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Should the PSU turn on right out of the box?

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May 24, 2007 2:19:28 AM

I'm confused - I just unpacked my new Rosewill PSU (ordered from Newegg) - plugged it in, flicked the switch (on 115V setting, since I'm in USA), and lo and behold, nothing happens.

Is there any possible way that it's NOT just DOA? Any info would be helpful - should be a simple question.

Thanks!

EDIT: to be clear, the PSU is not plugged into anything at all except the wall.

More about : psu turn box

May 24, 2007 2:42:51 AM

I wouldnt be suprised, Rosewill makes horrible power supplies. Maybe this is God trying to warn you not to use it.

Oh, and a psu needs some kind of load to turn on. Connect a case fan or something and short a green and black wire on the 24 pin connector. A paper clip will work fine. That should turn it on. Then, instead of RMA'ing it, you can just return it to Newegg.
May 24, 2007 2:52:27 AM

Check your PSU lable for the min load for each 5v, 3.3v, 12v rails. Its usually somewhere between 0.25-1 amp.
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May 24, 2007 8:22:53 AM

Thank you VERY much for that reassuring help :)  the PC is now completely built, I guess I'll take it down, plug it in to the monitor and see if it works...

I realize that Rosewill isn't highly regarded, but yes, it was a deal :) . And not only that, but it was specced well above the Power I felt was necessary, so even if it performs way below it's peak (common trick, I hear), it should be fine - and I checked (A) reviews [there were like 70 on Newegg, very positive] and (B) the current supplied by each rail, compared to suggested for the graphics/processor/utilization I was planning on.

If it turns out that my overclocks are unstable, that gives me a good scapegoat, though - allows me not to blame myself and my amateurish work trying to shove all the cables out of the way for adequate airflow :p  and probably did irrevocable damage trying to force in all the components when I didn't really know what I was doing... warped PCB is never good.
May 24, 2007 9:52:37 AM

There's an awful lot of snobbery around about "bad" power supplies, I paid £20 (inc vat) for my 400W power supply and it's still going strong 1 year on (running an 8800GTS etc, FX CPU, 2 hard disks etc)

everyone on here told me I needed a 580-600W $100+ PSU, I went away, did the calcs (350W ish it all adds up to) and bought a Zoostorm 6400HP 400W with 30A combined on the 12+ rails and an mtbf of 5 years 24/7... for $35
May 24, 2007 2:15:59 PM

Considering the probable cap stress failure, I wouldn't give that long before we see problems..... :cry: 
May 24, 2007 3:02:06 PM

check here for a "good" word on what a $20 psu can do. (a couple of psu's reviewed, one at $19)

While you may be running, no telling for how long.

What you see is not snobbery, just wisdom from peeps that have been burned by cheap psu's and want to help ppl like you from falling in the same trap.

...if you choose not to listen, that is your bag. Just don't complain here when your system starts failing at weird times or you fry your mobo. ;) 
May 24, 2007 3:20:18 PM

Which model do you have? Some are good, some are bad and people who say "rosewill sucks" simply don't know that rosewill themselves do not make PSUs at all, they sub-contact that out to several companies who use a variety of OEM sources.

The first thing you have to do is look at the label, if you take a close look, note the bottom left corner the backwards "UR" symbol and the number below, E186010 or ATNG who coincidentally makes some serious server-grade and special application switched-mode units. Do your own research and find noone complains much about them, even the "cheap" desktop power supply units they make - which I have found to be quite reliable as I come across them from time to time.

However, rosewill has been known to use some unscrupulous OEMs, for example the RD500 uses E223918 or Solytech and they are known to OEM for L&C as well as Allied - known hardware killers & poor quality at best. They also use YoungYear under E126556, also made for Aspire/Apevia and Ultra, almost as horrible. So I can see why people dislike them, and as fun as it is to bash them it does not take a whole lot of work to look at the UL listing and see who really is behind the scenes and make a judgment from then on. Anyone can bash them, and in most cases it is done from people who have no experience with ATNG made units at all and/or little to no engineering skills at all.

So my rank of Rosewill OEM units are this, from good to bad:

E186010 / ATNG - excellent price/quality point
E178768 / wintech - medicore at best, may be better choices within the same price range
E223918 / solytech - poor quality, not worth the $
E126556 / youngyear- poor quality, not worth the $

If yours is ATNG, keep it they are decent quality and last quite a while. Wintech, for overclocking a game rig probably replace it, they do work great for web-surfing or grandparents pc's. solytech/youngyear, I would replace it ASAP, these are the ones that apt403 and mpilch are talking about - they are just too lazy to look up the OEM. They bashed Cooler Master in the same respect prior to the release of the igreen series.
May 24, 2007 3:44:33 PM

Quote:
There's an awful lot of snobbery around about "bad" power supplies, I paid £20 (inc vat) for my 400W power supply and it's still going strong 1 year on (running an 8800GTS etc, FX CPU, 2 hard disks etc)

everyone on here told me I needed a 580-600W $100+ PSU, I went away, did the calcs (350W ish it all adds up to) and bought a Zoostorm 6400HP 400W with 30A combined on the 12+ rails and an mtbf of 5 years 24/7... for $35

The problem with a 400w unit that is rated for +12v@30A is that the +12v max rating leave little power left for the other rails within the unit. under "typical modern system loading" of 100w for the +5/+3.3 and 20w for the -12/+5vsb you are left with only 280w / 23A for the +12v.

A typical c2d / 8800gts / 1xhdd / 1xdvd / 2 fan system would hover around 18A~19A at best so it may work out for a 400w unit but your FX60 / 2 x hdd / 1 x dvd / 2x fan system would be pulling 292w / 24A at most so you are definitly stressing that unit. If it's a quality unit like FSP it may work out since they are properly rated but I have never heard of that brand before and it is really inexpensive so if that is an indicator to quality it is looking bleak already.
January 6, 2008 6:59:22 AM

Hello all, I just bought a RX 750watt and it is ATNG E186010 for my custom build(its in the new build thread) and I am getting mixed reviews on this. I have studied all the numbers, and It looks to me that if they make good parts to put into this PSU, it should have more then enough power to run what ever i can throw at it. Time will tell if this PSu is a piece of crap or a good buy. It will be here 01/07/08 So I hope all the guys that say it is a crap PSU are wrong.
January 6, 2008 9:54:13 AM

Could you CPU overheat if you dont have the sufficient power to your CPU?
I have that whenver I play games like Bioshock and wow
a c 144 ) Power supply
January 6, 2008 10:34:21 AM

danerf said:
Could you CPU overheat if you dont have the sufficient power to your CPU?
I have that whenver I play games like Bioshock and wow

No.

Insufficient power, by itself, will not cause overheating. An improperly installed or inadequate HSF or bad airflow through a case will.
January 6, 2008 10:44:31 AM

Thermaltake is the minimum brand for a PSU. Check out my sig, I'm running ABSOLUTE minimum for my system, even about 75% of people on Tom's would still say I am being a cheapskate.

Rosewill etc., never mind it wrecking your PC, what if it started a house fire?? Those crappy PSU companies should be blocked from selling in N.A. period.

Didn't you hear about deadly Chinese toys lately? Well, what you bought more than qualifies. Yank it out and stomp on it, do yourself a favor.

I'll verbalize something that goes largely unsaid, but it is behind most of the comments:

A high-quality PSU is a MAJOR PC component. They last a LONG time if you clean the dust out of them. You can carry them over from system to system. It is only being burned by a crappy PSU that teaches you to enjoy a good PSU as much as a good videocard. Buy a good one and think of it as a cool upgrade to your hobby, cause that is what it is. All hobies are expenses, no matter how hard we all try to think of them as "investments". I'd rather see a brand spanking new Corsair in my new PC than some time bomb, thanks.

Oh, and if this isn't a hobby? Even MORE reason to not screw around with the PSU.

Haha, and to boot: everyone worries about how overclockable this CPU is with that RAM. If your PSU is crap it may have unstable power, and electrical "noise". If this is the case, it makes overclocking very tricky, and won't ever be stable due to power fluctuations.

So, if you overclock, the PSU is where it all starts, no pun intended.
February 6, 2008 11:22:58 AM

Hey Falken699,

Say what you want to about the Rosewill RX-750watt, But your statements have no facts behind them when it comes to this PSU. Jonnyguru tested it and it is posted in there reviews section. They gave it he Jonnyguru stamp of approval and yes they even open them up after testing to see the Quality of parts used, and this RX-750 is very well made. Is it the best out there, for price VS performance I would say yes, Is it the best period,, no its not. Mine puts out very stable power, no problems at all. Show some facts before you make your statements guy, cuz you must not have any, other then I saw a Rosewill blow up one time, or I know someone.... ect. ect. And news flash for you alot of Good and top PSU makers use Chinese parts guy...
August 22, 2008 8:46:07 AM

doolittle said:
Which model do you have? Some are good, some are bad and people who say "rosewill sucks" simply don't know that rosewill themselves do not make PSUs at all, they sub-contact that out to several companies who use a variety of OEM sources.

The first thing you have to do is look at the label, if you take a close look, note the bottom left corner the backwards "UR" symbol and the number below, E186010 or ATNG who coincidentally makes some serious server-grade and special application switched-mode units. Do your own research and find noone complains much about them, even the "cheap" desktop power supply units they make - which I have found to be quite reliable as I come across them from time to time.

However, rosewill has been known to use some unscrupulous OEMs, for example the RD500 uses E223918 or Solytech and they are known to OEM for L&C as well as Allied - known hardware killers & poor quality at best. They also use YoungYear under E126556, also made for Aspire/Apevia and Ultra, almost as horrible. So I can see why people dislike them, and as fun as it is to bash them it does not take a whole lot of work to look at the UL listing and see who really is behind the scenes and make a judgment from then on. Anyone can bash them, and in most cases it is done from people who have no experience with ATNG made units at all and/or little to no engineering skills at all.

So my rank of Rosewill OEM units are this, from good to bad:

E186010 / ATNG - excellent price/quality point
E178768 / wintech - medicore at best, may be better choices within the same price range
E223918 / solytech - poor quality, not worth the $
E126556 / youngyear- poor quality, not worth the $

If yours is ATNG, keep it they are decent quality and last quite a while. Wintech, for overclocking a game rig probably replace it, they do work great for web-surfing or grandparents pc's. solytech/youngyear, I would replace it ASAP, these are the ones that apt403 and mpilch are talking about - they are just too lazy to look up the OEM. They bashed Cooler Master in the same respect prior to the release of the igreen series.


Doolittle is quite an ironic name for the amount of research you have obviously done. I applaud posts like yours for the helpful information and wisdom you supply (no pun intended) rather than idiotic banter amongst amateurs who would rather give inaccurate advice to bolster their image instead of an honest opinion based on research and experience. I recently purchased a Rosewell 550 watt psu and was relieved to find that it indeed is the ATNG model. I am building my new rig tomorrow and will sleep better tonight after reading your review. Thank you for your honest and informative post.
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