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Stumped, cant get system to Post! (all green LED)

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October 26, 2007 2:18:55 AM

First time poster....

Specs:

MSI P6N SLI Motherboard (NForce 650i)
1 Gig of G.skill DDR800 ram
Geforce 8600 GTS video card
700 Watt Epsilon power supply

My D-Bracket, is showing all 4 green LED's - which is very confusing, because the system wont post. the first thing that came into mind was the video card could be bad, but i tested it on another machine and it works fine.

Ive reset CMOS, and I've tried unplugging optical drives and hard drive, always same response, boots with all 4 green LED's but no video.

has anyone had a similar problem, or any ideas to troubleshoot this?

edit: Also ive tried using 2 different monitors
October 26, 2007 4:59:31 AM

well I unplugged everything and plugged it back in, except the front panel USB / LED switches, I simply double checked them and made sure they were snug.

I also reseated the processor.

Now the D-bracket shows 1 3 4 Green, and 2 Red.. my manual says this for that coding:

Initializing Floppy Drive Controller
This will initialize Floppy Drive and controller.

I don't have a floppy drive... so I'm not sure what this error means.

Any input would be appreciated.
October 26, 2007 7:56:55 AM

Go into the BIOS and disable the Floppy drive, and "boot up floppy seek". Most BIOS's enable these by default.
Related resources
October 26, 2007 12:28:47 PM

I hope you have installed a compatible cpu cuz there's a plague at tom's where builders try to power up a psu alone, a barebone w/o cpu, etc. No kidding.
October 26, 2007 12:35:28 PM

Endersun said:

Ive reset CMOS, and I've tried unplugging optical drives and hard drive, always same response, boots with all 4 green LED's but no video.


tlmck said:
Go into the BIOS and disable the Floppy drive, and "boot up floppy seek". Most BIOS's enable these by default.


Some people just can't read...How exactly is he supposed to edit the BIOS on a computer that's not POSTing?

EDIT: Does your mobo have onboard video? If so, try taking the GeForce out, and running off the onboard first.
October 26, 2007 1:42:07 PM

If you're not posting at all, you have a hardware problem somewhere. Did you seat your motherboard on the stand-offs?? (The little brass pegs that go between the motherboard and the back of the case)

What CPU do you have? You only list that you have a CPU and give us your motherboard type. Is it Intel or AMD? Only AMD AM2 processors work with the M2N boards.

Other things to try: Put the RAM in another slot and make sure your motherboard can handle that type of RAM. Some boards, like VIA or ECS won't let you put non-dual channel ram in the dual channel slot / force you to put a stand alone piece of RAM in slot 2 instead of slot 1.

Floppy drive: Disconnect the power cable to it completely or make sure you don't have it on upside-down.

*If it was a video card issue, your system would at least POST then give you one long beep.
October 26, 2007 7:51:06 PM

MSI P6N SLI-FI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 Conroe 3.0GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E6850 - Retail

The Motherboard supports 1333 FSB, and thats what my processor runs at.

I have no onboard video and I do not have a floppy drive either.

I was able to make all nine stand-offs match 9 of the motherboard holes, although I only had 8 screws, so I didnt screw one of them in, but it seems sturdy.

Another thing is that my ram runs at 1.9v - 2.0v and my MB recommends 1.8v ram, but I have heard on more than 1 occasion of people using ram over the voltage and it working. Wouldn't my D-bracket show a memory problem if it was? Anyway, heres the ram I'm using:

G.SKILL 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Desktop Memory Model F2-6400PHU1-1GBNR - Retail

How can I tell if its dual channel? I'm gonna try sticking it on the DIMM2 anyways though.

Also thanks for the suggestions I just woke up and had my breakfast, so its troubleshooting time....

edit: also... how loud should my processor be? I don't think I'm hearing any processor grinding on power up, but my D-bracket never shows faulty processor. If it doesn't post, then the processor won't make much noise anyways right?
October 26, 2007 8:42:45 PM

Processors are silent, perhaps you were thinking of the HD? Or was it the CPU fan you were thinking of?

Until you sort this out attempt to boot with barebones only!

1.CPU (along with heatsink/fan of course)

2. I and only 1 stick of RAM!

3. Video card

4. Power to 1. main 2. Aux 4 pin cpu 3. Video card

5. Monitor and keyboard.

Re-set CMOS

If it won't then boot try moving the RAM to different slots and try replacing the RAM stick with another.

Once it boots then and only then add anything else back in.

Since you have tested video card if this barebones will not boot you have either a malfunction of mobo or PSU or RAM, or CPU - not likely RAM if you have more than 1 stick to test. Not likely CPU since they almost never go bad.

Check and re-check all connections power, cpu fan etc. make sure no shorts.

The PSU would be the first to test by replacing it with another, much easier than replacing a mobo
October 26, 2007 10:18:11 PM

Your right I was thinking of the grinding sound the HD makes. Well I reseated my processor for a 3rd time, and I examined the processor and pins on the MB, and nothing seems to be damaged, I went ahead and put some arctic silver on the processor while I was at it. And according to my motherboard and processor they support each other.

I took the motherboard out of the case, and just put the skeletal crew in, my D-bracket, video card, ram, and CPU.

I plugged the power accordingly, 24pin, and my 4+4pin into the 8pin ATX CPU power connector. Plugged in monitor and keyboard, and reset CMOS.

All my fans boot up, and the MB lights light up saying its charged when I power it on, Im doubtfull it is the PSU.

On boot, my D-bracket goes all 4 Green LED's but im not getting any video... no POST, or Beep. Back where I started it seems.

But at least I got it narrowed down. Im thinking its the RAM. the RAM I have isnt in the supported list on my MB manual, and it runs at 1.9v-2.0v when my motherboard supports 1.8v.

Well at least I know what the next step is, I just need to find someone with DDR2 RAM, dont think i got the cash to buy it at best buy.... and i sure as hell dont want to wait for an ordered part....

I had a picture of my skeletal krew setup but this old labtop has no drivers for my phone ):

Thanks for all the advice so far.. I guess the rest of the day is contemplating where to get another stick of ram....


October 26, 2007 10:32:20 PM

It's hard to say.

RAM .1v below spec ought to at least boot. I stick by itself at least should. But do try a stick that runs at 1.8. This RAM undervolting problem has been stopping a lot of people lately.

Keep in mind that PSUs do sometimes die a partial death. They need to put out a pretty specific output to give you a relaible boot. So you might very wll get some fans or other things to spin up but no POST.

October 26, 2007 10:59:03 PM

Okay... I went to the local comp store like 2 minutes away and got a stick of Kingstonx1GB DDR2 4200, which my manual says it supports, exact same response.... 4 Green LED - No post.

Im gonna try another power supply now, I just hope I have one compatable with my MB, but I do have several laying around.

gosh this is getting frustrating!

Edit: Also the spare PSU's I have are no more than 250Watts, I hope thats safe enough to run even on my skeletal crew setup....
October 26, 2007 11:15:44 PM

*sigh* - EXTREMELY frustrated at this point. I just tried a different PSU... still... exact same response. 4 Green LED - No post

I'm at a loss... the video card has to be compatable with the MB, its an SLI video card for an SLI motherboard, and I have already tested it on another machine.

If the motherboard was messed up... why would it show 4 green LED on the D-bracket?

Is my CPU really broken? I mean its pinless.... and i have literally installed hundreds of CPU's (worked in a dell factory).

heres my motherboard supports CPU specs:

Supported CPU
CPU Socket Type LGA 775
CPU Type Core 2 Extreme / Core 2 Duo / Pentium D / Celeron
FSB 1333/1066MHz
Supported CPU Technologies Hyper-Threading Technology

and my CPU compatability:
CPU Socket Type
CPU Socket Type LGA 775
Tech Spec
Core Conroe
Multi-Core Dual-Core
Name Core 2 Duo E6850
Operating Frequency 3.0GHz
FSB 1333MHz

Not sure what the next step is.... any ideas?

October 26, 2007 11:44:11 PM

RMA the MB and get an ASUS, EVGA, or Gigabyte 650i. At their best, MSI is a middle of the road board.

On my previous post, I meant to say, when it does POST, and you get to BIOS, turn off the floppy stuff to get rid of the red LED's.
October 27, 2007 12:04:12 AM

o.O? wouldn't that be like 'okay we'll fix the cancer, but while we're in there we'll just get rid of that extra kidney for you...'
October 27, 2007 2:14:48 AM

Well the sad thing is I mailed in a rebate for this motherboard.

Rebates are basically designed for companies to capitalize on profits, by the inconvenience's of mail and of course to ruin RMA's.

Newegg already rejected me, I surely hope MSI will let me RMA my board, especially considering it isn't damaged, its just a board that for some random reason wont work for me.

rebates = devil
October 27, 2007 2:18:34 AM

take my advice...get the Asus P5N32-SLI Plus that I got...purrin like a kitten :) 
October 27, 2007 11:40:45 AM

Endersun said:
Well the sad thing is I mailed in a rebate for this motherboard.

Rebates are basically designed for companies to capitalize on profits, by the inconvenience's of mail and of course to ruin RMA's.

Newegg already rejected me, I surely hope MSI will let me RMA my board, especially considering it isn't damaged, its just a board that for some random reason wont work for me.

rebates = devil

Unless they changed their policy, Newegg will let you RMA a defective for the same product. Hopefully the replacement will actually work.

One tip though, put a little ink dot or something on the motherboard sticker to make sure they do not send back the same board. Make it small so only you notice it.

The other draw back to mail order, is that you have to pay to ship it back, which cuts into the rebate.
October 27, 2007 9:46:47 PM

Endersun said:
Okay... I went to the local comp store like 2 minutes away and got a stick of Kingstonx1GB DDR2 4200, which my manual says it supports, exact same response.... 4 Green LED - No post.

Im gonna try another power supply now, I just hope I have one compatable with my MB, but I do have several laying around.

gosh this is getting frustrating!

Edit: Also the spare PSU's I have are no more than 250Watts, I hope thats safe enough to run even on my skeletal crew setup....


two fitty? I don't know dude. I actually doubt that would be enough. It MIGHT boot, but then again it probably won't. I'm thinking you need a 300-400 (quality) unit to answere this question. As a permenant unit I'd get a 500+ QUALITY unit with plenty of 12v rail for that 8800.

Since RMAing the board is such a PITA try to find a better PSU if you can. You could always buy one and then retutn it.

What is the 12v rail on that 250? It will be on the lable. You need about 28 amps for that video card and probably a minimum 400 watts.
October 27, 2007 10:02:48 PM

notherdude said:
two fitty? I don't know dude. I actually doubt that would be enough. It MIGHT boot, but then again it probably won't. I'm thinking you need a 300-400 (quality) unit to answere this question. As a permenant unit I'd get a 500+ QUALITY unit with plenty of 12v rail for that 8800.

Since RMAing the board is such a PITA try to find a better PSU if you can. You could always buy one and then retutn it.

What is the 12v rail on that 250? It will be on the lable. You need about 28 amps for that video card and probably a minimum 400 watts.


Agreed. My system runs with a 585w PSU, 28A 12v rail
October 28, 2007 2:33:56 AM

Quote:
two fitty? I don't know dude. I actually doubt that would be enough. It MIGHT boot, but then again it probably won't. I'm thinking you need a 300-400 (quality) unit to answere this question. As a permenant unit I'd get a 500+ QUALITY unit with plenty of 12v rail for that 8800.

Since RMAing the board is such a PITA try to find a better PSU if you can. You could always buy one and then retutn it.

What is the 12v rail on that 250? It will be on the lable. You need about 28 amps for that video card and probably a minimum 400 watts.


Im talking about running it on the skeletal crew aka bare minimum. Just CPU/Video/Ram, surely I dont need that many watts for the bare minimum?
October 28, 2007 2:38:51 AM

The theoretical maximum for the PCI-ex16 is 150w. Call it 20w for RAM, 65w for CPU and throw in 20 watts for bus inefficiencey, fans, and general dissipation. Thats 255w, but just an estimate.
October 28, 2007 4:25:14 AM

Endersun said:
Quote:
two fitty? I don't know dude. I actually doubt that would be enough. It MIGHT boot, but then again it probably won't. I'm thinking you need a 300-400 (quality) unit to answere this question. As a permenant unit I'd get a 500+ QUALITY unit with plenty of 12v rail for that 8800.

Since RMAing the board is such a PITA try to find a better PSU if you can. You could always buy one and then retutn it.

What is the 12v rail on that 250? It will be on the lable. You need about 28 amps for that video card and probably a minimum 400 watts.


Im talking about running it on the skeletal crew aka bare minimum. Just CPU/Video/Ram, surely I dont need that many watts for the bare minimum?


I just don't know. But it sure does not seem obvious to me that it will work, barebones or not. You probably have a bad MOBO but I hate to see you go to all that trouble of replacing it if there is any question about the PSU. Do you have an old video card you can put in there? Like an old PCI card which basically needs very little power?
October 28, 2007 5:14:05 AM

Quote:
I just don't know. But it sure does not seem obvious to me that it will work, barebones or not. You probably have a bad MOBO but I hate to see you go to all that trouble of replacing it if there is any question about the PSU. Do you have an old video card you can put in there? Like an old PCI card which basically needs very little power?


I don't have access to any PCI video cards, I do have a friend with a PCI video card but he lives like 30 min away, not sure if he would let me use his....

but IF it did post, wouldn't I hear a single beep?

I just sent in an RMA to the manufacturer (MSI). I just hope I dont get another board and have the same problem, but at least it would eliminate the board being the problem.

I mean the PSU I got has very good ratings on newegg, meaning alot of people have used it without problems. Also it was new and its 700W of power.

But I have an old dell that I used underwattage for a long while, which wasnt smart, but it would still work.

but about my question, do all motherboards give a single beep when they post?
October 28, 2007 5:34:33 AM

When they post properly, yes, one beep. At least all mobo's I've ever owned. Also, did you try switching out the RAM, the CPU? You did wear a static strap when you installed them, didn't you? Static electricity is the nuke of the microchip, so let's hope you did... :non:  And in the case of CPU or RAM failure you may not see any errors in your fancy LED setup, because the mobo's working just fine. But you won't get a post either.

There's a saying in the factory industry: "If it doesn't work right, always blame the part you first started with last." In this case, that would be your mobo. Switch out all the rest of the parts first before blaming it. In the case of a 250w PSU, I'd consider that suspect, as well.
October 28, 2007 7:17:05 AM

well keep in mind the original PSU ive been doing all the testing with is a 700w PSU.... the only reason i used a 250w was just to test a different PSU, and thats all i had laying around, and i dont exactly have a 1333/1000Mzh CPU FSB CPU laying around.

but i did try other ram sticks, I really hope its not the CPU, but for the motherboard to process the LED lights, i thought it required a CPU.

the way i see it, i mean the motherboard is the body, and the CPU is the brain, the motherboard cant do anything w/o the CPU right?

but ya ive never heard a beep so, no post ):
October 28, 2007 11:45:15 AM

Endersun said:
well keep in mind the original PSU ive been doing all the testing with is a 700w PSU.... the only reason i used a 250w was just to test a different PSU, and thats all i had laying around, and i dont exactly have a 1333/1000Mzh CPU FSB CPU laying around.

but i did try other ram sticks, I really hope its not the CPU, but for the motherboard to process the LED lights, i thought it required a CPU.

the way i see it, i mean the motherboard is the body, and the CPU is the brain, the motherboard cant do anything w/o the CPU right?

but ya ive never heard a beep so, no post ):


And the PSU is the heart, puming out that life giving voltage to every corner of the system. LOL

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Sounds like you have done the best you can to narrow it down to the motherboard. I suspect that PSU is not for sale in the US. Are you in the UK? I see it sells for 118 (incl VAT) how many US dollars would that equal? I don't know how much the VAT is. Looks like it may be a quality unit though, based on price and specs.

I usually like to rule out the PSU before I RMA any motherboard, on general principle, because it's just too hard to figure out which one is at fault. In this case I don't think the 250 w (of unknown quality and 12 v rail, not to mention the anemic wattage) accomplished that goal. But as you say that was all you had and perhaps it should have been enough to at least make the system spin up for a short time.

Good luck with the new MOBO. I have a good feeling that was it. But if not please do get a proper PSU to switch in. Mark the old mobo just to be sure they don't send you back the same one. Of course if they do send back the old that may be because they either fixed it or else determind it was OK


October 28, 2007 2:04:37 PM

bcboy said:
You did wear a static strap when you installed them, didn't you? Static electricity is the nuke of the microchip, so let's hope you did... :non:  And in the case of CPU or RAM failure you may not see any errors in your fancy LED setup, because the mobo's working just fine. But you won't get a post either.


Tell me you used a static strap when you were pokin' around in there. If you didn't, you wouldn't even know whether or not you fried a chip or two.
October 29, 2007 1:06:54 AM

Well I had a couple of methods to avoid the static, the motherboard was laying on a static wrap the whole time i was trouble shooting it, on top of a wood table, on top of a ceramic ground.

I also washed my hands fequently, and I touch the metal side of the PSU before I even operate...

and even when I do operate I do my best to avoid touching the MB unless I really have to.

so yes I was being carefull, I have alot of money invested into this system and only 30 days of refund period, so I really do want things to go smoothly.

But the comments have been very helpfull for the trouble shooting, the first thing im gonna do if I get the same results on another board is double test the PSU with a new PSU ill buy down the road from the store.

Ill just have to hope for the best. Also the product has a serial number, so i wouldn't need to necessarily mark it would i? cause the # is specific to my MB?
October 29, 2007 1:51:08 AM

I would think the S/N would do.
October 29, 2007 12:08:53 PM

Have you tried moving the stick of RAM to a different RAM slot on the motherboard? Sometimes they won't post if they're in the wrong spot. (Ex. Ram slots 1, 2 ,3, & 4. The 1st and 2nd could be Dual-Channel only or something)
October 29, 2007 3:07:06 PM

Endersun said:
Well I had a couple of methods to avoid the static, the motherboard was laying on a static wrap the whole time i was trouble shooting it, on top of a wood table, on top of a ceramic ground.

I also washed my hands fequently, and I touch the metal side of the PSU before I even operate...

Here's a silly question: Was your PSU plugged in? I know it sounds dumb, but the 'touch-the-PSU' trick only works if the ground-wire (third prong) is connected to the wall socket. Obviously, it's even more dangerous to be poking around with a live PSU, but that's what the little switch in the back is for....


Endersun said:

and even when I do operate I do my best to avoid touching the MB unless I really have to.


The mobo is probably the least likely to be fried by ESD. Basically it has to do with touching chip (ram chip, cpu chip, nb or sb chip) surfaces or contacts directly. Most mobo chipsets are covered by heatsinks now, and the CPU is in its own package, so touching the chip surfaces is a little hard. The contact points on the new C2D are ridiculously easy to contact though, so be careful. And that leaves the RAM, the most likely part to get hit by ESD. With a lot of brands, there's nothing stopping you from touching each seperate chip, or the contact points. Handle from the edges when possible.

Oh, and washing your hands actually has a potentially negative effect. When I'm doing a repair, I park my butt, ground out (the 'touch-the-psu' trick) and DON'T MOVE until I'm finished. Even if I suddenly get a bad need for Immodium, still won't move. New boxers cost $5. New C2D's cost $200 or so. You do the math :) 



rgeist554 said:
Have you tried moving the stick of RAM to a different RAM slot on the motherboard? Sometimes they won't post if they're in the wrong spot. (Ex. Ram slots 1, 2 ,3, & 4. The 1st and 2nd could be Dual-Channel only or something)


He might have something here...Try it out...

:sol: 
October 29, 2007 3:23:52 PM

Try this, just had a problem last night with a new Biostar board, you just push the ram down until it snaps in place right? Well this was different. I mean it had the snaps, but I finished the build, tried to boot, and it was giving me beeps every 1-2 seconds meaning memory problem according to the manual. So I tried moving ram, etc etc. Didn't work. Finally, after I put the ram in at the original spots, still no go. Finally, noticed it seemed loose, so I pushed down on the ram and in pushed a little in the slot. Now it works great. Evidently even though it was supposed to have locked into place, it didn't seat all the way in the slots. Once I pushed down along the entire stick, it was fine and works as it should. Might be worth looking at.....
October 29, 2007 3:39:58 PM

Actually, now that you mention it, I had to give an extra push on my RAM chips after they clicked in, too...Good thinking Shawn.
October 29, 2007 5:08:13 PM

shawn26il said:
Try this, just had a problem last night with a new Biostar board, you just push the ram down until it snaps in place right? Well this was different. I mean it had the snaps, but I finished the build, tried to boot, and it was giving me beeps every 1-2 seconds meaning memory problem according to the manual. So I tried moving ram, etc etc. Didn't work. Finally, after I put the ram in at the original spots, still no go. Finally, noticed it seemed loose, so I pushed down on the ram and in pushed a little in the slot. Now it works great. Evidently even though it was supposed to have locked into place, it didn't seat all the way in the slots. Once I pushed down along the entire stick, it was fine and works as it should. Might be worth looking at.....


Yep, a good connection is not always a given, you gotta push, reseat, whatever, before you give up. And then when the stuff gets old and dusty this is really a potential problem.

Often simply taking old components and reseating them is MAGIC. I have rescued several pieces of good hardware this way.
October 29, 2007 11:08:57 PM

Output +3.3V@36A,+5V@30A,+12V1@15A,+12V2@15A,+12V3@15A, +12V4@15A,-12V@0.8A,+5VSB@2A

Connectors 1 x Main connector (20+4Pin)
1 x 12V(4+4Pin)
6 x peripheral
6 x SATA
2 x Floppy
2 x PCI-E

it says the 12V should be 18A or greater, mine is only 15A, could this be the problem?

(30 min later)

well actually i just bought a 680W from the local comp store with a 22A 12V rail. Oddly enough its a 4pin, while my 15A on the origonal 700W was a 4+4pin.

well same results.... 4 green LED - No post

getting pretty sick of this board, I think im ready to send it in..

and btw yes i did try moving the ram to other slots, someone alot earlier on in this thread already mentioned that.

very frustrated right now....
October 29, 2007 11:38:51 PM

Sorry. I KNOW how frustrating this process is. Been there several times.

PSUs are a little complex with this 12v amp output. Your Epsilon appears to have multiple 12 v rails. I do believe this will yield an adequate 12v rail for your card as there is some degree of aggregation of the rails. The quality of the unit and it's ability to put out what it is rated to put out is a different question.

Sounds like it's time to ge the new mobo. You put a lot of effort into this process. I'm sure it will be up and running soon enough. Keep us informed.
October 30, 2007 12:37:18 AM

Quote:
but about my question, do all motherboards give a single beep when they post?


No they dont
I have an asus p532n-e (680i)
And it does not beep on post.
I think it is a feature in the bios to turn it on or off...

It seems to me that you need to have a "known good"; compatible CPU and Power Supply to fully analyze this problem

Its unfortunate that most ppl don't have extra C2d's lying around :( 

frednitney


October 30, 2007 2:19:41 AM

Well I only heard I needed a 18a or higher for the ATX 8pin slot for CPU power, from a tech support guy at MSI.. now that I think of it my motherboard manual doesn't say anywhere what is required voltage for either of the MB connectors.

I think i was a little desperate for ideas before I gave up on it. As of now my the motherboard is in the box waiting to be shipped to MSI. So no more troubleshooting for a week or so.

Whats worrying me is my 30 days is up at newegg in 17 days and counting from now.

Theres this local computer store called Computer Renaisance like 2 minutes from me, its very small.

I buy parts from them, and just test them on my machine then return them(I have 7 days).

I wonder what they think of me buying expensive stuff like ram and PSUs and return it, but its there policy so meh, they charge a ton of cash for there own tech team, so I say screw that.

besides Im a do-it-myself kinda guy when it comes to computers, like im sure most of you are.

I sure hope this RMA doesn't take too long....
October 30, 2007 3:23:56 AM

How many 4pins does your PSU have? Do you have one four pin plugged into the cpu 4 pin? You mentioned the 24 pin motherboard and 2, 4 pins for your grafics but you need a 4 pin for the CPU as well. If not you will never POST.
October 30, 2007 5:37:57 AM

Quote:
How many 4pins does your PSU have? Do you have one four pin plugged into the cpu 4 pin? You mentioned the 24 pin motherboard and 2, 4 pins for your grafics but you need a 4 pin for the CPU as well. If not you will never POST.


I have a 20+4 pin for the 24 slot, and a 4+4pin for the 8 pin slot.

and if I didn't plug in the 8 pin for the CPU, not only would it not post but that could probably fry the board...

October 30, 2007 11:57:00 AM

frednitney said:
Quote:
but about my question, do all motherboards give a single beep when they post?


No they dont
I have an asus p532n-e (680i)
And it does not beep on post.
I think it is a feature in the bios to turn it on or off...


You mean the P5N32e? Or rather the P5N32e-SLI? Um, that's the board I'm using, and it sure as hell does beep every time it starts...

Endersun said:

besides Im a do-it-myself kinda guy when it comes to computers, like im sure most of you are.


Heh, nope, I'm a do-it-for-others kinda guy :D  one of the ones that doesn't charge an arm and aleg and your firstborn...

Endersun said:
Quote:
How many 4pins does your PSU have? Do you have one four pin plugged into the cpu 4 pin? You mentioned the 24 pin motherboard and 2, 4 pins for your grafics but you need a 4 pin for the CPU as well. If not you will never POST.


I have a 20+4 pin for the 24 slot, and a 4+4pin for the 8 pin slot.

and if I didn't plug in the 8 pin for the CPU, not only would it not post but that could probably fry the board...


Uh, not necessarily. My board has 20+4 and an 8-pin for CPU, but four of the 8-pin was covered by a plastic cap, so I plugged in only 4 pins there. No problems... Plus, I doubt a lack of power would 'fry' your board...It's usually an excess of power you want to avoid...
October 30, 2007 6:40:08 PM

Well, mine also came with an 8 pin, and 4 covered with plastic, I would have just plugged in a 4 pin and it probably would have been ok, but I thought may as well plug in all 8 since I have them.

But my friend fried his board by not plugging anything into the ATX, also his power supply.

luckily he was able to send them both back for replacements.
October 30, 2007 6:50:42 PM

Yeah, you're not going to fry your board from lack of power. It just won't work unless it gets it's minimum required voltage. If your force something in the wrong slow, of course you will damage it.

Quote:
But my friend fried his board by not plugging anything into the ATX, also his power supply.
I don't see how this is possible unless you mean that your friend didn't plug his heatsink fan into the CPU fan pins. The other possibility is that your friend didn't use stand-offs and shorted his board. Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but it from what it looks like you're saying, a board could be damaged by having nothing plugged into it? So it could get damaged sitting in it's static bag in the factory?

Are you sure you're talking about the ATX or do you mean AUX? ATX = 24 Pin | AUX = 4 / 8 Pin
October 30, 2007 7:14:32 PM

plugged in aux didnt plug in atx i think...
still...that would be undervoltage. how do you fry a mobo with UNDERvoltage?
October 30, 2007 7:24:24 PM

Quote:
plugged in aux didnt plug in atx i think...
still...that would be undervoltage. how do you fry a mobo with UNDERvoltage?
I'm still stumped. I think they're blaming it on a bad install or incompatibility... because frying a motherboard with undervoltage...??
October 30, 2007 7:29:44 PM

no was talkin bout his friend...perhaps Enderson fubar'd his mobo by putting an additional 4 into the 8-pin aux. my mobo came with a cap that covered 4 of the pins. I suspect if I removed that cap and put 4 more power lines in there, I could do some damage. There's a cap on it for a reason. Not that it matters, in my case, because my PSU simply doesn't have those other 4 pins...
October 30, 2007 8:07:10 PM

Well, let me be more thorough here. About my friend frying his board, his PSU didnt have a compatable connector for the slot to the CPU. He simply didnt have it plugged in at all, but he did have his 24pin plugged in, and when he powered on he fried his board/power supply. Now I dont know if that was exactly what caused him to do it, because I only know him over the internet, and I talk with him frequently. Im surprised to see no one thinks a board can be fried from not having the CPU power plugged in, but meh could have been something else that wasnt so obvious?

But back to my board I'm working.... I mean should I not plug in both 4 pin ATX plugs?

I mean it came with a plastic cap on half of the 8 pin connector, but I only thought this was a safeguard to make sure the 4 pin goes in the correct slot if thats what your working with.

I have two 4 pins labeled "CPU1" and CPU2" I just figured since I have them both, why not fill the whole 8pin slot up?

well nevertheless.... I got a no post 4 Green LED on powerup, and when I bought a powersupply with a 4pin only connector and plugged in the 4pin slot, it still didnt work, but I already mentioned that.

The point i'm trying to get across is I can plug in 4pin + 4pin connectors into an 8pin slot, and the comp doesn't post, but has power. Its not damaging anything, so why not plug in and fill all 8 pins? To me it either seems AS GOOD as plugging in just a 4 pin, or better if it isn't shorting out your board.. Doesn't it just mean the CPU has more power potential?
October 30, 2007 8:51:41 PM

The 2x4 connection is required/recommended for certain procs (ie Pentium D Extreme ED0. It is probably best to leave the cover in and use a 1 x 4 connection; however, You should not have a problem pluging the 2 x 4 connector in.

I had a 1 x 4 connected, changed PSU's and currently have the 2 x4 connected - to lazy to reconnect 1 x 4 and put cap back on.
October 30, 2007 9:14:40 PM

Reference "Undervoltage" or low voltage. In general, Yes some electronic systems can be damaged with low voltage. Most think in terms of I= E/R (Current = Voltage / Resistance) therfore if voltage is reduced then the resulting current would be lower. This is true for resitive loads, BUT May not be true for reactive loads.

NOTE: This applies to electronics in general, AND MAY NOT be applicable to PSU/Computer systems.

Ex (1) In many cases if you reduce the input voltage to a power supply the current may increase - Hopefully you would only blow a fuse.
Note: have had to verify current drain while vering supply voltage.

(2) If you reduce a voltage below a given piont (ie +12 Vgoes to +7 V) and IF this voltage is used to control a given circuit (Called Bias), The effected circuit may be destroyed.
October 31, 2007 12:54:58 AM

"How many 4pins does your PSU have? Do you have one four pin plugged into the cpu 4 pin? You mentioned the 24 pin motherboard and 2, 4 pins for your grafics but you need a 4 pin for the CPU as well. If not you will never POST"

this absolutely crucial. the 4 pin CPU in addition to the 20+4 slot for the mother board, it's easy to confuse the 12v sli rails sometimes for the 4 pin CPU rails. the line of the PSU should be labeled properly, but sometimes they are not and you are plugging in the wrong rail into the wrong spot. most motherboards don't post when they are plugged in like this, thankfully, if it did then it would fry your board/cpu.
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