New to water cooling, am I missing anything?

Hello everyone!

So I've decided to take the plunge and dive into the world of water cooling. The following is my new system I was going to build. Please feel free to comment on if these components are all compatible with each other, or what I may want to use instead.

What I am really unsure about is if I have all the proper water cooling components for this particular setup?


Processor: Intel Core 2 Quad Processor Q9450 *Bought*
Motherboard: EVGA nForce 750i FTW SLI
Hard Drive: Raptor X 150GB 10,000RPM SATA-150 *Bought*
Ram: 2 x Mushkin 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM 1000
Video Card: Nvidia 8800GTS 512 MB or Nvidia 8800GTX or 9800 GTX (Worth the cost?)
Case: Cooler Master Stacker 830 *Bought*
Power Supply: Cooler Master Real Power Pro 1000W (Came with case)

Water Cooling

CPU Waterblock:
Dtek FuZion
CPU Waterblock Extras: Dtek Fuzion Nozzle Accelerator Kit
Pump: Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump
VGA Waterblock: Swiftech MCW60
VGA Extras: Swiftech MC14 BGA Memory Ramsinks
VGA Extras: Swiftech MC21 Mosfet Heatsinks
Tubing: 10 Feet x 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade (Will this fit 1/2" barbs?)
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO
Radiator: Swiftech MCR-220 "Quiet Power" Series or Swiftech MCR-320 "Quiet Power" Series
Fittings: 8 x DTek High Flow 1/4in BSPP thread 1/2" ID Hose Barb (Will this work with the blocks I selected?)
Hose Clamps: 14 x Herbie Clip® Nylon Hose Clamp Size F (Maximum Diameter: 0.67 inches)
Coolant: 2 x HydrX Extreme-Duty UV Coolant

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks! :wahoo:
13 answers Last reply
More about water cooling missing anything
  1. I'd stay away from the nVidia 7xx chipsets and stick with an Intel P35 chipset MB, like the very nice GA-P35-DS3x series.
    Also, don't forget that, depending on your case airflow, you may have to install small fans and/or additional waterblocks for the northbridge, southbridge, and PWM areas on the MB.
  2. Don't use the nylon clip style hose clamps. That pump puts out insane pressure and the nylon clamps don't hold very well. Get some of the metal screw-down hose clamps from your local autoparts store.

    your motherboard should come with a fan to clip on the north/southbridge heatsinks for a watercooling setup. Make sure you use it.

    I'd spend the extra $$$ and get a full coverage block for the gpu. I had problems fitting the ramsinks under the hose fittings/hose/clamps with the gpu only block. Ended up taking the dremel to the ramsinks and cutting off most of the fins.

    Yes your hose will fit. You might need to soak it in hot water to slip it over some of the fittings. But i'd go with the fatter walled hose. the 1/2"ID 3/4" OD. Less possibility for kinkage.

    The stacker 830 is a bitch if you're planning on going all internal with your wc setup. I hope you're really friendly with your dremel. I have a 120 rad bolted to the exhaust in the back and a 220 bolted to the bottom with a hole cut in the shape of the radiator.

    The nozzle accelerator kit isn't necessary. Unless it's free with the cpu block. Then knock yourself out.
  3. Here's a pic that might help. I dunno. I really just wanted to show off. Same case, same pump, similar gpu block. All internal setup. Temps are about 27c idle 32c load. The crappy 80mm fans are temporary...

    I found that a reservoir isn't necessary. Two of them broke on me. Likely due to the high pressure from the pump. A T-line is easier to bleed and fill.

  4. Wow thanks for the good info. I'll look into an Intel P35 chipset motherboard...

    I was hoping to try and go pure internal in my watercooling setup. Glad to see it can at least be done with my case. I'm fairly handy with a dremel, and always willing to properly design and execute a project. :D

  5. You need at least the 780i for that 9450, all the FSB you can get. The 790i is tops on ocing the 9450 right now, but insanely expensive ($349) and uses DDR3 too.

    Ditto on the nozzle accel, waste of time and effort. Worm style clamps are a must on 1/2" stuff.

    Mine is all internal in a P180 case with 2 8800 GTX's cooled as well. Full coverage is the only way to go.

    I had to use seperate 120 rads due to the chopped up compartments in the P-180. Gonna add a third to the top, as the Q is 12c hotter at 3.4 than my 6750 was at 3.6.

    As stated, a T line gets quiet faster, and less mess on drain.

    And remember, remove power from the MB to prime and leak test. We don't want to kill your shiny new Q.
  6. BTW you cant go wrong with that motherboard its not the old 750I that model is new and will overclock like mad imo its the best sli board out only thing its lacking is 3x pci but if you only want 2 than its a great boad.
  7. The first thing that anyone should do when first getting invovled in watercooling is determining why.


    Most of the reason to make the switch over to watercooling is going to concern your o'clocking approach as going from convection (air) cooling to watercooling is a sizable jump in investment. That being said, what is your approach to o'clocking? Do you plan to do any? If so, mildly or aggressive?

    If you are just going to mildly o'clock than you can save yourself some money by just investing in high quality convedtion cooling parts. High end air cooling components will do as well as any low-end watercooling parts.

    Now, if you've the mind to aggressively o'clock than will it be the CPU or GPU (or both)? Will you o'clock your ram? Do you plan on adjusting your voltages to higher settings? These would be reasons to get into watercooling.

    Now if you are going to aggressively o'clock than you should consider something else - how your components are going to affect each other. I mention this because your list includes a single rad. If you aggressively o'clock your CPU AND your GPU than imagine the flow. Heat from one of those components is goign to be carried to the other and, instead of having to JUST deal with its own source it will have to contend with the additional heat. The solution here would be to add a second rad OR just be mindful of how much you o'clock and how things affect each other.

    Also, if you do aggressively o'clock your GPU (and possibly ram) you might consider an upgrade of some form of HSF combo for the NB if you are using an Intel chipset. The Northbridge, typically, controls memory functions like – a memory controller (for Intel Chipsets), a level 2 cache communicator and bridges the gap between the CPU and Ram – it also handles functions between the CPU and the graphics processor on the PCI, AGP and PCIe slots. Since this particular part is always busy it can generate quite a lot of heat.

    I agree with APieceOfCheese concerning the hose wall. It would be much easier on you to use 1/2 ID (and either 3/4 OD or 11/16 OD) hose - just saves you the extra compication of having to soak the hose ends.

    As for the nozzle kit with the D-tek Fuzion - it is "suggested" that you have it IF you are goihng to use a quad core proc. The nozzle kit creates a high pressure stream within the cpu waterblock that is further subdivided to strike the various core areas.

    All of this, though, is just food for thought.....
  8. More great info!

    I was hoping to overclock the processor to 3.6 Ghz at least. (450 Mhz * 8). As for the GPU I was going to mild overclock, but will probably hold off until I can get a second radiator in my setup to dissipate all that extra heat.

    Ultimately I would love to setup a 2nd loop in the system for just two video cards in SLI.
  9. I noticed you listed UV reactive coolant yet no UV cold cathodes. Add a light or two. They're fun to stare at.
  10. Can]t comment on the mobo feedback. I'm sure it's all good.

    1/2" ID tubing is easier to to get over the barbs (especially for that pump), and the thicker walls won't kink as easily. However, 7/16" ID tubing just seems to take up less space inside. I have no real strong preference for one over the other.

    I've never had a problem with the nylon clamps. I've also used the worm clamps and zip ties. Whatever works for you.

    Definitely go with the 320 rad. You also need three medium speed (70-80 CFM) fans. Higher speed if you have a fan controller and can dial them back for lower noise when not under load. I'd favor 38mm depth fans.

    A res is not "necessary" but it is easier (quicker) to bleed than a T line. But once it's bled, there's no real advantage. I just like having one (I also have a T line for easier draining).
  11. So silly question... What is the best way to drain a water cooled system? (T-Line vs. Res setups).
  12. Ideally, I'd like to get two of those Danger Den fillports. Mount one on the top of the case for filling and one on the bottom of the case with a valve for draining. As of now i just pull the stopper on the t-line and tip the case on its side.
  13. Using 7/16" line will leave more space between the MCW60 and heatsinks. When I build systems, I use EnzoTech BMR-C1 Ramsinks , because they are a bit smaller, and along with the 7/16" line they fit every time with no modification. With these ramsinks you also have less worry about the glue tape not working properly.

    If you are going to purchase the 8800 GTX, which is a G80 core, you will need the MCW60-R , which has the adapter plate for the G80 core and comes in a blister pack.

    I also recommend the MCR-320 radiator over the 220. This will give you extra cooling capacity to expand later on, with very little price difference. As Phreejak stated, if you are going to overclock your GPU, I would recommend another radiator, the size of a MCR-220, as GPU's can often output more heat than a CPU.

    ...another vote for worm-drive clamps. You never can be too safe....
Ask a new question

Read More

Heatsinks Water Cooling Overclocking