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e6300 Dead or Mobo

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May 10, 2007 10:50:01 PM

Here is the deal. I bought the Blue Orb 2 and managed to install it although it required lots of pressure to get the cpu screws to match. After installing, I tried booting it up and the fans start spinning for one second and whole thing shuts off. I take off the fan and try again, same thing. I take out the cpu and the computer works...the fans spin normally and it doesnt turn off. Now is the cpu dead due to the pressure put on it or is it the motherboard. I tried installing the fan again to get some experience and each approach I took requires lots of pressure to be put on the cpu and the area. If anyone can advise me whether the cpu or the mobo is dead that would be helpful. The cpu has no signs of damage on it, nor does the motherboard. Thank you.

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a b V Motherboard
May 10, 2007 11:54:19 PM

Reseat all you cards and RAM and try to boot it up . If not pull out your RAM and the computer should beep at you.

List your MB RAM and Vid card.
May 11, 2007 12:06:03 AM

MB: P5N-E Sli
CPU: e6300
RAM: 2 GB (2x1)
Video Card: 7600GT

The thing is that the computer doesnt have time to beep, even when I take out teh ram becase it shuts off literarly in one second after I turn it on, all I see is the fan light light ups and computer turns off. I am not sure if the MB is dead or CPU, bt when I run it w/o cpu it doesnt turn off, it continues running fans etc etc.
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a b à CPUs
a b V Motherboard
May 11, 2007 12:54:01 AM

Did it work before the installation of the Blue orb 2?
May 11, 2007 3:01:44 AM

yes, I had the stock cooler and computer was running fine for about 3 months, now after installing the new fan, nothing...

PS: thank you for the replies

My idea is to order CPU see if it works, if not, I return it and order motherboard.
May 11, 2007 3:06:45 AM

Have you tried running the MB outside the case on cardboard with that new HSF installed? It might be a pain, but it could help you see more then seeing anything with it in the case.

On a side note, you really shouldn't try to run a system CPU without the HSF installed. The size of the cores are small (for any CPU actually), and it doesn't take long for it to trip the thermal shutdown.
May 11, 2007 4:13:30 AM

I was hoping it would be a thermal problem, but there is no way that in 1-2 seconds it could get hot by just turning computer on. Maybe the pressure defected it somehow to register any activity as dangerous and shut it off. I don't know, well I am ordering a new cpu and I will see if it works or not, pricey solution but somehow I feel like its the only way.

Thank you for the ideas and time, i appreciate it.
May 11, 2007 4:18:55 AM

Have you tried the stock cooler again?
I remember blowing out the fan header on the motherboard, which was causing a load when I had a fan attached to it, which resulted in a quick power on, then power off scenario.

If the stock cooler runs fine, then the fan header might not be damaged, and it could possibly be the socket that was damaged. But if the stock cooler will not run, then the fan header could be damaged, cause some fans on HSFs, draw a lot more power than what the fan header can handle. I found that out the hard way, a few years ago.
May 11, 2007 4:31:17 AM

Since you said you had to apply allot of pressure, are the pins in the socket all right.. no bent or misaligned pins?

Getting another CPU may not fix anything. The CPU itself would be protected by the IHS, and you said there were no marks on it. I would assume there's no signs of compression, like crushing a can.

I'd would like the other also try using the stock HSF again, to test it out.
May 11, 2007 4:51:39 AM

Maybe your PSU is at the power limit and using an aftermarket cooler it doesn't have enough juice to run it all?

That may explain why the thing works without the cpu. No CPU = Less energy drain.

Maybe?
May 11, 2007 5:15:14 AM

My check list:
1. Put new fan (with all computer components hooked up) it turns on fans spin light glow for 1-2 secs and than all shuts off (the light on motherboard is still lit however, so the power is there)
2. Took of new fan, tried CPU w/o it. Still shut off (w/all components)
3. Unhooked all components and tried just the CPU, still shuts off.
4. Put components back took out CPU and PC works fine, fans spinning, lights glowing.
5. Put CPU back in, hooked up stock cooler, power off...
6. Took out CPU, no burn marks no bend marks and the small dots where the pins go onto are all good and have slight indentations showing where each pin was pinged into. All align up.
7. Looked at each pin, all look intact.
8. The stock cooler runs fine w/o cpu, all fans do.
The fan required me to mount additional brackets from the back of motherboard so my guess might also be that the whole procedure might have ruined something.
-How fragile are the CPUs, only "shock" it ever endured was the pressure of the fan mount and thats it. While the motherboard was handled around bunch of times.

Should I just order motherboard than, and give it a try, websites seem to be more lenient when it comes to MB RMA's compared to CPU. Its not a problem for me to get either the CPU or MB, I just want to make sure I get right one, since its the RMA that worries me the most.
May 11, 2007 5:23:25 AM

Quote:
My check list:
2. Took of new fan, tried CPU w/o it. Still shut off (w/all components)
3. Unhooked all components and tried just the CPU, still shuts off.


Umm.. how many people actually do this, and think it's really okay? If thermal shutdown was never developed, you would have a fried CPU for sure. I suggest you take that kind of TS (trouble shooting) out of your list.

Now the only logical step for you, is to find a local PC shop, and have at least your CPU checked. It might be worth 15-20 bucks to have it tested, as well as the MB.

Or even if you have a friend with a 775 socket C2D MB that you could at least test the CPU.
(Edit with the HS on :lol: )
May 11, 2007 5:42:55 AM

Ok I understand what you are saying, but first off I went to local computer repair shop and they charge 40 for diagnostic, and if I tell them to fix it, they have to use their MB or CPU which cost little less than half as much since its nt from online. Installations are additional 40+ 70/hr or work....as for the Thermal Shutdown. There is no logical reason for it, since the CPU worked fine w/ stock cooler until I installed the new fan. I turned PC on with new fan and 1 second running (literary 1 second) it turns off. I took off few components thinking its power issue but still nothing. I put stock back on, nothing, than I went to doing cpu alone which still did 1 second shut off. W/o cpu it runs, the fans the HDD etc. There is no reason cpu is under stress and especially for 1 second, that kind of fast heat build up not even a cooler could handle.

(Edited: No friends with LGA 775 :(  )
May 11, 2007 6:25:54 AM

Gah.. 40 bucks? :?

About the thermal shut down, now what if it did stay on longer (20 secs)? Just saying it is not good practice to do such a thing.

Well, I took a look at the instructions for that blue orb 2. I don't think it should apply that much pressure.

1. You basically have 4 screw with insulators that go through the MB from the back, that hold a 775 clips. (2 screws for one clip).

2. Then you add thermal grease to the IHS.

3. Then you place the HS on top, aligning the holes to the retaining clips.

4. Finally you just put the screws (guess they are already in the HS) in the holes to tighten the HS to the clips.

Kinda similar setup to my 7700 Zalman, but I don't think that would cause too much pressure on the CPU. I can even still turn the HS back and forth with enough pressure.

Now please tell me that you did use the 4 insulators on the screws that went through the holes from the back?

Did you do this all out of the PC case (as well as power it up outside the PC case)?
May 11, 2007 6:37:00 AM

If the fan is not attached to the right power slot in the mobo, the bios will not detect it's presence and therefore automatically shut off the machine to prevent damage to the cpu. I believe this is the case in your situation. Try to insert fans in all 3 power slots in the mb and check whether the mobo detects them - for instance through sisoft sandra (fan speed).
May 11, 2007 6:44:34 AM

Yea the instructions look easy enough, but check out some review on newegg, filter them so you only see bad ones, you will see people complaining about necessary pressure. Mostly those who returned it b/c they didn't want to risk it. Yes I did use the insulators, and did take the mobo out of the case since no other way to put the screws in. I have always been careful with the components, when I had to put my cpu in first time I was worried about necessary pressure of the lever that hold it down. Now i thought, well its made for the socet so the gys that made it knew what they were doing and I gave it a shot, crunched my teeth and started tightening the screw all way.

Right now I ma debating whether I should order a motherboard (due t it being handled ed so much, which might have caused damage), r the cpu since the MB supposedly works when cpu is out and not when its in...

again, thank you for the time and advice, I wouldn't be bothering with this if I only knew which one was dead, I am ready to order, just which one...so far I am thinking motherboard, since they will be easier to RMA and restocking fee wont be as much.

Don't worry I will make sure that CPU has cooling if it goes over that barrier of 1 second.

PS: when I take teh cpu out and PC seems t work, does that mean MB is ok? Or simply that it is distributing power.

(edited: I didnt power outside PC case..how would you do that...and why...that seems more risky to me.)
May 11, 2007 6:49:43 AM

kasperlindvig, I can not get the computer to boot at all, 1 sec is from pressing the power button...the fan is in correct slot because I ahd the stock running fine in it, before and after the incident (of course after the incident I ahve to take cpu ut t avoid 1 sec shut off). It is the presence of the cpu that makes the difference, no matter whether the fan is in or out.
May 11, 2007 7:07:47 AM

Gawd... I guess the springs on the screws perhaps provide too much resistance when your trying to tighten it down?

Well, to power the system out of the case, you can rule out other possibilities that can cause a MB not to boot. Most or just about all Brands like Asus will advise trying to run the MB outside the PC case.

For example, when you start the MB up without the PC case switches, you can rule out if you have a faulty PC power button or reset switch. I did in the past, was called upon a PC that wouldn't boot, stayed on a blank screen. Turns out someone push the reset switch too far, so it was still pressed on, which wouldn't allow the system to post. :lol: 

That's just an example though. To start up the system without buttons, you just need to know which jumper to short (which are the 2 jumpers your wires are hooked up to) with a small flathead screwdriver for a quick sec, since that is all what a button does. It just causes a intermittent connection to signal to turn on.

Also, you can rule out anything shorting out on the MB plate of the casing. You would need to be sure to put the MB on a non-conductive surface, namely cardboard.

Its basically a good starting point to TS a system.
May 11, 2007 7:14:59 AM

Ok thanks for the advice, I'll try finding more about that on the net. For now I think I am going to order MB, and see where that takes me. Put CPU in there see if same problem, if so, RMA and get new cpu, hopefully that works.
!