CPU: D-TEK Fuzion
NB: Swiftech MCW30
SB: EVGA SB Fan
Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Radiator: Danger Den Black Ice Xtreme II (120mmx240mm)
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES-Micro
Tubing: 1/2" Tygon
First things first, would this setup of parts work well in cooling my rig? I'm intending on overclocking my stuff as much as I can once I get all the parts and set it up. Now, one thing I have a question about is how some people are mounting their radiators in this case if they get a radiator that fits 2 120mm fans. I'd like to mount it like the LCS version of the case does in the drive bay towards the front, but they have special mounting in that case. Is there anybody here that has a Tt Armor and has their radiators mounted there somehow? Atm I have a fan suspended in the air via zip ties in the screw holes at the 4 corners. Would it be safe to do the same with a radiator? Any help would be appreciated!
Nice rig you have there, for the greater part. However, I would recommend the Swiftech MCR-220-QP before the Black Ice Extreme, as it has better performance for the same price. If you plan to cool your graphics card, I would recommend a 3x120 radiator, to allow yourself some overhead and futerproofing. Newer graphics cards and CPU's will most likely require more cooling capacity.
One of my rigs has a MCR-220 mounted in the front of a TT Armor case. I used mechanics wire in the fan mounting holes, to mount it. I also used some sponge foam to protect the bottom of the radiator. As far as I know, there are no major worries with the mounting, as long as you steer clear of the fins.
Although, I would recommend using higher cfm fans, so that you still get good airflow into the case, as the radiator will slow the flow down.
Yeah, earlier today I thought about it and may even get the MCR-320QP for futureproofing since I definitely intend to both upgrade to a quad core as well as cool the graphics card when I upgrade to one of the D8E line when they're released in January. Having the larger radiator will also let me disperse more warm air with fans running slower and quieter than 2 on the 220QP running at a higher speed anyways, right?
Cooling a NB is more a novelty than a need. Typically, a decent HSF combo can handle most conditions - even on the 680i. Only in the most extreme cases, where someone o'clocks extremely heavily, should it even be considered.
The MCW30 has two methods of holdowns - hooks and screws. On an Intel board, it uses two hooks on opposite ends. The problem with this is that if there is any uneven pressure from the tubing, it will sit on edge on the NB chip - which is dangerous for the MB.
The NB (on an Intel MB) is used for two purposes - as the center of communications between the CPU and both for the memory functions (cache, ram, etc) and the various PCI lanes (PCI, PCIe, etc) it's cooling considerations should be upgraded (beyond a HSF combo) if you plan on o'clocking those very components heavily.
If you're going 1.5volts on the 680i then water cooling is good it'll keep it cooler much quieter then a HSF and help your overclocks, and like someone said about novelty, water cooling basically is a 99% novelty anyway, it would look cool!
I intend to push my system as far as it can go, which would require heavily overclocking the NB. Plus, that little fan on the evga board makes quite a bit of noise on its own, so having the ability to remove it is always a plus.
With that in mind then I'd opt for a different NB Waterblock (like something of the DangerDen type). They actually have a NB Waterblock specifically designedf for the 680i chipset.
Also, since you plan on pushing your o'clocking limits, consider having two cooling loops. The reasoning here is that in a single loop - regardless of arrangement - one of the major o'clocked components (either the CPU or GPU) will have to suffer from the additional heat of the other. Having some kind of arrangement like, say
reservoir - pump - cpu - rad - gpu - nb - rad - back to reservoir
That would be more condusive to protecting your major components that way. Whether you mount the rads internally or externally - with or without a radbox - as long as you seperate the o'clocked parts from each other by rads.