5?
2) How do I replace the dual-slot back bracket on the 8800GTX with one that only takes a single back slot?
3) What part #'s did you use for the shut off nozzles on the back of your rig?

Again...great instruction and very helpful to my situation. Thanks!

--Scott
June 15, 2007 2:06:11 AM

Quote:
1) Did you use the included thermal paste or something else like AS5?
2) How do I replace the dual-slot back bracket on the 8800GTX with one that only takes a single back slot?
3) What part #'s did you use for the shut off nozzles on the back of your rig?


I used OCZ ULTRA 5+ Silver Thermal compound only on the GPU.
The single bracket I got from Koolance pricey
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=0_6...
For the shut off valve male
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=62_...
Female
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=62_...

Hope everything works out for you.
June 15, 2007 2:12:16 AM

I just finished with my "dremel down the standoffs" revision and it seemed to work just as you said it would. Unfortunately I probably took too much off each..but as you said the spring screws help compensate.

I used Artic Silver 5 for my thermal...and now I have 48c/46c on my two 8800GTXs along with 38c on my QX6700 on fan manual setting 5. It seems I have to play with the fan control on the EXOS to get the right temps...but overall I am very, very happy.

I did get a response from Koolance Tech Support...they said "file down the stand offs a bit" (direct quote). No mention of which ones or how far. Scary. Their documentation by their own admission is out of date from what they are shipping and requiring for install.

But if you can get it right (with help like your original post provided) this WC thing can help quite a bit.

Thanks again,

--Scott
June 15, 2007 2:33:19 AM

I just sent their tech support a note asking if they thought this was quality and put a link to this topic.
June 15, 2007 6:07:56 AM

Just want to say you've done a great job and this is a valuable thread
June 24, 2007 6:29:40 AM

Got one of these coolers a few weeks back, had to wait for the wife and kiddies to give me a few moments free to install.

Added in a Thermaltake Tidewater to the block to handle the cooling chores, just as the stock BFG water cooled units do, so installed today, and my 75C idle temps hit 132C for a moment or two.

Shut down, check, and NO AS5 transfer from card to cooler. Put on a REALLY thick coating. back together, and 97C and quickly climbing.

Another quick shutdown, recheck, and a less than bb size connection point. BOO!

Back to stock cooling, but with a thinner Arctic Silver 5 coating(original was thick and ugly), temps did drop to 67c idle, and upper 70's on load, about 6-8C reduction from original stock.

Will attempt the shave over the next few days, hope it works.

Funny, mine is an EVGA card, reference Nvidia to the bone, maybe they checked on a non reference card?
June 24, 2007 7:47:23 AM

WTF did you spend nearly $600 on a piece of crap watercooling system?

I am seriously laughing at you. You could have ordered a custom loop for less, wouldn't need to deal with that crap that koolance gave you, and you would have gotten much better temps. If you think that the difference was dramatic then, you would keel over seeing a custom loop's temps.

Koolance is just a group of class A dumb a$$'s.
June 24, 2007 8:59:56 AM

Hi...

Can I ask what fan you are using the the mosfets on the motherboard. I have a water cooling kit on a gigabyte 965-DS4 and the heatpipe between the south bridge, north bridge and mosfets annoys be as I can't water cool just the northbridge.
June 24, 2007 9:35:49 AM

Quote:
WTF did you spend nearly $600 on a piece of crap watercooling system?

I am seriously laughing at you. You could have ordered a custom loop for less, wouldn't need to deal with that crap that koolance gave you, and you would have gotten much better temps. If you think that the difference was dramatic then, you would keel over seeing a custom loop's temps.

Koolance is just a group of class A dumb a$$'s.


don't give the guy such a hard time
June 24, 2007 10:22:41 AM

Quote:
Can I ask what fan you are using the the mosfets on the motherboard. I have a water cooling kit on a gigabyte 965-DS4 and the heatpipe between the south bridge, north bridge and mosfets annoys be as I can't water cool just the northbridge.


Same as you.
June 24, 2007 10:23:58 AM

Quote:
WTF did you spend nearly $600 on a piece of crap watercooling system?

I am seriously laughing at you. You could have ordered a custom loop for less, wouldn't need to deal with that crap that koolance gave you, and you would have gotten much better temps. If you think that the difference was dramatic then, you would keel over seeing a custom loop's temps.

Koolance is just a group of class A dumb a$$'s.


Have a Little too much to drink boy.
June 24, 2007 6:23:03 PM

Uhhh.... nope, I actually didn't. I am serious when I say that I am laughing at how much you got screwed!
June 24, 2007 8:40:01 PM

Ok! Show me how I got screwed. :roll:
June 25, 2007 6:13:18 AM

Quote:
Ok! Show me how I got screwed. :roll:


BadDad,

In my experience people like mcain591 who throw out juvenile barbs like that are more often then not just jealous of those that can actually afford to do the kind of technology investment we have done on our rigs....

Without even a shred of detail about this supposed "custom loop" or "better temps" its just screaming at the sky....I think people like you and I who have ultimately had OK (not great) experiences with Koolance can feel comfortable that the investment is working. Ultimately you can follow what we did or do something different...the beauty of a message board like this...

I am over (2) weeks into the full operations of my EXOS2 configuration with dual VID-282s and I could not be more pleased. Temps are great and initial overclocking is running just fine. This was a great project and personally I have you to thank for having run point ahead of me on your config.

Its usually not worth legitimizing stupid posts like the one from mcain591...but if there are facts to back up his blubbering then I am sure in the interest of knowing what options exist for water-cooling...we are all ears...

--Scott
June 25, 2007 12:36:34 PM

Quote:
BadDad,

In my experience people like mcain591 who throw out juvenile barbs like that are more often then not just jealous of those that can actually afford to do the kind of technology investment we have done on our rigs....

Without even a shred of detail about this supposed "custom loop" or "better temps" its just screaming at the sky....I think people like you and I who have ultimately had OK (not great) experiences with Koolance can feel comfortable that the investment is working. Ultimately you can follow what we did or do something different...the beauty of a message board like this...

I am over (2) weeks into the full operations of my EXOS2 configuration with dual VID-282s and I could not be more pleased. Temps are great and initial overclocking is running just fine. This was a great project and personally I have you to thank for having run point ahead of me on your config.

Its usually not worth legitimizing stupid posts like the one from mcain591...but if there are facts to back up his blubbering then I am sure in the interest of knowing what options exist for water-cooling...we are all ears...

--Scott


Exactly! Thanks.
June 26, 2007 6:57:08 AM

and i will as well be getting an Exos-2 system soon for my new computer im putting together, i should have it up and running around mid july
July 30, 2007 5:19:37 AM

BadDad,

Thought I would revive this thread to ask your opinion on something since we had somewhat similar configs...I just sent the following to Koolance Tech Support and hope for an answer Monday. In the meantime....any thoughts?

---------------------

To: Koolance Tech Support

I just completed a major update to my very solid, well-working- EXOS2 configuration. My reason for the update was to add tubing as to allow repositioning of the radiator away from my working area by about 10 feet. My PC config is:

QX6700 2.66mhz quad core chip with CPU-305-V10 cooling block
Dual 8800GTX using VID-282 cooling blocks
EXOS2 unit with all 3/8" tubing and no extra valves, shutoff, etc. Tube length -was- 2-3 feet with unit on top of PC

I just completed an upgrade that did the following:

Upgraded EXOS2 unit with PC3-700 pump (per tech support's suggestion given the distance run...)
Added 10 feet of tube length distance between PC and EXOS2 unit
Added (1) straight shutoff valve (M-F) to each tube about 3" out the bottom of the case (Gigabyte Aurora case)
Added (1) drain valve using straight nozzles about 9" from the shutoff valve on the tube heading back to the EXOS2

Previous to the upgrade I was seeing 38-42c on sensor 1 (CPU)…no higher than 45c if I was running 3DMark. My video cards would range between 50-60c. After the upgrade. My CPU temp has shot up to an idle of about 51c, and I triggered the default alarm playing flight simulator (never did that before). However, its weird that my video cards are running COOLER….with idle about 48-49c and running up to about 54c under load.

I made sure to do a very lengthly bleed and coolant addition. No apparent air in the hoses. I am guessing the shutoff valve right before the CPU might have something to do with actual flow to the CPU…but I don't know. Given what I have told you…what do you think might be the issue here? I was told the PC3 pump would help with the tube distance given the flow rate but I am not sure what is the biggest issue here. The fact that the CPU temp is high but the video card temps have gone down slightly is weird.

Any thoughts on what I could do to try and lower the CPU temp? For the record, I ran Everest on the CPU sensor when the EXOS2 was showing 51c on sensor 1 and it stated:

CPU - 49c
Core #1 - 58c
Core #2 - 50c
Core #3 - 56c
Core #4 - 54c
----------------------------

Thanks for any ideas you have...

--Scott


July 30, 2007 9:13:21 AM

If you really wanted to maximize your cooling potential, you'd stay away from those fullbody waterblocks. Waterblocks built by DD, Alphacool, EK, Koolance, etc - the fullbody blocks that is - have so many 90 degree bends and tight turns that it plays havoc on the flowrate of a cooling loops pump. Now, if you use full body blocks in SLI then your really cutting down on the efficicency of the loop to do its job. Using blocks like the Maze4, GFX Fuzion, MCW60, Cyclone Fusion or the Stealth is more condusive to a more efficient cooling loop. With those blocks you just have the inlet and outlet. The only drawback to them, I suppose, is that you have to use ramsinks for the memory but Swiftechs new Stealth block is an example of an excellent design. It uses the Apogeee pin matrix configuration but is built like the MCW60. Its housing covers the memory but does not use water to cool them.



July 30, 2007 9:17:18 AM

spikerjack, this PC3-700 pump, would you happen to have the specs for it (lph or gph, head, etc)? That's alot of mileage you are asking that pump to push. Also, how is your loop arranged? Do the Vid cards get the initial coolant discharge or is the CPU cooled first?
July 30, 2007 4:27:55 PM

phreejak said:
spikerjack, this PC3-700 pump, would you happen to have the specs for it (lph or gph, head, etc)? That's alot of mileage you are asking that pump to push. Also, how is your loop arranged? Do the Vid cards get the initial coolant discharge or is the CPU cooled first?


phreejak,

The specs on the PC3-700 pump are:

"The TNK-400-NX2BK is an upgrade kit for black Koolance PC3-700 and Exos-2 series systems. It includes the same 9-13.2VDC, ~8 L/min (2.1 GPM), >3m (10ft) head pump used in Koolance PC4-1000 and RP-1000 products."

I ordered this per suggestions from other users and Koolance that had pushed the distance between pump/rad and the PC. My cooling block setup is very straightforward...I have straight 10mm tubing into and out of the CPU-300 block, and then a short hop to the first 8800GTX/Vid-282 block using the metal nozzle connect between both GPUs in SLI mode. As I had noted my main concern became the installation of the shutoff and drain valves thinking they might have had a LPM flow impact.

Reading your sig I have become much more inclined to try TEC cooling. My biggest issue by far in my setup is ambient room temp. I have tons of equipment in my home office and the QX6700/dual 8800 rig and its WC setup is throwing off tons of hot air...room temp with A/C stay about 81-82 degrees F which is why I needed to try and relocate my radiator away from my working area. Will using TEC and (I presume) slower fan speeds allow for a lower ambient room temp? If I wanted to do a single loop for my CPU and dual vids with TEC...what would you recommend for the shopping list? Couldn't I use my vid-282s instead of investing in the Stealth and just focus on getting a better Peltier CPU block?

I appreciate your reply. Sorry to fire up with so many questions. The TEC thing looks intriguing and I am ready to try anything - no super love affair with the Koolance stuff.

--Scott

!