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HELP! system wont POST after 8800GTS driver install

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August 11, 2007 6:22:39 PM

Hi all....just building a new rig:
GA-P35C-DS3R
Crucial Ballistix 800 2g
EVGA 8800GTS 640mb
WD 500gb SATAII
Antec TrioPower 550
Tuniq 120 CPU cooler

installed dual boot OS (Win XP Pro and Vista). After installing OS, I installed graphics drivers from the EVGA CD in Vista. After it installed the drivers, it asked for a reboot. I click reboot, and the machine went into a perpetual cycle of powering for 3-5 sec, then rebooting, off and on, off and on, no POST. The GPU fan does not spin during these few seconds of power on. I cleared the CMOS, still no luck. Is it a dead card ? is there anything that I can do to revive it? thanks!!
August 11, 2007 6:55:44 PM

If you can get bios screen- boot from cd and insert vista dvd and try to boot from it. sounds like driver failed to finish install I had a bit of this on install but not as bad as you. If you can boot from cd and get to safe mode or the MS repair tool will come up when u boot from cd either way you can then set res to native and begin working on clearing broken driver and fresh installs.

Good luck
August 11, 2007 7:26:07 PM

He says his PC won't pass POST, that means no bios screen. It's weird that it did this after you installed the driver. Try using another video card and see how it works.
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August 11, 2007 8:10:43 PM

Clear the CMOS, might help.
August 11, 2007 8:37:22 PM

murphy82nd said:
Clear the CMOS, might help.


He already did..
August 11, 2007 10:01:42 PM

Update....

cleared the CMOS numerous times by shorting the jumpers and also removing the battery....no luck. It powers on for 5 sec, then off, then on by itself, then off, over and over and over, nothing on the screen at all, no POST.

stuck another, new video card in the PCIe slot, no change.

tried another power supply, no change.

the only thing that I have on it right now is the CPU (Q6600 set at 350 X 9), 2gb of Crucial Ballistix, Tuniq cooler, and video card. I removed all HDD connections etc.

is the motherboard now dead? why would it happen after installing the video card driver in vista?

any help is appreciated!! thanks!
August 12, 2007 1:17:49 AM

Did you make sure to remove your power cord before resetting your bios?
How do you know that your cpu (q6600) is still set to 350 X 9 if you reset your bios? Bios should auto detect the cpu.
August 12, 2007 1:41:43 AM

turned the PSU switch off when resetting bios. I'll try doing it with the power cord removed. Also, another interesting thing happened after several times shorting the CMOS jumpers without success, I had removed the CMOS battery to clear CMOS. I forgot battery was still out and restarted the system with the battery out and system did the same thing with repeat loop of powering on and off.

cpu WAS running at 350 X 9 before system crashed. If the damn thing POSTs again, I'll reload factory defaults.

thanks!
August 12, 2007 1:47:32 AM

Sounds like you need one of those Int-19 cards that will give you a code and tell you what is broken.

Statistically speaking, my first instinct would be a bad CPU. Maybe you burned it up by improperly installing the heatsink? I know you did install 2 OSes, but that seems like the first logical choice. The second logical choice would be the motherboard. I'd try to get your hands on one of the INT-19 cards and see what code you end up with. That should point you in the direction to go.

Another thought is deliberately make the computer non-bootable(IE remove the ram). Then boot up the computer and see what beep code you get. You SHOULD get get a beep code for no RAM or something. If you don't then that will probably hint at what is wrong.
August 12, 2007 2:04:51 AM

would you get a BIOS beep code if the mobo is not hooked to a speaker? in other words, does the BIOS itself give the audio code or is it given through a chassis speaker? I have never heard any code from the BIOS, even with the numerous successful POSTs before it crashed.

the Tuniq heatsink IMHO was installed properly; CPU temperature was always between 34-45 deg. celcius.

I guess i could try to install another older cpu on the mobo and see if it fired up. The GA-P35C-DS3r has a long list of compatible older CPU's.

where would I get a int-19 card? what is the card called?

thanks!
August 12, 2007 2:29:55 AM

Just an educated guess but I would try booting with one stick of RAM only and try moving it around to different slots. The fact that you were installing a video driver may be a coincidence, then again it might not. Just don't assume anything.

If all else fails I'd rebuild the system barebones outside of the case after letting the MOBO rest overnight with battery removed. If that fails to help you probably have a motherboard problem. I see no reason to suspect the CPU. 999 times out of a thousand when you have narrowed it down to either CPU or MOBO it's the MOBO.

I'd also check to see if there is a keyboard key to hold down while starting which causes your mobo to load defaults.

August 12, 2007 6:46:53 PM

Another update ....

got the mobo out of the case, left it overnight without battery and rebuilt a barebone, no luck.

got another cpu (a P4), no luck. Interestingly, there is no reboot loop if the CPU power connector is not hooked up; once the connector is connected, reboot loop.

got another memory stick, no luck.

so in short its the mobo. How and why it got killed by the video driver install I have no idea. It ran fine for a few days!

only thing is, after i verified its the mobo, as i was taking the cpu out, a small drop of the thermal grease spilled onto the CPU plate on the mobo. Not sure if this voids my warranty :( 

getting the backplate of the Tuniq cooler off the mobo was a real pain in the *** also!

whats the difference between the DS3R and the DQ6? any quality difference?

thanks!
August 12, 2007 9:20:28 PM

I have the same problem, ga-p35c-ds3r bios F4g q6600 8600gt, i think could be a bios problem.. i've tried all but with no result.

Stety
August 13, 2007 1:38:25 PM

Stety,
do you also use the Tuniq cooler?



stety said:
I have the same problem, ga-p35c-ds3r bios F4g q6600 8600gt, i think could be a bios problem.. i've tried all but with no result.

Stety

August 13, 2007 7:40:02 PM

Hello, no i have an artic cooling freezer 7....

i've send an email to gigabyte support and i'am waiting their reply after i decide to buy another one (maybe asus)

Bye Stety
August 14, 2007 12:23:46 AM

Woah, wait a sec, you dropped thermal grease onto the pins for the CPU on your mobo? That's what I am getting from you saying "back plate." If you did you're **** out of luck my friend. You may have just shorted out the mobo. I also have a Tuniq Tower 120 and they are a pain to install. You have to be really careful when installing those.
August 14, 2007 3:54:35 AM

NeOpHoRm said:
would you get a BIOS beep code if the mobo is not hooked to a speaker?


No. It’s given through the chassis speaker. My case “Tsunami Dream”, didn’t come with one (go figure) so I yanked a speaker from another case, installed it and plugged it into the appropriate connector on the MoBo front panel (this is at the very bottom of the board and labeled accordingly).

NeOpHoRm said:

in other words, does the BIOS itself give the audio code or is it given through a chassis speaker? I have never heard any code from the BIOS, even with the numerous successful POSTs before it crashed.


See above...no speaker-no sound. If you're missng a PC speaker, there's no audible beep or error code given.

NeOpHoRm said:
the Tuniq heatsink IMHO was installed properly;


If the Tuniq Tower 120 is installed correctly on the P35C, there is about 3/16 of an inch between the heatsink plate and the capacitors on the North and West side (It’s a monster so I can’t measure it now but that’s what I recall). If there isn’t an equal distance and equal clearance between the capacitors on both of those sides then you will have to turn it 90 degrees.

I also secured the Tuniq so there is absolutely no stress on the MoBo anymore. I wasn't comfortable with the fact that it would wobble slightly if I set something down on the desk or had to move the case. It took about 15 minutes and it's rock solid now. Seems to me it would be a good idea for manufacturers to provide some sort of generic flexible bracket to stabilize these heatsink fans if they're going to make them so large and heavy.

August 14, 2007 10:01:33 PM

Question on the Tuniq - when I took it off the mobo, the sticker off the back plate is SOOOOOO strongly bonded with the mobo that it ripped off the backplate, so now I have a backplate that has no sticker on it. Is this OK for the next board? and how did you secure the Tuniq - with the four screws? thanks
August 18, 2007 7:52:17 PM

another update.....received a new motherboard, was careful NOT to update the BIOS this time, and everything is ok....so far :) 
August 18, 2007 8:17:16 PM

NeOpHoRm said:
Question on the Tuniq - when I took it off the mobo, the sticker off the back plate is SOOOOOO strongly bonded with the mobo that it ripped off the backplate, so now I have a backplate that has no sticker on it. Is this OK for the next board?


I would just buy a pack of double-stick pads available at any office supply store, Walmart, etc. It should be about the same thickness as what was on the back plate originally. Clean of the back plate and cut the new pad the same shape as the other one was and apply. Then peel off the other side and mount it to the back of your new motherboard as before.

NeOpHoRm said:

and how did you secure the Tuniq - with the four screws? thanks


Yes, I used the four screws but I also cut a piece of medium gauge sheet metal to fit through the top slot of the Tuniq where the fan slides into the main unit. It’s inserted about an inch and a half inside with a 90 degree upward break as it exits the Tuniq. There are three additional 90 degree breaks (forming a U-shape) on the top portion allowing a tight fit when inserted into the rear of the above bracket (tension locks it in place inside the U-shaped bracket).

This is just temporary though. I’ll replace it with a better designed bracket and one that has a neater appearance since it’s visible through the side panel window but that’s all I had on hand at the time. The Tower would wobble (if my desk was bumped or had to move the case) when only supported by the motherboard but it's now literally locked in place since it’s supported at both ends and is completely stable with no stress whatsoever on the board.




You could easily do something similar as there is plenty of room to insert a thin metal plate. From that point, you can pretty much design the rest of the bracket any way you like that would best accommodate the layout of your case.

Now a question for you (or anyone else that owns the Tuniq)…

Do the ends of the heat pipes on your Tuniq look as hideous as mine? I’ve read a few reviews on it and when they provide pictures of the top, they all seem to resemble the same sloppy appearance as you see on this one.


August 18, 2007 8:32:08 PM

NeOpHoRm said:
another update.....received a new motherboard, was careful NOT to update the BIOS this time, and everything is ok....so far :) 


You posted while I was responding to your previous post. Glad to hear all went well.
August 19, 2007 6:53:21 PM

Nightowl - yes the top of the heatsinks do look as hideous as yours :) 

System is still stable running at 350 X 9, with q6600 running between 40-60 deg cel. depending on load.

good job on the bracket for the tuniq; this time I installed it so that the air moves to the rear of the case. This also gives more distance between the plate of the Tuniq and the mobo capacitors.

thanks for all ya'll's help :) 
Anonymous
July 30, 2010 1:40:13 AM

Change the cmos battery. Don't just take it out. If your power supply turns on and your video cards are installed properly as with your memory then its your battery that is dead. They are cheap, can get them at any dollar store where the batteries are, get '2032' not '2025' model number when replacing. Guarantee it works.
a c 171 Î Nvidia
July 30, 2010 1:47:32 AM

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