Powercolor x1950 Pro problems

So here's the deal. I originally bought a Powercolor 512 x1950 pro from newegg a few weeks ago. This is the card that has the AC silent cooler on it that replaces the stock x1950 heatsink (Thing is HUGE). Anywho, when I recieved the first card, it would randomly just blackscreen out and I'd have to restart my computer. That said, I RMA'ed that card. Now, I just recieved the new one last week and everything seemed fine but now when I'm playing TF2 or WoW or any other fairly graphic heavy game, the game locks up and my screen blacks out and the VPU does it's recovery. I downloaded ATI tool and other programs to control the fan speed and watch the temperatures under full load. When playing these games it seems to hardlock anywhere between 50C and 55C, so I'm confused whether or not overheating seems to be the issue? When I bump the fan speed up to 100% it still seems to do it.

So, I decided to do some research into the problem. It seems other people have the same problem but none seem to match mine exactly. Currently, I'm running a 600watt power supply that has 20 amps on one 12v rail and 18 amps on the other 12v rail for a total of 38 amps on the 12v rail. Knowing how power hungry the x1950 pro is, I'm fairly sure that my power supply is ample to power the card. When running ATI tools 3d image it seems to do the same thing and lock up anywhere between 50C and 55C. I see no artifacts when running that part, no matter how long I let it look for them. Furthermore, even if I downclock the card it seems to do the same thing. Originally the Powercolor version comes clocked at 600 core and 648 on the memory (1300 total since it's running GDDR3). If I downclock the core to about 500 and the memory to about 550 or equivalent it seems to do the same thing.

All this said, when I run Final Fantasy Online I seem to have no issues even after hours and hours of gameplay. I'm completely at a loss for what the problem might be.

My PC specs are as follows:
Mobo - ASUS P5VD2-VM SE LGA 775 VIA P4M900 Micro ATX
Processor - 3.0 P4 Cedar Mill
Heat Sink - ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler (Keeps my cpu at a cool 26C ^_^)
Memory - Patriot 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300)
Power Supply - 600 Watt Apevia
Vid card - Powercolor 512mb x1950 pro (if you haven't read above)

Now, thinking the motherboard may be overheating I decided to order a new one (also because I know I cheaped out a bit on the motherboard and I decided to get a better one). So I've got the ASUS P5K-E/WIFI-AP LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX on the way!

Here's the funny thing, I took the video card out to test it on another friends PC and everything worked FINE! We ran it hard for about 2-3 hours straight and there were no problems. His power supply only has 14 amps on the 12v rail and he's running an MSI motherboard.

Sorry for the long post, but if anyone has any answers or even clues as to what the hell is going on with my system it would be much obliged. I know how reliable tom's hardware is, and that's why I came here ^_^

- Raenen
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More about powercolor x1950 problems
  1. Download the utility Cpu-z http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

    Check if your gpu slot is running at 16x or 8x
    Check your bios to make sure pci-express is your primary graphics
    Fine tune settings in bios.
  2. After using CPU-z as I thought, my board is currently running at 16x. When I went into bios, PCI-E was my primary graphics, but I was unable to turn the slot down from 16x to 8x or anything else. Seems it defaults at 16x and there isn't a way for me to change it in bios.

    Wonder if it'll have these same problems when I get my new motherboard?
  3. Try trying an older version driver. I have seen numerous posts on various sites of older games not liking newer ATI drivers. I had similar trouble myself with an old 9600 card and the latest ATI driver. I reverted back to the old driver and all was well.

    Additionally, you do not necessarily have 38 amps on the 12v rail. The way to calculate is to take the total wattage the PSU allocates to the 12v rail, and divide that by 12. The remainder is your actual 12v wattage. The label on the side should break the wattage down this way.

    Additionally, if you have an older or cheaper quality PSU(like Apevia), your PSU may not actually be supplying the true number.
  4. Tlmck,

    I already tried the Omega drivers, and additionally tried older Catalyst drivers direct from ATI all to no avail. Further, when checking the specs on my PS it seems there are 20amps on one 12v rail and 18amps on the other 12v rail. I would agree that Apevia, being a cheaper quality, may not necessarily supply the true number but as I already posted when I put the card in a friends PC with his PS only consisting of 14amps on the 12v rail everything seems to work flawlessly. That's my dilemma =/
  5. The linked bandwith and provided bandwith are the same?

    Update your bios if you have not already done so.
  6. I'd update the bios if I wasn't going to receive my new motherboard this thursday. I'll let you know how it goes once the new board is installed with the card. I was just curious if anyone had any idea that were motherboard related?
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