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Need help with new water cooling rig

Tags:
  • Heatsinks
  • Water Cooling
  • Swiftech
  • Overclocking
Last response: in Overclocking
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November 21, 2007 6:09:36 AM

I am thinking of building this water cooling rig I would really appreciate comments and recommendations

SWIFTECH MCR320-QP QUIET POWER 3X120MM RADIATOR
http://www.svc.com/mcr320-qp-k.html

DANGER DEN 5.25" HIGH-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE BAY RESERVOIR (1/2" BARBS)
http://www.svc.com/ddhdpres.html

SWIFTECH MCR220-QPK QUIET POWER DUAL FAN FORM FACTOR RADIATOR
http://www.svc.com/mcr220-qpk.html

CLEARFLEX 60 PREMIUM TUBING 1/2" ID X 3/4" OD
http://www.svc.com/clrflx-12-34.html

YATE LOON D12SL-12 120MM more that one of these
http://www.svc.com/d12sl-12-bk.html

SWIFTECH APOGEE GT
http://www.svc.com/apogee-gt.html

SWIFTECH MCW60-R
http://www.svc.com/mcw60-r.html

HYDOR L35 pump (I know its AC)
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~HD0920...

SWIFTECH MCW30 CHIPSET COOLER
http://www.svc.com/mcw30.html

I was planning on gutting a Kandalf LCS case and installing these components in the case. I had heard that the pump that comes with the case is prone to failure and also the radiator that comes with the case only comes with 1/4 in barbs and is more restrictive than the swiftech radiator. I was also going to upgrade to a quad core soon and to a DX 10 graphics card maybe SLI or Crossfire although I am not sure exactly which graphics card(s) to buy yet.

-I am not entirely sure if a second rad would help my cooling significantly so if any one has added a second radiator i would like to know how much that has helped your temps?

-Also I am caught between 3/8 ID tubes or 1/2 ID tubes and i realize that the pump only comes with 1/2 ID barbs.

-THG reccomends splitting the loop with a Y connector with one side going to the NB the other to the GPU's would this help my temps without lowing the pressure in my loop to a very low level

I was thinking of having the loop go in this order

Res- pump-360mm radiator-CPU-NB- 240mm Rad-GPU1-GPU2-res


My current rig is
Intel 975xbx mobo
2GB mushkin DDR2 800 ram
Intel Core 2 Duo 6600
ATI X1950 Pro
2x Seagate 250gb HD
Thermaltake Toughpowe 850W PSU

I am trying to save money where i can but at the same time get really great water cooling (i know contradiction) so if any component seems completely unnecessary I would really like to know
Thank you in advance for all your help

More about : water cooling rig

November 21, 2007 8:08:01 AM

Alright then.....

You don't really need the triple 120 rad. At Best, I'd stick with 2 dual 120mm rads. I have a TEC CPU waterblock (226watt) and I only use a dual 120mm rad to cool it.

I'm not too fond of that pump that you have chosen because, while it may have excellent flowrate it doesn't field good head pressure (only 80 inches) whereas the MCP655 and MCP355 (Swiftech) have a head rating of around 128 inches (just over 10 ft).

For purposes of definition, “Head” refers to the height of a vertical column of water. This is the maximum height that a pump can sustain any semblance of flow rate before it loses its capabilities. For purposes of an example we'll use a pump rated at 317gph with an imaginery "head" of 36 inches. At 0 inches of height you will have maximum flow rate and the pressure will be zero. Pressure is a measure of resistance to flow. Thus, at its initial discharge, at 0 height, the pump experiences its least resistance and generates its fullest flow. As the height in the cooling loop increases, the resistance to flow increases and the flow rate decreases. Earlier we said that our pump had a theoretical "head" of 36 inches. The closer the pump gets to its "36 inch" height, the less flow is generated.

So, at 0 height we have 0 pressure and 317gph. At 36 inches we have full pressure and no flow.

So you see how important "head" and "flowrate" are together.

I'd alter the order of the loop slightly...

reservoir - pump - cpu - rad - gpu - rad - back to reservoir

In this configuration, the cpu gets the benefit of the best flowrate and head pressure since the water will be coming to it straight from the pump - having the rad BEFORE the cpu will ensure that the flowrate and head pressure will be affected first.

About cooling the northbridge. Unless you do some serious o'clocking of your ram and gpu I wouldn't really bother with it. In an Intel board, the NB is the bridge between the various PCI lanes and the CPU as well as the bridge between the memory functions (ram, cache, etc) and the CPU. Most times, even an o'clocked machine can just use a decent HSF combo to cool the NB. This is strictly a novelty really. That chipset waterblock uses hooks to anchor itself on an intel board and if there is evenn the slightest uneven pressure (from the tubing) then it can sit at an agle of the NB.

Good choice for GPU waterblock but you will have to buy ramsinks for the video memory.
November 21, 2007 9:27:11 PM

Actually, if contemplating going with Quad Core, you might just want to keep the MCR-320. I have a very similar setup that I am experimenting with, with a Q6600 and 8800 GTS SSC in the loop. I also have the Apogee GT and MCW60 in this loop. Although, I have 2 MCP-655 pumps (overkill, I know...) in the loop as well. While doing this my average idle temps reach 38/38/39/39 Celcius on cpu and 42 for video. On load, my cpu temps reach 59/59/59/59 and my vid temps reach 46. Personally, I don't care for anything over 60C, and as you can see, I am coming close to that.

I also agree with Phreejak in that it is probably better to put your waterblocks in front of the radiator, so that the blocks get the benefit of the pressure first.

I also agree that the MCW30 isn't really worth it unless you will be overclocking to the max of your board.

I currently have my loop in order of...

res-pump-apogee gt-mcr 320 rad-pump-mcw60-rad-res

I would also recommend the Yate Loon D12SH fans and a fan controller, rather than the D12SL fans. For most applications, you could keep the fan speeds down, but in the event of high loads, you can get the extra airflow from the fans. Gabe Rouchon at Swiftech states that 90 CFM is all you need, to get the best performance out of the MCR series radiators. The D12SH is rated at 88 CFM, so that matches up well.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I am overclocking the cpu on this test rig to 3.0 Ghz (on stock voltages). That is a factor on the temps.
Related resources
November 22, 2007 8:10:45 AM

90 cfm so doesn't that mean 30 cfm per fan on a three fan rad?
November 22, 2007 9:24:38 AM

90 cfm per fan
November 22, 2007 2:50:32 PM

Id you have the space to fit a triple rad in your case then go for it, Idk if you will have though I can only just about fit on in the bottom of my case and thats a stacker830!

But seriously a good triple rad is like £5 more then a double rad, no reason not to get one it'll still lower temps!

However there is no reason for 2rads with just a GPU and a CPU really, if you have a highly OC'd quad and 2 high end GPU's then its a good idea to put a single rad after the CPU so it can go through the GP's cooler but thats about it. Chipset doesn't make hardly any heat.


Go for the triple rad.


Also, can I ask why you are going to use 30DBA fans? Thats quite loud it takes away one of the high points of water cooling, you likely wont need them with a triple rad .
November 22, 2007 2:57:09 PM

I have 2 MCR320s around to drop into my SMALLER CM690.

Took a little modification.. but that's the fun part.

YL D12SM-12s would be fine and cheap.
YL D12SL-12s would probably get the job done.

Both aren't that loud. They are also great on the MCR320 since it's build for "low" CFM fans and doesn't have a huge FPI count.

Get a Radbox to hang stuff off the end of the case. It's a great mounting option.

Hydor is a HORRIBLE pump.

Get an MCP655.
!