KANDALF LCS built in watercooling kit

I just finished installing my new build in a Kandalf LCS today, and I like it a lot, it's visually appealing and spacious. As far as oc'ing I don't really know, I haven't gotten to that point yet, and am not entirely sure if my temps are low enough (this may be my fault with too much thermal paste, but I haven't been through the break-in period yet). The only things I disliked about this installation with this case was the firewire header was irritating with all 9 pins separate (though I think that's just how it is), and overall the usb and audio headers from the top ports would have been nice a few inches longer, also mounting the pump takes creativity (I only used 2 of four screws) since the holes don't really line up. Other than that, sweet case, though heavy.

Edit: Also, toolless installation is a beautiful thing.

I wouldn't flame someone that's helping you out

I checked your profile and you apperantly really like to double post, so don't expect to get results from people with a demanding attitude

the load temps are pretty high :?


and for the other dude, if u just take a look at the other post u'll know why i double posted it!

I used the arctic silver ceramique, and I used the instructions, but I was entirely clear on how thick a lone to put on. I only went as thick as the tip of the syringe. I put my system up to 3Ghz, and saw idle of 41 and load temps between 47 and 53 after just a minute or so with TAT. At stock speeds my idle is around 28, and I just ran TAT for 30 mins with temps staying between 40 and 45.

The instructions on how to put on artic silver (i assume the ceramique also) are on their site. But the cliff note version is this:

put a dollop on the heatsink and use a sandwich bag and rub it in to where u just see a haze. put 5 small amounts about half the size of a BB in all 4 corners and the middle. use a razorblade and spread it out to almost paperthin making sure you cover the entire heat spreader.

put the heatsink on and wiggle ever so slightly before cranking it down.

if you didnt take the time to spread it out, it actually will make it worse.

If you really want good results you will be much happier with a custom build over thermaltake.
Look into a good swiftech kit that you can add too later if you want the guess work taken out of the equation.

so i guiss i wont take it afterall

i'll get a 3D aurora 570 and a tuniq tower (no ULTRA 120 in israel :x )
and the 3D is one of few cases that r worth somthing here, all we got is the cheap cr@pp

Under a heavy load(dual orthos)on my OC'd e6400 gets around 45c. Also another thing to think about is that alot of other parts like voltage regulators, NB, and RAM to some degree need that air blowing across them from an air cooler. When you water cool it takes that air away and other things tend to heat up.

I can only speak for myself but if I were to do things all over again I wouldn't get the Tt LCS. In fact you could spend about the same amount of money and get a case, a Swiftech kit with a 120mm rad and then add a NB block for about the as much as they want for this Tt LCS kit. The swiftech 120mm rad performs just about the same as this Tt 3x120 rad. I don't think anyone will tell you that swiftech makes poor quality products, but Tt can be sketchy at times.

If I just threw you off the H20 poney then you could go for something like a Tuniq Tower, a Zalman 9700, or you could even look into a TEC cooler from CoolIT, or UltraProducts. The Vigor monsoon isn't a bad one either but I've also heard it's not that good as well.

oh, bummer dude. Rub some sand on it.

I about pissed my pants 10 times cuz of this......simple yes I am.

I also tried to explain this to my girlfriend and she didn't get it. lol..... lol.

lol, well, i have to say, the water cooling in this case is pretty damn hefty, i saw only a 4oC drop from changing the pump and cpu block and my temps are great as usual, i don't suppose you can really use my temps as an accurate benchmark because my cpu lacks an IHS, but listen to this, ambient temperature is proximately 16oC (its winter), my processor after the new block and pump sits at 19oC idle and 24oC load (non overclocked) with the stock parts it sat at 23oC idle and 27oC load. now the interesting bit, after overclocking, the new parts got 26oC idle and 30oC load, the old parts got 28oC idle and 36oC load. that goes to show when you really are stressing the system the pump makes a big difference.

I have the Kandalf LCS and I will admit that it's sucky in comparison to other WC kits. The only reason I have it is because I needed a good case and a new cooler. I thought I'd give it a shot since everything is upgradable...need less to say...I'm upgrading everything 1 piece at a time. Next step for me is a 2x120 rad and then I'll get my 655, 1/2"ID pump.

i know, but i will sacrifice that 3-4oC margin for convenience, looks and price, lol. And also, i replaced the stock fans that were on my rad (they were riveted on) with S-Flex 120s and it performs HEAPS better now, quieter, cooler. anyway, i have no problems with my temps, (infact i think they are somewhere near perfect) so I'm not going to change it for a while.