Watercooling for EVGA 680i MB

Okay, I have the EVGA 680i SLI A1 MB and I bought the Swiftec H20-220 Apex Ultra+:


Now my problem comes in that I need to cool my SB. Also take into consideration that my 8800gtx will be over it. would an extra MCW30 fit there? If I get an extra MCW30 will I need to upgrade the pump? How ill I route the tubing? Also, my case has 2 80mm fans on the exhaust instead of 1 120mm, where do I put the radiator? Over the top of the 2 80mm? Should I just put it in the case on the floorpan? I have the X-Pider Aluminum Case w/Window. This is my first WC build. Thanks again guys... Peace :twisted:
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  1. What components are you going to include in your water cooling loop? I suggest you do not include the 8800GTX for it's cooler is sufficient enough. Otherwise you'll have a higher then average temps and especially for your cpu. But if you don't overclock then it's fine to include the cpu, 8800GTX, south and north bridge.

    As for the water blocks, use Innovatek, since it's partner with Evga and the components will fit nicely and does not get in the way of other components.

    Evga Innovatek 680i motherboard: Click Here
  2. It's not mine. It's the show case for Evga and Innovatek partnership debut, about 2 months ago. I wished I got that system, that would be awesome.
  3. The SB has to be cooled because its hotter then most MB SB. Thank EVGA... it already has its own fan w.heatpipe that goes up to the NB. I do want to cool my 8800gtx as I will be OCing the q6600. I already have my Swiftec WC setup, just dont know if maybe I should just buy an extra chipset cooler (MCW30), I looked at it and it looks like I could get it to fit if I flip the bracket around. My question is would my pump (MCP655) be strong enough to push the water proficiently through the whole loop? I guess I will have to trial and error since its a new board. Ive asked this same question in EVGA & Xoxide forumz but no responses. Peace :twisted:
  4. One pump will be enough to push it through, but not with any decent flow rate. The more radiators, blocks, splitters, etc. you add to a loop, the slower your flow rate becomes, which hurts heat transfer immensely. If you're dead set on watercooling everything, set up multiple loops. At least two. I would do the 2 GTX's and then the SB on one, the NB and CPU on the other. I would watercool the Volt Regs LONG before the SB though, especially if overclocking. A good passive block likeTHIS will be more than you really need, and should be a bit cheaper than a WC solution to boot.
  5. It's a chipset block, you can configure it to mount to either NB or SB. The mounting holes are the same distance apart for either. A single more powerful pump would be an option, but if he wants a long, continuous loop, than multiple pumps would be the best. That way, in the event of a pump failure, flow is maintained and he can perform a graceful shutdown. Anytime you're trying to push through multiple radiators, I would recommend multiple pumps to counter the pressure drops. If you're still looking for blocks, Koolance actually has a newly designed batch that look pretty cool, still not impingint flow though, so I wouldn't recommend the CPU, but their GPU and MB blocks are competively priced. They have a sweet, sweet full immersion 1200W PSU too. Sweet.
  6. I only have 1 GTX... meaning that the pump would only have to push water through CPU-VGA-NB-SB... 4 components. I think if I buy am extra MCW30 for the SB it should work. Not alot of people WC the 680i though, so not alot of info out there for me.
  7. Well, that's gonna be a lot of heat. Make sure you have a big enough radiator to dissipate it.
  8. The problem isn't just the addition of heat, for every seperate component in the loop that's cooled, there's a pressure drop over the cooling block. I agree, two loops. Or, at a minimum, 2 rads and 2 pumps in one loop. I also agree that watercooling the SB is pointless. It's right up there with watercooling memory or HDD. Just put a good passive cooler on there and make sure you maintain some kind of airflow through the case and you'll be fine. Air is even more important with WC than without, believe it or not. Cooling your VRMs is absolutely critical with an overclocked system, and the normal CPU fan isn't there to do it. Most high-end mobos have fans for these heatsinks that you can use, don't forget about it!
  9. You know what I wanted to do, but gave up on? Get one of those little Dorm fridges and build everything in there. Change out the compressor motor with one rated for continuous use, seal the darn thing up completely, run external CD/DVD drives etc, and drill a hole and fill it with foam insulation for the cables. I gave up on it cuz the power usage would be too crazy. I still think it would be sweet though.

    As for using a homemade phase change, yea, condensation could be a problem. Do you mean phase changing the CPU and letting that lower the ambient in the case? Or phase changing the VRM's directly? I think phase changing might actually go BELOW the rated temp reqs for the VRM's, I've never done research on what the temp floor is for them. I think keeping them as close to ambient as possible would be the best solution.
  10. Ok, yea, now I read your question correctly. Phase should indirectly lower ambient and the PCB temp around the CPU socket, which in turn would help the VRM temps, theoretically at least. Speaking of phase, whatever happened to OCZ's stand-alone unit? Wasn't it supposed to be available by now? That thing looked pretty friggin' sweet.
  11. Found it. Laughed my butt off too.


    Check out the link right below it: 2KW PSU "all about willy waving" : OCZ CEO
  12. Probably didn't help that their delivery guy's name was Al Kayder.
  13. It wouldn't surprise me if they ran into problems with customs for real. I hope it's true anyway, I'd love to get my sweaty paws on one of these bad boys.
  14. Update: Started to put together the WC build last night. I bought an extra MCW30 Chipset Cooler from Swiftec to WC the SB. In order for it to work, you have to install the the bolt from the front and secure it on the back with the black plastic nut. Put the black washer on the bolt-insert from top of board through MCW30 bracket through board-flip board over and install a second black washer and secure it down with the black nut. Now you have room to install your 8800gtx wc or non-wc. Ive also installed a T fitting hose. T fitting is at the bottom w/ an out let out of the back of the case with an plastic On/off handle for draining. Peace :twisted:
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