reversed polarity on harddrive!

I have this stupid light controller in my computer which the pins become lose and so i had my harddrive plugged into my light controller which was plugged into my power supply. How ever i was cleaning my computer up and the pins came out of the molex connector. Well i switched the yellow with the red :pt1cable: . Tried to spin up the harddrive. No spin! but while i had the polarity reversed my lights went half on. Guys what should i do? cannot find a replacement for the circuit board as its an old 60gb spinpoint.

thanks
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  1. You don't say whether you tried the easy / obvious solution. Did you fix the mixed-up leads and then re-connect properly to try? Sometimes you're lucky and it works anyway because even the wrong connections did no permanent damage. Sometimes you're not so lucky.
  2. Of Little use; But, you did not apply a revearse polarity. What you did was apply a +12V to where the +5 V is normally applied resulting in a very high overvoltage. Revearse polarity is easily protected by input diodes which would limit Current and prevent damage. However overvoltage is harder to protect against, Normally a Zener Diode in parallel that would Zener at a specified level and blow a replaceable fuse. As state - Of little use as end result is the SAME.

    Since you tried it and it didn't work my instinct tells me you have Blown some of the 5 Volt circuit components. You might be able to find a new, or used HDD and swap circuit boards - It depends on if you have recently backed up your Data, If you have just bite the bullet and buy a new HDD and reload.
  3. damn. yea i didnt think i reversed the polarity either. But i didnt think it was worse haha. Yes i really need to get stuff off this drive as i have all my music on it! :cry: I cannot how ever replace any old harddrive circuit board with it tho right? thats the impression i was under over some googling. So i dont want to spend 500 dollars and have it professionally recovered. Is there a trick of the trade?

    ps. I did try and reconnect it correctly multiple times.
  4. did not see any smoke either if that helps and yes i did need this experience to happen so i had a reason to go sata and buy a 500gb! woo
  5. Afraid your music is in that great digital beyond as the repair is most likely above our pay grades Sorry as I don't think there is a simple repair. If you are handy with a mutimeter and a soldering iron you could TRY to find the bad part by tracing the line from the +5 V pin.

    Just thought of a simple protection method.
    They could place a diode acrose the +5 and +12 V pins and a fusible link in the +5 or +12 V lines. The fusible link could be as simple as a very narrow trace. I mention this as they should anticipate a "Gorillia" pluging the molex in backwards. Use a magnifing clace and examine the traces, or ohms check them _ You Have NOTHING to loose. You could play with this after installing Your new HDD
  6. haha i wish my harddrive had you "simple" protection method. Ok so i unscrewed the pcb an i flipped it over to look at the circuits. help me out here whatdo i do next. i wish i wasnt a noob with harddrive pcb lol
  7. I assume you have a fair to good understanding of electronics and Have a multimeter. Bear in mind finding the problem is on the low probability side and repair might even be lower. Hope you have the so called "luck of the Irish"

    1st - I do not have a "bad" hard drive (Should have kept one). I have a Maxtor that I am looking at without removing the PCB.
    Note: allot of the components are surface mount components and it is impossible to to tell the differnce between a cap and a resistor much less determine a resistive value.

    I plugged in a Molex pigtail (Has two females, one male). This is so I can insert one lead of the multimeter and use the other lead to check various points.

    (1) Measure the +12 (Yellow) and the +5 (red) to ground (black) Then Measure the +12 to the +5V. . You should have a very high resitance reading. Mine: +5 to Ground 12 kohms, +12 V was 12 Megohms. Note on +12V the reading started at 5 Megs and slowly climbed to > 35 megohms. (Charging a cap). Next verify by reversing your multimeter leads. You may get an initial reading that is negative ohms. BUT it should drop to zero then climb to a high positive value. (this is due to a charge on a cap that is discharging and then charging – Normal.
    (2) Now you can start tracing.- My drive has what appears to be a surface mount resistor off of each Molex pin. I then measured each Molex pin to both sides of the component. HOWEVER they have a Very low resistance (less than 0.1 ohms. So could be acting as a fuse??). IF one of these checks open, THEN measure the side opposite the Molex connector two ground. If you have a low resistans, you have a component that may have shorted out causing current to blow the resitor/fusistor. See second installment.

    This is a start - Have Fun.

    If you get an open: (1) your meter may show an open above 20 Mohms - Mine goes to 40 Megs or (2) the resitor/fusesistor may be open:
    Also; if the resistor/fusesistor is open. It indicates excess current and is probably a result of anoter component. I have a feeling that they are there to protect the PSU or prevent excess current causing further damage and NOT the HDD.
  8. 2nd installment.
    Depending on how far you want to take this, and $$$.

    You can use two little power packs, one 5V and one 12V. Get two female connectors from radio shack (maybe two bucks apiece) wire them to a spare molex connector. Plug this in and you can now also make voltage checks.

    This would also be advisable if say you find one of the input resistors/fusesistors open. You could solder a single strand of wire across the open (use a Low wattage soldering pencil with a FINE tip) and test with this "Jury rig" for excess current.
  9. http://cgi.ebay.com/Samsung-HM060HC-60GB-SpinPoint-2-5-IDE-5400RPM-8MB_W0QQitemZ380032281456QQihZ025QQcategoryZ116342QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

    never say you can't find something simply because it's old.

    of course, you'll pay 50 bucks, just depends on how much it's worth to you
  10. Thanks a lot man i defiantly will try and repair this board. And to valis. Unfortunately that's the 2.5 inch version i have the 3.5 :cry:

    Oh and i am going to die before i stop trying to get this dang hard drive to work again haha.

    What do you think my last resort is before shelling out 500 bucks for professionals?
  11. yesssssssssssssssssssssssssss i founddddddddddddddddd it!!!!!!!!!!!!! Because i dont have a multimeter and i cannot find anyone i know that has it iam gonna buy that drive on ebay. crossing my fingers for the same firmware.
  12. OP - That is your best option, wishing you "the best of british" Luck
  13. Good luck on the firmware.
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