how much shorter is the ultra 120 than the scythe infinity because the scythe wont fit in the stacker 832 without taking out the inside door and i just wanna know if the ultra 120 will fit without taking off the door
The 120 fits all modern MB's and it is a known fact that Thermalright makes the worlds best air coolers bar none.
See the Thermalright website for yor MB questions.
See my profile for the 7 systems on my home game LAN that are OC'd 50% on air and stock volts....4-6C over room air under load winter-summer air temps.
A complete well collected CASE/PSU/MB/RAM/HS/FANS will make any CPU give the same OC but with stock volts and the same class lowered temps over air as any non-chilled H2O cooler (in some cases lower) for said online reports for -your- CPU.
It is all about the compleat over all build.
With air cooling more fans are most often -not- better....correct airflow paterns are the key.
If you take a closer look at frostytech, you'll see that on the TRUE they used a slower fan than the TRU and the Xigmatek, which is partly why it's ranked 4th.
As for Anandtech, they too used a slower fan for the TRUE. I also find their results a bit optimistic. The Arctic cooler Freezer 7 Pro beats the TRUE on idle, which I'm sure wouldn't happen given that everything is perfect. They also used a Scythe medium fan on the TRUE.
While the Xigmatek 1284 is arguably as good as the TRUE, there's one major advantage the TRUE holds: lapping. You can not lap the Xigmatek because of it's direct heatsink technology, so for those hardcore OCers, the TRUE still beats out the Xigmatek.
Depending on the OP's needs, your advice very well may be a better choice than the TRUE.
My 7 systems on local game LAN (see my profile) are using the Thermalright SI-120 coolers and a 50% OC...if they had the Thermalright 120 Ultra's I would expect some sort of CPU temp drop but given what I already have,1/2 of 1C would be the best for me as I already have H2O temps for 1/8th of the average cost.
Anyhow as I have said it is about the -compleat system- and -correct airflow patterns- that keeps the CPU/System temps low.
The same goes with OC's and voltages.
I have no issue even with the same exact build parts reported online with OC except I bother to use PC Power & Cooling PSU's...and meet the same but -without- the voltage boost.
If you really want your "toy" to do it's best then you need to understand and use all the correct parts/information.
It does not matter what those people found.
The "test" they did is not valid in the way they did it and is in my mind nol and voided.
Look at my profile...-look- at my profile.
As I have said it is all about the -complete- system.
The whole world can not agree with me yet my work does what it does and is a fact.
The same concepts the system in my profile uses can be used with newer CPU/MB combo's with like results.
The hardest part is that CoolerMaster no longer makes the same case which was the best cooling ever.
The CMS TO-1 was/is the worlds best case ever with the optional Crossflow Fan.
I don't lap anything and to add to that I -only- use the "old" white Silicon Grease TIM on customer reinstalls!
Paying for over priced "crap" like AC5 or whatever is like flushing money down the crapper.
People should learn to correctly -clean- the CPU/HS and -correctly- learn how to apply TIM.
Yes I am on the old DFI site now called DIY.
I will not repeat how to clean/use TIM...take your own time to SEARCH my posts on TOM's or online on other sites.
I have been "online" befor what is now called the "internet" and just might know a few things that todays websites (like TOM's) try to to tell people/push products onto.