AMD 4000+ Brisbane Overclock
Just had an AMD 4000+ Brisbane impress me.
For $60 bucks (on Newegg) you can't beat that deal.
For $60 bucks (on Newegg) you can't beat that deal.
Very nice... I cant believe your HT NB is letting you run it that high.
Very nice! I couldnt get my 4600+ manchester past 2.8 stably. Of course that was a 90nm chip on an old asus a8n.
Congratulations though and well done.
Oh yeah... is it stable prime95? Because if it is... that's something to be proud of!
level101 said:Stock CPU Fan
You shouldnt overclock with stock fan.
To answer your question though you will have to read up on what voltages people are using for that cpu on different set-ups.
You would basically raise your fsb until it wont boot... then lower HT multi then add voltage.
REAd the sticky!
this is to the guy that got 3.2 out of his amd 4000+ brisbane im currently runing 3016 but if i go higher it just crashes in windows
my ht multi is at 3x my vcore is 1.520v temps are good ide about 30 degrees and full load about 60 degrees mainbord is a asus M3N-
HT deluxe/HDMI memory is corsair 800 dual channel frequency 377 i had to drop it back to cope cooling is a zalman cnps7500-alcu led
i can edit all the bios i think just looking to ethier get a bit more out of it or stabilise it cos its not really stable
thanxs in advance
my cpuz link http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=385740
Your pretty lucky to get anything over 3.0ghz with the 4000+... It may just be a motherboard HT limiting factor. However I would work on getting your memory stable first and see if that's not your culprit in the overclock. Use prime95 and blend test to test your memory. If it fails then just test CPU and see if it can pass for an hour or two. If it does you might be running into a wall with your memory.
You should at least be able to get that sucker to a minimum 3.0ghz overclock no prob. Like mentioned just lower HT to 4x. Up the FSB and set memory ratio to equate to something around 800mhz (400mhz really) and you should be good to go. Start small and bump up till you cant boot without a voltage increase than keep on going!
OK no matter what I do, it will not go over 215MHz FSB.
At 215 MHz :
HT x 4 == 856MHz
RAM:FSB == 1:1 == 215 MHz (this is PC2-6400 RAM so has way to go still)
CPU multiplier x 8 (from 10.5) == 1712 MHz
As you can see I have taken all the multipliers down but something breaks when the FSB exceeds 215 MHz. May well be the PCI/PCI-e but I have no way to monitor that and find what the BIOS is doing.
Unless there is a Windows tool to show me the PCI/PCI-e frequencies? Any ideas?
Start with everything at stock... EVERYTHING.
Then slowly start raising the FSB. Once you cant get it to boot (not talking about stressing just booting) than lower the HT multi. Make sure memory is well below the 400mhz top too.
Only lower multi to 4x for now.
Does it boot now? If not start raising CPU vcore or CPU voltage (whatever your bios calls it) Raise it just until PC boots and then start raising the FSB again. Repeat this process until raising the CPU voltage doesnt cut it anymore. Once you've hit that you'll need to raise voltages on FSB, NB, SB, memory and all sorts of other things.
PCI-e frequencies are only limiting factors at extreme high FSB. Not for 215mhz by any means.
Always keep multi on high as at will go as far as CPU multi. So 10.5 should be yours.
The motherboard's BIOS (MSI, nvidia 560 chipset) has a setting related to PCI-e : it asks the PCI-e frequency, there is no "auto" - you need to enter a number between 100 and 150, therefore I have left this alone to 100 - the BIOS somehow must be able to set it independendly of anything else that's going on.
With everything at stock, raising the FSB stops working at 216MHz. Lowering *everything* I can (RAM, HT, CPU multiplier) allows me to reach 230MHz on the FSB before it will not boot any more. At that stage do I need to increase power to the CPU even though it is working at a low multiplier?
I think you should read a very "basic" guide to overclocking AMD processors. Lowering the multiplier will result in a lower clock speed overall.
Just keep it basic. PCI-e frequencies will not effect your overclock if you are only trying to achieve a modest 3.0ghz. Right now I suggest you only tamper with FSB, HT multi, memory multi and CPU vcore.
You must raise the FSB and then the vcore when you run into stability issues. Quit messing with the CPU multiplier! that will do nothing for you... Keep it at stock. Oh yeah and turn off cool n quiet for now.
Hope you are not to confused. Like I said at this point you really need to read a basic step by step guide to overclocking AMD procs as I can tell that there is some lack of understanding how the frequencies of particular components play the part.
Here are some basic... I mean BASIC overclocking guides for AMD in particular:
I tried again last evening but had to stop when it got too late.
The clincher was to increase vcore to 1.35 V (max). That allowed me to increase the FSB to 285MHz. However two things then happened.
(1) At 1.35V the CPU gets too hot (stock cooler) - Windows reports 75C but BIOS reports 85C or more. In any case this causes the CPU fan to switch to max, which means it is not whisper quiet anymore - and the fan is realy struggling, I would need a more expensive cooler.
Which makes me think that it is not really worth buying the 2.1GHz with the intention of overclocking it and investing in special coolers plus time to get it right. Better to buy the next model up which will work out of the box guaranteed. The 2.1GHz sells for 38 pounds and the 3.0GHz sells for 71 pounds.
(2) Suddenly and annoyingly I noticed a new behaviour has appeared in Windows and I do not know what is causing it. The new behaviour is this. No matter what the FSB and other settings are, with all BIOS settings to "Default" or overclocked, as soon as you put load on the CPU in Windows, something automatically changes the CPU multiplier down to 5 (from 10.5) and the RAM speed too. I have no idea what's going on there, but it means I cannot even put the machine to its original state. Any ideas welcome.
At an idle state you CPU multiplier will be lower like 5 and at 10.5 during full load. This is AMDs cool n quiet feature that they have conveniently for you to save on your energy bill.
Dont worry about anything. As long as your CPU jumps back up to 10.5 during full load you are good!
Also you can always disable it... I dont see why you would because it only does it at idle. Makes no difference performance wise.
It is the other way around. The CPU gets to 66C and then it drops the multiplier to 5x. It is also happening on my other AMD computer, that one with Athlon 6000+. I made an elaborate post here:
Ok... Run prime95 test (doesn't matter which test put use blend for this purpose). Whilst prime is running do you still run into this same problem at 66 or above??
It just really still sounds like the cool n quite kicking in. Maybe disable that feature in the bios and see if it still does it. Cool n quiet is designed to whenever windows issues an idle command to drop down to a lower multiplier and also drop voltages in some cases. So that's what this might be considering it's happening on both computers.
Bottom line if it's happening during prime stress test than it's definitely a problem. Unless for some weird reason you have a feature that whenever the temps reach a certain degree it reduces multiplier conciquently reduceing the frequency and in turn reducing the heat.
I don't know. All this is to me is speculation and my tech assuming side. I have done no research into the matter so cant give you any very "technical" advice. All I can say so far is to do what I've said and then we'll work from there. Hopefully I'm not the only techru that will respond to this thread as there are a lot of people on here that know more than I do. The question is where are they?
It does it whenever the temperature reaches 66C. I have tried with the hairdryer too. Cool&Quiet is disabled.
We are talking two computers, both with same motherboard (MSI K9N-Neo-V3) and two different CPUs (X2 4000+ and X2 6000+). Settings to default, no messing about in the BIOS.
So my guesses are:
(1) rogue driver in Windows - I have lately installed (and de-installed) ATITool, NVidia tune, speedfan, cpu-z, gpu, riva tuner, ati catalyst - any of these can be responsible. I have de-installed whatever I could.
(2) In-built CPU function to protect itself when it reaches 66C
(3) Nvidia chipset 560 function
(4) Motherboard/BIOS function (I have left a question with MSI)