dkoerner7

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Ok, So I just bought a Rosewill RX950-D-B ATX12V v2.2 & EPS12V v2.91 950W Power Supply - Retail.

I built my PC, plugged it in and if tripped my GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter)! I returned the PSU, got a new one (same kind) and it did the same thing on 3 different circuits in my house. Has anyone ever had this happen before? My house is relatively new.

Thanks
 
tripping a GFI means there is a problem with the device normally. Tripping a breaker can mean defective equipment or over current.

Most houses in North America run on 15(1800 watts @ 120 volts) amp circuits. even if that psu is a pile of inefficient(65% @ full load would draw under 1300 watts) crap it should not trip your breaker.

Have you ever had this happen before? Hell a hair dryer can(not sure about new onces but we still have an old 1800watt that trips the breaker if almost anything is on with it...) take more then that....

First thing i suggest you do is try it at a friends place....and also give us your full system specs. I have yet to see a system take 950 watts...most take 200-500....

Also note rosewill psu's are not highly rates around here....
 

Kamrooz

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Not sure about the tripping, but I do recommend returning that PSU for a dif brand. You've supremely over payed for a tier 5 psu, worst you can get. What is your current rig anyways?

I'd recommend returning the PSU and picking up one of these instead, both Tier 1, fantastic quality. I've noticed a lot of people going way overboard on their PSU needs, probably the same case for you, but what is your rig just to be safe?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256022

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703009

Regarding the outlet, it is indeed odd if the house is relatively new. Pretty much all houses are rigged with a 15 or 20 amp outlet, so you take the amount of watts you are using and divide that by the volts (120v for the US) to see how many amps you are taking, if you multiply the volts against the amps, you get the maximum power of your outlet (keep in mind this does not factor in if other outlets are on the same breaker). Even if you had a 15 amp outlet, you'd have around 1800 watts at your disposable from a single outlet/breaker. So personally I think it's the psu, or you have some really shotty wiring or something.

Try to return the PSU for one of the ones mentioned, Rosewill is one of the worst PSU's you can buy, here's a list to show you the tier categories.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=108088

The ones I mentioned are Tier 1, best quality you can get, if you could tell me what parts are in your rig, It'd be easier to figure out what you need in terms of power, cause 950 watts is overkill for almost any rig unless you're talking about a 2-3 video card setup. If you do return it (which is HEAVILY suggested), you will end up getting a tier 1 psu for less, or the same price range as your current PSU.

Rosewill = garbage, sorry to see that you bought into it >_<. I always slap my forehead when I hear people have bought a rosewill PSU.
 

dkoerner7

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Q6600
BFG 8800 GT OC
MEM 2Gx2|GSK F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ R
MB GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3P REV 2.0 P35

Never had it happen with anything else in the past (hairdryer, etc). The house is not even 2 years old.

Then intention was to have enough power to potentially use dual cards in the future, hence the extra power. Obviously overkill, but I just wanted to make sure. It was a combo deal new egg had with the quad that I'm sure everyone had seen. It didn't seem to get bad reviews there but you never know I guess. I was hoping to stay around ~100 or so for the PSU.

Thanks for the help so far!
 

croc

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GFI is an acronym for ground fault interrupter... So there is a voltage / amperage differential between your PSU's negative AC terminal and its ground terminal. Possibly caused by insuffecient seperation / isolation of the AC input primary coils and the ground plane? That's just a guess, but would explain what's happening.

Rosewill are not known for having the best PSU's around. I'd return the PSU and look for a quality psu from the sticky in the PSU forum. And what the hell do you need a 950 watt PSU for, anyway? I'd look at the PCP&C 610 silencer, the ANTEC Neo HE series, or some of the Silverstones. I believe there is also a sticky for a PSU wattage calculator as well.
 

Kamrooz

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If you want to use dual cards, go with either of the two I've mentioned.

How much did you pay for the rosewill? it's 230 on newegg which is outrageous for such a low quality psu. the PC Power quad is truly a fantastic bargain, PC Power & Cooling is without doubt the most respected company of all. They are one of the (if not the) best PSU's you can buy. for 170, it's a steal, nab one.

what is your exact maximum budget?...if the Pc power is a capable purchase based on your budget, get it. The PSu is the most important component of your system, I've seen many complain when their low quality psu blows and takes their entire rig with it, which they could of avoided by just picking a quality PSU.

In your terms though, that 950 is overpriced, so you still put the money out for it...but just uninformed..

What's your maximum budget? If the Pw power is in your range, grab it, it can easily handle a 8800 GTX sli system.
 

rodney_ws

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I learned more from NukeMaster's reply than I have from probably the last 100 posts I've read. Thanks bro. I know all of that information is out there, but that's the first time I've been able to tie it all together (I just remodeled a cabin and the 15 amp breaker thing rang some bells as we re-did all of the electrical stuff here)
 

dkoerner7

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I bought a combo with the quad for 399$ So technically about 130$ since the quad is about 270$. I did a bit of research on power supplies but never found a good resource. I've heard the old "PSU is most important part" saying before. That link with the Tiers above is great, but what determines Tiers and where do you find out what Tier your PSU is? If I had known the Rosewill was Tier 5, I obviously would have avoided it. Too bad newegg is pushing that combo :(

I really don't have a spending max. I just want something that works, is future proofed and that I can plug a lamp in with :) Techinally I have another computer that I'd like to plug into the same circuit. Doesn't seem like too much to ask. I'll return the PSU after all the comments. I'll check out the ones above.

Thanks again

 

Kamrooz

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No problem, the ones I mentioned will handle the rig easily, as well as allowing upgrade room. Watts isn't everyrthing, amps supplied by the PSU on the rails is also a very important factor.

Regarding the tiers, they are basically dissected and tested. Testing aside, the quality of the internal components is also a very strong factors. That's how the tiers are divided up. Even if a tier 5 psu has reliable power output, the quality of the internal components can claim is as a tier 5, they have a lower life span as a result, and are more likely to die on you. When they die, they are capable of taking a lot of hardware with it.

If I was you, I'd just nab a 750 quad from Pc Power, it will handle everything flawlessly. If you are a little paranoids about having too little power, Nab that Silverstone Decathalon 850, both are tier 1, the DA is also modular to cut down on excess wiring causing airflow issues..

If you want a tier 1 psu in the same price range as the quad 750 with modular cables, they also make a 750DA as well.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256017&Tpk=da750

both 750 W psu's have 60 amps ont he 12 rail, they'll be able to handle a 8800 GTX setup. If you want even more room, you can nab the DA850 which has 70 amps on the 12 rail.
 

aj49

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Since your house is new, I have heard that computers & "new style" gfi's dont play together. Ask a real electrician wassup. Is this GFI whole house or in-line? If I remember the article right (haha) the newer style GFI's are way more sensitive than a few years ago & will cause this problem. If you can do it, just replace it with a regular duplex recept and get a strip or UPS. sorry but I cant find the link to the article but from what i remember, it is exactly what your problem is.
 
Ok first off based on your system specs and your desire for dual cards i would suggest something in the 600-650[35+ amps on the 12 volt rails is plenty](this is giving you lots of overhead and trying to put you in the sweet spot for max efficiency[Saves you power :)]) range.

As said above, yes Rosewill is not highly looked at due to some rather low quality parts used in some units. I can not comment on that psu, but i know for a fact your current system is still under 400 watts(more like 300-350 at the plug).

This said the PSU is defective or the board may have a defect. How do you feel about hot wiring a psu? on the main atx plug there is a GREEN wire with a black wire right next to it. If you connect those with a wire or paper clip the psu will start with no load(some psu's do not like to run with no load, if you have a few fans plug them in :)). DO NOT DO THIS WITH THE POWER ON!!! do it with the power unplugged and the switch off. then plug it in and flick the rear switch to on, it it trips it then the psu is toast, tell them you want some kind of refund, 2 bad psu's is a bad track record.

hpim1551ws8.gif


Good psu's IMO

PC Power & Cooling(I do not own them, but they are made to take a beating)
Seasonic(they are generally good and make all the following on this line, even some PCP&C are made my seasonic i think...some on correct me if this is wrong)/Antec NEO HE(some asus boards do not like this model)|TP Trio|TP Quad/Corsair HX series, ect
FSP(Fortron)/Sparkle/OCZ GameXtreme

@ nhobo - Good point, but it its a 10amp i would still take the psu back, Since the system should not be taking much over 400(450 is about the most i could see with a low efficiency power supply)

One more thought. What ever you get, if possible, get a 80+ certified psu as this will save you power and generate less heat.
 

altazi

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Why are you plugging your PC into a circuit protected by a GFCI breaker? These are used for bathroom & outside receptacles where there is a danger of a user being electrocuted due to wet locations.

The GFCI detects an imbalance in current flow between the AC hot and AC neutral lines. If you are being electrocuted by using an improperly-insulated power tool while standing in a puddle of water, there will be an imbalance in the current flow. The GFCI will detect this and shut off the circuit.

Altazi
 

Zorg

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I read this whole thread and I didn't see any mention of the true cause. The new houses come with Arc-fault circuit interrupters - AFCI. I think it's in the NEC now. The AFCIs are very sensitive and will cause false tripping. I saw a while back, I don't remember where, that someone had exactly the same problem that you have now. You might buy a UPS. I think that will solve your problem, but I don't know for sure.

Whatever you do get rid of that junk Rosewill PSU. If so many people are saying to do it, then you should listen. Additionally, the Silencer 750 may not trip the AFCI.

Edit: It looks like the large Rosewills are not as bad as the smaller ones, but I still don't like them. I would feel much safer with the Silencer 750
 

aj49

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Zorg, This is exactly what I was talking about. I believe a UPS will act like a buffer to stop the tripping but there is little need to have a GFI circuit as a good UPS will give safer/better results.
 
Arc-fault circuit interrupters - AFCI - Cool i could have fun with those in businesses :) wiggle a switch in the middle(i am sure you have heard the arcing this can cause) off goes there power on that circuit(since it would be extended and detected as a bad thing....and it is) ....mwaahaaahaaahaaaa.

To be honest i have never even herd of that in the code....
 

Zorg

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I looked at the Wiki page that is linked in my post. The NEC requirements are in there. It has been code since 1999 in the US and 2002 in Canada.
 

Zorg

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The problem isn't GFCI it's AFCI. See the Wiki link above.
 

sailer

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All of this discussion reminds me of some of the power problems I had at my house. I rewired the whole house with 20 amp breakers, put a UPS between the wall and the computer and had all my electrical problems solved. No problems with the GFIs or anything now.

As to the PSU, dump the Rosewill. Seasonic, PC P&C, Corsair HX are all good. Will add to that the Thermaltake Toughpower series over 600wt size. I've been very pleased with both the Toughpower 700wt and 850 wt models that I have had. Jonnyguru mentioned a buzz with a 700wt, but I have mine mounted with plastic washers and have no buzz from it. Either that, or my old man ears just don't detect it.
 

was not calling you a lier or anything....i am saying i have never heard of it.....defiantly something to look into....
 

Zorg

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I didn't think you were calling me a liar, I was just directing you to the information.
 

dkoerner7

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I am just worried that because of the potential ARC GFI, even if I got a better PSU, I might still trip the GFI. Obviously a lower wattage would help, but would it be enough?

As a follow up, if I unplug everything else on the circuit, the computer boots fine. I can even add the other computer after that. There is just a major initial surge when I turn the computer on and runs all the fans when I initially turn the computer on. Anyone know of a way to limit that surge? I'll return the PSU based on the recommendations above regardless.

Incidentally, the GFI is on the only outlet in my basement which is unfinished. It's not like I need my quad in the tub :) There are actually GFI outlets on most of the circuits in my house for safety purposes. It's probably not a factor for most people. I actually talked to an electrician friend as well and he mentioned replacing the GFI with a normal outlet. That's a catch 22 though because I eventually want the protection of the GFI eventually.

I hope this is helpful to some people in the future. I know it's getting off on an electrical tangent, but I hope this helps people in the future to make a decision. Thanks again for all the help.
 

sailer

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I think the using a UPS would hold the start-up surge from hitting the house circuits. Don't know the specific electrical codes in your area, but where I am, there has to be a GFI for every circuit breaker in the box. If ever there was an electrical failure that caused a fire and no GFI was in the circuit, the insurance company would not cover the loss.

With your info that when you run the computer and nothing else on the circuit, it boots up fine, that gives a hint that something is not right in the house wiring, as even a 15 amp circuit should be able to support more than the computer. One other thing that can be done is to wire a specific 20 amp circuit for the computer. Other than that, get a UPS to balance the power.