Nicked DS3 upon cooler removal - Am I still good to go?

[WitchingHour]

Greetings everyone,

I am currently upgrading my work machine and upon doing this discovered the new cooler doesn't fit too well onto my board (Gigabyte DS3). I have decided to get a different cooler and will in the meantime be without a cooler until the new one arrives. Now comes the fun part.

There was a backing plate which stuck to the back of the motherboard with which the only way to remove it was to slide a knife down between the two while pulling off the plate and cut into the rubbery piece while pulling the plate at the same time. All was going wonderful until I reached the side and slightly nicked the motherboard itself. As this is on the back of where the CPU resides I was wondering if I've goofed the board at all by this? I've linked an image for closer examination.

Thanks in advance,
WH

PS- It's my first post, so be gentle! :tongue:

 

[tj_the_first]

I asked a tech here at work and after some technical stuff he said it should be alright.

If you're really worried you can apparently get touchup pens to replace the coating but first clean the spot with isopropyl alcohol.

 

[WitchingHour]

Hey thanks for the info!

As that region is behind the CPU socket I think my biggest concern was that if the motherboard were to have an issue from that nick that it could end up having a cascade effect and destroy the CPU, RAM, and take the Video Card along with it. I'm not super savvy on how that works.

As long as THAT'S not a possibility then I definitely plan on giving it shot, otherwise I'll finally get started on creating that Suit of Armor out of used motherboards I've always wanted...

WH

 

[Onus]

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I have decided to get a different cooler and will in the meantime be without a cooler...

I assume you won't try to turn this system on without a CPU cooler? It will instantly heat up and either shut itself off within seconds, or sizzle and pop.

 

[bobjmoran]

No problem, it doesn't look like you've cut through the run, just scraped the solder mask, you're good to go!

 

[Zorg]

Sounds like TJ_the_First is on the right track. Take a close look and make sure the cut didn't remove the trace. It looks like the foam for the backing plate has adhesive on the board side. If the adhesive is rubber cement based, which it probably is, then you could pick up some Bestine and remove it. You get it from graphic arts supply stores. It is used for removing stickers, and stuff that is mounted with 3M spray tack etc. This is one of the best chemicals around for removing stickers etc. It will not harm the mobo or most plastics. Use in well ventilated area, unless you want a headache. If you get it, be sure to get the cone shaped application can that goes with it. It makes life easier.

Good luck

 

[orangegator]

It doesn't look like you've cut any of the traces, so you're likely ok. The only way to know for sure is to try it. Also, next time try heating the backplate with a hairdryer to soften the adhesive. That way you won't need to use a knife to pry it off.

 

[WitchingHour]

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I have decided to get a different cooler and will in the meantime be without a cooler...

I assume you won't try to turn this system on without a CPU cooler? It will instantly heat up and either shut itself off within seconds, or sizzle and pop.

Absolutely not! I've managed to stay particularly careful when it comes to CPU chips (knock on digital wood) after not aligning a 486DX chip correctly into it's socket a few moons ago. A beautiful white mist flowed from the case of that build in less than 20 seconds. I believe I was upgrading to play Wing Commander III at the time. In any case, I haven't made a final decision yet on which cooler to get since this board has two rows of capacitors running alongside the CPU socket which cause a problem with larger heatsink baseplates (i.e. They get mashed under the heatsink.) So that system will be down until then.

It doesn't appear as if that trace was severed so that's fantastic. Top notch suggestions on removing the foam (Zorg) as well as using a hairdryer to first soften it up a bit (OrangeGator), I'll have to keep note of that for next time.

You know how it goes sometimes... you end up getting in these crazy pretzel-like positions working on equipment with a board in one hand, a knife in the other, screwdriver held between your toes, thermal compound syringe between your teeth, TV running in the background, stomach's growling, telephone's ringing, etc., then of course something ends up happening that shouldn't, a colorful word or two slips out, and there you go. I'm sure it wouldn't have happened in the first place if it wasn't for the TV being on... well that and removing the cooler in a more proper, non barbaric fashion.

Big thanks for all the responses on this one! I need to read into how the voting thing works as I see the option beneath all the replies.

Everyone gets a big thumbs up! Kudos! :trophy:

WH

 

[Zorg]

I'm happy to hear that. The Bestine will work for removing the HS base plate as well, just drip it on the up hill edge and work it off while applying additional Bestine at the same time. that's what the oil can applicator is for. Also, the Bestine will either act as a really good solvent or not work at all, depending on the type of glue. It probably will work very well because the glue is probably rubber cement based.