Seeing If Everying Is Correct In My First Computer Build.

I'm in the process of building my first computer for mainly the use of Photoshop, watching video and movies, streaming videos, and downloading. So far here's what I got:

Processor: http://www.newegg.com/product/Product.asp?item=N82E16819115030

Processor Cooling: http://www.newegg.com/product/Product.asp?item=N82E16835200025

Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16813188017

Ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16820146565

Video/Graphics card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16814130084

Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817171018
or: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817331001

Casing: http://www.newegg.com/product/Product.asp?item=N82E16811119068

I'll be reusing my two hard drives and two disc drives from my old computer. I might upgrade the processor to an Intel Core 2 Quad later on.

I'm not really sure if this set up will work or not and if it's too much for what I'm going to use it for. The power supply and the processor's cooling unit are something I'm not sure of. If anyone can help me work this out, it will much appreciated. Give me the break down in meeting the full potential of this setup and if you don't mind offer some brands or products that are good at what they do. Thank you for guy's time.
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More about seeing everying correct computer build
  1. newegg is very sluggish right now.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134

    is a better cooler and cheaper. You don't need a 3rd-party cooler unless you want quiet computing or overclocking.

    http://www.tomswiki.com/page/Tiered+PSU+Listings?t=anon

    is a list of psu brands & models. Pick a 400-500w tier 3 at least.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128059

    is what I'd use for a non-raid setup. It lacks raid.

    E6750 (best bang for the buck for a stock setup)
    GA-P35-DS3L

    I don't know how much photoshopping you do & how large the prints/photos are. If it's a home pc, 2 gigs of ram is plenty. If it's a professional desktop publishing workstation, 2 gigs would be better. Also, quad will help in applying filters & stuff.

    If you overclock:

    E4400, E2140, E2160 or E2180

    Same everything else.
  2. I guarantee 2GB of RAM for any computer if you can afford. Its good for future-proofing. I would suggest 2GB or generic of 1GB of branded.
  3. You better be sure if you want RAID. If you do RAID on your mobo, Say your mobo dies in 5 months. You would HAVE to get EXACTLY THE SAME MOBO! otherwise the raid setup wouldnt work and you would lose your data. If you go raid its better to have another drive not in the raid config.
  4. The E6750 was my first choice but I though it would be a waste in how I will use this computer. But $24 to that upgrade is a good deal. Doesn't it cost more usually to move up by that much? As far as overclocking, I'm going to stay away from it for the mean time.

    I choose the cooler because it came with a combo deal with the processor and work with the Intel 2 Quads. Also I don't really want to use the one that came with the processor because of uncertainty of what might later happen. So I decided to get that combo so that I'll be ready for anything that might happen and it has a simple design that I like. What do you think of Rosewill cooler? I don't really know what to look for...

    I like the EVGA motherboard because it doesn't have any VGA, Parallel, and Serial ports that I'm not even using right now. What's your opinion of this motherboard? But RAID is something I'm not going to as of right now.

    akhilles, if I sound like I'm discarding your suggestions, sorry about that. What price range does a 400-500W Tier 3 selection cost usually?

    Exactly how do I calculate how much power do I need? Anyone has a recommendation of PSU that has the modular cable connectors like the AeroCool ZERODBA ZERODBA?
  5.  Minimum   of   a   350   Watt   power  supply.
    (Minimum  recommended   power   supply   with   +12   Volt   current   rating   of   18  Amps.)
    Minimum  450   Watt   for   SLI   mode  system.
    (Minimum  recommended   power   supply   with   +12   Volt   current   rating   of   24   Amps.)    
    An
    available 6 pin PCI-E power connector (hard drive power dongle to PCI-E
    6 pin adapter included with card)

    From newegg's specs.

    For a stock pc, the power requirement largely depends on the video card. A 350w will be fine for that pc, but if it's upgraded, the psu may have to go. So a 400-500w psu will last a while.

    newegg's psu prices are a bit higher than before. You can expect a tier 3 to be in the $50-80 price range. Some other stores may sell them for less.

    No problem. It's your money. Spend it however you want.
  6. akhilles,

    In your opinion how does the motherboard I posted compared to the one you suggested? Other than getting a better power supply and going with the E6750, would everything else work out?
  7. I second akhilles choice. P35 is the newest chipset right now.
  8. Is the video card too much for my application?
  9. SKyriDe said:
    You better be sure if you want RAID. If you do RAID on your mobo, Say your mobo dies in 5 months. You would HAVE to get EXACTLY THE SAME MOBO! otherwise the raid setup wouldnt work and you would lose your data. If you go raid its better to have another drive not in the raid config.

    your fingers are writing checks that the facts wont cash.....
    how does a bad motherboard cause a HDD to lose data ?

    RAID (Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks)
    There are several levels of RAID the most common being RAID(0), RAID(1), RAID(0+1)
    _________________________________________________________________________________________________
    RAID(0) or "striping' offers increased data transfer speed
    Requires 1 pair of identical HDD
    If 1 drive fails all data is lost
    _________________________________________________________________________________________________
    RAID(1) or "mirroring" offers complete redundancy of data backup
    Requires 1 pair of identical HDD
    If 1 drive fails the system is easily rebuilt using other HDD
    _________________________________________________________________________________________________
    RAID(0+1) or "striping and mirroring" offers increased data transfer speed and complete redundancy of data backup
    Requires 2 pair of identical HDD
    The best of both worlds, speed and redundancy
    _________________________________________________________________________________________________

    Regardless of whatever RAID configuration you choose when the motherboard fails you must reload the Win OS,
    this is because the OS takes a Virtual snapshot of the system configuration and allows the replacement of any component except the motherboard, this is to prevent users from taking a known good HDD with a Win OS installed on it and placing it in another system, the virtual snapshots of the 2 systems are compared and the OS determines they longer meet minimum requirements and tells Windows not to boot.
    OEM copies must obtain a new product key whereas the Retail version allows you to change the motherboard indefinately w/o obtaining a new product key.
    This explains why the Retail OS rocks and the OEM version stays in the box.
    I hope you have learned from our short conversation and enlightened yourself to the joys of RAID.

    Folding@Home
  10. Whoa. You don't even game so you could go with onboard video. Are you going to do HDMI & HDTV? If the monitor is a LCD, onboard video is ok. Are you going to watch HD movies? If so, a video card would be better. Any low-end with a DVI output or two. There are DVI-to-HDMI adapters. Are you going dual monitors?

    In terms of overclocking, 650i can do the cpu, ram independently or both linked & unliked. It's very flexible. On the other hand, P35 does cpu & ram at a ratio at the same time. In terms of features, evga 650i has RAID whereas DS3L doesn't. DS3L has solid capacitors which last longer. Not sure about the 650i. DS3L has northbridge & southbridge chipset coolers that keep the system cool. The 650i has only a northbridge one, though you can stick one on it if you overclock. Both support FSB 1333. Both have similar USB ports, 8-channel audio, gigabit network, etc. In terms of drivers, nVidia mobos & videos use unified drivers - one size fits all. Intel mobos use separate drivers - Intel INF chipset, Realtek audio, Microsoft Universal Audio Architecture Bus & Realtek network.

    http://www.evga.com/products/moreinfo.asp?pn=122-CK-NF66-T1&family=20
    http://www.giga-byte.com.tw/Products/Motherboard/Products_Overview.aspx?ProductID=2599&ModelName=GA-P35-DS3L
  11. Quote:
    Whoa. You don't even game so you could go with onboard video. Are you going to do HDMI & HDTV? If the monitor is a LCD, onboard video is ok. Are you going to watch HD movies? If so, a video card would be better. Any low-end with a DVI output or two. There are DVI-to-HDMI adapters. Are you going dual monitors?
    I picked that video card because it's the newest one I can manage to afford. I'm getter a Samsung 22" LCD monitor. Most of the videos I'm downloading are starting to convert to HD quality. Every time I play it in my current computer it just load and black out the screen with sounds still playing. When I video stream all the videos are looking bad. I still would need to get a video card because neither has a video out put. I found these PSU but I'm not sure which one would work well. The first one is good but kinda expensive...

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104934
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153052
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104037
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104954

    Quote:
    In terms of overclocking, 650i can do the cpu, ram independently or both linked & unliked. It's very flexible. On the other hand, P35 does cpu & ram at a ratio at the same time.
    Can you explain this more?

    What is the EVGA' HDA audio chipset? The EVGA site said that the motherboard I picked supports 533/667/800MHz Ram. So I can use any of those Ram, but isn't it better to use the higher speed?
  12. Out of the tier-3 psus, the Fortron 500 has higher amperage on the +12v rails. The Thermaltake has a lower ripple effect, if I'm reading it right. The lower the ripple effect, the more stable. Then again, we need to see a detailed review to find the ripple effects at idle & load of both units. Usually, the ripple effect will vary under load. High end psus have very low ripple effects & very high efficiency ratings.

    http://www.fsp-group.com/english/1_product/2_detail.asp?mainid=1&fid=52&proid=135
    http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/product/Power/PurePower/w0100/w0100.asp

    Ok. In my opinion, 6x0i is easier to overclock than P35. On 6x0i, I can o/c the cpu to the max while leaving the ram at stock. To do that on P35, I have to find a perfect FSB to match a ratio that leaves the ram at stock. i.e.

    3200 / 8 = 400 * 2 = 800

    This is my current overclock. My cpu is at 3.2ghz. My FSB is 400 or 1600 (quad-pumped). My cpu multi is x8. My RAM is 400 or 800Mhz (double-rated). This is a 1:1 ratio (400:400). It leaves my ram at stock cuz my ram is a limiting factor. The most I can push the ram is in the 900-950mhz range. If I put the same cpu & ram in a 6x0i setup, I can use pretty much any FSB except the strap/wall (you can't o/c stable in a range).

    Hence, 6x0i overclocking is very flexible.

    The audio chipset on evga 650i is Azalia High-Definition audio.
    http://www.nvidia.com/page/nforce_600i_tech_specs.html
    http://www.evga.com/products/pdf/650i%20manual.pdf

    You can put 1066 ram in a 800mhz mobo, and kick the ram mhz up in bios. The bios supports 400-1400mhz ram.

  13. akhilles,

    Thank you for all the help. Just a few thing to clear up:

    If I don't do an overclock setup anytime soon, I can just use the DDR2 800 standard Ram? You said, the motherboard supports 400-1400MHz Rams, I understand that. Does this mean that the motherboard speed and the processor's speed are link...? If that's true how do you measure what Ram do you need unless it doesn't tell you? I think I'm just seeing when does overclocking or underclocking occurs?

    Does having a PFC matter on a PSU? Does the PFC deal with the summer power fluctuation because of the heat?
    I found this PSU, don't know if would be better than the Thermaltake or Fortron: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103941
  14. Yep, you can throw any ram at it & it will power on.

    By default, 6x0i goes into auto mode. There are 3 modes: auto, linked & unlinked. Auto means stock. Linked means at a ratio. Unlinked means manual.

    There are Intel features that will throttle the cpu while idle to save energy. So even if you don't overclock & run the pc at stock, it will underclock when it's not doing much. These features can be disabled in bios.

    If you get an E6750:

    1333 FSB / 4 = ~333 * 2 = 666 or 667 or 675mhz

    E6750 + 666 or 667 or 675mhz ram would be a good match for a stock pc.

    Active PFC would be better. The Antec NeoPower is overall a better psu than the other two I mentioned. It has higher total wattage and combined +12v amperage. It will last longer than the other two. NeoPower is a quality psu from Antec. Their worst would be SmartPower.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor_correction#Active_PFC

    You're welcome.
  15. akhilles,

    "1333 FSB / 4 = ~333 * 2 = 666 or 667 or 675mhz" - How did you get this calculation?

    So if I follow the motherboard's standard memory advice and throw in a DDR2 800, I will be overclocking the processor according to your calculation. Then if I use the computer for browsing the internet, downloading big files with BT, or video streaming only. The processor will underclock..? Is this good or bad?

    The thing I like about the other PSU is that it had more peripheral connectors that most out there. Because right now on my computer I have four components that uses the peripheral connector, two for my disc drives and two for my hard drives. Then for the when I put these components in to the case, I'll have three fans to power up. Unless they are powered up differently..? The thing i like about the Antec PSU is that the modular connector setup. I read some comments on this PSU in Newegg and some were experiencing not powering up, lost of power, random restart, and. Any thought in that. But a lot of people from this forum were suggesting the Antec PSU which is the first time I've heard and check it out.

    Right now I'm running these two hard drives. Don't know if they are SATA powered? Are SATA hard drives better?
    Maxtor Fireball 40GB Hard Drive (setting up for OS, programs, desktop)
    Western Digital Caviar WD1600BB Hard drive (My Documents and storage)
  16. http://processorfinder.intel.com/details.aspx?sspec=sla9v

    In the specs, the fsb is 1333 & multiplier is 8. Also, Intel FSB is quad pumped. You'll get used to it in a 6x0i setup cuz 6x0i will use the exact quad pumped #. i.e. FSB (QDR) 1333 in the 650i bios for that cpu. DDR2 is double-rated. Always mulitply it by 2 to get the common mhz. I think it's largely marketing hype to make people think they are faster.

    AMD also throttles cpu down when idle. It can be disabled in bios as well.

    Underclocking/throttling happens in every stock pc. It's good for the electricity bills & the environment. Don't worry about it. As soon as you move the mouse & click something, the cpu will be back at stock speed at once. On the other hand, some overclockers don't like it. A growing # of overclockers are liking it.

    newegg comments/reviews should be taken with a grain of salt.

    In everyday's work, SATA & PATA(IDE) are about the same. The only times you'll notice a difference is when you copy gigabytes of data from one drive to another on SATA. When upgrading harddrives, I clone my drives & the time is cut down by 1/3 to half on SATA. Also, when you wipe the drive with a few passes for security reason. For servers, SATA would be a better choice & SCSI would be best. For home pcs, PATA or SATA is ok.
  17. akhilles,

    I don't understand how you got the multiplier and your post before that you used 4 as the multiplier..? DDR2 uses 2 and DDR3 would use 3, am I right?

    "On the other hand, some overclockers don't like it. A growing # of overclockers are liking it." - What do you mean by this, are you talking about the Ram? If so, may I ask how you can figure that out.

    About the Crucial Ballistix 2GB Ram I picked for my system, would that be too much? As in how I will be using my computer. Plus I what o shave off some expenses without compromising quality and performance. I picked it because Crucial have a high rep, especially because of being Mircon and all. Beyond that, I don't really know about the other...

    I just found this page, do you think you explain to me what they mean on this page: Two DRAM Sides Are Better Than One

    "newegg comments/reviews should be taken with a grain of salt." - Thought about that and most of the people that give bad Cons are the ones that was out of luck...
  18. No, 4 is the quad-pumping. Intel fsb is quad pumped. You divide the fsb by 4 to get the real #. On 6x0i, you don't do that cuz the chipsets use the exact quad pumped #'s & double-rated #'s.

    1333 / 4 = FSB. which is 333.25 mhz or 333. Like I said, it's marketing hype that is confusing the consumers.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pumping_%28computer_systems%29

    I was talking about the Intel throttling features. You wondered if they were bad. How I figure? Simple. I read. Go from forums to forums. This is only one of the forums I go to. Overclocking forums are my favorites.

    If I were you, I'd get a 2x1gb ddr2-800mhz ram kit. If you can get the rebate for the ballistix, go for it.

    For ddr2, double-side & single-side don't matter as much as the rated speed, timings & price.
  19. After reading the article link in the wikipedia link, I finally understand about the quad pump and the 2 in the equation came from DDR being double rated. Thanks for the help.

    When you said "overclockers," I thought you meant the processor... But you meant the people that do that, am I right?

    By the way I had to order my case and power supply ahead of the the rest to get the rebates that ends today, September 14. Here's what I went for:
    Antec NeoPower NeoHE 550
    COOLER MASTER RC-690-KKN1-GP

    O.K. Here's the situation now. I need a good quality video card that will perform really well. I want something that will blow my mind off without blowing my budget. I need it for Photoshop, viewing downloaded videos with some being HD, video streaming, and for some DVD watching. Of all the video cards I list below, which one are your top three? Indicate which ones is your first and last choice. Sorry for the long list.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130085
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150230
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130088
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150229
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130091
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150228
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130084*
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130086
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130286

    *This is the one I picked right now.
    I like the fact that EVGA gives you all the accessories.
  20. Yep, I meant the people who overclock.

    zzf has a rebate for the case as well.

    http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=10006342

    The case looks very subtle. Very Transformer-ish. Similiar to Antec900. This CM can hold more fans. There are 4 hidden fan mounts: 2 in top, 1 in bottom; 1 behind mobo tray. I would install at least 1 more 120/140mm fan in the top to cool the cpu. The holes in the mobo tray are brilliant. Gigabyte knows there are boards with cooling backplates: i.e. their DQ6 series. The 5 external & 5 internal drive bay cages spell the end of floppy drivers.

    http://www.coolermaster.com/products/product.php?act=detail&id=2908

    "at €76/$70 this case is the best there is at the price point, you%u2019ll be hard pressed to find a mid tower ATX enclosure which packs as many features as the CM 690."

    http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=getarticle&number=1&artpage=2846&articID=620

    I'm a gamer. Of course, I would pick the fastest I could afford. My family pc is similiar to yours: Photoshop, mp3, youtube, internet, board games (sudoku yuck) & video editing. They got the hand-me-downs from my previous pc. I stuck a 7300 video in that cost about the same as 6200. They prefer stand definition. Mine is 941BW. We have dedicated dvd players.

    The only difference is that you need high def, which means wide screen, which means a video card with HD encoding & decoding. If the video doesn't have this feature, the cpu will take all the load and playback may be choppy, depending on the background software. nvidia site can help you choose the right video:

    http://www.nvidia.com/object/geforce_family.html

    This is my suggestion:

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130287

    The accessories don't mean much cuz you're hooking it up to a DVI/VGA monitor. The brand & customer service are more important. evga is one of the best. You don't game & you'll never make full use of 8600/7900 or better.
  21. The case I got is good..? I mostly picked it because of it's design inside and out. I should have gotten it at the site you provided. Is there a way to cancel one of your item in your order in Newegg?

    Do you have a suggestion that's HD compatibility with two DVI ports? Like this one:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16814130085

    If I'm just going to use it like I said before, won't the E6550 be enough or the E6750 is too much of a bargain for the price..?
  22. Don't know if you can cancel an item at newegg, but some stores let you cancel it before payment. If it's already paid for & sent out, you may have to pay for a return shipping & even up to 15% restocking fee. Call newegg to find out.

    It's all up to you. You don't have to listen to me. You can even go against my suggestions. It's your money, after all.

    In reality, any video card with a DVI output can be hooked up to HDTV/WD-LCD with a DVI-TO-HDMI adapter. 8500 would be the minimum for your usage. Anything up will handle better.
  23. "Also, when you wipe the drive with a few passes for security reason." - I forgot to asked you about this statement you wrote a while back. What do you mean?

    The E6550 would be more than enough for my application, am I right..?
  24. IMO, you should spend more money on the cpu & less on the gpu cuz you don't game & you'll be on your desktop the whole time. That's just me.

    e6550 is more than enough for you. Even e2140 can handle it. Would you like to see results faster?

    Wiping harddisks is a standard procedure for security-minded people before getting rid of the harddisks. 3 passes would be minimum. 7 would be good. 21 would be best. The more passes the more difficult it is to restore the data. A 7-pass wipe is pretty good against amateurs. To give you an idea of the time, it took me a day to wipe a less than 100GB IDE hdd with 7 passes. It takes me about 2 hours to wipe a 250GB SATA hdd with 3 passes. Your mileage may vary.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File_wiping
  25. Your right. I'll go with the E6750 if I want to build a system that's out of phase of technology mainstream. Thanks for all the help. I'll post up my final set up as soon as recalculate my total.
  26. Unfortunately the Rosewill cooling unit for my processor run out. Would this be a better substitute:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103001
  27. Freezer 7 Pro would be better & quieter.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134&Tpk=freezer%2b7%2bpro

    Let us know your final specs. Others may build around this multimedia desktop.
  28. Do you have a second choice because I don't really see it to be very structured. I might overclock when I when I find out how to do it.
  29. Freezer is the cheapest among the good coolers, & cools rather well. & is pretty quiet. The other good coolers are thermaltake typhoon, scythe infinity & ninja, thermalright ultra 120 extreme & noutua NH-U12F.

    Freezer is probably the easiest to install. Scythe coolers' pushpins MAY break after a few installs.
  30. Can you post links for those? I can't find them in Newegg...
  31. Here's my final setup. I'm going to wait on the third-party cooling unit for my processor because where I bought my processor. They charge a 15% restocking fee regardless. So I was going to get that combo with Newegg but now I can't. So I'm just going to wait till that Rosewill cooling unit goes down in price. I don't that Rosewill just hangs on me for some reason. Well here you go, some price have shifted since I purchased mine.

    Processor: http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=10005522&prodlist=pricegrabber

    Video Card: http://www.clubit.com/product_detail.cfm?itemno=A9602838&cmp=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r

    Motherboard: http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=246716

    Ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16820146565

    Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817103941

    Case: http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=10006342

    Operating System: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16832116056

    I need help in how to setup the Ram with the Processor..?
  32. Looks great!

    I just found out that Antec has a small Earthwatts 430W psu on sale for $40 after rebate. It's pretty good as it's made by Seasonic. By my calculation, the combined +12v output is 30A - plenty of even 8800gts (i'm sure some would disagree and throw out a 600-1000w psu). And yes, it's good for your 8600gt. Antec NeoHE is also made by Seasonic.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371006

    Now I don't think you need help. Just read the mobo manual. You install both sticks in either channel. Each channel is made of 2 slots. The layout varies from board to board. On post, you'll see dual channel on the screen.
  33. Thank you for the suggestion. But I think I got a bargain when I found the Antec NeoHE for 55 after rebates. I might need more power anyways later down, so the 550W will last me for a while. Thank you for all the help. I'll post back how everything went. Today I got my PSU and video card, I sent back my case to Newegg because I found it at ZipZoomFly cheaper. The box for the case was huge... My only question is: Why are they splitting up the +12V..? Overclocking is to run your processor at a more higher speed that it was designed to, is this correct? Would I have to overclock my processor to fully run my Ram?
  34. You're right. I didn't realize the psu has a rebate.

    I don't know what you mean by splitting up the +12v. You mean there are 2 6-pin pci-e cables?

    Overclocking is to run any part beyond their specs. Be it cpu, ram, pci, etc.

    Not necessary. The cpu/ram ratio both does & doesn't apply to 6x0i cuz 6x0i, like I said, can o/c cpu & ram independently & together. Depending on ratio. i.e

    1333 / 4 = 333.25 * 2 = 666.5

    By default, your ram will be at 666mhz unless you change the ram settings to specs. Is that what you meant when you asked for help with ram? Ok.

    http://www.nvnews.net/reviews/evga_nforce_650i_ultra/images/bios1333.gif

    You will input exactly what is shown on the screenshot. The exception is your 8x multiplier. Unlink both, enter 1333 for QDR & 800 for DDR. That will be stock speeds. No o/c at all. Everything else including voltages & ram timings should be at auto. Before the next upgrade, you'll have to clear cmos or else the new cpu/ram may not work at all or may not be at optimal performance.
  35. Not really, I mean when I looked at the sticker of the power supply's outputs and inputs. Mine actually has three +12V column. That's what I don't understand.

    I thought that you need to match the RAM with the processor because to get the full use of them..? But I get it now. The RAM is where the processes are stored for what you are doing and the speed and amount in the RAM independent to that of the processor. Meaning that it's the same as a hard drive. Is this correct..? Can I manually input the voltage and timings that's indicated by the components? Or would it be better to leave it at auto.

    I understand what that equation but I still don't know how to get the multiplier..? Also, are the Quads quad pumps? What's CMOS? When you say upgrade, You mean when I change to a different processor and RAM specs?
  36. 3 columns? I see 5 plugs in the back of the psu. You have to google a picture for me.

    The average user needs to match ram & cpu cuz they wouldn't bother with bios settings. They want it to just work. & most every oem pc manufacturer like HP, Dell or IBM does a good job at matching ram & cpu.

    Yep, pretty much that, regarding ram. The e6750 cpu has 4mb cache memory that isn't useful to the end user, but to the OS. The hard disk doesn't store the processes, unless you mean page files or cache. By processes, I take it you mean the running processes in the background. i.e. those in task manager.

    Yep, you can manually set everything up to specs, but I'm afraid that you will forget to revert the changes by clearing cmos (the mobo manual will explain this) when you upgrade to another cpu or ram that has different specs. Another way is to select "load defaults" & save in bios right before upgrades.

    All Intel FSBs are quad pumped. Doesn't matter what chip it is. 65nm. 45nm (coming out in nov in the form of Xeon).

    To get the multi, you go to intel site & search for the cpu model:

    http://processorfinder.intel.com/details.aspx?sspec=sla9v

    This is your cpu. Bus/Core Ratio is the multiplier. It's 8x. A quick way to find the multi is divide the ghz by fsb:

    2660 / (1333 / 4) = ~7.9 or 8

    I don't need to see the specs. Just give me the default speed & fsb.
  37. I was just saying that the RAM act as a storage like the hard drive. But each are independent from the processor. By process, I mean everything that's running.

    "The e6750 cpu has 4mb cache memory that isn't useful to the end user, but to the OS." - What do you mean by "end user?" The cache isn't the amount of date it can pass through chip. But if the program doesn't use both core, all the cache are combined into one. I think this how it works..?

    Thanks for the multiplier finding.
  38. In the industry, end user means you, the user. Read an end user license agreement in any software during install.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_cache
  39. O.K. Just to clarify something. My coworker told me that to get the full potential of my processor, I would need to get DDR3 1333 RAMs because the processor is rated at 1333 FSB. What's your opinion?

    During my coworker's conversation, I just got really confuse about the FSB rating of the processor and the processor's speed. Rereading the sites you gave me, I know that their both derived from the true FSB and that the rated FSB is the speed the processor communicate with the northbridge. But what's does the processor's speed tell you about how it runs? Or is it the hyped your where talking about?
  40. :) That's funny. You should ask him if he has used any 6x0i mobo. I have. I overclocked only the cpu. Heck, I still help my friend with his 680i mobo.

    IF you don't touch the bios, everything will be at stock. 800 ram will be 667 (reason being: memory makers make sure their products will work in a wide range of boards). You won't get full potential of your ram. Your cpu WILL be at full speed by default.

    He doesn't know that 6x0i can run cpu & ram unlinked. You can run any speed of supported cpu & ram at full speeds as long as you input the right numbers in the bios.

    Strictly speaking, it's not mhz/ghz that counts. It's the benchmarks. Overclockers talk about benchies. AMDers like to talk about clock per cycle. Amd chips do more CPCs than Intel ones, or they used to. Hence, an AMD processor at a lower speed can performance about the same as an Intel one at a higher speed.

    You got that right. It's all about marketing hype. I think it started with DDR. DDR-400 is really 200mhz. DDR2-800 is 400mhz. Intel makes the FSB quad pumped. To the average user, big numbers mean faster speeds. Not necessarily true.

    Another example is the same ram at different speeds & timings:

    DDR2-800@ 800Mhz 4-4-4-10 vs
    DDR2-800@ 850Mhz 5-5-5-15

    Which do you think is faster? 850mhz? Not necessarily. The 800mhz at tighter timings can perform on par with or outperform the other.

    Like I said, benchies are what count. I suggest you google benchmarks of a few cpu's or ram sticks or mobos in the similar price ranges. i.e.

    e6750 e6600 benchmarks
  41. By the I never asked you what is a "6x0i?" Is it the type of motherboards?

    If the RAM and processor are linked, they have to matched? You said that you can run any speed for the RAM and processor but if you run a slower speed than the minimum the processor needs, i.e. 1333 FSB processor need at least a DDR2 667 RAM to run efficiently. the only thing you would have is a slower retrieval time?
  42. 6x0i simply indicates the 650i & 680i chipset-based mobos for Intel socket 775. The suffix i, I think, denotes Intel. nvidia-based AMD boards may have no suffix or "a" for AMD. Just the #. i.e. nvidia 570 & nvidia 680a

    Linked CPU & RAM run at a ratio. i.e. QDR = 1333 & DDR = 666 at 1:1 ratio. or QDR 1333 & DDR 999 at 1:2 ratio. or QDR 1333 & DDR 1333 at 1:3 ratio. & yes, there is 1333mhz memory for sale at a premium.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010170147+1052429248&name=DDR3+1333+(PC3+10600)

    I'm not sure I understand your last bit. You meant the ram runs at like 665mhz? That will slow down the ram by 1mhz. I'm sure C3P0 will complain about that. ;) By the way, your coworker isn't C3P0, is it? lol

    Oh I forgot to add that even though the cpu will be at full speed, BUT there are about 3 bios settings that are Intel's energy-saving features that will throttle down the cpu by quite a lot when idle. My cpu at stock is 2.0ghz (10 x 200). If my pc idles, the cpu will run at 1.2ghz (6 x 200). Right now I disabled the 3 settings. I'm not sure about your cpu.
  43. I was just curious as to what will happen when running a RAM speed lower than what is required for the processor to run efficiently. My processor needs DDR2 667s, but what will happen if I run something like DDR2 533s with the processor.

    Isn't it better to run RAM about the actual ratio of the RAM and processor. I.e. running DDR2 800s instead of DDR2 667s on a processor with a 1333 MHz FSB?

    What do you mean by "C3P0?"

    Yeah you told me about Intel's processors underclocking when idle, but they will back to full speed when you start doing something again.
  44. If you run 1333 cpu & 800 ram at a ratio, either one will lose some mhz in order to make a ratio. That's not using full potential. Pick a ratio. You do math.
  45. I get that. My wording was off to what I was talking about. I was just saying that it would be better to get DRR2 800 RAMs than getting DDR2 667 RAMs which is a 1:1 ration with the processor? But getting something slower like a DDR2 533 would put a strain in processor because it has to wait for the data.

    What do you mean by "C3P0?"
  46. It would be best to get the 800mhz ram, cuz down the road you wouldn't have to upgrade ram again if you upgrade to another cpu.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C3P0
  47. I though you meant C3P0 from Star Wars, but I still don't understand what you meant though..?

    Today I got everything in except for the RAM and OS. Hopefully later this week cause I ordered it today, September 25. Then start assembling it this weekend or sometime next week. When I got the case today, a little while after I receive it, I opened it up out of curiosity and found it really interesting. Probably going to add two 140mm fans on the top to get a greater suction of hot air. The case has already three 120mm fans, two for taking air in and one one the top-back for taking hot air out of the system. So I figured that two 140mm fans on the top will give me the best cooling...
  48. Never mind that joke.

    Somebody should write a step-by-step guide to building a MODERN pc. Many on the Web are kinda outdated (from Athlon/Pentium era). This is not bad:

    http://www.waterwheel.com/Build_A_PC/build_PC.htm
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