I have it running stable at 1.4825 or 1.485vcore I think, it is 1.38 in Everest and Speedfan so I dont really know what that means. I am only at 3.5 ghz
When I set it to 1.5v which I believe is the highest intel says you should ever go and try 3.6ghz it dies almost as soon as I start Prime95 smallFFT test, less that a minute in. BSOD in Vista, who would have thought.
I have a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme I just installed today with AS5 and one of the Antec 3 speed fans that came with the case set to medium and the temps get as high as 73 degrees for spikes! The highest core temperature I saw was 70.
I have an antec nine-hundred with 4 120mm fans in a line going in the back, on the heatsink, just after the heatsink and one in the front all facing the same direction. There is a lot of airflow through there, if I set the fans any higher it sounds like the think is going to leave the ground. As most probably know this case also has a 200mm fan blowing straight up.
I just installed the true today and at idle with stock mobo settings (Auto sets the vcore to high I believe) it was idling at high 30s/40 so it doesnt seem like the TRUE is doing its job.
Sorry if that sounds like a lot of random info but I wanted to be thorough.
How high can I set my voltage and how high can my temps safely be? If it doesnt crash it will be fine but may die prematurely right (2-3 years at least hopefully)
Sorry to keep adding, but I thought I should explain I was running the stock hsf at 3.0ghz and would only hit around 60 in stress testing, the highest I ever saw was 65. At 3.2 which is the first I tried with my new heatsink I was reaching those same temps. What a way to spend $70, 200mhz
Most likely the TRUE isn't seated properly or there's too much or too little thermal paste or you need to lap both the cpu and the TRUE. This is one of the reason why I recommend the Nirvana over the TRUE.
You can try lapping both the cpu and TRUE, there's a guide up on the top here about them.
I really dont want to do that to the CPU, I may do it to the heatsink if I can get up in time to get to a hardware store (workin 3rd). I am having a hard time finding fine grit sandpaper.
But we are only talkin a couple degree drop with lapping right? While it would help it seems like there is a bigger problem. I could use a 10 degree drop. I may have put to much AS5 on. I remember the first time I did it with my stock hsf it put it on really thin and it looked really really light grey, this time it was to much I think it was thick enough to appear dark. I still wasnt a huge amount though.
How can the TRUE be seated wrong? Can anyone explain this so I dont do it again?
Also, my voltages having to be that high are just a fact of life at this point arent they? I think one more tick up to 1.5125 or somethin around there would get me stable. If the temps are fine I will be ok with that voltage right?
Those temps seem about normal considering the amount of voltage you're running. Is the system not stable at all? Right now I'm at 3.54GHz at 1.4v (1.32v load in CPU-Z) with a TRUE and i'm at around 63C load.
Thats the way it goes some times. But when you hit that special voltage notch up... you'll note that you get the heat all at once. Just keep yer eyes on it, and all is well. And yes, though you set it to 1.5, its actual value is lower. Watch where VDroop puts your VCore, and adjust from there. My 780i has a HUGE Vdroop, and it bombs $hit out when maxed, so it appears that my VCore is high, but have things hit a full draining load, vcore goes right where I want it to. Just pay attention. HWMonitor is great for that, thanks to showing the current value, and then the max value, great for full screen tests, close it, open it again, then load yer game and play... when yer done, you can see where the max temps and power were for each area of its sensors!
I would stop and listen to yourself for a minute. You are at a Vcore that is very reasonable. You are at a OC that is stable that is VERY reasonable. If that 100Mhz (That's right only 100Mhz) causes as much as a 5 minute hassle leave it as is stick with 3.5Ghz. In reality, you wasting all this extra time/effort/stress over 100Mhz. I understand the 'want' to be like everyone else that gets 3.6, but you can't be perfect, but you can get pretty damn close. Remember you are OC a cpu that at stock runs 2.4Ghz, the fact alone it went over 3Ghz was a blessing. I personally would save the time/stress with keeping it at 3.5Ghz. But if you want to continue I guess I can make a recommendation. First try to figure out your V-drop when you CPU is idle in windows. Take you BIOS setting and subtract your CPU-Z read out from that E.G(my case) In BIOS 1.4125 CPU-Z 1.3825(1.4125-1.3825=0.03V=Vdrop. Now take your drop and add that to 1.5V (1.5V+0.03=1.53V) Now that end voltage result(1.53V) is the MAX you can set in BIOS and still be within the 1.5V limit that is recommended. But having a Q6600 with exactly 1.5V pumping into it is going to generate a LOT of heat, probably not suitable for air cooling. Now set it to that and see if you can get it stable, if you eliminated all other possible issues such as memory,heat , your cpu is just limited. Now I'm sure judging from what you have already posted that you might wrestle with this voltage for quite a while to find out in the end it's just not worth it. I actually went through with this myself and my E2180. But goodluck.