The plastic/rubber type piece I assume is supposed to stay. Im just worried about the adhesive part...and how can you remove the backing plate if you stick it on there with the adheasive that is on the backing plate.
If you use the adhesive pad, remove it before it dries up over time. Use a heatgun or hair dryer to soften up the adhesive and should peel easily. Do not overheat the motherboard or you'll end up damaging it. Just heat it up around 120f and enough for the adhesive to become gooey again.
Do you remove the plastic piece and the other square plastic covering on the backplate?
Ok, after installing my TR Ultra 120 Extreme I can answer this. Yes you remove that larger translucent piece of plastic, however I left the square covered because I didn't want it permanently afixed to my mobo. If you paste it to the mobo it becomes very difficult to get off.
Having temp issues with Intel TAT, once I get CompuTronix's advice I will start writing up my build. It posted and booted to windows IHSless (damn I am good :tongue .
Hmmm. I left the piece of plastic on the back plate. I'm not to worried about the adhesive pad as I have no intentions of taking it off. Will leaving the plastic or having the adhesive on the board cause any issues?
sweet, but aren't you the least bit worried the 120 extreme will damage the cpu since it's ihsless?
Anyways, at least since I have an am2, they already come with a backplate preinstalled, which makes my life ten times easier if I decide to buy the 120 e, but I'm planning on saving up for the ifx-14
Nope, not worried at all. It actually isn't under that much pressure because the screws were designed to sit tight against a CPU with a IHS, which is about 1/8", so that gives it a little wiggle room (which I had to deal with).
So if the screws are designed to have some clearance, then if I take the ihs off my x2 and strap on an ifx-14, should I be too worried about it? Because you seem to be getting great temps, and I really want an ifx, not to mention amd only started to solder the ihs on their cpus I believe after the initial price cut wayyyy back at the end of july, so if I'm lucky, mine might not even be soldered, I guess it won't hurt to try cutting the expoxy on the side off and see if I can slide the ihs off, if I can I know it's not soldered, if I can't, frying pan, here I come 8O
I think if you take care when you install you shouldn't have too much of an issue. I took twice as long to build this rig as I have in prior builds because of the delicate nature of the E4300. The problem will be if I have to move the rig, that is when the crack is likely to happen. I alternated screws doing a 1/2 turn at a time so that the pressure was relatively evenly spaced. I don't know anything about AMD soldering IHS's on, my Opty 165 wasn't soldered but there were mini capacitors along the edge (as I have told you before), so don't forget that.
Side note: What ticked me off was my Ultra 120 Extreme's fan mounting mechanism touches the top 120mm tri-cool fan rendering it useless. All in all it isn't a big deal, but still wish I could fix it (no way around it that I can see w/o major effort).
heh, right now I'm just looking into tecs for my watercooler when I take my ihs off. I found a nice auxilary psu that fits in a drive bay, now I just need to find out how to link it with my regular psu
My guess is you found a Meanwell S320 PSU with bare leads. Your best bet if you want to link them together is to look for a PCI relay switch which is normally used to link a water pump to a PSU so they start at the same time. The PCI relay should work for the meanwell it just may be an interesting wiring job.