Help - it's just gone bang!!!

[Smiler]

Hi - I'm posting this from my old pc as my current one has just died.

No apparent problems until there was suddenly a bang and it seems to be completely dead.

I've tried changing the external power lead (so I know the power is working up until it gets to the PC) with no result, so presumably the PSU is the likely culprit?

It's an Antec Truepower 2.0 550w EPS12V that came mounted in an Antec Titan case I bought in December 2006. The label on the PSU says no user serviceable parts. Any tips as to what I can check or change would be gratefully received.

The ironic thing is that in my many PCs over the years this is the first branded "quality" PSU I've owned and it is also the only one that's blown up on me.

The PSU should still be under warranty, but I’ve just had a nasty thought. As it was bought fitted in a case, can they insist that I return the whole unit rather than just the PSU? That will mean an unnecessary complete rebuild

Help!

 

[teh_boxzor]

yeah sounds like the psu mine did that when i plugged in a 9800pro that needed external power (should've checked power req. first.). it let out a giant ball of sparks and fire righ out of my case, luckily nothing was damaged, and they probably will make you return the whole case because the psu came with it.

 

[itotallybelieveyou]

anything get burned/damageD?

 

[Smiler]

First thing I did (after turning off the mains power) was to open the case and I can't see any sign of damage.

 

[GuyAmI]

Quick and easy way to check would be to grab a spare PSU (if possible) and hook it up to your system to see if it'll power up.

 

[Smiler]

Hello GuyAmI.

Unfortunately I don't have another PSU available with the right connections for my Gigabyte GA-965P-S3 motherboard. I'm wondering whether I should head out and buy a cheap PSU tomorrow. That would settle it, but then I would be left with an extra PSU if mine gets fixed/replaced under warranty.

Well, no Call Of Duty for me tonight...

 

[altazi]

Greetings, Smiler.

I hope you don't have cause to change your handle to "cryer". It sounds like the PSU blew up. Indeed, there are no "user-serviceable" parts inside, and lethal voltages can be present, but if you are curious AND careful, you should be able to open the PSU case and take a quick look-around to see if anything is obviously amiss. If you want to try this, make SURE that the PSU is unplugged, and wait for several hours since the capacitors inside can hold a charge for a long time. If you do find obvious damage (exploded capacitors, blackened/burned areas, etc.), it is likely that it cannot be repaired (unless you are an experienced electronic technician or engineer) - and even then, it is still a good idea to get a new, higher-quality PSU.

If you are lucky, the rest of your components may be undamaged. There is a slight chance that a dying PSU can take other components with it, though. 99% of electronic damage will not be visible to the eye.

My advice: get a new PSU. Stick with tier-one suppliers, and skip the "cheap deals". Choose one that provides a little more power than you will need; it's always nice to have a little headroom to add another drive, or second graphics card. Think of the PSU as the foundation of your system. You don't want to put excellent components on top of a crappy foundation. The PSU affects everything in the computer - CPU, graphics card, mobo, drives, etc. These components all need stable, regulated voltages in order to operate properly. Feed them crap power and watch them perform unstably, and maybe even die.

Even if the new PSU shows that your mobo, etc., are fried, at least you have a good foundation for a new build.


Good luck!

Altazi

 

[altazi]

Almost forgot! Be sure and use a good UPS in front of your PC, or at least a good surge supressor. Even high-quality PSUs can be knocked-out by a nasty spike on the powerline.

Most UPS units provide surge supression capability. Look for low peak-voltage clamping levels (UL1339 here in the US, typically 330V for a 120VAC power line) and a high energy withstand rating (joules). Response time is also important, get one that clamps in under 1ns.

All of my desktops are connected to high-quality UPS units.

Regards,

Altazi

 

[RetiredChief]

Normally (some exceptions) "Loud Bang" is a result of an exploding electrolic capacitor. This is normally caused by (1) defective Cap or (2) overvoltage. In the PSU overvoltage could be a result of a regulator failure. In both cases the "bang" is caused by excessive current thru the cap ( Leakage resistance ). The Heat generated causes a pressure build-up until the cap ruptures. Less likely, a very high current thru a resistor can cause a Bang, Not as loud and my be accompanied with a brief flame.

Once I messed up (Being polite) I installed a tantilium cap backwards (Electrolices are polarized ), While troubleshooting why it didn't work - it blew. Sounded like a firecraker going off.

You might be able to "sweet" talk the vendor into just swapping out the PSU.

 

[altazi]

For me, reversed or over-volted tantalum caps = blackened PCB & flames. Big can aluminum electrolytics = big mess, oily goo covering everything.

Regards,

Altazi

 

[bobbknight]

Check this and good luck


http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/243648-28-power-supply

 

[Smiler]

The power to my PC does come though a surge suppresor.

On reflection I think I had best skip poking about with the PSU in case that voids the warranty.

Cheers.

 

[altazi]

No question about messing with the PSU if it's still under warranty. At least you have a second computer to "tide you over" until you get your new PSU.

Let us know how they treated you regarding your warranty replacement.

Good luck!

Altazi

 

[tlmck]

Antec will replace the PSU without the case. You can go to their web site and do the RMA thing.

 

[cpburns]

Just my two cents, but just stick your nose next to the PSU's venting, see if anything smells amiss. Burned PCB and electronics smell NASTY. It'll be a very distinctive smell, I would think, if something blew or burned.

I've set a motherboard on fire before, fried a power supply, burned out RAM. It all smelled horrible.

 

[boner]

holy crap i hate that!!!!! i hate it when that thing explodes !!!!!

 

[Smiler]

Hi cpburns.

I did have a sniff after the big bang. There was a slight smell of burning, but it wasn't particularly strong and seems to have gone now. I've got my fingers crossed that any damage is confined to the PSU itself.

 

[Smiler]

I'm certianly riding the highs and lows on this one!

First thing Monday I called the supplier that I bought the PSU from and they said they would send a replacement which arrived this morning. At this point things look great - until I open the box.

It's a cheap PSU - only half the weight and half the connections (No PCI-E connection for the graphics card) of the one that's blown :-(

Called the shop again well over an hour ago and now waiting for them to get back to me. My excuse for not going to work yet is that I have some work stuff I need today on my (still dead) PC!

 

[Zorg]

Those Antec Smartpower PSUs had a problem a while ago. I would stay away from them, whether they fixed the defect or not. Definitely go buy a PSU and cut your losses. If you use the junk they send you to keep you quiet, then you will be setting yourself up for the big bang again. Plug the one they send you in just long enough to make sure nothing else is damaged then get a new quality PSU. Or else..... BANG!

 

[Smiler]

After a couple of hours I got fed up with waiting and called them again. They accept that teh replacement they sent me wasn't up to spec and it now looks as though they are going to source me a "ThermalTake TR2 RX Cable Management 14CM Fan 550Watt" as a replacement.

Please someone tell me these don't have a reputation for exploding...

 

[tlmck]

It is roughly equivalent in specs to the original Antec. Maybe slightly lesser quality. Never heard of an exploding model. Maybe it is called the Thermaltake TNT RX.

 

[Onus]

Thermaltake TR2 is on Tier-4 of the list at http://www.tomswiki.com/page/Tiered+PSU+Listings?t=anon

This episode will get filed in the back of my mind somewhere with the other things I've half-forgotten as to why I don't like Antec PSUs.

If you can, get something from Tier-3 or better, but I'd choose Thermaltake over another Antec.

 

[Zorg]

Thermaltake TR2 is on Tier-4 of the list at http://www.tomswiki.com/page/Tiered+PSU+Listings?t=anon

You took the words out of my mouth. Official XS Tiered PSU Manufacturer Brand Listing Phase III
Tier 4 is one step above complete junk. As I said earlier, put it in the closet and get at least a tier 3, preferably a tier 2, PSU to use. Keep that junk as backup.

 

[Mr_Badger]

No, it's me Smiler really!!!

Just to confuse people this is Smiler but I've had to log on away from home using a different ID because I couldn’t remember my password.

Anyway, after further negotiations with the supplier they have agreed to credit me with £36.43 towards the replacement PSU of my choice. But I need to order it pretty sharpish. Looking at what they have in stock leads me to a decision between these 4:

Hiper 630W HPU-4M630-PE 85% Efficiency, w/8P PCI-E £55.23
(Tier 2 or 3 as under 650w?)

Thermaltake W0103 Toughpower 600Watt ATX £57.58
(Tier 2 or 3 as 600w seems to be the break point?)

Corsair HX520 520 Watt PSU £66.97
(Tier 2 but lower wattage?)

Thermaltake W0105RB Toughpower 700Watt ATX £67.56
(Tier 2)

So Zorg etc. speedy recommendations would be much appreciated!

Cheers.

 

[Zorg]

Best

Thermaltake W0105RB Toughpower 700Watt ATX £67.56
http://jonnyguru.com/review_details.php?id=17&page_num=1


Toss up. The Corsair has a single rail and is made by Seasonic, which I like, the tough power has more wattage.

Corsair HX520 520 Watt PSU £66.97
http://jonnyguru.com/review_details.php?id=28

Thermaltake W0103 Toughpower 600Watt ATX £57.58

IMO they are all good. For the money get the 700W Toughpower.