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Water Cool Leak!!




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 Thread : Water Cool Leak!!
 
You Cant Stop The Revolution!
Profile: newbie
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Hey Guys

I have a leak in my Zalman zmWb3 Gold water block..its leaking from the...the nozzle where it screws into the actual water block..There the black plastic ones versus the metal nut ones.. This is the second time' any ideas on how to stop it from leaking.. The Pump is an External Pump that sits in the Resivor its self..and pumps at 130GHP ....I also have this cooling my 8800GTS..with no problems on that block just the zalman'


Right now im back to the Intel Heat Sink..running at 48 -44 on all four cores to Hot seems about right to me?

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Master-de-bater
Profile: Eternal Poster
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That's partly why I stick with air-cooling. But that aside, you're suppose to test the water cooler without the components first to check for leaks. You know, run it for a day or so to make sure it isn't leaking.

I suppose you could use those white, water-proof seal tapes along with duct tape to seal it.


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"Nvidia, the Way It's Meant to be PAID Played! - Corrado
*Lesbian Lover Club* - founder Assman
You Cant Stop The Revolution!
Profile: newbie
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I did actually the system been running for about 3 months when this leak appeard today same spot the last time it leakd... only reason i cheakd is becuase i smelld coolant lol

Profile: old hand
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Have you checked to see if it's the nylon barbs that have the crack, or if the block has cracks or wear around the barb openings? If it is the latter, bad news. Crack in block = bad. Perhaps you have a bad o-ring in there?

Nylon barbs are supposed to be better at sealing the threads as opposed to brass barbs, but can also crack at their seams, if they have them. This is to eliminate the need for teflon tape, but also increases the possiblity cracking will occur. Plastic barbs are OK, but I stay away from the black plastic ones...they are usually junky. I head to the hardware store and pick up the nylon plumbing ones.


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The Pastafarian belief of heaven stresses that it contains beer volcanoes and a stripper factory. Hell is oddly similar, except that the beer is stale, and the strippers have VD
Profile: member
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Stripped threads maybe? Could try new barbs to see if that works,but if its a cracked block than its fire in the garbage and grab another one.

Profile: member
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ok here we go-
first drain the system and remove the block. On a clean work surface dismantle it and get a nagnifying glas and inspect all the parts for crack or other issues, inspect the orings for flats and twists. Replace and bad parts and reassemble and move on. If block is cracked get a new one, attempting to patch cracks in any of the parts will be short term and will leak again. And just in case make dam sure you are using DI water....it is not conductive...ensuring no sparkysparky if you get more leaks.....amd also....spend a few more bucks as you replace parts and get the stainless stuff.....it is significantly better.

good luck


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QX6700- asusP5BE- corsair xms2-4G- EVGA 8800GTS 640- audigy SE- zboard merc- samsung 931c syncmaster-
Profile: nimble knuckle
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Whenever you have to use screw-in fittings for anything in a cooling loop it is advisable to use either teflon tape or "plumbers goop" around the threads. Each product creates a seal as you "screw in" the fitting, thereby compensating for any potential leak. However, I recommend using both (which is what I do on all my fittings) by taping the teflon tape around the threads and then wiping a thin film of "plumbers goop" over the taped area. Plumbers goop will help create a seal around the threads (helping the teflon tape) and it will form a seal at the base of the fitting as well. You can find teflon tape or plumbers goop at any hardware store like Home Depot or Lowes. While plumbers goop will aid in sealing any gaps in the threads it only forms a rubbery consistency when dried so you needn't worry about any permanent bonding.


Message edited by phreejak on 06-14-2008 at 12:49:38 AM

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Swiftech Mcres-Micro Reservoir, MCP655 Pump, D-tek Fuzion CPU Waterblock w/nozzle kit, Thermaltake Toughpower 1200, Swiftech Stealth GPU Waterblock, 2 external dual 120mm rads (each with four 120mm fans in "push-pull" )

 

You Cant Stop The Revolution!
Profile: newbie
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Thanks Guys ill try te plumber Goop and Teflon tape..and c if that does the trick

U win some, the rest u smoke
Profile: old hand
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My water sys has leaked HEAPS of times in the beginning.

For your situation: plumbers tape around the thread SHOULD cure it. If not maybe some plumbers pvc glue as a more permanent measure.

Other tips:

1: Better hose. Tygon is the BEST stuff around. Also use metal hose clamps, not too tight tho.
2: Ditch anything with the name Zalman on it. Im pretty sure they use alu stuff. Use an ALL COPPER system. Alu and copper react.
3: Use anti corrosive/conductive fluid/additives. Duh.


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Q6600 B3 3.0Ghz @ 1.125v load
4850
P5B-D
8Gb 800mhz
Profile: addict
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Get rid of those plastic and nylon fittings, stick with metal fittings with compression locks. Stay away from plumbers goop, you don't want it getting into the cooling system stick with teflon tape.

Profile: addict
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call a plumber, have him fix the leak. or visit your closest home depot store for help.


Message edited by godless on 06-14-2008 at 03:51:48 AM

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Phenom 9500 @2.5ghz|MSI K9A2 Platinum|500Gb,750Gb Seagate 7200.11|2Gb OCZ Ram|Diamond HD3870 @850Mhz|CM 690|OCZ 700Watt
Profile: member
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i am a fan of plumbers tape. use it on the threads, it works wonders.



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