Something is ruining my Hard Drives!!!

Hi,

I don´t know what´s wrong with my computer but one thing is certain something is fu***ing my Seagate Hard Drives!! :pfff: :fou:
In the past 3 years I bought 3 Seagate HD, the first two (2 Seagate 120 gb) had to be returned after a few months each in different times, now the last drive, one Seagate 750 gb ST3750640AS sometimes makes lots of irritating ticks and with some frequency disconnects, like someone unplug the cable power of the HD ???
In Vista the drive simple disconnects in XP sometimes appears a Write delay error, something that happened before with one of the 120 GB faulty HD. I am almost certainly that this 750 GB drive have to go, although all drives pass the lasts Sea tools (Dos and Windows), the same happened before and Seagate told me to return the drive.

What you think is causing this sh**? :(

Someone told me that could be the motherboard, I have an ASUS P4C800 with the Intel 975p chipset, and it was expensive because was a top model at the time, the rest of my setup is:

Pentium 4 2.8 with HyperThrearting
2x512 mb Twinmos ram
Sapphire Radeon X800 pro VGA
Generic PSU 400W
X-FI Xtreame Gamer Fatality sound card

I already thought of the PSU also but I think this is a reasonable PSU because my previous expensive Nexus 400w was causing lots of reboots and that is very rare with the generic one.

Please Help!! :(
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More about something ruining hard drives
  1. ruibexiga said:
    Hi,

    I don´t know what´s wrong with my computer but one thing is certain something is fu***ing my Seagate Hard Drives!! :pfff: :fou:
    In the past 3 years I bought 3 Seagate HD, the first two (2 Seagate 120 gb) had to be returned after a few months each in different times, now the last drive, one Seagate 750 gb ST3750640AS sometimes makes lots of irritating ticks and with some frequency disconnects, like someone unplug the cable power of the HD ???
    In Vista the drive simple disconnects in XP sometimes appears a Write delay error, something that happened before with one of the 120 GB faulty HD. I am almost certainly that this 750 GB drive have to go, although all drives pass the lasts Sea tools (Dos and Windows), the same happened before and Seagate told me to return the drive.

    What you think is causing this sh**? :(

    Someone told me that could be the motherboard, I have an ASUS P4C800 with the Intel 975p chipset, and it was expensive because was a top model at the time, the rest of my setup is:

    Pentium 4 2.8 with HyperThrearting
    2x512 mb Twinmos ram
    Sapphire Radeon X800 pro VGA
    Generic PSU 400W
    X-FI Xtreame Gamer Fatality sound card

    I already thought of the PSU also but I think this is a reasonable PSU because my previous expensive Nexus 400w was causing lots of reboots and that is very rare with the generic one.

    Please Help!! :(



    run comprehensive test with seatool.
  2. The generic PSU is your problem, noone should ever, under any circumstances use a cheapo psu, it's just not worth it.

    I don't see how a motherboard could kill a hard drive(screw up the data perhaps but not physically ruin it)

    Also, if you've had that many products fail from the same brand, perhaps it's time to try a new brand, I've never been a fan of Seagate.
  3. depending on the stability/relability of your psu (you did only say it was a generic no-name)... but, assuming the psu is completely stable (has sufficient amps, good reviews, etc), the most other likelyhood is that youve just received some bad hdds (yes, receiving that many duds is possible, and entirely plausible)

    but, if you have expensive/remotely demanding hardware in your system, the psu is the last thing you want to skimp on

    try running something like HDTune and use it to scan for hdd errors, seagate also offers some tools to help scan your hdds for problems too
  4. To the OP. First off, loose the generic psu and get a quality brand psu of about 500wts. Your system will thank you for its longer life. Next, when you get the new hard drive, be very careful not to overtighten the mounting screws. I've seen a number of hard drives fail because people cranked the screws nice and tight, which resulted in the case warping slightly and killing the drive. I like to use a plastic washer with the screws. This helps issolate sound and helps prevent the screw from being tightened too much.

    My history with Seagates has been good through the years, one is still going strong after 6 years of hard use,, though the last one I got was DOA. That type of thing happens. You could have been unfortunate enough to get a series of bad hard drives, which is maddening to say the least. Its that's the case, then my condolences.
  5. What is your no name PSU
    The system in question is not power hungry.

    But to be safe you can get a volt meter and test the power in a molix connector as long as its within 3%(5% is the ATX spec) then you should be fine....when you do this load the system to the nuts with Orthos stress prime and a game of your choice. Give it several load idle cycles to get your voltage average and max/min

    In general it takes allot of over or under to kill a hard drive. The screw thing may be possible if you have some real tightening power.

    Some food for PSU thought

    XP 1800+ system(folding), Cable modem, Router, Switch, Altec Lansing 641's and e6600 @ 2.93 + 6HDD + 8800GTX(with no power management on) with a Samsung 950B


    All above with e6600 and 8800GTX full load


    Above with the speakers up a little.

    So off all that you can take off 50(more if they are turned up a bit) watts for the Screen and speakers. Now ure down around 500watts of AC load. Take off 20%(closer to 25+)for the loss that happens when a PSU converts power and your down to around 400 watts. Thats still 2 systems and the modem router and switch. So 400(unless its a SUPER cheap PSU) watts is plenty of power for that system.

    Not to rule out the PSU still make sure the voltage is in spec....but no need to get a 500+ watt PSU when your system takes only 300 watts MAX. The 12 volt rails matters too. but thats another story all together.
  6. I admit, a 500wt psu is overkill, but I was leaving room for future upgrades. Probably should have stated that.

    As for the case screws, one guy brought in a dead computer and the first thing I saw was the warped hard drive. It made a loud noise and the platters barely seemed to turn. He was an auto machanic and he used one of his big screw drivers for making sure it was good and tight. So its a thing I've kept in mind ever since. Its rare that I see a drive with overly tight screws, but it does seem to happen a couple times a year.
  7. I snapped a screw in a drive once....damn defective screw.....its still there :)

    I know i am not gonna over tighten screws no more...
  8. It's probably worth checking the drive temp, too. If your case ventilation is such that the drive doesn't get much/any cooling, it may run very hot and fail early.
  9. I've had that exact same problem but I realized that it was my SATA cable. Try a different one IMO as you may not see a break in the connection inside the cable. And, I'm not accusing you of being an idiot, but I hope you're not using both the SATA and Molex power plugins at the same time ;) And get a nicer PSU.

    Good luck!
  10. Right, could be a bum cable or bad MoBo connection (the connector). You don't have a RAID setup, so try the original cable in a different SATA connector. If NFG, try new cable in original socket, if NFG, then new cable in different connector.

    After that its toss the F'in Generic PSU.
  11. Thanks a lot for your fast responses,

    the computer plays a very important role in my life so I choose very carefully my components and already spend a lot, because I know that with certain components cheap stuff just doesn´t work.

    That´s is way I spent at the time (about 3 years ago) about 1750 dollars just for an upgrade and I choose only Seagate Hard Drives after seeing reviews, polls a technicians favour that brand as the most reliable.

    Also at the time I spend about 180 dollars (including shipping) on a supposedly good PSU an Nexus 400 watts which only gave me headaches and made me very hungry because I had to replace it, and then I was unemployed (I live in Portugal, in a city were jobs don´t come by easy) and could only afford an el cheapo PSU which solved the Nexus problems wich was mostly frequents random reboots and artifacts!

    I was thinking that the PSU could be also the problem as you guys say, so i replaced for a cheap one which resolved all my problems!! :bounce: Now the drives don´t disconnect, doesn´t make strange noises and pass all seatools tests, something that was not happening lately Yess :D I think i am not going to send my drives to Seagate any more. :sol:

    It is going to stay for a while until i arrange funds to buy a better one, perhaps a Seasonic, i think the new X-900 is very good.

    P.S. sorry for the late response, been busy
  12. also pay attention to the heat the hard drives experience.
    everest is the program i use to monitoy hard drive temps.
  13. I had 2 identical Segate 160 gig SATA drives go bad in quick succession (a year and one month old, both of em)and then the refurbs they sent on warranty went bad too. After I switched off that particular model of segate I have had no further trouble on the exact same PC.
  14. firetatoo said:
    also pay attention to the heat the hard drives experience.
    everest is the program i use to monitoy hard drive temps.


    Yes that´s important, one of my drives already overheated, i am going to put a fan in the HD cage to prevent that.

    A good ventilated case nowadays is one of the ways for the components last longer, IMHO.
  15. My vote is for a cable problem.

    Or the computer keeps getting nudged and that's damaging the drives. Any rugrats in the house?
  16. ethel said:
    My vote is for a cable problem.

    Or the computer keeps getting nudged and that's damaging the drives. Any rugrats in the house?


    Had to seek the definition of rugrats because i thought you were saying rodents :)

    I replaced the cables but didn´t work, the PSU was the problem, but like i said i already found the solution to the problem.
  17. Wow, you guys are really missing the whole point here..

    Okay, here it goes.

    First off, if your +5v line is dipping below 4.75v then the Seagate drives will have issues, like cutting out and starting again, sometimes leading to that "delayed write failed" message.

    The one thing to remember here is that most computer problems can be eliminated by using a HIGH QUALITY Surge protector AND/OR power Conditioner/filter.

    You see, any line noise on the AC will transfer to all the electronics that use it, even through power conversion such as our PSU's.

    Your system in any way is not over loaded, not by a long shot. Here is what I have (BTW a 500W for what he has is OVER KILL)

    My system is the following:

    ASUS P5E3 Premium WiFi-AP@n
    2GB DDR3 1333Mhz
    Intel Quad Core Q6600 2.4Ghz oc'ed @ 3.00 (to match my 1333FSB)

    4x-HDD's;
    80GB Seagate SATA - I
    320GB Seagate SATA - II
    320GB Maxtor SATA - I
    500GB Western Digital SATA - II

    2x-Optical Drives;
    Samsung SM325B (IDE; 52x24x52x16 8MB Cache CDRW-DVD Combo Drive)
    Asus DRW-1608P2 (IDE; 40x32x40 CDRW - 16x8x16 DVDRW) Bought for $30 some bucks 2+ years ago

    ATI Radeon 2600 HD Pro 512MB PCi-E x16


    And guess what I am running wattage-wise at FULL LOAD AND EVERYTHING LOADED?
    210Watts..... Yep, that's it....

    I have an Antec 450W PSU, doesn't even get hot, but guess what I have that keeps my system stable?

    APC Back-UPS 1500LCD
    (I have it tuned if AC voltage drops or spikes above a certain amount to switch to battery....it also kinda acts like a filter, too.)

    If you have the money and want to keep the "surge protector" you currently have, then for f*cks sake INVEST IN A HIGH QUALITY POWER CONDITIONER!!!

    They are full of capacitors and will smooth power and sometimes filter it also so no more line noise...

    For instance your house hold wiring can pick up AM Radio Transmissions (power is also generated by motors thus an inherent problem for everyone)

    Ever notice your tv as a kid when mom or dad turned on the vacuum and you got lines or static on the TV? Same thing comes from the power companies...


    IF YOU DO NOT WANT THE BRAND A P C THEN FOR THE LOVE OF GOD AND YOUR HARDWARE SPEND GOOD MONEY ON A MONSTER POWER STRIP/Conditioner!!!


    One very last thing is that tightening the screws too much will usually just strip them out as the metal on the drive casing or screws is soft. Unless you have WAY excessive clearance around your drive during installation or it's made of paper and your case is like 3+mm thick of STEEL, there is no way in hell will the drive EVER warp from having the screws tight.

    For freaks sake, the Casings of HDD's are CAST METAL and it's not running hot enough to fatigue the metal anyways!


    Ed:
    BTW, to further prove my point, as the "noise" is coming it, it's slowing damaging components and the first thing to get hit is the PSU.
    Then like management in a chain of command for a business, the "**** ball rolls down hill" when something bad starts to happen..


    Thanks, I Am done. Have a nice day!
  18. Awesome post tecchie. I enjoyed it thoroughly taught me a few things that i actually took notes on lol.
  19. Me too have some problem with my hard disk. The capacity of my hard disk is 120 gb. But now it is decreased into 80 gb. Every day capacity of my hard disk is decreasing. I don't know what was the problem. My friends told it will be some kind of virus. Is that so? Please help me...
  20. Well if your drive capacity is decreasing every day it might be eaten up by temp files, if not then backup everything you deem important to you onto another drive or CD's/DVD's.


    Then you need to wipe the drive, use something like Powerqwest (err excuse me, NORTON) Partition Magic, delete the partition and do a "secure erase"

    Then reboot but when windows comes to again, do not let windows format the drive, instead use partition magic to do it, but make sure your cluster size to 512bytes (in the advanced part of the program when you right-click on the drive itself.) I've been using partition magic for many years now, since version 3.0.

    If it is a virus or you think it may be then visit the online scanner (assuming your browser(s) aren't broken...)

    http://housecall65.trendmicro.com

    and scan for free..

    Also, one last thing to remember is that if the space is decreasing day by day and your system is clean, you might have one of the following:

    Bad sectors/tracks on the drive
    excessive temporary files (could be from anything)

    If the drive is pretty damn warm to the touch then put a fan on it, the drive might be over heating, and if you can help it, try not to "sandwich" hard drives together. Instead, keep at least the equivalent of one drives worth of space between them..

    If you are in a small/cramped/tight/confined space then do some cable routing, stuff cables/wires behind the drive bays if possible, just stuff them but don't make them too tight on the connectors on drives/cards/mobo stuff.......this will help promote air circulation..

    On a cooling note the fact remains is that WATER COOLING is only as good as the rooms ambient temperature unless you have something to actually CHILL the water, like a refrigerant reservoir (yes they do make them for fitting inside the pc case that actually refrigerates the coolant bringing the components connected down to roughly 40F/4.4C but I can't locate in anymore... last I checked it wasn't cheap)

    Anyways, as far as fans are concerned, you will need to do the following:

    Any fans in FRONT you want sucking INTO the case...
    Any fans on the SIDE of the case (the left hand side if it's an ATX, right if a BTX you will know what one you have) ALSO Sucking INTO the case...

    Any fans in the REAR of the case you want BLOWING OUT OF THE CASE....
    Any fans on TOP of the case you want BLOWING OUT OF THE CASE ALSO....

    99% of PSU's blow their hot air out the back, and if you have a fan sucking into the case from the rear all it's going to do is "short circuit" your cooling system.

    If you have the place to or are able to mount any sort of fans near your drives to get a cool breeze do so... If you have the space in your case to use individual drive coolers (they screw onto the bottom of the drives and usually have TWO fans on them, but take the space of two drives to use) then use them.... when drives run hot, metal components expand a little and could lead to drive failure...

    If this is any comparison, I have had a Seagate 545MB (that's right, five-hundred & forty-five MEGABYTE) IDE drive for at least 10+ years and only in 2006 did it ever fail on me due to my abuse of it.

    I dropped it in my garage from a desktop to the floor.......being concrete and all.... *lol* oooops.... but it still spins up... nothing important, it was used as a NAS server boot drive... hahahaha


    Anyways, keeping the drives cool is a MUST especially for anything over 5,400 RPM's...

    On a side note, Anyone ever heard of the Ford Taurus SHO? (Super High Output) Production years from 1989 to 1999.
    it was the "performance Taurus" an 3.0LManual & 3.2L Auto V6 had 225HP (from 1989 - 1995) then a 3.4L V8 @ 235HP (from 1996 - 1999)

    I have the 1995 3.2L Auto, needs azz loads of work, but it's my "performance/restoration" project car. had someone telling me that I shouldn't put more money into it than it's worth (KBB.org) and (this guy replacing my timing belt for me) I told him to get his ass back to work as it's my "PROJECT CAR"! hahaha I have 203,302miles / 327,182km on it... heh bought from friend.. needs motor mounts, replaced water pump, front main seal & cam seals, upper engine seals (valve cover gaskets, etc)....
    Still needs power steering (variable assist) pump and rack (there is play in the steering and pump is leaking) motor mounts (since one is worn and probably never replaced I am going to replace both with reinforced ones and new bolts)
    Tranny slips just a little, threw in some lucas stabilizer and that helped a bit.. might have to do the lower part of the engine, too, like the rod bearings, etc..

    with all the work that has to be done, it still has enough power to bark the tired, or even spin and smok'em with the E-Brake set from a stop.. hehe

    When I am done with it, it will be a "Viper Eater" (dodge Viper that is....) Not bad for Front Wheel Drive, eh?

    Check out..... one of the http://www.v8sho.com sites for more info if interested... and check out you tube videos of the v6 SHO... beating even Cadillac CTS's... lol

    -Brian

    P.S.

    I know this isn't an automotive forum, but I Thought it might be fun to ramble for a minute or two... thanks for bearing with me... :P
  21. Havent read all the comments here, but ill agree with PSU you need a quality psu to have rock solid power to all devices otherwise it cause unnessecary wear

    The other thing would be the conditions the drives are in... does your case have plenty of air flow? make sure the drives arent getting to hot, this can be checked with Speedfan (detects drive temp sensors and displays) if they are getting much hotter than about 50c you have a problem. Does the case get moved bumped during operation? this can case damage to spinning disks
  22. chookman said:
    Havent read all the comments here, but ill agree with PSU you need a quality psu to have rock solid power to all devices otherwise it cause unnessecary wear

    The other thing would be the conditions the drives are in... does your case have plenty of air flow? make sure the drives arent getting to hot, this can be checked with Speedfan (detects drive temp sensors and displays) if they are getting much hotter than about 50c you have a problem. Does the case get moved bumped during operation? this can case damage to spinning disks


    Wow you're a freaking MORON, read the posts before you decide it smart to throw your useless two cents in, sorry but I am blunt.

    Anyways, I already addressed the HEAT issue. And as for the "quality" power supply, yes and no, an el-cheapo will work for a very mild system, but anything with more than one HDD or one optical drive, you need a quality PSU...

    On that note, SPEED FAN DOES NOT WORK WITH ALL MOTHERBOARDS YOU IDIOT!!!!

    Aside from that, just plug in a multimeter (digital) to your +5V on your molex connectors and the 12V.. remember, +5V should never dip below 4.75v


    If they are a hair higher than spec, that's fine.. as long as it's not more than a half to three quarters of a volt..

    Some cheap PSU's will actually drop voltage the more devices that are on a given "RAIL"... most PSU's (just look inside them) don't have multipule "rails" for power, they are usually all tied together except for motherboard connectors.... even some quality ones..

    a *QUALITY* PSU should never cost more than $150, if it does, they are asking too much for too little..... stay away from el-cheapos as they tend to be a bargain (like the ones that sometimes come with cases) but not worth it in the end....

    Next time chookman don't be such a douche....f*ckn idiot... how old are you? jeesh..


    Last side note, another sign of a excellent quality power supply is the weight... some are pretty heavy as cheapos weigh barely more than a hard drive...
  23. Tecchie said:
    Wow you're a freaking MORON, read the posts before you decide it smart to throw your useless two cents in, sorry but I am blunt.
    Anyways, I already addressed the HEAT issue. And as for the "quality" power supply, yes and no, an el-cheapo will work for a very mild system, but anything with more than one HDD or one optical drive, you need a quality PSU...

    On that note, SPEED FAN DOES NOT WORK WITH ALL MOTHERBOARDS YOU IDIOT!!!!

    Aside from that, just plug in a multimeter (digital) to your +5V on your molex connectors and the 12V.. remember, +5V should never dip below 4.75v


    If they are a hair higher than spec, that's fine.. as long as it's not more than a half to three quarters of a volt..

    Some cheap PSU's will actually drop voltage the more devices that are on a given "RAIL"... most PSU's (just look inside them) don't have multipule "rails" for power, they are usually all tied together except for motherboard connectors.... even some quality ones..

    a *QUALITY* PSU should never cost more than $150, if it does, they are asking too much for too little..... stay away from el-cheapos as they tend to be a bargain (like the ones that sometimes come with cases) but not worth it in the end....

    Next time chookman don't be such a douche....f*ckn idiot... how old are you? jeesh..


    Last side note, another sign of a excellent quality power supply is the weight... some are pretty heavy as cheapos weigh barely more than a hard drive...


    Wow how hostile are you?

    I see you have made all of 3 posts on these forums and already you are abusing people that have made alot more contribution to these forums than yourself.

    How are my comments classified as useless? when you yourself have agreed with the majority of what i have said? You agree that the PSU could be the fault, and you said you addressed the heat issue as well... so all my comments are valid. Most people on the forums relish getting information agreed upon by a number of people as reaffirm what has been said.

    Just because Speedfan doesnt work on all motherboards doesnt mean thats its useless information and warrants aggression.

    If you had bothered to look at my profile you would see how old i am, not that it matters.

    Next time you want to slag someone off try posting it somewhere where people will care what you say.
  24. chookman said:
    Wow how hostile are you?

    I see you have made all of 3 posts on these forums and already you are abusing people that have made alot more contribution to these forums than yourself.

    How are my comments classified as useless? when you yourself have agreed with the majority of what i have said? You agree that the PSU could be the fault, and you said you addressed the heat issue as well... so all my comments are valid. Most people on the forums relish getting information agreed upon by a number of people as reaffirm what has been said.

    Just because Speedfan doesnt work on all motherboards doesnt mean thats its useless information and warrants aggression.

    If you had bothered to look at my profile you would see how old i am, not that it matters.

    Next time you want to slag someone off try posting it somewhere where people will care what you say.


    First off, I am overly blunt. never sugar coating a thing.

    Second, you repeated something I had already stated and didn't even bother to quote. I understand that people like correct information and agreement from others that have the equivalent knowledge and experience I just get irked by someone that doesn't give credit where it's due... In any case, I don't like being stomped on (for instance what you said made it sound like you were taking credit for it, never quoting or saying so and so was right about whatever) for any reason.....

    I have ADHD, and a very short fuse..

    I may have not posted here but three times but I have been coming to this site and reading for years, and when I finally get some gall to post about something I know alot of people have that's a simple fix I tend to get extremely passionate about it.... This is my first favorites of interest, next to being a gearhead..

    Anyways, my apologies.

    I just thought you were some kid (weather or not you have an arse load of posts) popping off like a "know-it-all". Like I said, I apologize for being an ass.

    -T
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