E2140 vs E2160?

A little while back toms did a review on the E2160 and it's ability to overclock, but I have a question, why didn't they use the E2140? Do they both have the same multiplier? If they're both basically the same processor but the e2140 is clocked down, couldn't they have reached the same overclock with it as well?

thanks in advance

Yeah that doesn't really answer my question...

Well if the 2180 has a 10x multiplier, why didn't toms use it? Wouldn't it yield higher overclocks?

So would it be worth the extra $7? I'm looking for a good 3.2 - 3.4 Ghz overclock with a p35 gigabyte motherboard, with some ddr2-800 crucial ram. You think it would be "easier" to accomplish with the e2180 over the e2160? what i'm asking is that is there any way the e2180 will be a worse overclocker than the e2160?

So 10 multiplier at 340 fsb is doable with a e2180? Would it be better to clock down the memory to ddr2-680 at a 1:1 ratio or do some other ratio?

Thx

Well I don't think that's going to make much of a difference since on the p35 I think I can do 400 fsb, so 11x multiplier isn't really needed. Plus by december this won't be as much of a budget build as it is now, if you know what I'm saying. Question though, you know a video card that can be compared to the e2180 in overclocking potential? something like the 7600 gt?

Well it's only a $7 difference, that's what I'm saying. And you never know, in the review by toms it said that they weren't sure why the chip wasn't stable at 3.3 ghz but only stable at 3.2 ghz, maybe it was just an fsb wall inside the chip...they didn't mention it getting hot or anything.

In my build im getting a 2180.......its $7.....big whoop and for all you know it will be better......i dont think theres any way it will be worst...maybe not better but not worst

beyond the fact of a boost......you just will get something a little more reliable......less chance of FSB wall....slightly lower temps.....and MO stepping (tolerates heat better)

I read another individual suggesting the 7900 as a good gpu since it is top of the line for dx9, and apparently dx10 cards (ie nvidia 8 series) still have a few issues with them.

They 2140, 2160, and 2180 are all M0

Not true - most of the ones you saw being OCed eary on were the older stepping. NOW, they're M0, so it's a big deal.

The real gem to look out for, though, will be in a few months - the e2220. 2.4Ghz and a 12x multiplier. FSB266=3.2Ghz. There's no way it's going to hit a thermal or FSB "wall". Of course, it'll go up to 4ghz pretty easily I bet, but 3.2 is the same as this review did - and at a perfectly sane/0 life expectancy problems 33% OC. (33-40% is about where you can do without increasing voltages).

$98 when it comes out. Really a no-brainer if you can wait 4-5 months.

If you plan to upgrade, buy the 2140 or whatever is cheapest. That way, you're only out $60.

The general rule of thumb is that most processors are built with a 30-40% margin in them(same with most any engineering), even if it's not stated. It should be possible to run most CPUs without life expectancy issues if you keep it to no more than 30-40%.

Since CPUs are so cheap, a lot of people push them hard as the cost/benefit ratio is good. ie - replacing a $60-$70 CPU isn't a big deal a year or two from now, while replacing an overclocked Q6600...

Of course, you need adequate power and cooling. That means 6 or 8 phase power or filtered power(good MB is cheaper now than a $300 UPS/conditioner, but either will work) - clean as possible, because you're pushing the CPU beyond its design specs.

Cooling is best done like this:
- Use a Dremel (be sure to do this fully disassembled and vacuum and clean scrupulously) to cut out every stamped grille in the case that has a fan at or near it. You want big gaping holes and zero back-pressure. Replace these with round wire grilles. 3/4 of fan noise in most systems is back-pressure. You put a fan against a bunch of perforated metal and well, it sounds like a small vacuum cleaner.
- Big fans in the rear and side - all blowing OUT. No intake fan - just a clean path for air to come in with 50+ CFM of negative pressure. Consider removing a drive bay cover as well to serve as an intake. The goal is to move air as quickly as possible(slightly different than CFM) with the least noise. Air has a limited amount of cooling capacity, so speed is the key. My only intake for instance, is a 3.5 inch bay cover that's not there. This creates a huge suction effect and cools the air as it enters the box.
- I also use a slot fan two slots away from my video card(Zalman GPU cooler added - big round thing) - Video card heat is sucked off immediately. A side vent fan blowing out also does the same job(ditch the plastic CPU funnel)
- Total system fans: 4. 1 120mm in the rear(Sythe S-Flex). 1 slot fan(Evercool blower). 1 power supply fan(120mm Antec). 1 video card fan(Zalman). The CPU cooler? It's a Zalman 9500 with the fan removed. There's enough straight-line airflow to make it work passively, even overclocked.(why I have that slot cover off) Total system sound is under 35db. Cheap and quiet. I chose the S-Flex because it's the one fan that I can't have die, so I went with the Sony fluid bearing design. It's about 30db, but it's tons better than the alternatives. Of course, most people will want to use the 9500 with the fan, but it never ONCE turned on so I removed it.(two screws and a connector)

Cost: Slot fan $10. S-Flex 120mm 67CFM $20. Zalman 9500 - $45. Zalman GPU - $35. Antec PS: 550W True Power Trio(on sale at NewEgg)