Intel fan installation help (please respond, this is urgent)

I need help with installing the cooler. The push pins on the top side of the CPU, which have support, easily go in and click. However, the bottom two, which are stuck in the middle of the motherboard without support (from screws) won't go in. Everytime I push, the motherboard starts bending, the pin doesn't go in, and I fear I will break it. Since most people have Intel processors with the POS system, can someone tell me the proper technique (or give hints) for installing the cooler?
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  1. Remove the board. I know it sounds like a pain in the butt, but in the long run it's easier.

    Edit: Check the temps in the BIOS as soon as you boot up to be sure it is fastened properly.
  2. Just rest it on an anti-static pad while fastening? I was debating doing so while first building but opted against it. I'll try this now. Thanks for your reply.
  3. there is a center pole inside the pins that must be lined up after you put the HS on the cpu. THEN push the pins through.

    Also, be sure the pins slots on top are correctly aligned before pushing through.
  4. I would agree with zorg that it is better to install the heat sink with the motherboard outside the case. This allows you to look at the result from the back to be certain that the pins are all in evenly. If there is a trick to it, it is to push in diagonal pairs of pins instead of top and bottom sets on the same side. If in this process, you have had to remove the heat sink, do clean off the previous application of material and apply it anew so that it flows cleanly.
    ---good luck---
  5. That would be the best scenario, but he may not have any additional paste. The paste on the HS will probably still work. It won't have been heated yet.

    @nukchebi0, Anti static pad, cardboard, counter (beware of scratching the counter) etc. Ground yourself by touching the refrigerator etc. first. I would hold the mobo on it's side and put pressure on the back at the hole you are trying to seat, carefully.
  6. It has been heated...should I get some more? I think a friend has some leftover. How do I scrape off and reapply paste?

    Thanks for the direction on installing it. I find it sad that Intel has better processors but a cooling system designed by a high school freshman.
  7. nukchebi0 said:
    It has been heated...should I get some more? I think a friend has some leftover. How do I scrape off and reapply paste?

    Thanks for the direction on installing it. I find it sad that Intel has better processors but a cooling system designed by a high school freshman.
    Take a look at the HS bottom and decide if it needs to be applied. It probably would be wise. Just use some rubbing alcohol and wipe it off with a coffee filter. Make sure it is just pure alcohol with no lanolin etc. mixed in. I don't even use that POS HS, I install this:

    Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme CPU Cooler - Retail

    Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 120mm Case Fan - Retail

    Newegg's price on that fan fluctuates and is high right now, it goes for about $20.00. Down the road, when you want to OC, this HS runs really cool.
  8. Was going to get Arctic Pro 7 in the future when I had more money. Newegg reviews are stellar.
  9. The Arctic Pro 7 is not near as good as the Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme, but it is a lot cheaper. You need to take the Newegg reviews with a grain of salt. Some reviewers have a clue but many don't.
  10. I won't be OC'ing far enough to warrant a 65 dollar cooler. Is the AP7 the best low end cooler?
  11. nukchebi0 said:
    I won't be OC'ing far enough to warrant a 65 dollar cooler. Is the AP7 the best low end cooler?
    I'm not personally familiar with it, but from what I understand it is a good cooler. Here is a review of the Ultra 120 against several other coolers. The Arctic Cooler 7 isn't in there, but you could check out prices on some of the other coolers. I would look for a review of the Arctic Cooler, maybe it is compared against some of the other coolers out there.
  12. I have an arctic 7 pro on a friends machine I built, it's a quite good, much better than the stock cooler (around 10-14 degrees cooler @ stock speed, more when OC'd) and slightly quieter

    for the money, it's a very good cooler

    and it comes with pre-applied MX-1 paste which is handy for those that are worried about the correct amount / how to apply thermal paste
  13. In many cases, the stock Intel cooler does it's job just fine. Only if you have a problem that you want to solve should you bother changing it.
    1) If you plan on overclocking, then you will want a more exotic cooler. The better you can control the chip temperature, the higher the overclock.
    2) If you value a quiet PC, then a better cooler can help. The stock cooler will speed up the fan if it needs to so that it can keep the chip cool, resulting in more noise. A cooler with a large, slow turning 120mm fan will be more quiet.
    Many of these coolers will use the same pin mounting system as the stock cooler. Some will have you install a backing plate that must be done on the motherboard outside the case.

    It would be a good idea to get a small tube of a good thermal interface material. Arctic silver 5 is a good one, and not expensive. A small tube will be enough for a dozen mounts. Go to their web site for a pictured tutorial on how to use it.
  14. Thanks for all the help. I'll just stick with the stock cooler for now, and a friend said he has some AS5 at his house. I'll get it tomorrow, test it, and report. One final question: Can I use too much paste?
  15. nukchebi0 said:
    One final question: Can I use too much paste?
    Absolutely, you don't want it squeezing out all over the place. You can check the Arctic silver website for their recommendations or check Google for advice with pictures. I prefer to spread a very thin layer over the whole IHS (top of the CPU).
  16. You want to use as little as possible, but not too little. A dollop about the size of a grain of rice should be enough. Check the flatness of both your cpu and your heat sink. In the best of worlds, they each will be perfectly flat, and you can use very littlle material. If the two surfaces do not mate well, then you need to use a very little bit more, realizing that cooling will not be as good. Also, AS-5 takes some time to spread and achieve maximum effectiveness. The AS5 is not a very good conductor of heat; it's purpose is to fill in microscopic cavities and displace air which is a really poor conductor. You might want to install some sort of temperature monitoring software such as speeddfan. Don't worry too much, the cpu is designed to slow down if it is dangerously overheated.
  17. i agree with geofelt

    push the pins in, in a diagonal pattern. top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left..

    i don't think you would need any more paste, but it definately wouldn't hurt.

    and motherboards are pretty resilient. you can press pretty hard without causing the board to bust. but it has to be totally secured with the screws that screw into the motherboard tray.
  18. As far as aftermarket heat sinks go the Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme is pretty much the best (if not the best) you can get for any money with an air cooler. It most reviews I have seen it beats or ties the Tuniq Tower 120. If you are not going to OC then the stock cooler is fine, and you can even get a small overclock safely with the stock retail intel HS.
  19. I was only going small OC, so I'll stick with that. Thanks again for everyone's replies. I report back tomorrow when I have the AS5 and HS installed
  20. get a decent HS... get rid of that stupid intel HS
  21. I ran the computer with the incorrectly fastened cooler. I remember reading somewhere that the thermal material can cook off if this happens. I don't want to have to pull the motherboard out more than once, so I'll just do it properly the first time.
  22. Hey biohazard420420, nice avatar.

    And shepherds we shall be. For thee, my Lord, for thee. Power hath descended forth from thy hand that our feet may swiftly carry out thy command. So we shall flow a river forth to thee and teeming with souls shall it ever be.

    E nomini patri, et Fili e spiritu sancti.
  23. Can you translate the Latin?
  24. nukchebi0 said:
    Can you translate the Latin?
    No, but if you can I would appreciate it.
  25. I can't translate it, sorry. One more question: How wet should the coffee filter be with alcohol? Damp, or soaking?
  26. I vote for damp. The coffee filter is to reduce the possibility of leaving some lint on the parts. Any residual lint can interfere with good contact. Use a piece of filter to get most of the junk off, then use a new piece to get it cleaner, until it is as clean as you can get it.
  27. Don't get hung up on that. Wet enough to do the job but not dripping. Alcohol evaporates very quickly. It does have some water in it depending on the concentration so give it a few minutes to evaporate. Make sure it is pure alcohol without any lanolin or other oils in it.
  28. What does the lanolin do (sorry for all the questions)?
  29. I purchased the Artic Freezer Pro 7 fan to replace the Intel HS for my Q6600, and I would definately recommend the same if you are NOT going to overclock. The Artic Freezer pro dropped my temps 13-15c during load and idle respectively and it is much more quiet than the Intel HS. The artic Freezer Pro does also have those stupid push pins tho, so installation MAY be a bit difficult (Mine installed very easily, but I had trouble with the Intel push pins....dont ask why) If you are going to overclock then I would recommend the Tuniq or the thermaltake mentioned in previous posts.
  30. I will when I get more money. I don't want to spend at the moment.
  31. Ah, the infamous Intel mounting mechanism. Intel would do us all a favor if they'd spend a little time tweaking it methinks.

    Geofelt gave some good advice. Do what he said.

    Except, according to Artic, best way to apply the thermal interface material to a C2D heatspreader is a in thin vertical line, since the cores are actually positioned like that on the die.

    They still recommened the rice grain application for single core CPUs.
  32. Lanolin or other oils for skin conditioning. Just make sure it's only alcohol and water.
  33. A thin vertical line in relation to what? Perpendicular to the writing on the processor?
  34. HSF comments:

    I have an E6600. The stock intel HSF is good up to about 3.0 GHz. I can undervolt the core at 3 GHzon my articular CPU.

    Last December, when I bought the parts for the new build, I wasn't certain that a large HSF would fit the case I have. (I work in Saudi Arabia. It's VERY hard to find good cases here. And when you do, they are about twice as expensive as they would be elsewhere.) I chose an AC Pro. I wasn't sure that anything larger would fit. That got me to 3.3 GHz with stability - 24 hour orthos run with both cores loaded. It will almost run at 3.6 GHz.

    I think the AC7 Pro is the best of the budget (under $30) coolers.

    Last vacation, I brought back a Thermalright 120 Ext. I have not installed it yet. I have a short, forced vacation coming soon. I'll install it then. There's a reinforcing plate that goes on the botom of the motherboard, so the mobo has to be removed.

    The only problem that I have so far seen is that a lot of reviewers were correct. Apparently, the quality control of the machine work on the base is not that good. The base was not flat. I chose to hand lap it. I also brought back three S-Flex fans - one for the HS and two for the case.

    It's arbitrary, I know, but my goal is a 50 % OC to 3.6 GHz.
  35. nukchebi0 said:
    A thin vertical line in relation to what? Perpendicular to the writing on the processor?

    See image below (cropped info from Artic Silver's PDF):
  36. I need consultation as to whether the fan/HS is defective. I can always get 3 out of 4 pins in, but the on in the lower right corner can not click, and slowly slides back out once I push it in. Is there a specific trick to getting the last pin in, or is the fan defective, and should I RMA?

    (I have another computer, so I wouldn't care if I have to. Please do not let this affect your advice. Additionally, I think my processor may have been damaged from earlier, so it would be nice to have an excuse to send it in and exchange it. Even if it is perceived, the positive mental effect would be worth it.)

    Pictures showing the problem.

    Edit: It's more urgent now than it was earlier.
  37. Bump to get it on the front page. Look at the above post.
  38. Before you install the heat sink, turn the knobs clockwise. To remove the heat sink, turn the knobs counter clockwise, and they should release. Is it possible that the one that does not hold was not fully turned clockwise before inserting it?

    Also, check that the heat sink is not being obstructed by anything. If necessary, you could bend the high part down a little bit; it possibly could have been bent while you were struggling with it.
  39. 1. No, I checked.

    2. I looked and the gap was sufficient as to not impede movement. I would rather RMA than have to fudge with it. Does Intel take RMA for defective HS's? (They should)

    This corner has alway been a problem, even when I tried to push it in first. The pin has the movement, but can't lock.
  40. What should I make of this? I shouldn't have to spend extra money because they sold me a defective product which was was advertised to work.
  41. Rather then pay the shipping to RMA it and receive the same junk back, just take the money you would use for shipping and put it towards an aftermarket HS. They range from as cheap as $20.00 to as high as $80.00 for the top of the line air HS.
  42. I never understood why I should pay for their defective manufacturing. It would be beyond easy to win an argument over who should pay for it. I bought a product at a certain price advertised to work. If it doesn't, it isn't my fault and I shouldn't have to pay for any charges needed to fix it. The company is at fault for defectively producing a product that needs this shipping.

    Additionally, I have a question that will most likely determine my decision:

    Can running a processor too hot for a period of time damage it? I read on the Arctic website in the instruction manual that running the CPU not properly cooled, as I had done to the faulty HS, could damage it even if the CPU was ran for only ten seconds. If yes or anything slightly positive, I'll RMA it. If no under any circumstances, then I won't. In either case, I'll procure a AP7 when I order my external HD and USB stick.
  43. The Intel HSF is so ****. Enough to where I just recentely ditched it for a Zalman 9700. I could not stand the push pins because I could never get all four of them to sit in 100% proper. One was always not fully seated.
  44. Ummm... yeah... so I don't know what people are smoking but it seems like the only people who complain about installing it are the ones who have no idea how to put together a computer.

    1. Read the manual, it clearly tells you what order the pins should go in to make the process easier.
    2. There is no reason you can't apply pressure on the back of the mobo to get the black pin down.
    3. After dropping down the black pin all the way down, turn it to lock it.

    Heatsinks seat poorly the more you fiddle and reapply the sink. This has always been true with screwless heat sink mounts. It is not the fault of Intel that people can't read directions or understand what a proper fit should look or feel like. Sorry to play devil's advocate, but most of the people saying "this sucks" or whatever probably just didn't know what they were doing.

    As for how to fit it down with the pins...

    In the default fashion the opaque and black pin heads look like arrows ( ==|> ). Rest the mobo on a static free pad, make sure all 4 opaque pins are pushed all the way through the holes of the mobo. Twist the heatsink slightly clockwise and counter to spread the thermal paste. Follow the instruction book on the order to push in the black pins. (I think some earlier posters mentioned the cross pattern) When pushing in the black pins, hold the mobo up on a slight tilt with one hand on the back side of the black pin you are pushing in. This will provide the necessary support as to not flex your mobo. Push the black pin all the way down until you feel a "click", the white pin's nose should spread open and grasp the motherboard, make sure to keep applying "strong" pressure. Twist the black pin counter-clockwise by 90 degrees and it should lock into a groove in the opaque pin. (This should clearly be visible) Do this for the other pins and you are set. If you pick up the heatsink, the mobo should be firmly attached, the heatsink should not move in any direction, (twist, up - down). Then mount the mobo into your case and plug in the rest of your components.

    The groove on the opaque pin that holds the black pin in place wears out if you repeatedly mount and remount and the hold becomes loose. In terms of functionality, these are some of the best packaged heatsinks... they actually work for a reasonable OC.

    The lesson is make sure you understand what you are doing, before you do it and if you don't read the instruction manual... You might be able to still make that heatsink work, but if not, you probably will just have to get an aftermarket one...

    -Edits for spelling and grammar.
  45. jys84 said:
    Sorry to play devil's advocate, but most of the people saying "this sucks" or whatever probably just didn't know what they were doing...

    So under this logic the hundreds of people on this forum who have built multiple rigs and have decided through there experiences when comparing the stock Intel HSF against other CPU coolers led them to the conclusion that the Intel HSF is poorly designed "don't know what they are doing". Tisk Tisk think before you speak and realize not everyone agrees with Intels design. There are reasons why people have engineered better ones don't you think?
  46. chadsxe said:
    So under this logic the hundreds of people on this forum who have built multiple rigs and have decided through there experiences when comparing the stock Intel HSF against other CPU coolers led them to the conclusion that the Intel HSF is poorly designed "don't know what they are doing". Tisk Tisk think before you speak and realize not everyone agrees with Intels design. There are reasons why people have engineered better ones don't you think?

    I'm not going to get into a flame war with you, this will be my last comment to anything you post. Hundreds compared to how many who don't post and install it just fine? The majority of people posting difficulties or distaste for the design are people who don't read directions and end up failing. You make the point of comparison between stock vs non-stock... ummm how about stock vs stock for installation purposes? This Intel design is one the better STOCK designs, if installed PROPERLY, it provides a good fit and moves a good amount of heat off the processor. You bring up these faulty arguments of comparing apples to oranges to justify why you FAILED at installing a stock heatsink.

    Tisk tisk learn2read. That is reading comprehension.
  47. No flame war needed....Your words seemed a little harsh that is all. You might not find the need to post but I am sure you will read this. My comments about the Intel HSF are indeed directed towards comparisons between stock and non-stock. Why should I or anyone else accept just because it is STOCK it does not have to live up to a certain standard? Sure it does an alright job when seated properly but that’s not my point. My point is that they could have done better. As much as we appreciate standards among fit and placement there still are issues. To state that I did not read the directions (or anyone else for that matter) must mean you know me enough to have that type of information. Do you? I for one in the past month have had one fit like a glove on one rig and another just not work for a different rig. It happens and if there are “hundreds” of people complaining about it then the millions of success stories do not matter.

    To be completely fair the push pin design is not to blame. The very small manufacturing difference in the combination of components is the issue. How do they fix that? Ditch the push pin design all together and go for the more stable screw down application. What are your thoughts or anyone else’s thoughts on this?

    You made note that the more you reset the HSF the less it’s going to fit securely? I do understand there is natural where in tear but the fact that this is even an issue for someone who might reset the HSF even 50 times is a clear demonstration of poor engineering. What are your thoughts or anyone else’s on that?

    Again, no flame war needed. I am here to talk about issues respectfully as possible. Please don’t hold out on your thoughts.
  48. jys84,
    I actually have no first hand experience with the stock cooler and the associated mounting pins, because I throw them in the trash. In my opinion the stock cooler is substandard for OC cooling. Enough said.
  49. Yep ... though the monsters from the old P4 D series were good ... had to be, just like the copper ones from the last of the Bartons.
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