About the CPU, I still confuse what the overclocking means, how it affects the actual computer processing speed, and other things like that.
Overclocking is the art of changing front sidebus settings (the basic speed at which your computer's mainboard directs everything attached to it), the voltage (higher voltages lower signal degradation, but cause greater heat and power requirements), and multiplier (the number of times your CPU acts for every tick of the front-side bus). Overclocking increases the CPU's clock rate, and thus
can result in a proportional performance boost, but will only do so if the processor itself is the bottleneck on your system.
Overclocking is a complex art, dependent on not only the processor itself, but the motherboard, RAM, and cooling methodology. It is not without risks and costs: in addition to the dollar cost of getting the right pieces, overclocking can create extra heat. For every ten degree increase, the processor's lifespan is cut nearly in half. For many of us, this isn't a problem -- the processor will usually last around 10 years at normal clockrate in even the stuffiest system -- but it is worth being aware of.
You can also overclock your system's RAM and even the RAM and processor on a graphics card. For RAM, the process is similar and intertwined, since increasing the FSB increases the speed the RAM operates at unless you manually set it slower, while graphics card overclocks tend to rely on software inside your operating system.
<b>Purchasing a Computer</b> :
If you are using your computer for workstation use, the single most important part is price : most modern computers will be able to deal with
If you are planning a computer for gaming use, the most important part is not, surprisingly, the CPU, but is the graphics card.
Right now, graphics adapters come in three choices : integrated chips, nVidia, and ATi. Integrated chips are not really valid gaming choices, despite the low cost. With ATI cards, you probably want at least an x800, and preferably an x1600 or higher. With NVidia, you can get away with an 6800, but a 7600 or above, or 8600 or above would be preferable.
Greater amounts of RAM on the card help with higher texture levels, but this should not be the primary focus.
After that, then the CPU becomes important. For today's games, most of the emphasis is on a single core's performance, and thus you want a processor rated at at least 4200+. That said, future games will focus on multiple threading to solve a lot of physical design problems, and thus a more powerful processor, one with multiple cores, is highly recommended. Most of the Intel Core 2 Duo series has well-saturated the market and would make a good purchase choice, as would most of the higher-rated Athlon X-2s (such as the 4200+, or preferably mid-5x00s).
Finally, RAM is important. For Windows XP, you want to have the option of installing at least 2 gigabytes of RAM, even if the current set-up has significantly less. For Windows Vista, you want the option of installing at least 3 gigabytes and preferably more. Today's games can operate well at 1 or 1.5 gigabytes, but as this is an easily upgraded attribute, it's important to know you have the upgrade path available.
Drives, design, and monitor are largely to taste.
<b>Basics for Computer Construction</b> :
Start with a processor. Modern consumer-available processors have, and will continue, to range between $50 US and $1000 US or even higher, depending on what level of performance you are willing to pay for. For most modern gaming, though, the $200-$260 US price range is currently the high end, and you can get decent workstation performance as low as $100.
Don't try to predict performance from the numbers. Like trying to bend a spoon with your mind, it's impossible. Use
The CPU Chart, and use it to see what sort of performance you'll get, and then choose from there. There are some parts of the CPU that are worth noticing, though. The name, the FSB setting, and the socket, all of which are important in figuring out compatibility.
Next, choose a graphics adapter. For anything more than desktop use, you will need a dedicated video card. Like CPUs, it's worth using
The Chart to compare models to find one that matches the performance you need, then check prices. Prepare to spend a lot on the card: it is probably the bottleneck on any reasonably balanced system.
For graphics cards, you need to know the interface -- usually PCI-E 16x although there are still some AGP and PCI cards -- and power requirements. Most modern cards are PCI-E, and I suggest sticking with this interface.
The motherboard is the connection for the above parts, and thus can be the hardest choice for a new system. First, you need to be sure to pick a motherboard compatible with your processor, and thus it has to match your processor's socket, support the FSB rate, and support the processor itself. The first two aspects will usually be in the name on NewEgg.com, but you'll have to check the motherboard's manufacturer to be sure of the last attribute.
Next, it also has to match the video card. If you plan to game, you'll have wanted a PCI-E 16x card, and thus you'll need at least one PCI-E 16x slot. If your box is mostly for workstation use, you can get away with integrated video, in which case you'll want to find a motherboard with a decent integrated video solution.
Finally, make sure the other sockets and slots fit what you want. For each modern hard drive or optical drive, you'll need a SATA connection on the motherboard. If you have older drives, these may be IDE-based, and you'll want to make sure that the motherboard has IDE support. SATA is based on a thin, red cable and can move data at up to 3 gigabits per second, while IDE is based on a flat, wide cable and is much slower. Make sure you've also got enough USB, FireWire (if you have FireWire items), and other connections for your sort of solution.
There are a few attributes you need to know about a given motherboard for compatibility purposes : the form factor (usually ATX, but other standards such as BTX, miniATX, and others exist) and the type of memory supported.
Next, you need to select memory. Most modern desktops use DDR2 RAM, but there is also a DDR3 standard that is coming around (but a little expensive right now). Some motherboards can actually use both standards, although not at the same time. In either case, you'll want to get at least 512 MBs of RAM for a workstation, and preferably 1-2 gigabytes for a gaming system using Windows XP. Windows Vista can use as much RAM as you're willing to feed it, but most games won't really need more than 2-3 GBs of RAM.
RAM has a few standards, most of which you don't need to worry about. Timing and CAS are really important to enthusiasts, but the difference isn't significant to new builders. You do, however, need to be aware of the speed. Higher speed RAM generally helps performance, and mismatched RAM can end up causing performance loss (more so in AMD systems than recent Intel ones), and also severely limits overclocking potential. Currently, DDR2 800 speed RAM is the best-priced speed available, but this will change as FSB speeds go up.
You may wish to visit the motherboard manufactor's website to see what RAM they have tested with their system. In my experience, memory incompatibility is very rare, but it can never hurt.
Power supply is next -- you want something with enough power for your system, and with the interfaces you need. For most systems not planning to go nuts with a 500+ USD graphics card, right now a 500 watt to 600 watt power supply seems to work fine. Do go by a reputable designer -- I like Fortron -- as power supplies by less makers may be cheaper but will be more likely to fail, louder, and less efficient.
You will also want to pick drives that are compatible with your motherboard, according to what you are willing to pay for.
Finally, select a case. I suggest not getting a case plus power supply combo, for starters, but you also need your case to match your motherboard -- an ATX motherboard will not fit in a microATX case (do note that some ATX cases will also be compatible with a microATX motherboard, however; larger cases generally can take smaller motherboards). I suggest against cutting corners here, as a cheap case can . You don't need to splurge and grab an Antec p182, but at least spending 50 USD on a CoolerMaster Centurion 5 or another decent system will save you a lot of work and make sure UPS doesn't leave you dented.
Make sure to purchase thermal paste. A tube can cost less than 6 USD, and makes a big difference in terms of cooling. It's applied to the top of the CPU before putting the heatsink on.
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